To lap a Xigma HDT-S1283

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Valset

Supreme [H]ardness
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Title says it all. Looking at it I think it would be hard to get a flat surface with sandpaper as the copper heat pipes would probably pit with the harder metal around it. But I could use a polishing stone; I have 220 to 800 grit (stones finish much finer then the sandpaper grits). Would the stones finish better or is it even worth doing this? This will be going on a 9600 black edition.

TIA for feedback.
 
Valset said:
Title says it all. Looking at it I think it would be hard to get a flat surface with sandpaper as the copper heat pipes would probably pit with the harder metal around it. But I could use a polishing stone; I have 220 to 800 grit (stones finish much finer then the sandpaper grits). Would the stones finish better or is it even worth doing this? This will be going on a 9600 black edition.

TIA for feedback.
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if it were to pit, then it was done wrong. its only going to pit if your sanding surface is not flat.

use some spray adhesive (just a *touch*) and stick the sandpaper onto a piece of glass. then you hold the heatsink and move it across sandpaper to sand it. when you want to change grits, the paper will peel right off the glass, then just wipe the glass with a cleaner, and do it again.
 
I lapped my Xigmatek 1283 the other day so I have a couple of hints to give you if you're a first timer.

Make sure you have a TV running or the radio playing and plenty of beers as this may be a 3-4 hour event. I used fine grit 400,600,800,1000,1500,2000 wet/dry sandpaper which you can find at any car auto store. I think the ones I used where from 3M but sometimes you may have to go to 2-3 stores to find all the grits. You don't have to use the higher grits (1,500 - 2000) as I did it for a nice mirror finish.

You're going for a nice flat heatsink. Use a razor and put it on the heatsink when starting, look at a light source and if you see any come through then that means it's not flat. Hence the reason for lapping but you're looking for a straight finish not a shiny one.

The Xigmatek has alot of metal so don't worry about you going through the copper and letting out the liquid in the heatpipes.

What I did was wet the paper and added a dab of dish washing liquid. I move the heatsink foward and back making sure it didn't "jump" 30 times each way. Then rotated it 90 degress and did it 30 more times each way. Cleaned the paper by running it through water and repeated the cycle by turning the heatsink another 90 degress and finally the last 90 degress making a 360. Make sure you don't put pressure on the heatsink itself...just pushing it on it's side (or the bottom metal part of the heatsink) fowards and back.

Do this for all the grits but if you decide to do the higher grits you can forego the water and soap at the 2000 grit or even maybe the 1500 grit.

You should in between each grit use a damp paper and clean in between the metal clumps from between the heatpipes. You can do the same with your processor and as I did and all together I had a 8c drop from idle but a 12c drop from load.
 
that might make it worthwhile. I am still thinking of using the polishing stones as they are already flat and would be MUCH faster.
 
stain. said:
So, is this HSF pretty much the HSF to get?
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Best bang for the buck IMO....just make sure your case can fit it. I had to modify the side of my CM stacker so I could use this heatsink and still make use of the side 80mm fan.
 
Mine is in a P-180B case and it close to the side cover, plus the only reason I lapped mine is I put a straight edge across heat sink area and it was far from straight and true.I also had a Zalman that was like the same , plus the cpu was of also had a dimple on the top right corner so lapped the cpu alo got a 3.5 lower idle and have yet to see load go over 42c with ambient at 24c. This was compared to the Zalman 9500 I replaced the X with on this E8400 stock speed cpu.
 
if clearance is an issue, get the D1284 instead, it's performs better too.

and wow taco...8c and 12c drops are pretty sweet!
 
stain. said:
So, is this HSF pretty much the HSF to get?
Click to expand...

There are better (like the thermalright TRUE), but they cost significantly more. I went with it simply because it is such a great value.

However, the bolt through kit should be included even if it raises the price slightly.
 
I Just installed mine in my p180 now.. I wish I would have gotten the bolt-thru kit earlier.. well.. I havent picked it up yet, but I'm going to.
 
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