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Oh god I think the problem is fixed! I overlooked something in the Nvidia slider settings. For some reason I had selected "Blue" in the Color Channel drop down menu, and when I clicked through the different options (blue, red, green, all channels) some (or one) of them has the gamma turned up. 😅...

Hey thanks for the answer, it's highly appreciated! I tried "dispwin -c", and absolutely nothing happened :/ It's very very strange, because I have not done any tinkering with any program other than argyllcms, dispwin, dispcal. Anyway thanks for the suggestion :)

TLDR: Is it possible that some custom Lut is loaded on startup even though I have not set it to do so? Decided to try it again after just using the gamma slider for a year 😅 And for some magical reason, I got it working! No idea what I did different this time though, unfortunately. But now I...

After following the "disable secure boot" guide to see if that helps, I get "The folder you specified doesn't contain a compatible software driver for your device. If the folder contains a driver, make sure it is designed to work with Windows for x64-based systems." Which is weird, because I...

If I uninstall the drivers of this HID (which I think is the i1d3), the same drivers automatically gets installed next time I plug it in. And if I try to update the driver manually Windows says that Windows has determined that the best driver sfor this device is already installed.

Ok so I spoke too early as always. I was able to distinguish the i1d3 from the other HID elements by looking under the "Events" tab and see which matched the timestamp of when I connected it. I am still, however, at a total loss of what I'm doing wrong. The guide says that the id31 don't need...

Yeah I think I have definitively messed something up when installing the drivers. Following the guide in your link, I can't seem to find the i1d3 in Device Manager, which is sort of strange, because I think I remember seeing it there before. Anyway, the only thing in the list that change when I...

simply "dispcal -v 3 -R"? Nothing more? Seems like absolutely nothing is happening. No message, no errors, no LEDs, no nothing.

The process completes in about 5 seconds (more or less). There are a couple of white LED flashes from the i1d3, but that's it. And there is no message at all :/

Just for reference: Upper row: three HCFR Gray Scale Measures with raw gamma. Lower row: three HCFR Gray Scale Measures with nvidia slider to my preference.

So it's: dispcal -m -qm -J -F -G2.4 -f0 mylutname and then: dispwin mylutname.cal I still get the "Dispwin Error: Can't open file 'mylutname.cal" And the first process still completes in a matter of seconds.

Ohhh! Thank you! :) And pardon me for asking questions left and right without reading through the thread myself first. Bad old habit of mine. I noticed your comment to one of the other people here about black levels being 0.1, and could be lower. I see now that my black levels are actually 0.000...

I did the dispcal -m -qm -J -F -v3 -g2.4 -f1 -k0 -A16 mylutname command, but the process only took a couple of seconds, which leads me to think that I have done something wrong. Since you say that it should take some time, maybe an hour or two. When I then did dispwin mylutname.cal I get the...

When creating a new HCFR session, I didn't select my meter in the drop down menu. I selected simulated sensor... That was my problem all along...

I just launched a HCFR session like in the WPB guide, but with my windows 10 computer (which is the GDM-FW900 computer). Just to see if it *seems* like HCFR communicating with meter. And it does! It seems like it does! So there has to something I have overlooked otherwise!

I still get different numbers everytime I do the Gray Scale Measurement in HCFR, even with the Calibrate Colorchecker (i1d3) (n) There has to be something I have overlooked The display has warmed up - check. The meter is a consistent placement - check (I haven't touched it since I did the WPB...

Unrelated to WPB, but related to winDAS with GDM-FW: Geometry: A couple of times now I have let it warm up with white image couple hours, then saved data, then loaded. And repeat. I want to try to get a decent geometry and want to iron out the possibilities of display not being warmed up before...

About that.. is the "best way" to warm up the monitor by having the white image on fullscreen? I used to have a video rolling on fullscreen until I read this guide. Now it seems it obvious that a white image on fullscreen is the proper way to warm it up. But this is not risking the "burn in"...

I bought the Colorchecker to see what it does to the Gray Scale reading (and of course to do the WPB with it). Is there a particular way you position this (i1d3) on the screen? :) I reckon you would try to get the sensor on top of the black square on the DTP-94_center image. But is there...

Okay so I did again and now it seems I get different numbers everytime

I set the Nvidia gamma slider back to 0, and redid the gray scale, just to see if something interesting happened. And it did :p For some reason, I got different readings now. The first one. The numbers are still a bit spread out (two red numbers, highest of them 5.2, and one yellow), but...

Hmm I noticed now that you say in the guide that: "You can even re-measure your grayscale in HCFR to see how the gamma changed as a result." And I get the exact same readings even though I have the Nvidia gamma slider way up, so I think there's definitively something weird about the Argyll...

Ofc :) I'm not there yet! I'm at the step right after finished WPB. At the first gray scale measure without any Argyll LUT settings

The readings though... are the same :/ very strange!

Okay I got it :p I just searched for restart in Settings. And in the first result "Change advanced startup option" you can click on "Restart now" where it says Advanced startup! After that point, I could follow Argyll's own guide without any differences :)

Right! I overlooked something in the link you gave me. I didn't realize the thread continued. So Graeme says you absolutely need to install the drivers and points to the Argyll installation guide. So I guess I just need to follow that :) If I only could manage to do that haha :p It says...

Thanks! :) So I see someone else had this problem back in 2017 with no apparent solution. Strange :/ Anyway... I followed the guide despite the drivers not installed (on the Argyll site it says you don't actually need USB driver for some devices, so I'd thought I just check just in case). And...

I'm done with the WPB (and the difference from before is !WILD! =D) - but... I'm stuck on trying to install Argyll drivers on Windows 10 to fine tune LUT. If I go to Device Manager and select the DTP94, and update drivers and browse for driver and select "Argyll_V2.3.1\usb" I get Windows found...

Perhaps it's even possible to use the new ColorChecker, without ColorChecker's software at all?

Right right. I think that's the situation. And if it is, the ColorChecker would be a better choice since it's newer and more readily available from resellers. Whether to go for pro, non-pro or plus though... that's a different question. It's ofc tempting to go for the Plus with 2000 nits, but I...

Hah... I see now that is not case :p It seems to me... from the comment you linked to, that the difference between Pro and non-Pro is the 5x speed. But not between X-rite and ColorChecker?

Ohh right, the Argyll program is specifically made for the xrite version! I see. Oy, thank you very much for all these links, I'll be sure to check them all out! Right right, I see :) I will definitively do the White Point Balance with the DTP-94 to start with. But if that works out all right...

Right. When searching for i1d3 or idisplay pro, I only get one on Amazon for 500$. I think it's discontinued and replaced by "colorchecker" series. Of which the Pro is on Amazon for 279$ and colorchecker display "regular" for 169$. I would suppose both of these would be a wiser purchase than...

Thank you!! :) Link worked perfectly! I bought an old MonacoOptix DTP-94 at ebay, and I can't get it soon enough to start the process! =D ..I wonder though.. could you theoretically do the winDAS White Point Adjustment without colorimeter? Cheers!

...and another one :p It seems the link to test patterns and pdf of the guide is not loading for me :/

One more question: I see that there are some slight differences in IrfanView between win7 and win10, now while I am setting it up. In win10 I have a checkbox for "Vertical center" which is checked by default - I suppose this should stay checked? Even though win7 doesn't seem to have this option.

Hey, spacediver :) Super cool guide, thanks for writing this! I just wonder if you have any experience/knowledge with/about the new ColorChecker series from calibrite? It seems that is the continuation of the iDisplayPro that has been discontinued. Cheers! :)