Search results

Remember, If the LCD has 768 pixels vertically, it's not a 720p-native panel, and it will need scaling. We are talking about 720 to 768 and 720 to 1080 here. The latter should actually have less artifact, due to a simpler 2:3 pixel scaling.

Read the first post again. It's about the 2405 having few ms picture delay comparing to the other, not ghosting. He did say that the 2405 has less bluring/ghosting.

I have heard this a lot, but I think it's just a common misconception. I mean, just look at the picture. The RAM is still next to the CPU.

I agree with other things you said except this. Tearing can definitely happen when the frame rate is lower than the refresh rate. When frame rate is 35fps, the card is not throwing out 35fps to the monitor - it's still throwing out at whatever the refresh rate it's running at. Here is how...

First, learn what screen door effect is. http://www.hifi-writer.com/he/video/screendoor.htm

LCD response time and refresh rate are apples and oranges. It takes LCD with 8 ms response time full 8/1000th second to gradualy change from black to white to black again. It does not mean it can blink 125 times a second. Faster response time is always better even at low refresh rate because the...

Same thing. Only the shape of the plugs are different.

There are two different things - refresh rates monitor displays and refresh rates monitor can accept. Some digital monitors have one native refresh rate, usually 60 Hz. They have frame buffer that will convert any incoming signal to the displays native refresh rate – the excess frames will be...

Most PC's LCD Monitors will not downscale the resolution. They will only upscale. Some monitors do scaling better than others, but the best upscaling still makes things blurry.

To put more confusion to the discussion, some LCD's have internal frame buffer/processor that will convert any refresh rate to a display-native refresh rate and feed its panel at that single refresh rate (most likely 60hz) regardless of the video card's output refresh rate. Meaning you can...

Even at the refresh rate of 60 Hz, it does not mean 16ms will give perfect result. Response time of 16ms does not mean the pixels will change instantly in 16ms after they gets the next refresh. In fact, it takes full 16ms to gradually change from one color to another, meaning your eyes will...

Nope, your cable is fine. You just need to output the correct resolution/timing to match the one that your TV likes. Basically, you want the TV to display pixels at 1:1. PowerStrip is a program that can help you do just that. Its forum also has many HDTV settings that you might find helpful.

The HDTV - custom resolution/timing support on the nVidia driver is still very buggy. Sometimes it actually works until you reboot. Anyways, it's not the issue with HDMI; DVI will give you the same headache. Thanks god we have PowerStrip.

For nForce drivers, install the new one on top of the old one seems to be the better way to go. Also, using driver cleaner is completely unnecessary. It may be useful when you change hardware, or perhaps uninstall some buggy driver versions without decent uninstallers. The latest Forceware...

I read that there is no demand for higher-res 19-inch. The market is completely satisfied with 1280x1024 19-inch. That's not my opinion. It's manufacturers's. Want 1600x1200? Buy 20-inch.

Just to tell you that if you upgrade the BIOS to 3.5 you might need a Windows fresh install also. From my experience, the new RAID BIOS's do not get along with the old drivers.

Every benchmark says otherwise.

Sorry, wrong model link. Should be this one. http://creative.com/products/product.asp?category=4&subcategory=25&product=439 Review http://www.gamepro.com/computer/pc/hardware/reviews/3850.shtml

Actually, the Audigy 2 ZS can output uncompressed digital surround, but it needs a propritary connection and a speaker system that supports it. The propritary connection is actually a 3 pairs of S/PDIF, and it's far superior to DDL. Too bad I only know a couple of speaker systems that actually...

If you play games, use analog cables. BTW, Z-5500 does have S/PDIF. Both optical and coaxial are S/PDIF.

The board he mentioned is PCI-E socket 754.

I think perhaps no one mentioned this because everyone expects the onboard sound to be crap. By the way, I have heard a lot of people saying that onboard sounds "in general" suck. Anyways, it's possible that my board in particular is badly shielded. YMMV.

As far as I know, no one has complained about not being able to use X2 and SLI on the board as of now. So I guess we should stop making theories about what we don't really know.

Forgot to mention another thing - the onboard sound really sucks. It's so noisy. You can hear the harddisk activities everytime it's working,

Because it's an expensive board based on an obsolete chipset and socket, I guess. I have one of them. It's a very nice board indeed, but the OTES cooling is overkill. The NB fan is really noisy. I have to oil it every month or so. Other than that it's very nice, but I suggest you to get a...

The non-SLI board only have two capacitors near the 16x PCI-E slot. It's the third capacitor on the SLI board that causes the problem. It will fit the non-SLI board just fine without any adjustment.

Yeah, I know it's faster, but how much?

Has anyone tested both Venice and San Diego running at the same speed? What's the result? I wonder how would the extra 512K cache affect the performance when the clock speed is equal.

Tell us exactly what you did.

It should be in English. That BIOS has just released a couple of days ago, and the Korean site happen to be the first to upload the BIOS. It should be available on the global site soon, but it will be the same BIOS anyways.

What's your MOBO? Anyways, just divide that DDR-rated speed by two and you will have the RAM frequency.

I believe you have a BIOS bug. That's why I recommend you trying the new BIOS 3.5.

You will not see any divider option. You will only see the options for RAM speed. Something like this. 200 180 166 150 140 133 Now you have to culculate the ratio from that. For example, 200 = 200:200 = 1:1 166 = 166:200 = 5:6

If you are overcloking, the 166 Mhz will scale up with the overclocked HTT.

I think that link you posted explains it best. You would be correct if you meant to say 166 instead of 266, and you are not overclocking.

Try the latest BIOS 3.5. http://www.msi-korea.co.kr/program/support/bios/bios_detail.php?serials=90&uid=K8N%20SLI%20%C7%C3%B7%A1%C6%BC%B3%D1&part=1

HTT is a base clock for everything in the system. It means nothing by itself alone though. CPU speed is HTTxCPU multiplier. HTT speed is HTT base clock x HTT multiplier RAM speed is CPU full speed/RAM divider - the divider value is chosen automatically from HTT * RAM/HTT ratio setting.

I has just installed it over my old driver wihout uninstalling anything. Works fine so far..

You see that PAUSE button on your keyboard? Press it when the screen you want to read shows up.

Try the new official driver 3.5. If you can't find it at the US site, get it here. http://www.msi-korea.co.kr/program/support/bios/bios_detail.php?serials=90&uid=K8N%20SLI%20%C7%C3%B7%A1%C6%BC%B3%D1&part=1