Help!!! New computer issues

R

racingultimatedragon

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 9, 2006
Messages
246
okay, i just got about all the stuff i need for my computer.

*PSU
*MOBO
*GRAPHICS CARD
*CPU
*RAM


And now im having issues, when i first started it it ran for about 30 seconds making beeping noises, then i somehow got it to show the asus(or abit) screen then it turned off again, so i figured its becuase i didnt plug everything in (fp audio, fp usb, fp firewire, reset sw,etc..) so i figure since i forgot to install the studs for the mobo i'd do that too, so when i get to the audio pins, i see a jumper or whatever its called, so i remove it and install the plugs and get everything else hooked up. then when i plug the power cable in and push the power button, nothing happens. I look at the status led or whatever on the motherboard(it shows numbers) and its on, so i know its getting power. So i figured its the jumper, and im looking around for it and i guess i lost it so out of luck there, any ideas. btw, the board is an ABIT AA8 DURAMAX.

plz someone help me!!!
 
Could you please post all the components. Some suggestions for your problem:

-Clear CMOS
-Try a barebones approach
a)one stick of RAM
b)one harddrive
c)no optical drive
d)cpu, psu, motherboard

Also, go into the BIOS and load optimized defaults.

-Graham
 
Are you sure your heatsink is on properly? It might shut down after 30 seconds if you're not making good contact.
 
kirbyrj said:
Are you sure your heatsink is on properly? It might shut down after 30 seconds if you're not making good contact.
Click to expand...
actually, i took off my heatsink.


update, i switched my power supply over to 115v/or 250(whatever it was) now im not getting power to my board on either switch. any ideas? btw, graham when it shows the screen to the bios it shuts down immediatley
 
I would put your heatsink back on. CPU's tend to heat up rather quickly when they are on ;).
 
kirbyrj said:
I would put your heatsink back on. CPU's tend to heat up rather quickly when they are on ;).
Click to expand...
yeah i noticed, also do you have any idea with the power. hopefully its not fried but i got a feeling it is.
 
What kind of CPU are you running in that board anyway? It's kind of old.
 
check the switch on the back of the PSU?

The PSU ON/OFF switch I mean. Not the voltage selector but move that to say 110v.
 
those beeps are the post telling you what's wrong. Look up what the beeps you heard mean. Then you'll find your problem. Trouble is, you might have caused an issue when you put it on 220watts...
 
Even when you flip the switch on your PSU, it won't hurt anything, it just won't run
 
You probably fried your motherboard when you moved the switch on the back and tried to power it up. The switch on the back is for the input voltage to the power supply. The power supply will act according to the position of the switch and in doing so the output on each of the rails will change.

You should never move input voltage switch on the back. In the U.S. the electrical socket voltage is 110V.

Before touching that voltage switch, you need to check to make sure the memory is seated properly, make the memory is on the motherboard's memory compatibility list, make sure all connectors are plugged in correctly, make sure that you connected in the cpu power connector, make sure the cpu is properly seated in its socket, make sure you did not put too much or too little thermal compound, make sure the heat sink is making contact with the cpu/thermal compound, make sure that CMOS jumper is correctly set and that it is not set to the reset position, and finally, if you have tried everything, get a multimeter and check the amperage and voltage on each rail of the power supply. BUT NEVER MOVE THE INPUT VOLTAGE SWITCH ON THE BACK!!

I know many people who have moved that switch and have fried $1000's of parts.
 
Like I said before, I've had the switch flipped in the wrong input voltage, and all that ever happened to me is it wouldn't power up. I flipped the switch to 110V and away I went. Never fried a thing.
 
You were lucky kirbyrj. Changing the input voltage switch can fry things. Just cause it didn't happen to you doesn't mean it didnt happen to him. Just cause my friends fried their stuff doesn't mean that he will fry his stuff, but then again there is a chance. Unfortunately, changing the switch on the back is a huge risk if change from 110V.

One more thing kirbyrj, note that the original poster said that before he switch to 110V, the motherboard was getting power. After switching to 250V the motherboard wasn't getting power. After switching back to 110V, the motherboard still wasn't getting power and this he knew because the power light on the motherboard was not on.
 
I just said that because I was at a troubleshooting training seminar and the OEM computer guy that was there gave us a computer with a couple things wrong with it that we were supposed to diagnose. One of the problems was the voltage switch was backwards and didn't supply power correctly to the motherboard. Once I flipped the switch, no problems booting up the computer. I figured if it wasn't a problem for a "larger regional" OEM company, I shouldn't worry about it either. I've never fried anything, but YMMV of course :). Probably depends on the PSU manufacturer.
 
post codes:

84,96,9f(9f isnt listed in the manual)
in my book of the mobo:

its says post code 84:
initialize isa pnp boot devices(currently i dont have boot devices)

post code 96:
1.build mp table
2.build and update escd
3.set cmos century to 20h or 19h
4.load cmos time into dos timer tick
5.build msirq routing table

i dont know wtf it means, but sounds like something involving my bios, which i cant get into now.


also if its fried which most likely it is, do you think everything else is fried to?

thanks for the help guys, btw i switched it over again back to 110 or 115(whatever it was) still now power, probably going to buy an asus(since there good quality) soon.

btw, i do have experience building computers, i have also moved the switch on different motherboards, nothing happened, maybe cuz they were cheap? Just this one is being a b1tch!

also i checked all the cables and memory.


also if its for 110v in the us, then why the hell is there a switch for 220v? just wondering.



((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((3v17))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
 
racingultimatedragon said:
actually, i took off my heatsink.
Click to expand...


If you powered on your computer w/o a heatsink, you more than likely fried the CPU while doing that. It only take a matter of seconds before a CPU fries if there is no H/S to pull the heat off of it.


racingultimatedragon said:
also if its for 110v in the us, then why the hell is there a switch for 220v? just wondering.
Click to expand...

Because they don't just ship the PSU's to USA only.
 
If the PSU has died it could have taken anything else with it.
The only way to find out is test them.
 
Go to a PC repair shop and ask them to test your parts with another PSU. That is the only way to see what it took. Whatever you do, don't switch the Voltage, that could kill everything
 
well i havent got the chance to test all the parts except for the psu at a shop.


but i just realized today that my main computer has a pci slot(whoops!) and my video card works, so my hopes are higher now. any ideas that the rest of my parts will work.
 
racingultimatedragon said:
well i havent got the chance to test all the parts except for the psu at a shop.

but i just realized today that my main computer has a pci slot(whoops!) and my video card works, so my hopes are higher now. any ideas that the rest of my parts will work.
Click to expand...

not sure, I'm lost as to the significance of your other PC having a PCI slot.
The graphics card working means just that, it works.
It doesnt hint at anything else for the system other than its not the graphics card at fault.

Unless the PSU turns out to be the problem (or the system miraculously works), you will need to test your parts in another PC or get other parts to test in your PC.
 
Chernobyl1 said:
not sure, I'm lost as to the significance of your other PC having a PCI slot.
The graphics card working means just that, it works.
It doesnt hint at anything else for the system other than its not the graphics card at fault.

Unless the PSU turns out to be the problem (or the system miraculously works), you will need to test your parts in another PC or get other parts to test in your PC.
Click to expand...
k thanks
 
well i exchanged my psu and now im getting power to my board and its doing the same thing again, gets to the abit screen and then shuts off. (my heatsink is plugged in)

i get error code 64 which blinks but when i look in my manual there is no error code 64, and also stays on error code 24 then flashes 88 for a mil-second then shows 99 at the end when its shuts down.

out of all the error codes i listed only error code 24 is listed in the book and it says:

1.if Early_init_Onboard_Generator is not defined onboard clock gerator initialization.
Disable respective clock resource to empty pci and dimm slots.
2.init onboard pwm
3.init onboard h/w monitor devices.



all i really have plugged in is the power. (the usb and audio isnt plugged in)



any ideas?
 
9.F. <--POST code

µGuru force shutdown <--- Description

1. Power on -> Stop at 9.F.2. 0.0.->8.3.->9.F. repeat <---- Symptom

1. OC too high OR 2. Power supply compatibility <--- CAUSE

1.Restore default setting for BIOS OR 2. Replace with other power supply <--- Action

I suggest you try this:

flip the "ON/OFF" switch on the PSU to OFF
unplug the PSU from the wall,
Unplug the PSU from the motherboard,
Take out the "button" battery on the motherboard and leave it out overnight

then simply reverse the order to put everything back together and try to see if it will boot up.
 
ok well i researched and you only need the battery unplugged for a minimum of 5 minutes, so i did that and while i was waiting i took everything out and noticed that there was some extra bolts(forgot what they are called, they hold the mobo and are bronze colored, pegs?) touching the motherboard, so i said sh1t and removed them, and hooked everything back together and now i get past the post screen. Here is 2 videos that might help and a guide of the p.o.s.t codes: And also it still turns off after a while, the plugs for sound, iee1394,and usb are not plugged in.


Video 1
Video 2
P.O.S.T Codes, Pdf File


again, thanks for the help.
 
I am almost 100% willing to bet that the mobo is borked after having those stand-off's back there for the length of time that you did. Take everything out of the case and lay it on the anti-static bag that the mobo came in. Then reconnect everything and try to boot it.
 
racingultimatedragon said:
actually, i took off my heatsink.


update, i switched my power supply over to 115v/or 250(whatever it was) now im not getting power to my board on either switch. any ideas? btw, graham when it shows the screen to the bios it shuts down immediatley
Click to expand...


lmfao pwnt. you changed the power supply from US to EUR. And u started ur computer without a heatsink? good chance your shit is dead.
 
jbmx4life said:
I am almost 100% willing to bet that the mobo is borked after having those stand-off's back there for the length of time that you did. Take everything out of the case and lay it on the anti-static bag that the mobo came in. Then reconnect everything and try to boot it.
Click to expand...

Do everything as suggested except lay it on the antistatic bag.
Anti static bags conduct static electricty away over the whole surface of the bag. It wouldnt be a good idea to lay the motherboard on something that conducts.

I use a mgazine to put the motherboard on and earth myself on the PSU before working on it.
 
Chernobyl1 said:
Do everything as suggested except lay it on the antistatic bag.
Anti static bags conduct static electricty away over the whole surface of the bag. It wouldnt be a good idea to lay the motherboard on something that conducts.

I use a mgazine to put the motherboard on and earth myself on the PSU before working on it.
Click to expand...

I have never had a problem doing this. I have done it many times for various reasons.
 
Chernobyl1 said:
Do everything as suggested except lay it on the antistatic bag.
Anti static bags conduct static electricty away over the whole surface of the bag. It wouldnt be a good idea to lay the motherboard on something that conducts.

I use a mgazine to put the motherboard on and earth myself on the PSU before working on it.
Click to expand...

uhm, what are you talking about?

using the static bag is perfectly fine, since it is designed to protect equipment that is touching it from esd. The whole point of the static bag is that it dissipates charge. If you don't believe me, go get yourself a static bag, and test conductivity between points on it. What you'll find is that as the probes get farther apart, the conductivity goes down. You'll also find that at the voltages which most motherboards use, there is almost no conductivity, or at least not enough to damage anything. The idea is to isolate the motherboard, like you're doing with the magazine, since it is already grounded through the ground wire in the atx connector.
 
Desdichado said:
uhm, what are you talking about?

using the static bag is perfectly fine, since it is designed to protect equipment that is touching it from esd. The whole point of the static bag is that it dissipates charge. If you don't believe me, go get yourself a static bag, and test conductivity between points on it. What you'll find is that as the probes get farther apart, the conductivity goes down. You'll also find that at the voltages which most motherboards use, there is almost no conductivity, or at least not enough to damage anything. The idea is to isolate the motherboard, like you're doing with the magazine, since it is already grounded through the ground wire in the atx connector.
Click to expand...
one time my friend set his dual xeon on his static bag thinking the same thing as you and when he set his mobo on it, he shocked it. He called (newegg, i think it was) and they told him the inside is static resistant and the outside is not.


btw, im also taking it apart right now and setting it on about a 100 egm magazines. lol


sowing season, if you watched the videos you would know it works, its just having boot problems.


btw, i'd ship this to someone and pay them if i cant get it working. ***Last Resort**
 
Turns on for a short period and then reboots? After all the incredible blunders you've made, it's a testament to the resilience of computer parts that it still works at all!

Though, it sounds to me like it is doing the automatic shutdown from overheating thing. If running it without the heatsink didn't kill it before, it must have automatic shutdown capabilities. Probably means your heatsink isnt making very good contact, still has the plastic cover on it, or is upside down ;)
 
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