Dtek WhiteWater block cracked

O

orkan

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Jul 9, 2002
Messages
1,488
I have been using this waterblock for about a month. The system has not been moved. The block has not been removed since its first installation. Without warning, today the block cracked, and leaked all over my system.

crack.jpg


Luckily, I was sitting right here, and ripped the power cord out of the wall right after my system locked up, and was able to save all of my components.

I am emailing Dtek about getting it replaced with the aluminum topped version. This is clearly a manufacturing defect, or I would not ask for a replacement.

Anyone else experience or hear of this happening?

I'll report back here with their response.
 
I have heard of similar things happening with other poly topped blocks, D-Tek and Danger Den, both.
 
thats down right scary one of the reasons I have yet to switch to water cooling yet.
 
that blows.

I refuse to use anything other than solid copper blocks. to hell with plexi and aluminum (at least when mixed with a copper baseplate).

if you want a solid copper solution, check this out:
http://www.logiccooling.com/Merchan...re_Code=LC&Product_Code=WWTop&Category_Code=W

your other option would be to buy a piece of copper from online metal.com and build your own copper top. that is a good way to suck up a couple hours on a saturday afternoon. :D
 
yeah, all coper would be cool... but does that top perform the same as the original?
 
been lucky, i believe the block i have has seen over a year of use, but mine is a Cathar Original White Water ;). Good luck with that, seems kinda crazy, but manufacturers arent as meticulous sometimes.

flip:(
 
Originally posted by orkan
yeah, all coper would be cool... but does that top perform the same as the original?
Click to expand...

Yes... the top's only purpose is to seal the block and allow a place for barbs to fasten, so really it will perform much better than a poly top.
 
Yeah, poly is great for looks, but I feel myself that nothing but metal should be on a block.

Heck, my acrylic bay-res sometimes freaks me out...but it's an evil i'll live with since I haven't seen a metal one yet, and haven't gotten hold of a brazing setup to make my own either.
 
Originally posted by mustang_steve
Yeah, poly is great for looks, but I feel myself that nothing but metal should be on a block.

Heck, my acrylic bay-res sometimes freaks me out...but it's an evil i'll live with since I haven't seen a metal one yet, and haven't gotten hold of a brazing setup to make my own either.
Click to expand...

copper bay-res.....hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.
*goes to look up copper sheet prices*

;)
 
i have heard of a few problems with poly topped blocks...i also hear the DD stuff uses a different material which is stronger and much more resistant to cracking. Ally is not a problem...it wouldnt crack like that poly for sure....i see no realy advantage at using copper topped over ally...i really dont see it making a massive difference. Sorry to hear u had this problem...good luck with getting it sorted.
 
Originally posted by orkan
I have been using this waterblock for about a month. The system has not been moved. The block has not been removed since its first installation. Without warning, today the block cracked, and leaked all over my system.

crack.jpg


Luckily, I was sitting right here, and ripped the power cord out of the wall right after my system locked up, and was able to save all of my components.

I am emailing Dtek about getting it replaced with the aluminum topped version. This is clearly a manufacturing defect, or I would not ask for a replacement.

Anyone else experience or hear of this happening?

I'll report back here with their response.
Click to expand...


Im very sorry to hear that your wb cracked man! But I have a question regarding your tubing.

What tubing do you use? PVC / Silicone / Tygone ?
 
that sucks dude, it always scares me to hear/see watercooling horror stories
 
damn, I guess if you'd had sturdy pvc that could have caused it,, but thygon isn't sturdy,, its in fact more flexible then a flaccid :D

You make me want a [h]ardtop
 
I think the reason people use aluminum is because of the weight difference in AL vs Cu. Not that it REALLY matters all that much, considering the block is generally bolted to the board. I'll have to say i think poly topped blocks look a bit more 'cool' than the copper varieties, but then again, the copper blocks have a bit of simplistic 'class' to them. As far as plastic topped blocks, if these makers would just use some polycarbonate instead of lucite/plexiglass i think the problems would go away... Polycarb scratches more easily and gets melted by acetone, though.. So there are some tradeoffs :p
 
Doesnt matter to me if its 'perty'.

Id rather have it running and not leaking!

My DD3 is getting 2, maybe 2.5 years old now. I've inspected the block a few weeks ago and the O ring was still perfect., so is the lucite top,,,,,,, But the glue between the barbs and the lucite worried me. :rolleyes:
 
Originally posted by diredesire
I think the reason people use aluminum is because of the weight difference in AL vs Cu.
Click to expand...

The main reason to use Al is that it's cheaper and easier to machine than Cu.
 
when the crack happened, did water jet out of it or did it just trickle out. ive never seen a watercooling system leak and im new to watercooling, i wouldnt think that the water presure was strong enough to push it out with any decent force.
 
Originally posted by zer0signal667
The main reason to use Al is that it's cheaper and easier to machine than Cu.
Click to expand...

bling!

2" x 3" x 1/2" copper C110 = $8.01
2" x 3" x 1/2" aluminum 6061-T1 = $1.98
2" x 3" x 1/2" plexi/acrylic/poly/lexan/other clear shat - about $2....but much less tool wear than compared to either of the above.

dimensions used strictly for comparison purposes.
 
Originally posted by acascianelli
when the crack happened, did water jet out of it or did it just trickle out. ive never seen a watercooling system leak and im new to watercooling, i wouldnt think that the water presure was strong enough to push it out with any decent force.
Click to expand...

It didnt "jet" out, it just leaked down the top of the block.

It would seem that D-tek's reputation is well earned. Here is the reply I got:

"No problem. I have two options for you. I can send you the aluminum top setup or you can send your block in and we can convert it for you. Do you have an order number so I can issue an RMA?

Thanks,
Danny"
 
Originally posted by zer0signal667
Yes... the top's only purpose is to seal the block and allow a place for barbs to fasten, so really it will perform much better than a poly top.
Click to expand...

I really hope you didn't just say a copper top will perform better than a poly top. The top has ZERO impact on how the base of the block removes the heat from the CPU core.

Danny's customer service is top notice. Did you notice the nice finish on the base? He just got done revising the lapping and now ships near perfect blocks.
 
Originally posted by MrHappyGoLucky
I really hope you didn't just say a copper top will perform better than a poly top. The top has ZERO impact on how the base of the block removes the heat from the CPU core.
...
Click to expand...


Orkan's original question was whether a Cu top would perform the same as a poly top, to which Zer0signal667 was replying that, yes, it would. My guess is that the reason he said it would be "better" is because Cu doesn't have the cracking issue that some poly tops have. Dunno.
 
copper tops >aluminium tops. If not for the very minute amount of extra cooling you'd get( I said minute damn you!) but because it wont have the battery effect that copper and aluminium have. Yes, it happens even with anodized aluminum. theres pic's out there, and I've seen it in my block, although its not that bad.
 
Originally posted by MrHappyGoLucky
I really hope you didn't just say a copper top will perform better than a poly top. The top has ZERO impact on how the base of the block removes the heat from the CPU core.

Danny's customer service is top notice. Did you notice the nice finish on the base? He just got done revising the lapping and now ships near perfect blocks.
Click to expand...

I based my performance rating on the actual purpose of the top, which I know is not to dissipate heat. As I said, the purpose of the top is to seal the block and provide a mounting point for the barbs, which copper obviously would do better than the material his top was made of.
 
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