New PC Build (w/PICS) [CONTINUED FROM OLD THREAD]

Status
Not open for further replies.
A

Artluo100

Limp Gawd
Joined
Feb 16, 2005
Messages
451
Sure no prob, BlindedByScience.

Anyway look what came in the mail today??

My Coolermaster Praetorian
IMG_5362.jpg


IMG_5361.jpg


IMG_5360.jpg



My Logitech G7
IMG_5368.jpg


IMG_5363.jpg


My FUNC 1030 Mousepad for my G7
IMG_5371.jpg

IMG_5367.jpg


The Arctic Silver Compound
IMG_5375.jpg


Blank DVD's
IMG_5369.jpg


This is what happens when you choose to ship with UPS :mad:
IMG_5372.jpg


Luckily I had a bunch of these laying around, ready to be thrown out so I put one of them to use
IMG_5370.jpg

Looks brand new :D


So now I'm waiting for the rest of my system tommorow. So stay tuned.





:)
 
If you want to buy from Zipzoomfly, they usually have free 2-day shipping on everything and unless you live in-state (I believe it's California or Georgia) it's tax-free as well. That could save you $150-$200 easily. Also, if you plan to game, you'll need a more powerful video card. There is no way a 6800GS could keep up with today's games on a 2005FPW.
 
I'd definitely recommend using ZipZoomFly instead.

1. Pick up the DFI NF4 Ultra Infinity instead of the Ultra-D. Same board, without the useless UV shit. Save $40.

2. You don't NEED a 550w PSU. Pick up a Truepower 430 or a Smartpower 500 (Modular!) for around $65. Save $20.

3. The AC Freezer comes with MX1 paste pre-installed. The performance difference between it and AS5 is neglible. Save $5.

4. Pick up a Coolermaster Praetorian for $100 + shipping instead of the Lian Li, same quality and basic design, less the window. Save $25.

5. Go with the WD2000JS (200GB SATA II) maybe? Save $20.

6. Ditch the drive bezel, buy a matching drive. Save $13.

7. Swap the G5 for an MX518, which is still an excellent mouse. Save $20.

Just some ideas. BTW, I just saved you $143 - BEFORE shipping.

:p
 
Thanks.

I'm reading the DFI Ultra Infinity reviews on newegg and there are some bad ratings. Are you sure it's the same as the Ultra D without the UV?

Also, doesn't DFI say that a minimum of 480w PSU is needed to power their NF4 mobo's?

Please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Wattage is second to rails. If you get a good quality PSU, it'll run just fine.
 
Thanks, I'll be looking more into the Ultra Infinity, it'll save me money.

As far as the power supplies go, since rails is second to wattage, can anybody recommend a PSU that's the best bang for the buck that is sure I can use with the Ultra Infinity?

Thanks,
Arthur.
 
This Fortron is a really good PSU. Don't let the price fool you, I know a couple people with these and they love them.
 
i am a dfi user, and a dfi-street.com member, and i have seen alot of trouble caused by a power supply lower then 480w, it is written ON the board to use minimum 480w

http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showpost.php?p=101722&postcount=34

*DFI no longer will support customers who do not adhere to the minimum power supply requirements.

if the board has a 24-pin power connector, then you must have a true 24-pin power supply.

not a 20-to-24 pin adapter

not a 5,000,323watt 20-pin with 80000 amps on the 12v rail

a true 24-pin native power supply.

period.
 
indeed, the PSU aint nothing to slack on. I say stick with enermax, or high end Antec units.

Or of coruse PCP&C...
 
all that extra crap you dotn really need and can upgrade later liek tht 50$ keyboard, 50$ mouse, and aftermarket HS.

I say drop all that down to a basic Keybaord and mouse and use a retail HS and use the saved money to get yourself 1mb cache CPU... 512k cpu are so FY06' B.O.

Also, why the DFI mobo? cant you get a cheaper baord with the NF4 chipset and maybe shoot for a better GPU...
 
Stellar said:
I'd definitely recommend using ZipZoomFly instead.

1. Pick up the DFI NF4 Ultra Infinity instead of the Ultra-D. Same board, without the useless UV shit. Save $40.

2. You don't NEED a 550w PSU. Pick up a Truepower 430 or a Smartpower 500 (Modular!) for around $65. Save $20.


:p
Click to expand...

No the DFI Nf4 Ultra Infinty is not the same, the ultra-D is superoir in many ways. mor eto it than jsut US shit..

and the DFI ultra D has problems with crap PSUs, and a 430watt will not cut it. he need to be looking in the direction of a Antec 550watt or =
 
okay

well i don't think i'd want to drop the hsf, because i certainly want to cool my cpu since i will be overclocking it.

so i should get the dfi ultra-d?
 
I(illa Bee said:
No the DFI Nf4 Ultra Infinty is not the same, the ultra-D is superoir in many ways. mor eto it than jsut US shit..
Click to expand...

In what ways exactly? The differences are LDT voltage options, fan options, chipset fan type, socket layout, UV paint, and accessories. Functionally, they are 99% the same. The Infinity is capable of 310Mhz on the FSB per reviews, he probably won't even touch that.


and the DFI ultra D has problems with crap PSUs, and a 430watt will not cut it. he need to be looking in the direction of a Antec 550watt or =
Click to expand...

Wattage ratings are not the best references for choosing a PSU. Example, I use a Neopower 480 with my Ultra-D running an FSB of 290Mhz. Compare the amperages of the TP II 430 to the Neopower 480..

http://www.antec.com/specs/TPII430_spe.html
http://www.antec.com/specs/Neo480_spe.html

I also suggested the SP II 500 which he is looking at in the same price point. In any case, I'm not suggesting the Ultra-D because at this point he is trying to shave money off of his build, and the logical step would be to step down to DFI's budget gamer board which is clearly plenty capable for his needs.
 
you can get a faster processor and wait for a coupon for the 2005fpw
sometimes you can get it for $400
 
Will the Infinity and the Ultra-D overclock the same?

I don't care about the looks or anything, if the insides are the same and they will perform hand to hand then I think I'll buy it.
 
Artluo100 said:
Will the Infinity and the Ultra-D overclock the same?

I don't care about the looks or anything, if the insides are the same and they will perform hand to hand then I think I'll buy it.
Click to expand...

its a good overclocker... but so are all the other run of the mill Bf4 board.. MSI, Abit, ASUS.. The DFI ultra-D and SLI are in a league of there own. (expert included)

I see absolutely no reason to save 30 bucks a downgrade your mobo, especially if overclcoking is one of your goals. ill say this again, if you trying to save some money, you have a very expensive mouse and keyboard there you can save around 50 by downgrading those.

get the ultra-D you will be happy you did.
 
Also of note, the layout of the Infinity allows you to switch the chipset HSF (the Sunon is quite loud and annoying at full bore, and hot turned down) without worrying about video card clearance.
 
Here is a good keyboard/mouse combo that could save you $50..

http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=211298

Although it is currently OOS.

if you're still trying to save. I'm with you however in that money is no object when it comes to monitors, keyboards, and mice. These are the three parts of the PC that affect personal comfort and useability the most. I personally would never mate a $10 M$ mouse with a $1100 gaming rig.
 
Looks like someone understands where I'm coming from. But then I'm weighing it down. I can get a MX510 for around 30 bucks and it's a pretty decent mouse. I think I can get another keyboard for less than 50 that is good also.
 
Looks like a good setup you've got there. If you wait for a coupon, you can probably get the 2005FPW for close to $400.
 
Anybody know when the next coupon might come out? It's already at 20 percent off.
 
I'm thinking I may keep everything the way it is but I may change the motherboard to a LanParty Ultra D because I think it'll be better in the long run even though I have to live on bread for a few weeks :p
 
things not to short one.

PSU, mobo, GPU, CPU. Those are the things that are going to most affect performance. and out the box that is what you are going to want. Your not going to want your nice setup with LCD, nice keyboard and mouse and a system that is lacking and in need of upgrades to perform..

I think the for sures on your list should be a 1mb cache CPU, DFI Ultra-D motherboard, quality 480watt+ PSU, and your GPU of choice.
 
looks good dude.. your main list.. but I still go for the ultra D mobo.. its much better.
 
Over $100 for keyboard and mouse? Any particular reason you're going with those models? Heck, I got my cordless ms setup for quite a bit less than that and I thought it was borderline excessive...

Also, I'd go with an x800gto2 and unlock it, faster than the GS and around the same cost, if not less. The only reason to go for the GS would be sm3.0, but it's not really fast enough to make use of sm3.0 effects anyway (especially on res's you'd be using on that monitor) so really kind of a waste. Your call though, some people are partial to one brand or the other and the GS is still a decent card.
 
bobzdar said:
Over $100 for keyboard and mouse? Any particular reason you're going with those models? Heck, I got my cordless ms setup for quite a bit less than that and I thought it was borderline excessive...

Also, I'd go with an x800gto2 and unlock it, faster than the GS and around the same cost, if not less. The only reason to go for the GS would be sm3.0, but it's not really fast enough to make use of sm3.0 effects anyway (especially on res's you'd be using on that monitor) so really kind of a waste. Your call though, some people are partial to one brand or the other and the GS is still a decent card.
Click to expand...

I'll look into the x800gto2
 
I would recommend getting a faster video card and either a slower cpu, less excessive motherboard, or both. Overclocking is all well and good for bragging rights, but I bet if you sat down with my not overclocked skt 754 3700+ and compared it to some super cooled and massively overclocked 939 3400 or 3700 with the same video card and amount of ram, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between the two rigs unless you were looking at benchmarks. In everyday tasks I never find myself wanting for more speed and I doubt you would either. However, I can guarantee you will be able to tell the difference between a 6800GS or x800 series card and a 7800GT or GTX, especially on a 2005FPW where you're going to want to keep it at its native res with as much AA and AF as possible.

I'm not saying go socket 754, because really the price difference is negligable these days, but you don't need a DFI Mega ultra whateverthefuck with some superpowered PSU and overpriced ram to get good performance. Your money would be better spent on the best video card you can afford.

Just my .02, take it for what its worth.
 
I agree with him here, a better videocard and a less expensive mobo with a cheap chip will bet better than High mobo, high chip, mid GPU..

I dont agree with the PSU. The PSU you picket the ($60 antec) is the bare minium I would get if it were me. Even if your not overclcoking a good PSU is a must to protect your hardware alone.

but yea, shoot for a 7800GT, onyl 100$ more! maybe drop that mobo to a chaintech Nf4 or somthing....

unless of coruse you will need CPU power over gamming power.. (ie doing other things than gamming all the time)
 
you've made a point but then again if you look at my chip.. it's a 3200+, it's not that expensive, i don't know any other chip that is cheaper, unless it's a 3000+ but it's about the same price with a 9x multiplier.
 
I was looking at the intel dual core, are those chips good? i do some moderate gaming and overclocking.
 
Shogo said:
i am a dfi user, and a dfi-street.com member, and i have seen alot of trouble caused by a power supply lower then 480w, it is written ON the board to use minimum 480w

http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showpost.php?p=101722&postcount=34

*DFI no longer will support customers who do not adhere to the minimum power supply requirements.

if the board has a 24-pin power connector, then you must have a true 24-pin power supply.

not a 20-to-24 pin adapter

not a 5,000,323watt 20-pin with 80000 amps on the 12v rail

a true 24-pin native power supply.

period.
Click to expand...

Now that the OP has his rig spec list, I think it's more okay for me to go offtopic in this thread (though, not okay in the first place. Sorry about this.) .

I have a 450W Modstream and whenever I ask for help on DFI-Street, they blow me off because of 30 watts. OCZ is not a bad PSU maker, and in fact they love the powerstreams over at DFI-Street.

I posted about memtest errors, quickly and promptly had my thread closed because of my PSU. I doubt the culprit mod even read my post, just jumped to my sig, saw the 30 watt difference, closed it, and called it a day.

Explicitly in my post i put my bios settings. I decided to take it onto myself to fix the problem. The problem was that the DFI board was set to auto detect latency timings, explicit timings weren't set. I set them to explicit and memtest errors were all fixed. The PSU wasn't the problem, even though I was lacking the fabled and fantasmagorical 480W.

Take your build as far as your PSU goes with some rationality, something that those folks over at DFI-Street seem to lack. Amperage before wattage.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top