FS: Almost complete WC setup ($150 shipped)...

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Nafets

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Shipping is USPS Priority with DC to anywhere in the continental U.S.

I accept PayPal (non-CC and CC) and money orders.

My Heatware username is Nafets and my eBay feedback is under the username "Nafetsman".

If you have any questions, contact me via PM. Thanks.........Stefan Huber

---------------------------------SOLD ITEMS--------------------------------------------------

First off I have a WC setup that I used for a total of two days. Although it was very quiet, I never really could get used to the humming of the pump. So I'm wrapping it all up and going back to air cooling.

All blocks and parts were thoroughly flushed with distilled water before use and I had absolutely zero leaks, using the supplied clamps and fittings. The WC setup was used with only distilled water and a silver killcoil.

I am not splitting up this WC setup. What you see is what you get; no more and no less. I have receipts for everything except the hose clamps (Sidewinder), the Koolance 4-fan wiring harness (FrozenCPU), and the tube cutter + 6/32 screws (Lowe's). All items were purchased new by me, and have only been used by me.

I apologize for the lousy pictures. I have a cheap camera and no photography skills. :)

I am asking $150 shipped for the whole WC setup.

Here are pictures of all the items with a short description;

Swiftech Steel MCB-120 "RadBox" Rev.1
Box.jpg


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Enzotech SCW-REV.A CPU waterblock
Cpua.jpg


Cpub.jpg


NOTE: The copper waterblock came with a blue plastic cover. The cover was quite loose, so I removed it and cleaned up the sticky tape holding it on. It's purely cosmetic and has no effect on the waterblock's performance or operation.
Cpuc.jpg


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(3) 120mm fan shrouds + (12) Custom cut 6/32 x 53mm machine screws
NOTE: The fan shrouds are gutted, open corner, Yate Loon D12SL-12 case fans. I cut the screws with a Dremel so that they are a perfect fit for securing a 120x25mm case fan and fan shroud to the Swiftech radiator below.
Fan.jpg


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Swiftech MCW60-4870 GPU waterblock
Gpua.jpg


Gpub.jpg


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Tube cutter + 1/2" T-Line + Enzotech NPH-ID1/2-G14 fillport + Silver Killcoil + ATX PSU bypass adapter + (12) 7/16" - 25/32" hose clamps
Misca.jpg


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3-pin to 4-pin adapter with RPM support + Koolance 4-fan wiring harness to 3-pin
Miscb.jpg


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Sunbeam IC-PSU-US-2545-DW 450W power supply
NOTE: I used the PSU only for testing and priming the pump/filling the system
Psua.jpg


Psub.jpg


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Danger Den CPX-Pro pump
Pumpa.jpg


Pumpb.jpg


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Swiftech MCR320-QP-K triple 120mm radiator
Rada.jpg


Radb.jpg


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Swiftech MCRES Micro Rev2 reservoir
Res.jpg


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Sunbeam Rhoebus 5-1/4" fan controller
Rheoa.jpg


Rheob.jpg


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Clearflex 60 tubing 1/2" ID / 3/4" OD
NOTE: These are either unused left over pieces or intact pieces from my build. The ends are all cleanly cut and the tubing is in excellent condition.
Tube.jpg


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Secondly I have a retail boxed Sapphire HD4890 that has stopped working for me. I purchased it new a little over 3 months ago and it has worked great.

As far as I can tell, the problem started during the install of a Swiftech GPU waterblock. I must have accidentally nicked one of the memory VRMs. After installation I booted up the PC and it loaded up into Windows. Everything was working fine at the desktop, but as soon as I tried to play a 3D game the screen began filling with yellow dots and then the monitor just went blank. I rebooted and there was no signal to the monitor, yet I could tell that the PC was booting up fine and loading Windows. Just no video signal from the card. The HD4890 also makes a very quiet electronic whine now. :( Someone with soldering skills could possibly replace this damaged memory VRM chip or just mess around with the card.

I am asking $30 shipped for the HD4890.

Here are pictures of all the card with a short description;

Sapphire 100269SR HD4890 1GB
4890a.jpg


4890b.jpg


NOTE: All of the software is unused with legit, working CD keys.
4890c.jpg


NOTE: The area circled in green is the memory VRM that looks to me to be damaged. Unfortunately I couldn't really get close enough for a real good look, without everything getting blurry or the flash being too bright. I am not a photo buff. :D
4890d.jpg
 
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