I thought about the same thing, to make a durable ad portable system.
My one shared idea is to keep the system SEALED from the outside - It's easy to build the system such that all ports are accessible at the top surface and ventlation is sufficient, once the case is open. Breaking the seal and...
Howdy, folks of the [H]!
Customer stuck me with an ultimatum - They had a problem with their original Godlike board, and we sent it back RMA. They were inexplicably unhappy with the process, and demanded we order a *new* motherboard, at our cost, or they would return the ENTIRE FUCKING SYSTEM...
Why not just have a custom CNC milled replacement slot cover - 3 slots wide, 3 ports on each slot, with a single fold for mounting just as those single-slot covers do?
I could let my Atom SBC go for that price. It needs a heatsink - I can't sell the proto case it's in, but I can throw in the Molex power adapter.
MIO-2261
Like new, in OEM clamshell.
SN970 / EN970 would be my recommendation - Save some money. You don't seem to require as much performance as those VERY expensive units deliver.
But, with that budget, save up for the Zotac 10-series, being released soon.
ZOTAC's new Mini PC feature GeForce GTX 10 series GPUs
Actually, just flinging kevlar (or even biodegradable) string at them will take them down. I don't see why people need complex solutions when simple ones will suffice.
Track Drew That's with the battery pack, which is ~12v 12A capable for some number of hours - It's a beefy pack with a beefy charger. But I don't disagree - I'm eyeballing the $500 price point for the unit without the battery.
I'm not affiliated with or selling this KS, but I might support it.
Might be VERY fun as a chiller, these micro rotary units are very effective - I don't know what model it's using, but it does say it's a scroll compressor with R134a and 150W rated. It also runs on 12V.
No prob, I'll likely post about it :) I have an aluminum waterblock from an MXM rig, I have been considering going that direction as well. Just for fun :)
I think (but have not measured) the processor heatsink mount is also standard square for the socket... I could almost go with one BIG fan...
I only purchased my SN970 for it's fully socketed build - I've swapped out the i5-6400T for an i7-6700T, swapped out the memory for 8GB of PC3L-2133 and slapped some AS5 on the 970m (GTX960 lol) , but I may upgrade it further if I can get my hands on a 980M (not N 980) or an N 1070, sometime...
It's a dual 40mm (an 80mm radiator is a completely different thing... Poor naming conventions!) and they are actually great - The noise is the problem, and without a proper res, going warmer than normal (high of 60*C) causes some expansion of the working fluid.
i7-2920XM processor, not overclocked (stupid industrial embedded board)
8GB Kingston DDR3-1600
EVGA 750TI OC
PicoPSU 120W with a pair of RAM heatsinks on the backside
Dual 40MM Rad with dual 40MM server-grade fans (and yes, in synthetics they wake the dead. Idle it's quiet enough, gaming...
Check out MiniRA (you'll have to find it in a torrent), it's a full portable installer for RA with all packs, minus the cutscenes, and is only a few MB.
I signed up for one.
I've got 1 successful CF under my belt (IR Blue Thermal Imager), but 2 unsuccessful ones - One underdelivered (Powerup 3.0 RC Paper Airplane), and one vaporware (Robot Dragonfly).
I've fixed dead pixel on laptop displays with massage - IMHO I believe it was because laptop displays are much thinner than desktop displays, and of course phones have protective glass over the front.
It's far from 100% effective, but I'll always give it a shot.
Pay a professional to do it - A capable "mom and pop" shop should be able to fix it for less than $100. Don't attempt it yourself if you want your data back - It's do or do not, trying and failing can make it much worse.
Lack of a res in a DIY AIO system is a problem because, as the system heats up, the working fluid wants to expand - Less than perfect seals and joints will weep; this cycle can deplete enough of the working fluid to cause failure.
Also, the radiator introduces more thermal mass to the cooler.
For 4 DIMMs, more board options, better cooling / layout, more socket options (How many X99 ITX are there?) and even SFF (2-slot, 2 cards) SLI (which isn't possible on most ITX boards).
jjsyht - That would require a totally different case from this concept / design, but would be really nice. I'm a huge fan of ITX and single, normal length GPU.
This existing design, although larger than your ITX idea, can still fit an ITX board with any length GPU.
Love it!
Unsolicited feedback:
You may have even saved a bit more space putting the PSU flat above the PCIe slots, and lowering the height of the case. Would also lead to shorter runs for the ATX cable.
Does it also need all those fans in the front? May have been good space for a dual/triple...
I've got it! Install on a IDE/SATA industrial SSD, with the SLOWEST throughput available - I think one can get them on Ebay with something like 10MB/s throughput. It'd take hours just to transfer the 15-20GB Win10 requires, if they short-cut the process and installed on a faster drive to clone...
I'd love to see 1/2 length PICMIG 1.3 platform take off for SFF units. It's cheap, and modular AF!
This is a carrier board with (essentially) PCIe slots as a riser, with the "motherboard" as a single board, and the riser supporting a number of PCIe slots. Could also interface with m.2 / mPCIe /...
If you get stuck, PM me for a DIY 300W job which will certainly fit in a single 5.25", with low airflow req and very reasonable pricing (eBay part, I'm not selling anything).
Okay, that's certainly easy enough for a external/internal GPU power brick. I had purchased on a while back to power a SFF PC (instead of a 12v external brick) and I found some better options. Why not grab a new PSU? 800W name-brand can be had pretty cheaply.