NEC LCD2490WUXi unofficial review

Juardis

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
310
It's unofficial because it's all subjective. After agonizing over this monitor, the Eizo 2411w, and the LCD2690, I opted for this one. This is my first experience with an LCD monitor other than my Dell 17" widescreen, which is an S-PVA panel and subject to noticeable and unacceptable color/contrast shifts when viewing from *any* angle. Since the Eizo 2411w is of the same panel, that ruled the Eizo out (however, I debated long and hard before ruling it out).

My main purposes are 1) photoediting, 1a) gaming, and 3) watching DVDs, editting home videos. So for that, I really wanted the 2690 and it's wider color gamut. However, repeated reports of problems coupled with the fact that it was a few hundred USD more, and well, I decided to get the 2490.

I'm still playing around with the settings, but this is my experience so far (after one week of use).

The good:
1. No dead pixels, no stuck pixels.

2. Silent as the night. No high pitched whine, no hum, no audible noise at all.

3. It's fast. I played Oblivion at 1920x1200 at the default monitor settings but with the highest quality option set in the game and the game response was in sync with my mouse response. AND THIS WAS WITH OVERDRIVE OFF (default setting). I may not turn overdrive on because I really don't see the need to, but I will just to test it out (and because I can :D). Seriously, I don't need to compare lag with a CRT side by side because I just don't notice it. As soon as I moved my mouse my character was moving simultaneously.

4. No ghosting/blurring that I saw. I need to play more and get into some intense battles, but the fighting I did in Oblivion did not show any ghosting blurring. Even just swinging my mace around I did not notice it (and I was looking for it).

5. No backlight bleeding or non-uniform color/luminance/blackness. And this with colorcomp off (default). I once saw, in the first 2 days of use, the horrific bright splotch in the lower left corner that andyo exagerrated in the 2690 thread, and I thought, oh great, even the 2490!!! I don't recall the circumstances under which I saw it, but I pressed my finger on the lower left screen, the image shifted slightly, and then it was gone. I haven't seen it since. I don't know if it occurred during a switch in screen state (for example, from off to on to off again) or if there was no signal when it showed up (and thus why it showed up) or if pressing my finger on screen actually fixed it (I seriously doubt it), but it's gone now, so I'm happy.

6. H-IPS. Absolutely no color/contrast shift.

7. I put in a 4:3 version of Spiderman in the DVD player and it played fine at the correct aspect ratio. The monitor default setting is FULL screen, but there were vertical bars are either side, so I'm not yet sure what FULL screen means. I have subsequently changed it to ASPECT, but I haven't played another DVD at that setting. I will say that the 480p quality (or lack thereof) shines through on a 1080p monitor :) The manual says the monitor will not display 480i, 568i, or 1080i, so I don't know what happens if the source is one of those.

8. The panel is NOT a mirror. I have two windows over my shoulder in the room I have the puter set up in and the glare off the windows is not a problem. My laptop is horrible to the point where I cannot play games during the day with windows over my shoulder.

The bad:
1. The single most annoying thing I can say about my monitor is that the screen door effect is noticeable if I sit too close. The monitor is sooo big and my desk sooo small that it's hard not to sit close (<24"). But if there is a gray background (for example, the Windows pop up windows), it's noticeable almost to the point of giving me a headache. I have to move back from the screen to make it go away (>36"). I don't know if that's the fault of the menu windows or the monitor. Sometimes it's visible on white background too. I thought by getting the 24" vs. the 25.5" that the screen door effect would be minimal. If not, I'm glad I opted for the 24" instead of the larger model. I messed around a little with brightness levels to see if that would make it go away. If anything, reducing the brightness made the screendoor effect on a white background noticeable. I do not notice it with dark colors. FWIW, I can see lines on both my 17" CRTs at 60hz, so maybe my eyes are sensitive to that frequency (which is also the frequency of the digital signal at 1920x1200)? Anyway, I'll play around some more to see if I can improve the situation. I plan on taking a picture of what I'm talking about and looking at it on my laptop to see if it's as noticeable.

I do have to say that I only notice this on my windows desktop or in office programs that have a lot of gray/light colors and are static. Gaming, movies, or my photos, I don't notice it at all. I think it's because the image is constantly changing and my photos are not pictures of gray cards :)

2. Black levels are not black at the default settings. This doesn't bother me and I will play around with black levels to see what I can do, but it's been well established that IPS panels aren't great at black levels (and I concur now that I have one). And there is the ever-so-slight-barely-noticeable-unless-you-look-for-it purple tinge to the black level.

What I have yet to do/other observations:
1. I do have a colorimeter and I plan to calibrate this monitor in the near future. In particular, maybe the contrast will improve and the brightness level dialed down to something more tolerable.

2. The default brightness is VERY bright. It's great during the day. At night with all the lights turned off, it's unbearable. However, there are some settings (ambilight and auto-brightness) that supposedly help this, I just haven't had time to play with it.

3. I think, maybe, perhaps, those people complaining about lag may not have a fast enough computer to drive 1920x1200 resolution (see the 2690 thread). I noticed lag on my lDell aptop playing Oblivion, but I have settings notched up a bit from what that computer can do easily. I notice nothing on my current rig and monitor.

Conclusion:
Other than the screen door effect, the monitor is great. It's responsive, it's big, it's IPS. The colors are crisp, it's quiet, and it doesn't put out a lot of heat. No dead/stuck pixels, no backlight bleed or non-uniformity, just great. Given the choice between my S-PVA laptop screen and my NEC with it's screen door, I'll take the screen door any day of the week. I just hope it goes away soon though..... Hmmmmmm, now that I think about it, maybe if I set my desktop to something lower than 1920x1200 the screen door will go away? Will have to try that soon.

Hope this helps. Oh, and from what I understand, this monitor is only available in the U.S., which probably explains why there is very little info on it.
 
Bless your heart for this review. This is the monitor that is number one on my list with all the S-PVA models a far 2nd. Did you have a LCD monitor before this one? I currently have a Dell 2405 (original rev-PVA) and need to replace it. It is a nightmare to work with Photoshop because of the color shifts that I see (big shifts even with the head moving just an inch or two). I have been scared to upgrade to an S-PVA model because I do not want the same problem again. I wish I could understand what a screen door effect was because I have never seen it on any monitor I have ever viewed. I guess that it affects only some people.
 
Bless your heart for this review. This is the monitor that is number one on my list with all the S-PVA models a far 2nd. Did you have a LCD monitor before this one? I currently have a Dell 2405 (original rev-PVA) and need to replace it. It is a nightmare to work with Photoshop because of the color shifts that I see (big shifts even with the head moving just an inch or two). I have been scared to upgrade to an S-PVA model because I do not want the same problem again. I wish I could understand what a screen door effect was because I have never seen it on any monitor I have ever viewed. I guess that it affects only some people.
As I said in my review, the only LCD I've used in my laptop, which is a 17" widescreen S-PVA panel and I too cannot use it for photoshop.

What I'm calling a screen door effect is that I can see the pixels with what looks like dark borders around each one, but only when it displays lighter colors (so far only gray and sometimes white since those are the predominant lighter colors on my desktop). Small pixels with borders around them look like a windo screen, or a screen on a door, hence the name screen door :)
 
I would appreciate your opinion of how the display looks (color and black levels) in a low light or no light situation compared to a lit room after you calibrate the monitor.
 
Ah, many thanks for pulling the trigger on this. I was aware that you had ordered one and was hoping you'd have some thoughts -- and here they are!

Very reassuring about the silence. Although the 2690 is a different beast I was still concerned that a poor power supply vendor might also provide a less than satisfactory component for the 2490. At least in your case, it seems to be a non-issue.

No ghosting; fast response. Good. Good. I'll be using mine mostly for games including FPS like CounterStrike, HalfLife and the like (although I prefer slower fare such as Company of Heroes and Paradox's titles (Europa Universalis , Hearts of Iron, etc.)

Screendoor effect. As you pointed out, the 2690 would have an even higher pixel pitch and so the only alternative to decrease it would be to go up to a 30". Nice, but it would break my bank for the graphics cards I'd need to run FPS at high settings. At work I use a 20.1" 1600 x 1200 at 0.255mm pitch and I do not notice any screen door effect. Too small is bad too: my 15.4" laptop' s native resolution is 1400 x 1050 for a 0.219mm pixel pitch. Even after fooling around with Windows desktop settings (large fonts, etc.) it is just toooo small. 99% of the time I keep it at 1024 x 768: fuzzier but at least I don't have to squint to see my icons properly.

I'll have to cross my fingers and hope the 0.27mm of the 24 incher is not too large for me.

Now the only disquieting thing I learned today in another thread was that there are some 24" expected out in June! I don't think I will wait, though.

Thanks, Man! Hope you get many quality years of service out of it. With any luck I'll be adding my own impressions of this monitor.

Edit: When you get a chance can you please try out a wide-screen DVD? One of the reasons I opted for a bigger monitor was to NOT have to buy an expensive LCD TV and instead watch my movies on a largish, quality LCD monitor. Thanks.
 
Now the only disquieting thing I learned today in another thread was that there are some 24" expected out in June! I don't think I will wait, though.

can u please clarify what you mean by "some", cheers

does anyone know the pixel warranty on the NEC's please
 
Screendoor effect. I use a HP L2035 at work which is a 20.1" 4:3 1600 x 1200 at .255 dot pitch. This is the same dot pitch as a 24" 1920 x 1200 and I do not notice any screen door effect (and I tend to sit close to the monitor, too). So I'm hoping this is a non-issue as well.
The dot pitch for a 24 inch monitor at 1920 by 1200 is actually 0.27 mm, not 0.255, so it's a little bigger than what you're used to. I use a 19 inch monitor which has an even bigger dot pitch (0.297 mm), but even on this I've never noticed any screen door effect, although maybe I'm just not sensitive to this.
 
3. It's fast. I played Oblivion at 1920x1200 at the default monitor settings but with the highest quality option set in the game and the game response was in sync with my mouse response. AND THIS WAS WITH OVERDRIVE OFF (default setting). I may not turn overdrive on because I really don't see the need to, but I will just to test it out (and because I can :D). Seriously, I don't need to compare lag with a CRT side by side because I just don't notice it. As soon as I moved my mouse my character was moving simultaneously.

Conclusion:
Other than the screen door effect, the monitor is great. It's responsive, it's big, it's IPS. The colors are crisp, it's quiet, and it doesn't put out a lot of heat. No dead/stuck pixels, no backlight bleed or non-uniformity, just great. Given the choice between my S-PVA laptop screen and my NEC with it's screen door, I'll take the screen door any day of the week. I just hope it goes away soon though..... Hmmmmmm, now that I think about it, maybe if I set my desktop to something lower than 1920x1200 the screen door will go away? Will have to try that soon.

Hope this helps. Oh, and from what I understand, this monitor is only available in the U.S., which probably explains why there is very little info on it.

Mmm, IPS. So far the only concern I have is that you tested it at 1920x1200. Input lag rears its head at the non-native resolutions (e.g. 1680 x 1050, 1280 x 720, etc.) Anyway you could test those non-native, but still wide screen resolutions?
 
Edit: When you get a chance can you please try out a wide-screen DVD? One of the reasons I opted for a bigger monitor was to NOT have to buy an expensive LCD TV and instead watch my movies on a largish, quality LCD monitor. Thanks.
Just plopped in LOTR, Return of the King. The opening script is a tad blurry, but nothing to be concerned about. I played it in FULL screen and ASPECT, no difference. Then I investigated Nero 6 OEM (came with my DVD RW) and explored the various settings. Many more options here. Bottom line, I could get widescreen no problem. It looked good. It wasn't hi def because the DVD wasn't recorded in hi def, and neither is my DVD RW set up to expand to hi def, so I believe what I was watching was 480p. Having said that, it looked good, real good. As good as it does on my 26" widescreen LCD HDTV. There is about a 1" border on the top and bottom of the screen and everything is in perfect aspect ratio. You can definitely watch widescreen movies on this monitor so long as you don't sit too far away. Helps to have good audio too :)
 
The dot pitch for a 24 inch monitor at 1920 by 1200 is actually 0.27 mm, not 0.255, so it's a little bigger than what you're used to. I use a 19 inch monitor which has an even bigger dot pitch (0.297 mm), but even on this I've never noticed any screen door effect, although maybe I'm just not sensitive to this.
Thanks for the correction. I edited my post. In my excitement I must have reverted back to earlier research. Rushing=sloppy=me bad.

Good to know that even 0.297mm is OK (at least for you).
 
It wasn't hi def because the DVD wasn't recorded in hi def ...Having said that, it looked good, real good. As good as it does on my 26" widescreen LCD HDTV....Helps to have good audio too :)
Thanks. None of my DVD's are hi-def anyway. As far as sound goes: I have a home-built silenced PC (water cooled with a Zalman Reserator), a Creative X-Fi card and Creative Z4 2.1 speakers, so no problem there! :)
 
can u please clarify what you mean by "some", cheers
The comment about the new 24 inchers coming out in June is in reference to a post by Kleox64 in the "What is *THE* 24-incher today?" thread. (Bleh: I can't seem to figure out how quote linking works in this forum so I'll just copy-paste it):

Posted by Kleox64: "I dont recommend buying anything at the moment, a lot is happening in the 24" area in June. Samsung, Apple, Viewsonic and Dell are updating their monitors."

I haven't investigated his statement. If there aren't any new 24" IPS included in that group then I'll be pulling the trigger on the 2490.

Anybody got recommendations on vendors? (I'm in Pennsylvania). I've ordered from newegg before so I am comfortable with them but I know there are cheaper outlets. I'm rather hesitant to give just anybody a big 1st time purchase just to save $30 or $40.

With regard to your defective pixel returns question: not sure myself. So far my criterion on a monitor choice has been technical (though I must say that travbomb has put NEC's customer support in a good light and makes the decision to go with NEC an easy one).
 
thanks a tonne mate :D i am about to get one, but will hold off a but longer. though get a gut feeling that TN panels might make an appearance in the 24inch market with this lots. will have to wait and see if that is right
 
Jauardis, how noticeable is the anti-glare coating on the 2490? Is it different from the one on your old Dell? The coating on many monitors bothers me.

Thanks
 
Jauardis, how noticeable is the anti-glare coating on the 2490? Is it different from the one on your old Dell? The coating on many monitors bothers me.

Thanks
Well, the Dell I have is a laptop and it's very reflective, and extremely annoying during the day. This screen has a anti-glare finish or something. Point sources are softened considerably. As I said in my original review, there are two windows behind me that reflect off the screen. During the day, on my CRT, it was tough because of the reflections. This screen is great because it doesn't really show the reflections, it diffuses them.
 
I was reading the other day (forgot where) that NECs pixel policy for Class II screens is 2 black or 2 white or 4 stuck on one color. Maybe travbomb knows for definite, but it's different for each manufacturer.
 
I am also going to wait to see what 24&#8221; IPS monitors come out. $1400 is more than I want to pay. I could care less about all of the adjustments in this model because I am going to use a calibrator anyway.
 
Just plopped in LOTR, Return of the King. The opening script is a tad blurry, but nothing to be concerned about. I played it in FULL screen and ASPECT, no difference. Then I investigated Nero 6 OEM (came with my DVD RW) and explored the various settings. Many more options here. Bottom line, I could get widescreen no problem. It looked good. It wasn't hi def because the DVD wasn't recorded in hi def, and neither is my DVD RW set up to expand to hi def, so I believe what I was watching was 480p. Having said that, it looked good, real good. As good as it does on my 26" widescreen LCD HDTV. There is about a 1" border on the top and bottom of the screen and everything is in perfect aspect ratio. You can definitely watch widescreen movies on this monitor so long as you don't sit too far away. Helps to have good audio too :)

Are you playing these DVDs with your DVD drive? It sounds like you are. If so, the computer is scaling it to 1920x1200. That could be why FULL and ASPECT are making no difference. It's when you're passing a non 16:10 aspect ratio signal to it that those 2 settings come into play. I would guess FULL stretches the signal to fill the screen while ASPECT scales but keeps the aspect ratio. A quick test you could do is to set your resolution to 1600x1200 and see what the monitor does in FULL and ASPECT mode.
 
" (came with my DVD RW) ". Your screen wont show anything but shit till you decide to get a higher res source, so do yourself a favour and do that!
 
" (came with my DVD RW) ". Your screen wont show anything but shit till you decide to get a higher res source, so do yourself a favour and do that!
I have an XBOX 360 next to the computer and a VGA cable. Not sure if the VGA cable will pass a 1080p signal because this monitor can't display interlaced signals. I've been too busy playing Oblivion and loading software to fully test out a HD source. Maybe in the near future. Also, I do plan on taking pictures and posting them. I just got a picture hosting site, but have yet to try to upload pictures (you know, Oblivion again :D).

But yes, I'm using the DVD player in my case and not an external DVD player for the previous tests.

By the way, I've played enough Oblivion to note that there is no blur, ghosting, or lag and this with Overdrive off. I think it has more to do with the processor and video card than the monitor itself, but if there is a 2 frame lag (like was reported on the 2690 thread), I surely can't tell.
 
I would appreciate your opinion of how the display looks (color and black levels) in a low light or no light situation compared to a lit room after you calibrate the monitor.
Ok, finally calibrated it last night using Monaco Optix XR Pro and the colorimeter that came with it (DTF 210 something or other?) Before calibration, I decided that the native color space of the monitor looked best, so I have left it at that. The default contrast ratio was 50% and brightness was 100%. 100% is WAAAAAY to bright in a dark/dim lit room. After calibration, my contrast ratio increased to 52% and brightness reduced to 68%. delta-E = 0.89 (pretty darn good IMHO) and luminance at 0.41 cd/m2. The brightness level is perfect now for dimly lit conditions. The blackness levels look black to me. Take this page for example. The middle is gray, the border around all the text (scroll to the very bottom) is black. It is just as black on my CRT at work as it is on my 2490 at home. The gray is a little lighter on my 2490 than it is on my CRT.

I editted some Grand Teton pictures I took a couple years ago that I never was really happy with on my laptop and subsequent print picture. If you've ever been to Jackson Hole, you know the sky is a deep saturated blue. Unfortunately, on my laptop and prints, the sky is washed out relative to what it was like. On my 2490, I was able to reproduce the sky like it was. Don't know yet what it will look like in print, but on my monitor it was breathtaking. And this with sRGB space. I believe there is not much difference between aRGB and sRGB space when it comes to blue, so I don't think I'd have gained much using the 2690 for example (at least in these pictures).

As for uniformity, I can now say for certain that there is some non-uniformity in black level, but it's only noticeable when there is no signal. I don't know how to describe it, but it's that moment when the computer is shutting down but the monitor is not yet in sleep state, there are some "splotches" that are noticeable if you look for it. On my monitor, the splotches appear in the lower left corner. Also, I have a screen saver called SETI @ HOME that is a 3-D bar graph surrounded by black space (as in outer space, complete with white dots representing stars). I do not notice any non-uniformity in it, and I'm looking real hard for it. However, when looking at an angle, the black space takes on a faint purple hue. Odd though, it only happens from one side. The other side there is no hue, just black.

So if you want absolute, perfectly uniform black levels, perhaps this will bother you. I personally don't have a bit of problem with it.

I still plan on taking some pictures and posting them since a pic is worth more than my words, but it'll be a while. I'm in the middle of remoddeling a bathroom ugh!!!
 
Thanks for your review, Juardis.

I'm close to ordering this NEC 2490 (the alternative was Samsung 244T, at half the price...). I'm a graphic designer, doing desktop publishing, ads, logos, but also some Photoshop work (photo editing, retouching and color correction), so my concern is mostly SHARPNESS but even more -- COLOR ACCURACY...

Do you think I could rely on this monitor to do the job?

And is there a way to MANUALY calibrate it, without the usage of commercial software/hardware (I hate spending hundreds of $ to be used ONCE...)

Thanks! :)
 
Just wondering... 'Cause now I'm thinking of maybe upgrading my plans from buying the 2490WUXi to a 2690WUXi... I notice the price difference is only about $100...

BUT...

HOW COME BOTH HAVE THE SAME RESOLUTION (1920x1200)? Wouldn't you expect a larger monitor to have higher resolution?.....

And again, is the monitor coming with SOME kind of a CALIBRATION SYSTEM (software? hardware?) or must I invest more of my precious $ to get that?

Thanks.
 
1900x1200 is the standard res for 26-27 monitors. Grandpa needs to surf the web too!

You can get it with the NEC calibrator (SpectraView) but it raises the price by $300.00 or you could just get another calibrator as well (One-Eye Display 2 for example).
 
My point is, this resolution of 1920x1200 is shared also by the 24" displays... So my conclusion is, the larger display (26" for instance) would have a larger DOT PITCH, which may make the details less sharp on it. Or am I wrong? Or is it at all significant?
 
I think that is something you have to see. Some folks see it and some don't. Yes the dot pitch goes up but then some folks think the dot pitch on the 30 inch is too low resulting in text and icons that are hard to read for some.
 
...So, in theory at least, one can conclude that the size of icons/menu text on a 26" display is LARGER than on a 24" display, when both running the same native resolution (in this case 1920x1200)...

...I don't even think it's in theory, I think one can notice it with a naked eye, if he really looks carefuly....
 
which may make the details less sharp on it. Or am I wrong? Or is it at all significant?

Which makes text easier to read. I don't understand how so many people are content with the small text of LCD displays. For me, 19" 1280x1024 is the smallest dot pitch I can handle and that's bigger than most monitor sizess out there.

It's not like I have bad eyesight. My last checkup put me at 20/15.
 
So...question: When turning the brightness down, at what point does the low end of you color gradients start to fade into solid black?

I have a LG L246WP and my color gradients start to fade into black when I turn the brightness down below 63. On the other hand I have a Phillips 230W and things never fade on it (0-100 brightness).
 
I know nothing about calibration, and am very close to making my decision on bying the 2690... But I don't want to spend the extra money for the model that comes with the calibration system, which I may buy later.

What's the best kind of calibration systems should I look into, how do they work, and how much am I expected to pay for them?
 
You don't have to buy the NEC calibration system. The best would probably be the GretagMacbeth® Eye-One but that would put you back about $1000. On the low end is the Huey for about $90. Probably the sweet spot would either be the Eye-One Display 2 $200-250 or the NEC SpectraVision for about the same or a little more as a bundle.

In my view, there is not point in buying this expensive of a monitor if you are not willing to pay for a color calibration system. No monitor is accurate out of the box. If you need to scale back to the 2490 so you can afford it then that would make more sense.

Out of the box the box your colors likely to exceed a delta of 3, with calibration they should be well below 1. Besides without calibration you are never going to be able to match your on screen colors to your print work.;)
 
What about 12bit technology for this product?
Is this because of dithering?
Or this is a true 12bit panel?
 
Is MANUALY adjusting the settings of the monitor against say, a photograph or a PMS color swatch -- available?...

If not, I was thinking to purchase a calibration system myself, looking around and finding a good deal, instead of having to get only what NEC is selling and paying NEC their retail price for this "extra"...
 
Manually adjusting against a swatch is pretty hopeless for 99% of the human race. You are better off using a hardware calibrator. Don't worry the better units have manual settings so you can tweak it.

I haven't heard much about the NEC package, nor I have been able to find a detailed manual online like Lacie does. But ya the One-Eye Display 2 would be worth considering (about $200 on Amazon)..
 
Out of the box the box your colors likely to exceed a delta of 3, with calibration they should be well below 1. Besides without calibration you are never going to be able to match your on screen colors to your print work.;)
Who still prints these days?

By the way, I calibrated using my eyes and some good test-screens/images. Works quite well, if you, for example, have another different screen next to it.
 
Who still prints these days?

You'd be surprised, there is a profession called Graphic Design, and we, designers create all the beautiful brochures, magazines, postcards, posters, ads... We send out files to Offset printers, and we need our monitors to be accurate enough so we know exactly what colors to expect from printing.
 
Who still prints these days?

By the way, I calibrated using my eyes and some good test-screens/images. Works quite well, if you, for example, have another different screen next to it.
LOL, actually, Meow, the person that I was replying to does but then he has already ready replied.:p

Trust me, your eyes are a poor way to calibrate. Primarily because your brain is an amazing machine and it quickly compensates for all kinds of color shifts and other visual anomalies. I am not saying it is silly to tweak a profile from a hardware calibrator but you are much better off using either its auto features or manually adjusting if you know what you are doing.
 
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