I've torn my system down and currently rebuilding it, see below. I have ditched the Koolance EXOS AL and have gone to system below. It's currently undergoing leak testing. I should have it up and running tomorrow and will post a build thread, but this issue deserves its own thread. I bought a Swiftech MCR-320 "Quiet Power" Series Radiator from Petra's Tech Shop and cleaned it per MaxxRacer's sticky at Xtreme Systems. I used distilled white vinegar. These pics are the results of TWO cleanings using the vinegar. Initially the vinegar was so cloudy you could not see through it, but I poured it into this glass and let it settle out for 24 hours. In a 12oz tumbler with 8oz of vinegar (I spilled some), you can see the results. There is a layer of white crud about 1/8" thick. Most of this is from the first 8 hour soak. You can also from the bottom shot that were a lot of metal particles that came out. Note that this is ONLY from the rad. The Storm, MCW-30 and EK 'blocks were already clean.
I'd say the results of this prove a couple of things:
First, cleaning your rad is an absolute must, no excuses.
Second, the white crud that people get on the inside of their tubing is coming from a dirty system.
Third, the use of an inline water filter with a 5 micron or smaller filter element is an excellent idea. Just think what would happen with no cleaning and no filter. I bought a whole house in-line filter and have installed it in my loop. I’m going to run it for 2 days on filter, then put it on bypass. I specfiically bought a larger whole house filter that has a bypass function. All you is turn is turn the top of the filter housing and it redirects the flow. The smaller filter in the sticky does not have this function. Once the bypass is engaged, you can then unscrew the bottom of the filter housing and change out the element or even remove it completely. The large size of the housing makes a graet reservoir once the element is removed. It holds about 1 liter. The last pic is of of the unit when I was setting things up. The housing is clear, but the blue is from the coolant I added.
I have no idea what this white stuff consists of.
Chenbro Gaming Bomb II
Gigabyte P965-DS3| BIOS F10
Conroe E6600
2 x 512MB OCZ PC2-6400 Platinum
EVGA 7900GT KO 256MB
Seagate 320GB SATA II
Silver Stone SST-ST60F
Dell 2405FPW
Cathar Storm G4
Swiftech MCW30 Northbridge Block
EK FC-78 VGA Waterblock
EK-RES250 Reservoir
Petra's DDCT-01 / Laing DDC
Swiftech MCR-320 Radiator
5 micron inline water filter
I'd say the results of this prove a couple of things:
First, cleaning your rad is an absolute must, no excuses.
Second, the white crud that people get on the inside of their tubing is coming from a dirty system.
Third, the use of an inline water filter with a 5 micron or smaller filter element is an excellent idea. Just think what would happen with no cleaning and no filter. I bought a whole house in-line filter and have installed it in my loop. I’m going to run it for 2 days on filter, then put it on bypass. I specfiically bought a larger whole house filter that has a bypass function. All you is turn is turn the top of the filter housing and it redirects the flow. The smaller filter in the sticky does not have this function. Once the bypass is engaged, you can then unscrew the bottom of the filter housing and change out the element or even remove it completely. The large size of the housing makes a graet reservoir once the element is removed. It holds about 1 liter. The last pic is of of the unit when I was setting things up. The housing is clear, but the blue is from the coolant I added.
I have no idea what this white stuff consists of.
Chenbro Gaming Bomb II
Gigabyte P965-DS3| BIOS F10
Conroe E6600
2 x 512MB OCZ PC2-6400 Platinum
EVGA 7900GT KO 256MB
Seagate 320GB SATA II
Silver Stone SST-ST60F
Dell 2405FPW
Cathar Storm G4
Swiftech MCW30 Northbridge Block
EK FC-78 VGA Waterblock
EK-RES250 Reservoir
Petra's DDCT-01 / Laing DDC
Swiftech MCR-320 Radiator
5 micron inline water filter