Got a new Radiator (56k warning,)

It has been almost 2 years since I upgraded my rig in any way since originally posting this. My water system has been running flawlessly since ironing out the problem with the cracking reservoirs caused by using hy-per lube.

Comp specs:
Chenming ATX 801-F file server case
Abit KX7333R
AMD XP1600+ OC'ed to 1.90 Ghz @ 1.91 volts
Geforce3 64 Mb
Adaptec 29320A U320 SCSI card
Fujitsu 73GB MAS3735NP U320 SCSI HD
IBM 18 GB SCSI HD
Plextor 12/10/32S SCSI CDRW
Chaintech AV-710 sound card


Cooling specs.
Block: Lytron CP20 with various TEC's or Danger Den maze1
Radiator: Lytron 6220 all copper heat exchanger
Pump: Iwaki MD20R 420 GPH
Reservoir: homemade 16oz lexan pos
Tubing: Tygon R-3603 3/8" ID and 1/2" ID from RES. to pump inlet.

Currently running without a peltier using Danger Den Maze1 block my temps are mid 30's celcius(according to MBM, we all know how reliable that is) at full load with an ambient temp of approximately 28 C.

I get below ambient temps with a 122 watt peltier and even better temps with a 156 watt but could not increase my OC with them so I'm not running TEC's ATM.

Please excuse the dead links..

Got a new Radiator

Originally posted by mota on 06-22-2002
Its a Lytron 6220 to replace my 6120. I have alot of work to do before I'm ready to use it though. I need to find four 172mm fans, 2 for the rad. and 2 for the case. I'm in the process of getting some 213 CFM delta fans(EFB1512ME), this is the major thing stopping me because they have never been brought into the US before. Its probably going to take a month or so to get the fans. Need a better pump also, I'm looking at Iwaki pumps, probably getting an MD20 or an RD-30 24 volt pump.

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Originally posted by mota on 07-12-2002
No luck getting the delta fans or the Iwaki RD series pump. I picked up a couple 172mm fans from Jameco for $15 ea. and got an Iwaki MD-20 pump from marine depot. Already tested the fans and they start up at 5 volts and run nice at 8 volts. They are about the same noise level as the 120mm 140 CFM mechatronics fans that I have on the 6120.

The fans from Jameco bolted right on with 4 x 6-32 screws.

Heres the MD-20 pump with the isolation mounting I made for it.

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Originally posted by mota on 07-13-2002
I originally planned on using an OilRite 9 oz. Gravity-Flow oil reservoir but when I got the thing I discovered it had steel pipe fittings and also the flip-top was steel.

I had to find a different res. or change the fittings to brass on the OilRite res. and do away with the steel flip-top. Looking for another container to use for a res. at Mc Master Carr I discovered they sell the same containers OilRite uses.

These polycarbonate containers are very heavy duty, the walls are .125" thick and the lid is designed for drilling out to add pipe fittings. I returned the 9 oz. oiler with steel fittings and picked up a 9 oz. and a 16 oz. virgin OilRite containers.

Heres the link to the res. I returned. It was part #1358K23.
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/html/1972.html

Heres the link to the OilRite containers. I got part #s 3999T4 and 3999T5.
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/html/1531.html

I decided to use the 16 oz. res. and make it run inline. I made a mounting bracket out of .125" aluminum that has 2 x 8-32 holes. It will attach to the front release handle on my mobo tray. The fittings in front of the big res. are what I will be using to make it an inline setup.

The fitting on the left is a 3/8" barb with 1/4 NPT threads, water will enter the res through this fitting. Next to that is a 3/8" elbow with a short piece of tubing that will go on the inside and direct the water whatever way is needed to prevent a vortex from forming and sucking air into the pump. The 1/4 NPT threaded brass plug is for the fill hole. The fitting on the right is a 1/2" barb with 1/4 NPT threads that will connect to the pump with 1/2" ID tubing.

Here is how the res. will mount in my case. Even though it looks like its blocking the fans it does not affect my mobo temps at all.

I just need to drill and tap 3 x 1/4 NPT holes, 2 in the lid and 1 in the top for the brass plug.

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Originally posted by mota on 07-23-2002
I finished the reservoir.

Still have a lot of work to do.. I just finished adding 4 x 120mm panaflo L1A's to the back of my case last night in a marathon modding session.

Here's some "before" pics of the case.

Getting ready to drill and rivet the new fan plate on..

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Originally posted by mota on 07-23-2002
Finished case..

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Originally posted by mota on 07-25-2002
I got the radiator installed last night. I had to cut out the window for the bigger rad. and and drill new mounting holes. I also made a grill for the new rad. out of perforated steel that has a 1/4" hexagonal hole pattern.

Closeup of the grill material.

I got the fans installed and wired up.

I'm now working on building the actual water cooling system.

Starting to run the tubing. Once I get the tubing cut to the correct lengths I will take it back to my garage to do final assembly and leak test for 24 hours. I'll post more pics as I build the system.

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Originally posted by mota on 07-30-2002
The only thing that has given me any trouble so far is the reservoir. I added some hy-per lube rad. treatment to the system and got a lot of foaming in the res. I noticed a faint antifreeze odor after adding the hy-per lube and figured out it was coming from the top of the res.. the fill plug was not sealing good enough. I kept tightening the fill plg till the smell went away and figured it was "problem solved". The next morning when I fired up my system I got a strong odor of antifreeze, I had a leak.

Turns out the res cracked in 6 places because the fill plug was overtightened. there was a puddle of water on top of the res and it was bubbling over. I picked up a new res. at Mc Master a few hours after discovering the cracks.

The top of the res.

Broken res. removed from system. The system is fully primed still, note the shutoff clamp on the right. The clamp locks all the water in the system allowing me to remove the res. (after draining it).

It took a few hours to get the new res. installed. I had to drill the fill hole and also remove the mounting bracket from the old res. and attach it to the new one. After that I was back in business.

Refilling the new res.

The new res. with a rubber plug instead of the brass threaded one. No more antifreeze smell.

Res. with the foam problem. I have fixed this now by adjusting the water level. There is still a lot of turbulance in the res. kind of a fountain in the middle.

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Originally posted by mota on 07-30-2002
Filling the system for the first time.

Heres how I used my res. from my first system and compressed air to prime the system. I connected a 3/8" OD poly. tube to the 1 gal. container and force fit the other end into the 1/2" barb in the res. going to the suction side of the pump. After filling the 1 gal. container with water I used compressed air to blast water through the entire system and partially fill the res. even though there is over 30' of water path in my system it only took about 10 seconds to fill the system this way.

System was fully primed in seconds. The res. removed all trapped air in minutes and the pump settled down and was whisper quiet.

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Originally posted by mota on 07-30-2002
Here is the water block I'm using.

Specs and performance info for Lytron CP20

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Originally posted by mota on 08-16-2002
I took the 122 watt peltier off and changed to the danger den maze1 block since the cp20 is not good for straight water cooling.

I won't be using a peltier again until after summer is over. I will be getting a new block from Lytron called the Ascent, it is the same design as the cp20 but in copper. I'll be using a 156 watt peltier with the Ascent.

I'll be upgrading my system next week with a KX7-333 R, PC3200 DDR and an xp1600+.

Heres a pic of the cracked peltier. It still works.

More pics..

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Originally posted by mota on 03-14-2003

I called the california rep. for Lytron today and the Ascent coldplate is still not available yet. He said they are still developing it and it will be several months till it is released to the public. He was very interested in my application for the ascent and told me he would call me as soon as it was available.

Here is the graph showing the performance of the ascent compared to the cp20.

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Originally posted by mota on 11-10-2003
Bad news. The Ascent CP25 will not work with my 40mm and 48mm peltiers.. it is only 33mm wide. This ruins all my plans as far as peltier cooling with a "true" copper microchannel coldplate. It looks like it will work fine for plain water cooling though so I still want to get the Ascent.

Minimum order from Lytron is now 3 pieces and the CP25 is $150 and I am going to need to find 2 other people to go in on it with me.

Here is the CP25 page with performance numbers and dimensions.
http://www.lytron.com/standard/cp_extended_II.htm

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what is that under the res? is it a flow meter?

if so where'd you get it/how much? I've been toying with the idea of having some sort of flowmeter in my system, but haven't really found much

Ch1m3r4 said:

what is that under the res? is it a flow meter?

if so where'd you get it/how much? I've been toying with the idea of having some sort of flowmeter in my system, but haven't really found much

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It is a rotary flow sight I got from mc master - part # 80135K22. It's only a visual indicator but there is an optional hall effect sensor kit you can add to make it into a electronic flow meter.

Cole-Parmer has them also.