Project: BloodMoon

Dgephri

Limp Gawd
Joined
Apr 26, 2005
Messages
402
I decided to get my hands on a Qmicra when they first sold the Case by itself.

Managed one of the first Black ones, with red hardware.

I worked in Sketchup (thank you GoogleSketchup) for a quite a bit to do some space planning, and get my cutting layout so I like the look of it:

I ended up with the idea of the BloodMoon eclipse event from October 2004. At a certain point, the refracted light coming around the Earth turns the moon orange, rust, or reddish in hue. Called a Blood Moon.

BloodMoon-05102006.jpg


BloodMoonText.jpg


And then I had to find a way to do the domes shown in the Sketchup.

Voila! Cleardomes.com

couple phone calls to verify the capabilities, and for a "nut wrenching" price of $37 each, I got my two domes: one 6" diameter clear blue (like UV blue plastic) and one 1.5" clear. Done up in proper dimesions for comparitive size of the Earth (6") and the Moon (1.5").

Anyway, here is my first day of work!!:
Day 1--
6" round hole saw
marking01.jpg


marking02.jpg


holesaw01.jpg


holesaw02.jpg


testfit01.jpg


And the interior fit...a little sanding to really seat it perfectly, but that is pretty close!
testfit02.jpg


I did the smaller bore for the Moon dome, but didn't take a picture of it yet.

And the "foot mod"
foothole01.jpg


footmark01.jpg


footcut01.jpg


footcut02.jpg


should make it quite a bit easier to take the Lid off and show the internals without taking the Feet off, just leaving them threaded out a bit.

What do you all think?

hardware specs will be determined a little close to the Lan date of PDXLAN 8 in September. I am waiting to see about a Conroe mATX motherboard, GX2 or the next Nvidia card (if available) and maybe a pair of 750Gig parallel drives.

In the meantime, more cutting, more sanding, and some fiber optics to come.

I just did a test reassemble to check on component visibility with the new openings:
reassemble01.jpg


reassemble02.jpg


reassemble03.jpg


And the feet:
footmod01.jpg


footmod02.jpg
 
thx, I plan to work on the other cutouts in the coming days.

My printer is out of ink so I have to go fetch some color cartridges to print out my mask decal for the lettering on the top before I can start that detail dremel work.

In the mean time I will layout the "eclipse" section between the two domes. I need some metal between the opening for strength, and holding the acrylic parts from behind.

Question:
Should I use rivets (black or red anodized) to hold the windows/domes on, or just my typical high strength silicone adhesive (E6000 stuff)? The exterior isn't really industrial, but the rivets could give it that feel...
 
Cool project. I'd go with the adhesive to give a smooth and clean appearance. Besides later on you might want to airbrush some really cool stars to give it that 'outerspace' type feeling. I'll be keeping an eye on this. =)
 
I'm kind of leaning that way too, sort of my normal installation method anyway...I prefer the clean, frameless look instead of the window gasket type look.

Marking off my eclipse section now, I have been testing out those newer Metal Cutoff disk and the Quicklocking mandrel for them...good durability, worked well on the feet.

More coming soon!
 
This will be a project I'll be following.. looks awesome. What do you use to cut the case so perfectly in a circle? Dremel? Coping saw? Laser? bigger machinery?
 
6" hole saw. Not much clean up after that except for some black Sharpie to cover the silver parts. :)

Update again!

Just workin' like mad today--
the eclipse:
eclipse01.jpg


eclipse02.jpg


eclipse03.jpg


eclipse04.jpg


eclipse05.jpg


eclipse06.jpg


eclipse07.jpg


eclipse08.jpg


eclipse09.jpg
 
Sah-wheet mod! :cool:

Quite original. I can't wait to see how you pull this all off--espeically the sphere!

/'scribed!
 
thx for all the positive guys...more plastic work today, no ink for my printer yet to do my lettering mask :(

Update: decided to work on the red window between the two domes--
a quick trace gives me the shape
eclipse-window01.jpg


eclipse-window02.jpg


eclipse-window03.jpg


eclipse-window04.jpg


eclipse-window05.jpg


eclipse-window06.jpg


have to buy new Radiosh--- needle files, I can't find my old set...so those corners will get cleaned up and painted black to hide the silver.
 
just a little update...drug out my two 4" red cathodes, and a blue Lazer LED to see what I thought of preliminary lighting:

lighting01.jpg


lighting02.jpg


obviously wiring will be done later, I recrimp and sleeve everything when I have decided on the final locations.

I think I need two 4" blue ccfls on the big dome like I have red over on the small dome.

Thoughts?
 
I dunno. The big sphere should be blue, no doubt, but it only needs a little more blue, that way it doesn't overpower the red. Right now, the fade from the red to blue is really really nice and it gives it the look and feel of an eclipse.
 
thx man...I am weighing using 2 laserLEDs instead of just one, pump it up a bit, and I took one of the red ccfls out just to see, and it still keeps the Moon dome bright, but not overpowering.

I will get it there...and having all the feedback here sure does help!
;)
 
wow, lots of positive feedback! I really appreciate it guys.

I got ink for my printer, so later tomorrow, and Sunday morning I will be doing the printing (since I need it exactly a particular size) and then start the dremel work to cut out the top letters.

More pics to come and more lighting trials are in the works.

;)
 
well, I had to buy a new canon printer to save the ink cartridges I had just bought my old one...but the new one is pretty nice with a little flip up screen and built in card reader.

After fiddling around to get the letters the same proportions, I printed my letters onto while full sheet label material (so its stick all over).

I prefer full sheet adhesive since it won't move while you work with your dremel.

I cut little marks through my sheet so I could see my centerline, and laid it down directly onto the shell of my Qmicra.
toplettering01.jpg


toplettering02.jpg


Then I went around my first letter (I prefer to cut INSIDE the heavy black line) just to have a guide for my 1/16" carbide bit (actually meant for Grout removal, smallest I could find).

toplettering03.jpg


I then went on to start the slow process of working my way through the metal, little by little.

toplettering04.jpg


You can see on the backside just how narrow the cut is. I like to use nail files and such to finish the edges...this process leaves very little rough edge, and just a nice smoothing makes it look very finished.

toplettering05.jpg


As I move around the edges of my first letter (B) the support I have for my hand, and the angle of my tool slightly changes how the cut is made.

toplettering06.jpg


I have to consider when my center part will be free so I cut on the other edges to prevent putting weight on the most delicate section the letter.

toplettering07.jpg


Here is another look at the backside. The cut track is only about 1-2mm at its widest.

toplettering08.jpg


This is tedious work, but I already have one goof that I will have to adjust the shape of a letter. :x

By moving very slowly, in areas about 3/8-1/2" at a time, I can control the cutting path precisely. I much prefer to file a little longer in finish than to scrap the whole top of my very expensive case. :)

The first whole letter is now done:
toplettering09.jpg
 
Working some more this morning, got two more letters done:

toplettering10.jpg


And a look at the inside:

toplettering11.jpg


Then, I stopped off at the local pharmacy's manicure section for some of these:

nailfiles01.jpg


Which I find are very useful in detail filing, and they are a whole lot smaller and cheaper than regular files. :)
 
Sweet mod, looks like quality work so far. Can't wait to see how it works out.

the black knight always triumphs!
 
got the whole first word done, and some of the filing started on the B and the L.

toplettering12.jpg


toplettering13.jpg
 
You my good man are a master of the mod!!!! If you havent already go to www.mnpctech.com and add your log there, those guys are incredible and will give you some good feedback as well.

/bow *we're not worthy, we're not worthy!*
 
NICE post when u finish. wat parts r goin inside this beast??? PLZ dont make all show and no go like soooo many other case mods i've seen before.
 
I have been to those other sites, but call Gruntville primary home for now.

thank you for the compliments.

Right now the hardware list is "in flux"
conroe
but I need an mATX board that will support it
GX2 (or newer if the boards come out)
4X512 DDR2 Corsair
2X750G harddrives (parallel)
and some other stuff ;P
 
been doing some more filing, and to judge how well I was doing, I needed to take my printed letter mask off.

Ick, that adhesive only comes clean with citrus cleaner THEN paint thinner.

so here you can see it after clean up.

toplettering14.jpg


note the tool skips on the top of the B curve, and different part of the Os.

toplettering15.jpg


toplettering16.jpg


so I took a Sharpie PAINT marker, and just rubbed a little bit of black onto those little areas.

toplettering17.jpg


Up close you can still see the slight depression from the tool, but I'm not sure if I can really "fix" that. :(

These letters are about 80% of the way there IMO, some more smoothing to do, and small parts of the two Os aren't quite enough alike for my tastes.

Each cut is a bit better than the previous one, and my slow, tedious technique is paying off in needing only small files, taking a millimeter or so off at the most, and having the shapes well done instead of a lot of hard filing on the delicate section.

When totally complete, the silver filed edges will be covered in black paint too. Should make them appear VERY round when the only edge will be the light from below in red plastic.
 
lol ;)

I just couldn't resist cutting up the red acrylic to do a lighting test:

toplettering-lights01.jpg


not quite the result I had hoped for...but if I frosted the window (tested using a folded paper towel to simulate):

toplettering-lights02.jpg
 
Score the back of the piece of plexi with a medium to small grit sandpaper to get the same effect. Other than that, it is looking awesome. You my good friend are a master
 
:) (bowing) thank you for the kind words.

I first tried a soft sander (probably 200 grit) to fog it up, but the ccfl has to be right underneath it, no dispersion.

Then I pulled out some 60 grit and roughed up both sides, which was a little better.

I think I will get some solid frosted white plexi and put the red under it (like they do for backlighting LCDs and laptops) which should give me a pretty even glow of the red tone.

It's just a lot easier to find solid frosted white plexi and red lights than it is to find red frosted plexi and white lighting. ;)

Still experimenting, and still filiing, but I am really pleased with how close to my Sketchup it is.
 
finally, another update.

Had to return to work, and the holiday, and such.

The lighting has really been bothering me:
stripping tubes out of ccfls proved risky at best-a waste of 2 4" tubes.
so I went and fetched some 5mm 30mA red water clear LEDs and a handful of red diffuse 3mm just in case.

My idea is that making a mirror box (like my lightpump in Lubic Zen-Feng) should reflect the light, even it out, and keep it from washing the whole case in red light. I think I will add a layer of frosted white to even it out more.

led01.jpg


led02.jpg


led03.jpg


led04.jpg


led05.jpg


led06.jpg


led07.jpg


It's only 3/8" thick in total (using the score and break method was time comsuming) and covers the entire area that the letters on top occupy.

It has to clear the PSU and drive cage, and it will be attached directly to the shell so when I hinge it the whole thing comes up as one object.

the results (before the white acrylic):
led08.jpg


Much better IMO, and I think it will do the job nicely. Some black vinyl dye for the back to make it look stealthy from the inside, and Voila!
 
one of the other mods will be using some Fiber Optics, 2mm diameter.

Sort of like a VU meter.

4 sources, 12 lights

So I was playing around with locations, where to drill, where I could run the fiber without it being impossible, etc.

Does this make the front look "busy"?
Qmicra-fiberoptic01.jpg


Qmicra-fiberoptic02.jpg


or should I hunt for another location?
 
Not that I'm a modding expert or anything but I would say that they're a bit cluttered and might not fit the rest or your design.. I'm not entirely sure what you have in mind and how it would fit your case but maybe it might loook better if they were a little more towards the edge of the case rather than on that front panel..

Your dremmeling is excellent.. I wish I had that much skill and patience :p
 
I have been thinking along the same lines...considering along bottom for primary activity, center out, and from the outer corner up for secondary activity level.

I will work up a Sketchup revision and post it next day or two.

BTW, thanks for the compliment, just very slow and careful...lots of tiny files.

Edit, revision idea:
Qmicra-fiberoptic03.jpg


Qmicra-fiberoptic04.jpg
 
i am very impressed. keep up the good work. btw, nice part selection. im not sure how u plan on fitting the 7950gx2 in that small case, but im sure u'll think of something ;) .
 
well, as I have seen 7900GTXs fit in this, and I don't run any PCI cards, I don't think space wise it will be a problem:
just the link since I don't want to break any rules--http://www.pcdesignlab.com/images/forums/Qmicra07.jpg

even has an AC cooler on it with a TV card in the PCI slot. I am more worried about getting a DD watercooling block (if they make them for the GX2 ever) in time for PDX.
 
working on the layout of the fibers, fitting my rad, and I found a handy LED strober at frozecpu.com
http://www.frozencpu.com/lit-134.html?id=6HEKbRD7

currently talking with the source manuf. on how to adapt it to control 12V LED rails.

Problem with my fan selection on the Radiator:
radclearance01.jpg


the AC fans are 1.5" thick instead of the 1" standard on 120mm. I might have to revert to otherwise normal low rpm fan.

I am thinking about a way to shave a bit off, but need to make a test bracket to be sure.
 
assembled the NV-7800 onto a gpu from another card...
earth-02.jpg


earth-01.jpg



and the fit problem with the waterblock:
nv-7800-01.jpg


nv-7800-02.jpg


nv-7800-03.jpg
 
ur watercooling this thing too!? jeez, this is a micro atx case, rite? i have a midtower, and i could barely fit all my cabling in there wen i built it!!!!! wat ur doing with this thing kiks primal ass. keep it up.
 
well, I hope it will kick some...just got confirmation on my GX2 purchase from someone right here at [H]

The 7800 with the waterblock is just a test to see vertical clearance, since the GX2 will end up about as tall.

The DDC pump will go down just behind the front fans, my BIP II 2X120mm will go on the left side above the RAM and CPU, and I will have two fillports (one fill, one drain) as well.

It should all fit, but snugly...according to my sketchup work.

But I don't think I can use the AC 120mm, they are too thick (almost 1.5" instead of standard 1").

Should perform really close to just about any SLI rig out there.

And I just picked up a lovely Viewsonic VX2025VM that I am already enjoying today on my regular rig.

I decided that Conroe on mATX was too far off, and I can use most of my existing hardware on the Asus P5LD2-VM for now, slap a 930 CPU in it, and I should be able to clock it up nicely.

Glad you like it so far, I need to get back on my letters and finishing the side panel look.
 
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