NV Silencer 5 guide for dummies (BFG 6800 GT OC version)

NV Silencer 5 installation for the BFG 6800 GT OC with 2-fan cooler

General comments: This is a step-by-step guide to installing the NV Silencer 5 on a BFG 6800 GT OC. It is meant to be very simple. It is a supplement to the instructions provided with the NV Silencer 5.

To do this installation, you will need:

BFG 6800 GT OC graphics card
NV Silencer 5 heat sink-fan
Arctic Silver 5 (“AS5”) thermal compound (the itty-bitty $9.99 tube is plenty)
An open PCI slot next to your graphics card
A clean, flat surface to work on
A Philips screwdriver
Isopropyl alcohol (90%+) [also known as: ordinary rubbing alcohol]
A lint-free cloth
A small, clean plastic baggie

*NOTE*

Modifying or overclocking your graphics card will void the warranty. And while I explain how to reverse the process, I do not encourage or condone fraudulent warranty claims against BFG or anybody else.

*CAUTION*

This process is pretty simple, but careless handling of your graphics card can result in impaired function or total destruction. Be careful and work slowly.

*CAUTION*

Beware of static electricity. Periodically touch the grounded frame of your computer to prevent zapping your card or destroying other computer hardware by accident. Also, don’t scuff your feet on the carpet or comb your hair during this procedure. This will not be a problem as long as you exercise due care.

I. Baseline Information

Before you install the new cooler, turn on your PC. We need to find out what temperatures your card runs at with the stock cooler to know if the NV Silencer 5 is working properly after you install it.

Right click on your desktop, select “nVidia analog [or digital] display.” This will bring up the nVidia control panel, then one of the options you can select is to view the temperature the card is running at.

Record the Core and Ambient temperatures you get when you turn on the computer. Move the temperature display to a corner of your desktop.

Next, download RTHDRIBL:

http://www.daionet.gr.jp/~masa/rthdribl/

Install it, and run it in a window. Move the window & stretch it as big as you can, while still being able to read your temperature display. Turn up the Multisamples setting in RTHDRIBL setting until your FPS drops to 25-35. Let it run for an hour and record the Core and Ambient temperatures while RTHDRIBL is still running. Then close RTHDRIBL, wait 15 minutes, and record the Core and Ambient temperatures.

At this point you should have recorded the following temperatures:

Core & ambient temperature when you turn on the PC
Core & ambient temperature while running RTHDRIBL
Core & ambient temperature 15 minutes after running RTHDRIBL

II. Installation

To begin, unplug your PC. Open the case of your PC and touch the metal frame to get rid of any static electricity on you. Remove the power connector from the BFG 6800 GT OC, unscrew the screw attaching the card to the PC’s frame, and remove the card. Don’t forget that with AGP cards you often have that little tab you have to push in at the end of the slot to unlock the card. If you force the card out of the slot, you may break it.

Next, take the card to a clean work area and set it down. Next, you need to remove the old heat sink/fan on the front of the card. This is actually very simple. On the back of the card is a black x-shaped bracket held on with 4 screws. These are those weird screws that are easily removed with either a Philips or a standard screwdriver. Unscrew them, set them aside, and take off the bracket. Unplug the fan from the card.

You should be able to pull off the heat sink/fan with minimal effort. It is NOT glued on, but there is a layer of white thermal paste between the chips and the bottom of the heat sink that may cause it to stick a bit. All you should have to do is to slowly, gently pull the board off the heat sink/fan. Don’t just yank it off hard or you could break something.

At this point, look at the board. You should see this nasty white goop on the GPU (the big middle chip) and the RAM (the other chips around the GPU). Luckily, this is pretty easy to clean off; isopropyl alcohol dissolves it easily. Use it with the lint-free cloth to clean everything off. The isopropyl alcohol is harmless stuff, so don’t worry about getting some on the board. Just don’t dunk the whole card in a bowl of it or something.

Next, follow the instructions in the link below for applying the AS5 thermal compound. You could use the thermal goop that comes with the NV Silencer 5, but the AS5 is generally considered to be a better thermal conductor. This is where the little plastic baggie comes into play, by the way.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm

Some things to be aware of:

The AS5 is stringy, nasty, goopy stuff. Apply it in small amounts at a time. Just apply it to the RAM chips and the GPU.

Don’t worry if you get some on the card. You can clean it off with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. AS5 isn’t an electrical conductor, but you still don’t want to leave blobs of it on your card.

You may need to use more on the RAM chips to get good contact with the Silencer.

Yes, one of those tiny $9.99 tubes of AS5 is plenty.

Follow the instructions for washing it off in the link above. You don’t want to leave silver particulate goop all over you.

Once the AS5 is on the RAM and GPU, install the NV Silencer 5. It should slide right on, just like the old heat sink/fan did. Then use the screws and rubber washers that came with the Silencer to screw it on. Key things to remember:

The rubber washers go on the backside of the card. Otherwise, the Silencer won’t make contact with the GPU and RAM that it is supposed to cool. The crappy instructions that come with the NV Silencer 5 illustrate the right way to do this.

Do NOT screw it on too tightly. Otherwise, the screws or even the board could break. Gradually tighten the screws until there is good contact between the Silencer and all the chips it is supposed to cool.

When in doubt, use more AS5 instead of risking over-tightening the screws. Generally the RAM needs a little more AS5 than the core.

There is a little bit of a balancing act here, since you want to use the minimum AS5 you can, but you want to make sure you have 100% contact. Hold the assembled card up to a bright light and look at it edge-on to make sure you are getting good contact on all the chips. You may want to *GENTLY* squeeze the Silencer against the board a couple of times to make sure the AS5 is properly set.

Finally, plug the little power cord for the NV Silencer 5’s fan into the card.

Re-installing the card is the same as removing it, but in reverse. The only thing to be careful of here is that the Silencer makes the card a lot bulkier, so you need to be more careful not to bang it into anything when putting it back in the AGP slot. Don’t forget to plug the power connector back into the card. Also, you will want to remove the metal bracket thing at the back of the PCI slot that the Silencer is taking up, so it can vent air out of the case like it was designed to.

Now close up your case, plug everything in, turn on your PC and see if it works. We aren’t done yet, however.

III. Testing the Silencer

Repeat the steps listed under Baseline Information, recording the new temperatures you are getting with the NV Silencer 5. Your idle temperatures (before & after running RTHDRIBL) will be a couple of degrees lower than stock. The key, however, is the core temperature under load. This should be about 10C cooler than the core temperature under load with the stock cooler. If it isn’t, you may need to re-seat the Silencer, or add a little more AS5, to make sure you are getting full contact between it and the GPU and RAM chips.

At this point you should have recorded:

Core & ambient temperature when you turn on the PC
Core & ambient temperature while running RTHDRIBL
Core & ambient temperature 15 minutes after running RTHDRIBL

Note that the AS5 with “set” after a certain number of hot/cold cycles, and will conduct heat better than after you first apply it. This will be worth about 1-2C cooler temperatures.

IV. Re-installing the old heat sink-fan

The stock HSF is inferior to the NV Silencer 5 in every respect, except that it looks cooler and is smaller. Should you want to re-install the old HSF, you can do so easily as long as you kept all the old parts, including the screws. You can even remove the AS5 and replace it with white thermal paste like BFG used if you wish. Thus, the NV Silencer 5 installation is 100% reversible in all respects.

V. Overclocking

With better cooling, you can easily overclock the BFG 6800 GT OC to Ultra speeds and beyond. The simplest way is to download Coolbits 2.0 and install it, this will unlock a variety of options in the nVidia control panel, to include overclocking. However, you overclock at your own risk, and doing so will void your warranty. Also bear in mind that heat isn’t the only problem associated with overclocking; at high clock speeds, your 6800 GT may simply draw too much power for your PC’s power supply to handle, making your system as a whole unstable. Also, because GTs run at 1.3 volts (vs. 1.4 volts for an Ultra), your maximum overclocked clock speed may not be as high as an Ultra, unless you modify the video card’s BIOS to increase the voltage, which can be risky.

Problem is, this guide is pretty useless - even for dummies. Almost anyone with a minimal IQ requirement can figure this all out....And if they are buying an aftermarket cooling solution, more then likely, they already know all this.
The HARD part is actually making the adjustments to make the card touch the NV5, on which your guide does not elaborate a whole lot. Not meaning this as a flame, more like constructive criticism.

++Here is what I learned from 6+ hours of making adjustments. More than likely, the part thats not making contact, is the one closest to the large cluster of ram modlules(i've read similar reports). Apply a thin layer of AC5 to this side, VERY thin, and a slightly thicker layer(by no means thick, still very thin) to the opposite side. Apply a very thin layer to the GPU as well....
^I had trouble making the GPU touch the heatsink, so I applied more AC5...well it made contact, but my temps were still like 60C at idle. So adding more AC5 to compesate for improper contact with the heatsinks won't help.

Anyways, since more than likely, only one side is not making contact, here is what you do. First screw all 4 bolts evenly, and tightly. Alternate so that one side doesn't get slanted. Get a flashlight, hold the card from the side, and see whats not making contact...more than likely its one side of the GPU. Open it all up, check the AC5 pattern on the copper...This is very useful to see what is not touching. If you are getting these stalagmite ^ ^ ^ patterns, you put too much AC5(been there done that). Wipe off the extra AC5, I told you to put a THIN layer


Next...we have now found which side is not touching (most likely the one closest to the ram clusters). This is how you solve it. Tighten that side FIRST(the one thats not touching), all the way. You want to make it a little slanted because tightening evenly will not work. Tighten it until its hard to compress the rubber stoppers. Tighten the other side now, also tight enough to compress the rubber. Don't worry about anything breaking unless you use like a motorized philips driver. Now hold it up to the flashlight, and tighten it some more. If this does not work, that means more than likely the manufacturing tolerances suck to the extreme either on the silencer or on the card itself. (Note, this is not an issue on the OEM fan because it uses seperate sinks for the core and the ram...not everything has to line up at the same level on the stock fan)

FINITO, enjoy your clock speeds I am currently running my GT at 415/1120 at 55idle, 71load This is better than stock clock speeds with the stock cooling

PS. One thing that I feel thats worth mentioning, is it takes longer(3-4 mins) for the card to cool all the way down to idle temps comapred to the stock cooling. Maybe since copper runs hotter, and is denser, thus takes longer to cool? I have not been albe to figure out if this is an issue for everyone or just for me....Please comment.

Here is what I learned from 6+ hours of making adjustments.

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I'd suggest that if it took you 6 hours of making adjustments to get an NV Silencer 5 to work right, you probably aren't qualified to critique what I've written.

CastleBravo said:

I'd suggest that if it took you 6 hours of making adjustments to get an NV Silencer 5 to work right, you probably aren't qualified to critique what I've written.

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Hah, nice, except that its due to manufacturing tolerances being crappy and not everything being level on the card...Since I didn't maufacture the card, I really cant take credit for that. Nice try though

Now now you two....be nice.

Although I got nothing out of the guide, I know that there ARE people out there that do appreciate having someone around here right a step by step like this.

I had read around ahead of time and heard/seen that the NV5's typically dont make very great contact with the ram and/or core. I simply applied a bit more AS5 then I usually do.....slid the card on, pressed it close with my hands and pulled it off. Once I saw that the entire memory chips/core were making contact I reseated the cooler, and screwed it down. I screwed down the 4 screws evenly at first, and then tightened them to the point where they wouldnt go any further....but without really wrenching on it.

My results are that my idle temp did go down a couple degrees....but my load temp did go down by about 9 or 10 degrees. This resulted in a 15MHz core increase with the same level of stability that I had before. Considering my memory was already running at 1.3GHz and I use Powerstrip to overclock I'm not able to check to see how much higher i can take the ram.....but this cooler DOES kick ass.

One thing to note with my clock speeds is that I moddified my BIOS to have the card running at 1.4v, as I couldnt hit close to this high on stock 1.3v. So, in addition to dealing with teh clock speeds the NV5 is also working with a bit of extra votlage....but it handles 1.4v just fine....I'm at 49C idle and 67C max load at 1.4v 450/1300.

That is an amazing OC....you have an UBER card. What are your temps when running the Lighting demo...I suspect if you run it for 15mins, they WILL reach 75C at that clock.

kdog said:

That is an amazing OC....you have an UBER card. What are your temps when running the Lighting demo...I suspect if you run it for 15mins, they WILL reach 75C at that clock.

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Those ARE my temps running rthdribl........I run it for about 10-15 minutes though because my temps stablizes by that point and actually doesn't move for the last 5 minutes. After I close rthdribl I let it sit for another 10 minutes and check it again.

Idle 49C / load 67C @ 450/1300 1.4v......I love my uber GT.

Is the nv silencer alot quieter than the stock cooling solution? or just minimal?

GoatMan said:

Is the nv silencer alot quieter than the stock cooling solution? or just minimal?

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a LOT quieter dude.....its not even close. Let me put it this way, I've got a 38dBA 120mm aluminum fan on my side panel, and when I boot up the fan spins up to full speed while the computer is posting....and I can hear the stock fan OVER the 120mm fan. Granted its never that loud when you're just using the computer.....but you wont hear a peep out of the Silencer.....its great.

Well I for one appreciate the guide. It will greatly help me when I get my 6800 GT and my silencer.

Agreed! If someone is going spending there time on something which might help others out, they should be commended. Good Work! I'm sure they guys who could only find fault in castlebravo's effort, probably looked for walk through of an sort. Good Work, thanks for your time and effort.

Black-Falcon said:

Well I for one appreciate the guide. It will greatly help me when I get my 6800 GT and my silencer.

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awesome guide man, i heard that the nv5 instructions weren't that good.

i also didn't know how i was supposed to clean off the thermal goop/artic silver 5.

this'll be very useful when i get an nv5 in the coming months, thanks castle.

Can't rememeber if I had given my thx as of yet......so thank you.

Not that I personally made any use of the guide....but I will agree that the instructions that came with my NV5 were VERY lacking....and i woudl ahve really appreciate this guide if I didn't already know what I was doing.

I installed the NV5 on my 6800GT the other day and my temp went from 62 idle to 67 idle so I know it isn't making contact correctly. I guess I need to check it out and reseat it.

Weekend project.

The NV5 really is one of the less complicated 3rd party cooling solutions out there. I mean 4 screws and your done. My first attemp at installing was a failure however. My temps were in the 70's. It was my own fault however because the screws were not tight enought nor did I have enough paste on it.

The 2nd attemp was golden. Right now I'm running 48C on idle and 62 on load. I've got my card flashed to 436/1.16 and she is running lean and mean.

I installed the NV5 on my 6800GT the other day and my temp went from 62 idle to 67 idle so I know it isn't making contact correctly. I guess I need to check it out and reseat it.

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That's the thing, the NV5 needs a good deal more thermal compound to make proper contact with the core/ram on your card. Once you've got the paste application down pat there's really nothing to it....as you don't have to put the cooler itself togethor.....as it was said before, 4 screws and you're done. Go slow and be carefull with the screws and get them as tight as you possibly can....so they won't go ANY tighter. The reason I saw be careful is because i was applying too much peasure once or twice and the screwdrive slipped and banged into the back of the card. Don't worry though, she's fine.

The 2nd attemp was golden. Right now I'm running 48C on idle and 62 on load. I've got my card flashed to 436/1.16 and she is running lean and mean.

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Clocks are a little lower then what I'm running, but the temps are quite close. The 6800's still do run quite warm (in comparison to the X800's) with the Silencer installed.....but it's cooler none-the-less. Unless someone has some far out custom cooling setup involving something else, I have no idea why you'd use any other aftermarket air cooler on these cards.

THe f*cking Arctic Cooling quality control is good for nothing, I got NV5 where one of the memory blocks was twice as high as the rest. As a result, there is a huge gap b/n the copper base and the core, and not all memory chips where touching the NV5. If I went the tightening route, I'd crashed a couple of memory modules. I am trying to exchange the stupid thing, the other way to sand down the stupid POS. So don't advise ppl to tighten up the screws, they can simply crash memory and/or the core.

TehQuick said:

THe f*cking Arctic Cooling quality control is good for nothing, I got NV5 where one of the memory blocks was twice as high as the rest. As a result, there is a huge gap b/n the copper base and the core, and not all memory chips where touching the NV5. If I went the tightening route, I'd crashed a couple of memory modules. I am trying to exchange the stupid thing, the other way to sand down the stupid POS. So don't advise ppl to tighten up the screws, they can simply crash memory and/or the core.

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Settle down guy, as long as common sense is used I wouldn't worry. What I mean by this is that before you screw anything down, slide teh cooler on, press it against the card fairly tightly, and take it off. If you see a full square mark of compound on the cooler in all areas its applied on the card then you're good to go, if not you can simply apply a tad more compound to the specific areas.....providing that your cooler itself (being uneven) isn't what's causing the gaps in the paste. Once you know that the compound and the card itself is making full contact and everythign is even I WOULD still advise that you tighten the screws down very tightly. Everytime I installed my Silencer during modding (a good half dozen times) I tightened the screws as tight as I possibly could, so that the screwdriver wouldn't budge at all. Some people might feel afraid to do this.....but as long as there's nothing physically wrong with your NV5 and you tighten the screws down evenly you won't have to worry. Tightening down one screw ALL the way and then doing another one is what can damage hardware....as you're applying an abnormally large amount of preasure on a certain side of the effected memory chips. Screw down all 4 screws a decent amount (so that they're starting to "rub" against the washers) and then go one at a time and tighten them all down evenly, a few turns at a time.

Sorry about that, just pissed off at arctic cooling for deliving such POS products. And you absolutely right - make sure that your NV5 base base is even and memory blocks on it are of the same height before tightening down screws, or u'll kill ur board. Considering the quality construction of NV5, I think everyone has some sort of deviations in that area. F*cking a$$holes let the quality go after the success of the VGA Silencers. Man I hate it when companies just ride on their reputation and skip on quality.

TehQuick said:

F*cking a$$holes let the quality go after the success of the VGA Silencers. Man I hate it when companies just ride on their reputation and skip on quality.

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Seriously bro, calm down and cut the attitude.....just because you had a bad Silencer doesn't mean that the "let the quality go" or are riding on their reputation.....geez. I can understand where you're coming from, but to openly state comments like that is being kind of ignorant.....as you know darn well that the company as a whole is doing quite well.....and they DO make good, quality products.

I dunno, tell me, why do you need extra compound to make good contact? besides i am not the only one... there were numerous reports of uneven surface on these new silencers, making bad contact with the videocard. Or those reports about air being pushed back into the case? Maybe ppl didn't post those things here, but there plenty of reports and complaints about the quality of nv5s at nvnews and madonion (futuremark now) forums.

I don't think there is anything made for computers that hasn't had a couple people bitch about it. Especially when it actually requires that they pay a little attention to what they are doing, and they don't want to admit the possibility that they made a mistake installing it.

Ok, so I ordered some arctic silver and it finally got delivered. Took off the white paste that I was using and replaced it with the AS. My temps when down 12c. I can now run my 6800GT @ 430mhz. Coolbits says that I can go as high as 447.

I don't think there is anything made for computers that hasn't had a couple people bitch about it. Especially when it actually requires that they pay a little attention to what they are doing, and they don't want to admit the possibility that they made a mistake installing it.

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That is all to true.

I dunno, tell me, why do you need extra compound to make good contact?

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It's usually the memory that needs extra compound, as the surface(s) on the NV5 are NOT completely even, and applying the standard, paper-thin coat of AS5 will typically NOT be enough. It is also true that a bit of air DOES get blown back into the case, this is due to the fact that the opening on the duct is poorly designed, and creates a lot of back preasure, which forces some of the airflow back through the cooler and into the case.

almostinsane1

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Obviously that kind of a temp drop is NOT from the Arctic Silver alone, as the compound itself isn't quite capable of thoes kind of temperature drops. It's nice to see that the installation of the cooler went better this time, as the temperature drop is more directly related to the fact that there is now enough compound on the cooler and it is making more/better contact. Obviously the AS5 is helping out, but the majority of the "cause" for the nice improvement is the fact that despite the NV5's poor build quality, it is now making proper contact with your core.

Well it was about the 10th time I've taken it off, reapplied the thermal grease, and checked the temps. With regular white paste I'd get from 62c-70c idle.

So you could be right but at least I'm done with that exercize.

almostinsane1 said:

Well it was about the 10th time I've taken it off, reapplied the thermal grease, and checked the temps. With regular white paste I'd get from 62c-70c idle.

So you could be right but at least I'm done with that exercize.

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Yeah man, I hear that....don't ya love working around $hit like that?

thanx. this will really help me. i have a BFG 6800GT OC right now running at 62C idle. i have the NV5, but i havent had the time to install it. and now that i know about the AS5, i can just wait for that to come in and finally find the time to put this thing together and of course overclock and flash the bios.

thank you! putting this in favorites

One kind of offtopic thing I just noticed is.....why is the thread actually called the BFG 6800GT OC version of the installation??? The card is laid out the exact same as any other GT out there, and while the newer cooler is different, it uses the same basic mounting methods. Because the removal of the BFG cooler is really no different from that of a reference GT, I just didn't understand why the thread is sposed to be specifically for that one card.

Thank you for your well written guide. I am waiting for BB to restock thier BFG 6800 GT so that I can pick one up.

Regarding the quality issues on the NV5. Is it worth the hassle to get it seated properly or are there any other coolers out there that would be a better choice for a noob?

Fred

Freeconn said:

Regarding the quality issues on the NV5. Is it worth the hassle to get it seated properly or are there any other coolers out there that would be a better choice for a noob?

Fred

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Not really a whole lot out there that fits the 6800's to tell you the truth, but if we're to use the X800's as an example.....there still isn't anything that I'd be comfortable recommending over the Silencer. The seating issue is only really a pain in the ass if you dont know about it ahead of time. I knew about it before I installed my first NV5 so i was ready....and had a perfect first install....no biggy.

i just got the NV5 for my XFX 6800GT and i think i fked up the install.

im getting 79/80º at full load (rthdribl @ full screen)
and like 60º idle.

i used arctic silver for the cpu and the stuff they supplied for the ram.

should i take it off, clean off the ram & gpu and redo it?
i'm pretty sure it's on tight and everythings contacting fine...

nice post

but 1 piece vid card coolers (gpu & mem) suckazz, period.
wth would you want all that gpu heat going into your ram! duh!

you want it quiet?
use vid card fan control software like EXPERTool, much cheaper too

actually, i'm not sure if the temp readings are off,
i just downloaded expertool and it says my gpu is at 41º...

ThugsRook said:

nice post

but 1 piece vid card coolers (gpu & mem) suckazz, period.
wth would you want all that gpu heat going into your ram! duh!

you want it quiet?
use vid card fan control software like EXPERTool, much cheaper too

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Wow, I have no idea how you expect to help anyone with a $hitty attitude like that, not to mention the fact that you really don't sound like you know what you're talking about. I'd like to go more "in depth" here, but I fear that it would be wasted time, as you're obviously not open to listening.....or hearing the truth about the NV5 for that matter.

Go back about your ways, I won't disturb you young one.

cool. Thread marked to find later.

I'm scared though Never modded a card at all....

cornelious0_0 said:

One kind of offtopic thing I just noticed is.....why is the thread actually called the BFG 6800GT OC version of the installation??? The card is laid out the exact same as any other GT out there, and while the newer cooler is different, it uses the same basic mounting methods. Because the removal of the BFG cooler is really no different from that of a reference GT, I just didn't understand why the thread is sposed to be specifically for that one card.

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Um, because that's the card that I did the install on.

Some of the coolers do, in fact, have different removal steps, BTW. Apparently some of the non-reference coolers are quite a pain in the ass.

this is a guide from dummies or for dummies?

i think if theres a picture guide will help a lot more...

just my 50cent... yo yo

CastleBravo said:

I don't think there is anything made for computers that hasn't had a couple people bitch about it. Especially when it actually requires that they pay a little attention to what they are doing, and they don't want to admit the possibility that they made a mistake installing it.

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Hey, no offense, but u have no grounds for making such generalizations. I have solid proof that the NV5 I received was defective and there was no way in hell it would work as intended without major modifications (like sanding down a couple of mms of solid copper). I know what I am doing. Chinese factory, to whom Arctic Cooling outsourced their manufacturing, don't. BTW, I got the unit replaced free of charge by the Arctic Cooling. I got an impression that this is not the first and not the last NV5 being replaced due to bad machinery.

TehQuick said:

Go screw urself, buddy

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Except you're far more out of line with that remark then he ever was....settle down and learn to take forum disagreements in stride, or you wont last long.

cornelious0_0 said:

Except you're far more out of line with that remark then he ever was....settle down and learn to take forum disagreements in stride, or you wont last long.

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Excuse me,where do I say that? And please, do not threaten me, OK?