After taking a break for a few years...back to w/c'ing! [LOTS-O-PICS]

Theorie

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 4, 2005
Messages
154
Ah just thought I would put up a thread for my new project. I used to be really big into watercooling a few years ago, but then I just didn't have the time for it anymore.

I recently decided I wanted to get back into it, so I'm giving my main rig a cooling overhaul.

Here's the current setup:
+ SilverStone TJ07 case (black)
+ (2) Dell 19" flat-screen monitors
+ 2.0ghz AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ (Toledo) currently running at 2.6ghz (260.01 x 10.0)
+ ThermalTake Tower112 heatsink & 92mm Vantec Tornado
+ Sunbeam 5.25" 4-Fan controller
+ 16x Dual-Layer DVD+/-RW
+ ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe motherboard
+ (2) eVGA 7800GT KO video cards running in SLI at 500mhz core / 1200mhz memory)
+ (1) ATI Radeon 7000 PCI video card to run my 2nd LCD
+ 2gb Corsair DDR 400 (TWINX2048-3200C2) RAM
+ SoundBlaster X-Fi FATAL1TY audio card
+ 80gb SATA "Primary" HDD (Dual booting Win XP SP2 & Win Vista RC1)
+ (2) 80gb SATA "Documents" HDD (RAID 1)
+ 300gb SATA "Server" HDD
+ 60GB IDE "Scratch" HDD
+ Linksys WMP300N Wireless-N PCI network adapter (yeah...I'm mooching wireless...)
+ Sunbeam Tech 540w PSU

With the door off:
DSC_3906.jpg


Yes, that's right...5 DVI Jacks. Don't worry - I only use 2.
DSC_3911.jpg


Overclocked on AIR - CPUID screenshot:
2_6ghz_cpuid.jpg


Well, I've been very happy with the ThermalTake Tower112 heatsink. I mean, This little 3800+ is easily pushing 2.6ghz and it idles at 32c, full-load at 40c. Not too bad! But, like I said, I really want to get back into watercooling.

I bought this case a little while back (just before I moved to NYC) specifically because of its great watercooling potential.

Here's what I want to out of this project:
+ Lower temps / More overclocking!
+ Less noise (and no more 92mm Torando!)
+ 100% internal operation (that means no external radiators, fans, pumps, etc.)
+ A nice and clean install

I really hate seeing these watercooling systems that are just thrown into a case with little or no cable/tube management. I'm also not a fan of "ghetto mods" like using wireties to hold a fan on a scrap heatsink. I want the install to be as clean as possible. The only cutting I want to do will be a hole for mounting the fill port, and a hold for mounting the drain port. I'll have to drill a couple of holes for mounting the radiator, but they'll be in the bottom of the case where no one will see them. Other goals for the project:
NO jagged cuts anywhere in the case.
NO colored coolant (it just looks so tacky to me...)
NO ghetto reservoirs
NO difficult filling/draining
AS FEW "T" lines as possible

In the past I've built many watercooling systems. For awhile I was doing a lot of product testing /reviewing for Swiftech, Innovatek, DangerDen, PolarFlo. Before that I was milling blocks myself. I really don't have the time / tools to build any blocks these days (I live in Manhattan! No room for a tool shed haha!) so I've decided to buy all the parts online.

I've always been a fan of DangerDen so I've decided to go with their stuff. I've never come across a DangerDen block I didn't like.

I thought I might sketch out some loop ideas. Here's what I decided to go with:
wc-mockup.jpg


The loop is actually pretty simple. Also, the lines might look a little long right now, but when I install everything I'm going to flip the radiator to lay in the other direction...that way the barbs will be right next to the pump & res. Ignoring the fill & drain ports, the loop will go be:

--RES--PUMP--CPU--GPU--GPU--RAD--

I've ordered the following parts which should be here by the end of the week, or sometime next week:

(1) DangerDen TDX Waterblock


(2) DangerDen Koosah 7800GT SLI Waterblocks


(1) DangerDen Aluminum Fillport


(1) DangerDen Delrin Drainport


(1) Danger Den DD12V-D5 Pump


(1) Alphacool Cape Coolplex Pro 25 Reservoir


(1) Black Ice GTX Gen Two Xtreme 360 Radiator


And also some misc fittings/clamps/etc.

The reservoir actually has (3) threaded ports on it. One will connect to the OUT line coming from the radiator. The second will connect to a "T" fitting that connects to the pump and also to a drain port. The third port on the res will connect directly to the fill port. I figure by having the fill/drain ports connected so close to the res, it will make filling/bleeding/draining a lot easier.

Of course, by cramming all this stuff in the bottom section of my case it creates the problem of where I might put my (5) hard drives. We'll I looked around and found these great Lian-Li 5.25" bay adapters that allow you to put (3) 3.5" hard drives into (2) 5.25" bays - and there's even an 80mm fan to keep them cool.

EX23B_1_t_LRG.jpg


I've decided to pick up two of these, which will occupy my remaining (4) 5.25" bays. In the future, I would like to watercool the HDD's also, but for now I have to stay within my budget... I figure I might replace the 80mm fans with some silent ones. I'm also going to take off the Lian-Li badges. I figure the result will look something like this (photoshopped) mock-up:

wc-front-mockup.jpg




Well...I guess that's all for now. When the parts come in I'll be sure to take a lot of photos...so check back this weekend or maybe early next week.

~theorie
 
Are you hosting all those pics yourself?

Or are you hotlinking?


Eitherway, looks good.
 
Almost all hotlinked from DD.com, need to change those quickly! This is sure to get tons of views and don't wanna get in trouble for that. :)
 
Two suggestions...

-I notice that you're trying to work within the constraints of the stock openings in the subfloor...this can lead to awkward tube bends and difficult cable routing.
I completely opened mine up into one large hole and many of my routing difficulties went away. By sheer happenstance, the stock edge trim (that white plastic stuff) was the perfect length to re-edge the single, large hole...granted, it had to be pieced together, but the final result looks fine.

-Your proposed layout for the pump/reservoir doesn't appear to leave any room for the PSU in the lower chamber. I suspect that the rez is going to have to move, which is probably a good thing as the fillport idea is also not terribly functional in practise. I know because I tried a very similar layout in my TJ.
The problem you'll run into is that air escaping from the loop during filling can only travel up the very same tube you're trying to pour water down and trust me, the air will win.
A pool of water on your caseroof is not a pretty sight.
You can eliminate this issue by adding a second fill/bleed port so the air has an unobstructed exit path, but I think the point is moot cause I'm guessing that the rez is going to have to be relocated anyway.

Good luck.
 
striph said:
Almost all hotlinked from DD.com, need to change those quickly! This is sure to get tons of views and don't wanna get in trouble for that.

didn't know that was a problem....i guess i'll upload them to my server. what a weird rule.


sprocket said:
Two suggestions...

-I notice that you're trying to work within the constraints of the stock openings in the subfloor...this can lead to awkward tube bends and difficult cable routing.
I completely opened mine up into one large hole and many of my routing difficulties went away. By sheer happenstance, the stock edge trim (that white plastic stuff) was the perfect length to re-edge the single, large hole...granted, it had to be pieced together, but the final result looks fine.

i was looking at that this morning. you're right about the sub-floor. i might have to open it up a little more. i'll only have a total of (3) lines passing though the sub-floor (one to the cpu, one from the gpu's, and one from the fillport) so i think i might be OK, but if it seems too cramped then i'll prob enlarge the opening like you said you did.


sprocket said:
-Your proposed layout for the pump/reservoir doesn't appear to leave any room for the PSU in the lower chamber. I suspect that the rez is going to have to move, which is probably a good thing as the fillport idea is also not terribly functional in practise. I know because I tried a very similar layout in my TJ.
The problem you'll run into is that air escaping from the loop during filling can only travel up the very same tube you're trying to pour water down and trust me, the air will win.
A pool of water on your caseroof is not a pretty sight.
You can eliminate this issue by adding a second fill/bleed port so the air has an unobstructed exit path, but I think the point is moot cause I'm guessing that the rez is going to have to be relocated anyway.

Good luck.

yeah, thats what i was worried about. keep in mind - the image is not exactly to scale. i just kind of thew everything in the pic to get a general idea. the case is very wide...so i was thinking that i would have room to play with the exact location of the pump/res. since im removing all three HDD trays, there should be an extra 2 inches at the front of the case. i think this should be enough room...if not, then maybe ill return the res for the shorter version - i know that one will fit.

also, i was thinking of putting tiny "air-vent line" with a valve, attached to part of the loop. that way, when i'm filling, i wont have to worry about water going in & air going out of the same line. i'll see if i can make a sketch of this to show you what i mean.

---edit---

here's what i was thinking as far as the "air-vent line". i thought i might switch out the top barb on the CPU block with a T fitting. i would have a reducer on one of the T ports that i could connect a very thin tube to...this thin tube would just go up to the top of the case where it would connect to a ball valve.

when filling or draining - i'll open up this air vent line. this should make the filling a lot easier...

wc-airvent.jpg
 
Consider mounting the reservoir vertically in front of the motherboard. This will eliminate the need for an air valve and for a fill valve. It can be attached with velcro so it is easy to move, or dump when draining.

Looks like several sharp bends in the tubing. You will need elbows for those bends. Mounting the reservoir vertically would simplfy this a bit and reduce the number of elbows.

I originally underestimated the radius needed to bend tubing. The result is I changed my reservoir. Now I have an unused Alphacool 25 if you are interested.

I like the idea of having all tubing connections at the bottom of the case (except CPU and GPU of course). If anything leaks, it is less likely to cause damage.

Cheers,

-- Rev
 
Revolvr said:
Looks like several sharp bends in the tubing. You will need elbows for those bends. Mounting the reservoir vertically would simplfy this a bit and reduce the number of elbows.

I originally underestimated the radius needed to bend tubing. The result is I changed my reservoir. Now I have an unused Alphacool 25 if you are interested.

that's exactly why i have an order in with USPlastics.

(4) Black Nylon Threaded/Barbed Elbows @ $1.24 each
(1) Nylon Threaded Adapter With 1/4 NPT Thread @ $0.30 each
(1) Black Nylon Elbow @ $0.31 each
(1) Black Nylon Tee @ $0.34 each

Man, I can't believe how expensive these things are from PC Watercooling stores. USPlastics sells them for like 1/4 of the price.

I'm going to put two elbow barbs on the res since two of the lines are coming from the top of the case. I'll put one straight barb on the res which will connect to the T line. From this T, one line will go to the pump and the other will go to the drainport. I'm also going to put elbow barbs on the rad and there will be an elbow between the rad out line & res in line. This should eliminate the need for any 45degree bends.
 
with both the rad and res in the lower partition, where do you plan on placing the PSU?
 
n00btard said:
with both the rad and res in the lower partition, where do you plan on placing the PSU?

External!!!

I bet he could fit it between the back wall of the case and the PSU... Or vice versa, as the PSU is mounted horizontally...

Last, what are you running in that loop? Aluminum and copper components require a hefty amount (15% + to be safe) of antifreeze or a good 3% of corrosion inhibitor.
 
Well, all the parts came today - only problem is that the (2) DangerDen Koosah blocks only came with one mounting kit...

I called them up and they said they would send one out right away. I hope to see it before the end of the week. Also, I need to pick up some fittings.

When I ordered fittings, I ordered all 1/4" NPT fittings...oops. I guess the Alphacool Cape Coolplex Pro 25 Reservoir actually takes 1/4" BSPT fittings. I didn't realized that G 1/4" is another way of writing 1/4" BSPT - or so I have been informed. (Is this correct, by the way?)

I'm going to get started on installing the components tonight or tomorrow. More pictures to come.
 
Theorie said:
When I ordered fittings, I ordered all 1/4" NPT fittings...oops. I guess the Alphacool Cape Coolplex Pro 25 Reservoir actually takes 1/4" BSPT fittings. I didn't realized that G 1/4" is another way of writing 1/4" BSPT - or so I have been informed. (Is this correct, by the way?).
Actually, you're looking for 1/4" BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel)... not BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper). It's rather akin to the difference between NPT and NPSM thread.
 
Petra said:
Actually, you're looking for 1/4" BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel)... not BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper). It's rather akin to the difference between NPT and NPSM thread.


Ahhh ok, thanks man. Just placed an order for the fittings I need.
 
Petra said:
Actually, you're looking for 1/4" BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel)... not BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper). It's rather akin to the difference between NPT and NPSM thread.

You can't forget NPTF.
 
Actually...it said it had G 1/4" fittings - but for some reason the 1/4" NPT threaded 90degree elbow fittings fit perfect. Wasn't even hard to screw them in - seems like a tight seal. (maybe because they are nylon fittings?)

Well I have (5) G 1/4" fittings on their way...since I'm waiting for the 2nd Koosah mounting hardware - the fitting problem isn't really holding me up or anything.



Tonight I took everything out of the case. Cleaned it 100%. Even took apart the PSU and cleaned the dust out. Cleaned the dust off every fan blade - front and back. Everything looks brand new. :D

I decided to try mounting the motherboard upside-down. I've seen it done before w/ this case, but it requires a little modification. For example - the motherboard tray slides out, but it will not simply "flip over" and slide in the other way unless you remove the top & bottom internal tracks for the tray.

The nice thing about this is that the bottom (well, now the top...) Koosah waterblock will be visible though the top of the case.

I'm bringing the case with me to my studio tomorrow to take some photos. Right now it's still pretty stripped down. I love this case. The entire thing is put together with screws so you can take it apart 100%. I've got some drilling to do tomorrow, and I need to make some brackets so the rad will mount on its side.

pics soon...
 
Really busy today, but I took a few mins to install one of the Koosah blocks & take photos.

Here's how it looks so far...

The Koosah & one of my eVGA 7800GT's
koosah_01_block-and-7800gt.jpg


The 7800Gt with the factory heatsink off
koosah_02_7800gt-naked.jpg


The Koosah mounted to the 7800GT (top view)
koosah_03_installed-top.jpg


The Koosah mounted to the 7800GT (side view)
koosah_04_installed-side.jpg


The Koosah mounted to the 7800GT (bottom view)
koosah_05_installed-bottom.jpg


Here's the view at the top of the case. With the motherboard tray mounted upside-down, you get a great view of the Koosah block at the top of the case. I think I might replace the factory black mesh with a nice piece of clear plexi...though - if I leave the mesh it will allow heat to rise and escape from the case...we'll see...
koosah_06_installed-top.jpg


I'm trying to figure out where I want to mount the res. I'm thinking I should either mount it next to the motherboard or down in the bottom. I could squeeze it down into the bottom area of the case, but I might have to use a a couple more 90degree elbow fittings. If I mount it up next to the motherboard, my only concern would be filling the system. Would this cause any problems? I'm having a brain fart...

Mounted in the bottom:
res_option1_bottom.jpg


Mounted next to the motherboard:
res_option2_angle.jpg


More pictures coming soon, like I said - busy day, but I'm going to play with this more a ltitle later.
 
What fans are you going to use on your GTX Gen Two radiator? I use 120mm x 38mm Sunon KDE1212PMB3-6A (108 CFM/42 dBA) on pull config in my v2000B case.
 
Pen3 said:
What fans are you going to use on your GTX Gen Two radiator? I use 120mm x 38mm Sunon KDE1212PMB3-6A (108 CFM/42 dBA) on pull config in my v2000B case.

Well, the case came with (4) 120mm Silverstone fans. They're not too loud and they have very good airflow. I guess I'm going to use three of them.
 
From what i read is that GTX likes fans with a lot of pressure, which you get from 120x38, i think 120x25 works ok if you have it on push&pull config. my other choice was to get Yate Loon Lows in that config for low noise. And i got Sunbeam Windmill to control the speed of all the fans.
 
I love the view through the top onto the video card, thats super sexy!

I dont want to start a flamewar, but i would reccomend you keep a carefull eye on the southbridge temps when mounting that fine mobo upside down. ;)
 
warmace said:
I love the view through the top onto the video card, thats super sexy!

I dont want to start a flamewar, but i would reccomend you keep a carefull eye on the southbridge temps when mounting that fine mobo upside down. ;)

lol, im confused...what does mounting it upsidedown have to do w/ southbridge temps? or was that a joke...
 
Theorie said:
lol, im confused...what does mounting it upsidedown have to do w/ southbridge temps? or was that a joke...

I learned about it here http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1121267&highlight=wickless

some people say when mounted upside down, the heat is transferred from the northbridge to the southbridge. which is undesirable if correct.

Others say the wick inside makes it work in either direction (if there is in fact a full wick inside).

http://www.electronics-cooling.com/Resources/EC_Articles/SEP96/sep96_02.htm

Oh god, iv said too much. :(
 
i wasn't aware that gravity determined the direction of heat transfer - i thought it was based on the internal heatpipe design...

are you sure about this?

i mean, on my old heatsink the pipes were horizontal to the ground - does that mean the heat wasn't going anywhere?

haha
 
There is a full wick inside that heatpipe. you have nothing to worry about.

Just wondering, what font did you use for the watermark?
 
Honestly, if there is no warning in the manual about reverse mounting, then i would say its all just superstition and your fine.
 
Bbq said:
There is a full wick inside that heatpipe. you have nothing to worry about.

Just wondering, what font did you use for the watermark?

good'ole verdana ;)
 
Theorie said:
if I leave the mesh it will allow heat to rise and escape from the case...we'll see...

I'm trying to figure out where I want to mount the res.
Leave the mesh (although you'll either have to replace it or cut the stock piece down)...with no venting on the sidepanel in the upper chamber area you need as much airflow as possible.

I'll take pics of mine later tonight.
We have very similar setups and you may get an idea or two....

Edit: as promised...
(my photographic skills are erm, somewhat lacking, I'm afraid)
3tjC.jpg


2tjB.jpg


1tjA.jpg


This setup is more a "proof of concept" than a finished install. In fact, the motherboard gets replaced next week with what I hope will be the final config (but you know how that goes...).
Anyway, it's a similarly sized/arranged reservoir and waterloop (although your SLI will complicate matters a bit).
 
few more photos...

tdx_01_tdx-box.jpg


tdx_02_top.jpg


tdx_03_bottom.jpg


tdx_04_installed-angle.jpg


tdx_05_installed-top.jpg


gtx-g2-360_01_naked.jpg


gtx-g2-360_02_fittings.jpg


gtx-g2-360_03_fans-angle.jpg


sprocket said:
Leave the mesh (although you'll either have to replace it or cut the stock piece down)...with no venting on the sidepanel in the upper chamber area you need as much airflow as possible.

I'll take pics of mine later tonight.
We have very similar setups and you may get an idea or two....

Edit: as promised...
(my photographic skills are erm, somewhat lacking, I'm afraid)

This setup is more a "proof of concept" than a finished install. In fact, the motherboard gets replaced next week with what I hope will be the final config (but you know how that goes...).
Anyway, it's a similarly sized/arranged reservoir and waterloop (although your SLI will complicate matters a bit).

great setup :)

and great pictures too. not as bad as you think. anyway, im wondering what your order is....

does it go PUMP --> RAD ---> etc or does it go PUMP ---> RES ---> etc

i havent seen that pump before so im not sure which way the flow goes...
 
Hod do you plan on topping off the system if your not using a T-line of the fillport in earlier sketches?
 
warmace said:
Hod do you plan on topping off the system if your not using a T-line of the fillport in earlier sketches?

well the res has 3 threaded ports in it. i was going to connect the fillport to a fitting in the 3rd threaded port...

so on the res, one port is an in-line, one is an out-line, and the 3rd is a fill line.
 
Theorie said:
im wondering what your order is....

does it go PUMP --> RAD ---> etc or does it go PUMP ---> RES ---> etc

i havent seen that pump before so im not sure which way the flow goes...
The pump is a MCP355 with a Petra's Delrin top.
Loop order is:
rez>pump>rad>Storm>NV78>rez.
I'm only testing the Thermalright NB sink temporarily.
The finished loop will include a NB block as well.
 
Update time...

More photos...the pump this time.

dd12v_01_angle.jpg


dd12v_02_back.jpg


dd12v_03_flow-regulator.jpg


The top of the T fitting will connect directly to the res. The bottom will connect to the drainport. The pump is the lowest part of the system (except for the radiator...) so it should be the best place for the drain port.
dd12v_04_t-fitting.jpg


I also realized that the top Koosah block was going to be a problem. When I put the mesh back on, the straight "out" fitting on the block wouldn't be able to connect. I swapped it out for an elbow fitting. I actually had to re-thread the fitting (it was the wrong thread) before I could screw it into the Koosah block. It's going to look pretty nice when it's all lit up in the top of the case. :D

koosah_07_elbow-fitting.jpg


koosah_08_elbow-fitting-side.jpg


I did a little more layout work too. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to fit everything. I think I've found the best layout. It should maximize the case's available space and also minimize the potential for any hose kinks.

planning_layout_02.jpg


As you can see in the above photo, I decided to put the PSU on the other side (it can mount on either side, down in the bottom). With the T fitting installed on the pump, I can just barely fit (like 1/4" to spare!) the pump behind the radiator. What's nice about this is that I can access the pump's flow control knob though the back of the case using a flathead screwdriver.

planning_layout_03.jpg


Also, I still have plenty of room on the other side of the radiator! I could probably fit 6 - 8 HDD's down there...

planning_layout_04.jpg


I still have to do some drilling. I've got 2 holes to cut in the inside floor (the top/bottom divider piece - not pictured in the photos since I took it out to make cuts) and I might also going to enlarge the ports...

I need to drill holes for the fill/drain ports too, but I want to do that last incase I need to relocate them.
 
A suggestion....
Rotate the pump 90 degrees so the inlet port points straight up.
This also aligns the outlet straight to the rad inlet port (presumably the lower of the two barbs).
Put your t-fitting between the pump and the rad.
I'm not scared of 90deg. fittings in general (i use them in my loop as well) but I don't think I'd put one at the pump's inlet.

Edit:
Just saw this and wondered if his rearrangment of the GPU waterblock barbs might make your life simpler...
 
yeah i thought about the 90degree bend right at the pump inlet...

im not really worried about it actually. ive done something like this before and it didnt seem to cause any problem.

im actually going to have several 90 degree bends in the system...i really want to route the tube so that it's out of the way.

if it does seem to cause problems, i can always change it. :)

this project should be done by next week. im waiting on the other Koosah mounting kit from danger den, some fittings from one website, and some nylon elbows from another...
 
It should be beautiful.

Out of curiosity...
How do your sidepanels fit?
Mine are freakishly difficult to remove/replace, so much so that I made a custom set from a pair of Lian-li v-2k panels ( which, BTW, perfectly compliment the TJ's color).
My new panels screw into the flanges rather than slide in like the stock ones do.

When I laid them out I made the mistake of assuming that the TJ was relatively square...it is NOT (which I suspect is why the stock panels fit so crankily).

Just wondering if this unique to mine or endemic in the breed...
 
sprocket said:
It should be beautiful.

Out of curiosity...
How do your sidepanels fit?
Mine are freakishly difficult to remove/replace, so much so that I made a custom set from a pair of Lian-li v-2k panels ( which, BTW, perfectly compliment the TJ's color).
My new panels screw into the flanges rather than slide in like the stock ones do.

When I laid them out I made the mistake of assuming that the TJ was relatively square...it is NOT (which I suspect is why the stock panels fit so crankily).

Just wondering if this unique to mine or endemic in the breed...

wow, that's strange.... mine fit PERFECT. they go on/off like butter. maybe you have a warped frame or something...



oh, btw...i've decided to mount the pump sideways so i don't have the 90degree bend just before the inlet. also im looking into fittings to make flush kit instead of a plain old drain port....

---edit for update---

yeah, just got a package with the Lian-Li EX-23b's....yeah, they don't fit :( way too wide. guess they're only for Lian-Li cases. oh well...
 
What a shame...those had a great look to them.
These will certainly fit but leave you with the task of beautifying the open bays.

No one said it would be easy, tiger.
 
well i think i might be able to mod the Lian-Li ones to fit...the reason why i went with them is because it lets you fit (3) 3.5" drives into the space of (2) 5.25" bays...

that one you link to requires (3) 5.25" bays.... i only have (4) 5.25" bays to work with....
 
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