ACTIONTEC M1424WR Router Problem

A

annaconda

[H]F Junkie
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Apr 13, 2005
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Ok guys, i have a problem with my router right now or i belive it is router.


What is happening is i am losing connection to my DNS server every now and then, first i thought DNS is having some issue, because i could not connect to the server outside my network.

Then i realized that when i ping my router it does not respond, so i rebooted the router and it worked fine after than. But almost every day it does that, i have to reboot the router to make it work. I can connect to the router by using remote connection, and even connect to the server with the remote desktop connection.

I don;t understand why router don;t respond to pings, but i can connect to it remotely, and my server remotely.

It this a router or somthing else ?
 
Are you doing any p2p?

The Actiontec router has a limited number of NAT entries. Once those entries are used up, you can't do anything until they expire (or you reboot the router). I seem to recall reading that the primary cause is the absurdly long timeout on connections.

If you do p2p, or make heavy use of lots of simultaneous connections, you should probably replace the Actiontec. There are two different ways to do this (and still preserve guide data and VOD), depending on whether you have a coax or cat5 install. Tell me which you have and I will provide a link.
 
annaconda said:
I have Cat5, and yes i am using p2p alot.
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That would be the reason. With p2p, you quickly use up the NAT entries (1k NAT table) on the Actiontec and then you have none to use for 10(?) hours when they expire. The Actiontec hardware (CPU and memory) could easily support many thousands of NAT entries, so this is a firmware issue which may or may not be fixed with a firmware update.

I would look to upgrade your router with possibly a D-Link DIR-655. Since you have a CAT5 install, that makes things very easy. On the Actiontec, go to My Network -> Network Connections -> Broadband Connection (Ethernet) -> Settings and hit Release. Then unplug the Actiontec and swap it out with your new router. If you have FiOS TV, simply connect the Actiontec to a LAN port on the new router.

In the meantime, I would suggest you significantly reduce the number of connections in your p2p client. That should alleviate the problem somewhat.
 
annaconda said:
Actually i already have LinkSys.
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If you already have that, then use, use that. Be sure to release the Actiontec first, as described above.

And don't throw the Actiontec away. You'll need to connect it to a LAN port if/when you get TV service.
 
KenF said:
If you already have that, then use, use that. Be sure to release the Actiontec first, as described above.

And don't throw the Actiontec away. You'll need to connect it to a LAN port if/when you get TV service.
Click to expand...



I have the same router and one of the issues is it also doubles up as my FiOS modem. I.e. there is coax connected to the Actiontec router...
 
rayman2k2 said:
I have the same router and one of the issues is it also doubles up as my FiOS modem. I.e. there is coax connected to the Actiontec router...
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With both approaches below, you are able to replace the Actiontec with your own router and still get guide information and VOD for your FiOS TV service.

If you have CAT5 (ethernet cable) + COAX coming from the ONT outside to your router, then you plug CAT5 into your new router and keep the COAX connected to the Actiontec. You then connect the Actiontec to a LAN port on the new router.

If your install is COAX-only coming from the ONT, then setup is a bit more complicated, but you can still use your own router. You do this by configuring the Actiontec to operate in bridge mode, which basically converts the COAX WAN connection to CAT5 WAN and bypasses all of the Actiontec's built-in routing functions. Here is how:
SidneySM said:
Actiontec bridges MoCA WAN to switch port 1, which feeds my router's WAN port. One of my router's LAN ports connects to switch port 2, which feeds the STBs, applying Verizon custom DHCP handling.
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Summary

The COAX remains connected to the Actiontec. Run CAT5 (ethernet cable) from LAN PORT 1 on the Actiontec to the WAN port on your new router. If you have TV service, also run CAT5 (ethernet cable) from LAN PORT 2 on the Actiontec to a LAN port on your new router.

For the purposes of this setup, have your PC connected to LAN port 3 (or higher) on the Actiontec. Once you are done with this setup, connect your PC to the new router instead.

Once you've done that, take a look at the video and follow the directions below.

SidneySM said:
Well... This ain't exactly a step-by-step, but here's a video walkthrough of my setup. Should provide adequate information.
Click to expand...
ceyko said:
First thing to remember is that this assumes a 192.168.x.x IP addressing scheme internally. If you check my earlier posts, I was trying 172.16.x.x which I don't think will work when STBs (set top boxes) get 192.168.3.x address via the AT. This CAN be changed, I just don't know if I consider it worth the effort. I don't consider the AT easy to work with like a Cisco router/switch and without a console port I don't like chancing having to hit the reset button again. hehe

Anyway...
I'm going to say the EXACT same stuff that Sidney did, but I'm going to try an throw more details and quotes from the AT in there.

1st- via "My Network" then "Network Connections" and then "Ethernet" I think...scroll down and change "hide" to "show" for the 4 port switch on the AT (Actiontec). Click port 1 (can be any port, but you can change that later if needed). Click "Add" and put in the VLAN number you want, I made it VLAN 2 due to native/default VLAN paranoia and change Ingress policy to tagging and enter the PVID as 2 (or whatever you made it). Do it in that order or else it'll cause a minor error. Apply.

2nd - create the VLAN as mentioned before via "My Network" then "Network Connections." Click "Add." I used Vlan 2 since I was paranoid about Vlan 1...default/native vlan...etc However, remember to select "Ethernet" from the drop down. Apply.

3rd - I followed the OP's advice and released the IP and disconnected the COAX cable to make SURE it did not pull another IP address. On the PIX you can't release it and then you're stuck calling Tech Support to get them to break your DHCP lease.

4th - I went "My Network", "Network Connections" and then "Network (Home/Office)", "settings". I also emulated exactly what was in the video which was "Broadband Connection (Coax)" and "Ethernet 2" both being checked in the left hand box AND STP boxes. Also select "No IP Address" from the "Internet Protocol" drop down. Apply.

5th - At this point plug your ethernet cable into port 2,3 or 4 and do an "ipconfig /release" then do an "ipconfig /renew" and you should get a 192.168.2.x address and be able to admin the box via 192.168.2.1.

6th - Once I was back in I saw "Broadband Connection (Ethernet)" was disabled, so I enabled it.

7th - Now comes the part I had some confusion with terminology on. Here is what you do with cable.
a. Plug a cable in from switchport 1 on the AT and plug it into the WAN/Internet side of your router/firewall.
-What Sidney did was bridged the VLAN/Switchport 1 and the WAN connection together.

b. Then from the non-switching ethernet port which is directly next to the "Reset" button...plug that into a LAN port. Meaning any port on your LAN side of your router/firewall.

c. Make sure your router/firewall pulled an address from Verizon and then proceed to make sure you can get on the Internet.

8th - At this point I went and reset a STB (set top box). One mistake I had been making earlier is expecting immediate results. This is not the case. You can try a widget those seem to work right away, then about 5 minutes later the VOD will work and about 10 minutes later the regular guide should work.

9th - I then went to advanced - remote administration and allowed remote https connections so I can remotely admin the AT via the web interface.
Click to expand...
 
holy crap! that seems doable, but unneccessary :(


is it hard to ask verizon to make an ethernet connection for me? or do they do it at their own discretion?
 
rayman2k2 said:
holy crap! that seems doable, but unneccessary :(


is it hard to ask verizon to make an ethernet connection for me? or do they do it at their own discretion?
Click to expand...
Prior to an install, if you run CAT5 (ethernet cable) to the spot (indoors) where the ONT will be installed, they will use CAT5. As a general policy, Verizon will no longer run CAT5 throughout a customer's home, but they will use any existing CAT5 cabling. Some nicer installers will still run CAT5 if asked, but Verizon discourages that.

As an existing customer with an previous install, Verizon will not come out for free to switch you from COAX to CAT5. What you can do is run the CAT5 to the ONT yourself and then call them to enable it. They can and will enable CAT5 over the phone for existing customers (it's a menu item on their screen), they just won't send a technician out to run the wire for you. Note on newer ONTs like the Motorola 612, enabling CAT5 WAN will disable COAX WAN.

If you can't or won't connect the CAT5 to the ONT yourself, then you may be able to run the CAT5 yourself and then request a service visit for them to connect it. But you can expect to pay for that visit ($40?).
 
I followed the instructions and now have internet connectivity directly through a Buffalo DD-WRT router. The M1424WR bridges Coax from the ONT to port 1 of the internal switch and my Buffalo router recieves an Internet routable IP. The M1424WR receives a NATed IP from the Buffalo so I can watch on-demand and receive guide information.

BUT my problem is speed. I'm getting usually from 8-10mb/s when my connection is supposed to be 20 down/ 5 up. I've used bandwidth tests from speakeasy and speedtest. In addition I've tried downloading torrents and linux ISOs over ftp. The speed seems slower than Comcast and definitely below what I was brought to expect.

Is anyone else having speed problems with FiOS?
 
The default settings in 2000/XP are tailored for 768Kbps DSL. I assume you've run the FiOS speed optimizer and rebooted?

http://www2.verizon.net/help/fios_settings/optimizer/

If not, you might try running that and testing Speakeasy again after a reboot.

I assume you ran tests on the Actiontec before you reconfigured it to operate in bridge mode? So you have something to compare?

Throughput on the DD-WRT routers can be very sensitive to the options you enable. You aren't trying to use QoS on the Buffalo, are you? The Buffalo routers will sustain 20Mbps with most options disabled, but the more features you enable, the less throughput you get. Note the Actiontec uses a 450MHz CPU compared to the 200MHz CPU found in most Buffalo 802.11g routers.
 
Actiontec is a very good router in my opinion. I talked to verizon and they are going to send me the new router which is the newer model of Actiontec M1424WR model, they also acknowledge that router has been shutting down automatically for some reason.

Just for the record actiontec has same range as Linksys N router do, almost same. The only bad thing is it does not have Gigabit Nics.
 
annaconda said:
Actiontec is a very good router in my opinion. I talked to verizon and they are going to send me the new router which is the newer model of Actiontec M1424WR model, they also acknowledge that router has been shutting down automatically for some reason.

Just for the record actiontec has same range as Linksys N router do, almost same. The only bad thing is it does not have Gigabit Nics.
Click to expand...
The Actiontec has an Intel IXP42x CPU @ 533MHz and 32Mb RAM, making it comparable to many of those $300-$500 routing boards you see advertised. The Actiontec will sustain over 80Mbps with QoS enabled, compared to 20-22Mbps without QoS for most Linksys and Buffalo routers.

The primary issue with the Actiontec is its small NAT table. It is limited to 96 simultaneous connections and has a pathetic 1k NAT table. With its CPU and memory, it could easily support 10x that amount, but FiOS and/or Actiontec have chosen to limit the router in that area, perhaps to discourage or limit its use for p2p.

If somehow one were able to hack the Actiontec to increase its NAT table, increase its connection limit, and reduce its absurdly long connection timeouts, it would be a very nice wired router. Given those limitations though, along with the mediocre 802.11g radio, I can't justify using it except as a CAT5->COAX bridge.
 
so in your opinion, if I had the option of running a Linksys or D-Link Wireless-N w/ Gigabit router, I should rather than hooking a gigabit switch and a Wireless-N access point?
 
I just got off the phone with Verizon. We ran multiple Speedtests with the original Actiontec installed and reset. I'm getting at most 10mb which is half of my supposed 20mb. Verizon scheduled a service call to check their problems.


Here is a tracert to speedtest.verizon.net.

3 8 ms 9 ms 9 ms P9-0.LCR-04.TAMPFL.verizon-gni.net [130.81.59.66]
4 41 ms 41 ms 42 ms so-1-0-0-0.CORE-RTR1.DFW03.verizon-gni.net [130.81.20.157]
5 41 ms 41 ms 42 ms po1.ctn-border1.vzlink.com [206.46.225.85]
6 43 ms 41 ms 42 ms po121.ctn-core1.vzlink.com [206.46.225.18]
7 41 ms 41 ms 42 ms 206.46.241.4

You can see a definitive problem on Verizon's side of the connection. The outgoing link from Tampa is bombing. This has been going on for a week now so it's definitely a Verizon service issue and has nothing to do with my ONT, Actiontec router, or recently tested Buffalo router.
 
rayman2k2 said:
so in your opinion, if I had the option of running a Linksys or D-Link Wireless-N w/ Gigabit router, I should rather than hooking a gigabit switch and a Wireless-N access point?
Click to expand...

I really did not understand this part. How a switch can be implemented on FIOS with out any Router or Modem.
 
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