21 Inch Trinitron - refurb yourself

C

Chewbacca

Weaksauce
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Dec 20, 2005
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The dell p1110 21 inch trinitron monitors can be easily found for under 60 dollars(craigslist is a good place to look). These things are so damn cheap because of a common problem found in almost all of them. Apparently a resistor in the CRT malfunctions (Of the three p1110's I have seen all 3 had the problem) and causes the picture to become VERY bright and washed out looking, even with the brightness turned all the way to 0. After performing the fix below and doing a sony screen restore via the on screen menu, these monitors are working like brand new. It only took about 30 minutes per monitor, mostly because getting the case off of the monitor can be a bitch, and cost roughly 1 dollar.

Anyways, heres a link to the fix.

http://www.hutzelman.com/home/hardware/mods/monitor/
 
Has anyone here performed this mod?

Perhaps someone can give me an idea of how risky an operation this would be for someone with virtually no soldering experience.

It seems like it should be relatively straight forward, as the contacts are spaced pretty far apart, and there doesn't seem to be too much room to blow up the monitor. It looks like it would be reverseable too.

And does anyone know if the mod really works?
 
opening a CRT up is risky business. touch the wrong thing and you die
 
Your pretty safe on that back circuit board. It's more scared of you than you are of it. That said, you don't want to be accidentally shorting anything back there just in case. Any further in than that, and yes.......one minute your working on your monitor........the next.........SHAZAAM!! They even make special tools with resistors in them to discharge the caps cause they hold big time voltage.

I've got a P1130 (21" Trinitron) built in December of 2004 and I wonder if it is the same? I would think they would have updated it by then and either gotten rid of the problem or at least gone through the bad run of resistors.
 
This can happen with ALL Trinitron monitors, although most common with the P1110. Bad resistors aren't the problem, its actually a bug/side effect of the color return/image restore option. Over time it tends to malfunction and pump too much voltage into the G2 resistor which in turn causes the overbrightness.
 
This fix is insanely easy. The hardest part is getting the case off, seriously. The soldering is very simple, I could have done it when I was 12.
 
PKFGimpy said:
And does anyone know if the mod really works?
Click to expand...
It's a commonly performed mod, and going by what i've read, it definitely works.

Supposedly a certain number of older trinitron monitors manufactured between 1999-2001 were affected (or something like that).
 
Deetox,

I have a Sony 19" CRT (CPD-G410R Manufactured in May '02) and it has the excessive brighness issue. If you say it is a bug/side effect, how do you fix it without taking it apart?
 
There is only one other way to fix it (which is actually the way a Sony technician would do it). You will need to build or buy an interface unit such as this,



One end plugs into a serial port on the back of your comp and the other end plugs into a 4 pin connection on the back of the monitor. What this does is allow you to use the Sony DAS (digital alignment software) to change the hidden factory settings stored in the monitors EEPROM (electrically erasable programmable read-only memory). One of the settings is for G2 resistor voltage, simply lowering a numeric value and then saving it to the EEPROM will fix the brightness.

I actually bought the interface unit myself and won an auction on Ebay for an FW900 that has "grey issues, does not get a true black". That sounds like the brightness issue to me so i'll probably be trying this fix as soon as the monitor arrives. (any day now)

Heres some useful links on the subject:
http://short-media.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19549&page=1&pp=20 <---- very long thread with tons of info and success stories using both the resistor mod and DAS fixes
http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/ <---- WinDAS guide (schematics for making the unit are there too)
http://geocities.com/emusicraft/ <---- i bought my interface unit from him, a bit pricy but i like how well made it looks.
 
Thanks for the info Deetox. So I was looking at the emusicaft site and it sounds like you buy the kit and send him the file that you retrieved from your monitor. He then fixes it and sends you back the fixed data for your monitor. If thats true, 35 bucks sounds like a real bargain to get my black levels up to par. Is that what you're going to do? By the way, nice CRT you won there. I wish I had that one.
 
I plan to try it myself at first, if i'm not 100% satisfied with the result i will email the guy and have him do it so i can compare.
 
Did the newer Trinitrons have this issue? I bought a brand new Sony/SGI GDM-5411 and I'm hoping it doesn't have this issue.
 
Well the GDM-5411 actually isn't that new of a model, its the same as a P1100 or G500. So chances are if P1110's and P1130's are getting it yours can too. But if its never been used i'm sure it'll be ok for awhile at least..
 
Deetox said:
Well the GDM-5411 actually isn't that new of a model, its the same as a P1100 or G500. So chances are if P1110's and P1130's are getting it yours can too. But if its never been used i'm sure it'll be ok for awhile at least..
Click to expand...

Crap, ok. If/when the brightness issue occurs I can use the DAS G2 voltage fix for the monitor and I wouldn't have to buy a new resistor or would a new resistor be required?

I may try to fix the issue before it even comes up if a new one would be required.

The link you showed to order the Dell interace unit, does it work on all trinitron monitors?
 
No you don't have to buy a new resistor, as i stated before this isn't a case of the resistor going bad or dieing. Soldering a new one simply resets the voltage back to an acceptable level, same as lowering the value with DAS.

And yes the interface unit works with all models.
 
Deetox said:
Well the GDM-5411 actually isn't that new of a model, its the same as a P1100 or G500..
Click to expand...
Are you sure about that(?) A lot of the specs i've dug up on the gdm-5411 have suggested otherwise (different maximum rez + different max refresh etc). Some websites refer to it having the "same chassis" as the G-500 but i'm not so sure that means the "same monitor".

Bop i'd suggest bookmarking the links, or copying a pasting the info for later reference. But if your monitor is not one of those affected then why fix something that isn't broke?
Buying, and holding onto, that sony interface unit may not be such a bad idea though. Imagine all the sony trinitron monitors you can fix with it...
 
Ya guess i was wrong, it actually looks closer to the F500R. Although it seems every site has different specs listed so its kinda hard to tell which ones are correct. Either way it appears to have been manufactured in the year 2000.
 
Thanks, I've had a G500 sitting in my parent's basement for a year with this exact problem, when I phoned my monitor repair guy he quoted $50 for the fix. I just never bothered to get it done because I already have 2 lcds

Anybody know where I can get these resistors in Canada (preferably in BC)? My local Radio shack only stocks up to 1m ohm, and I've never soldered before.
 
I got my screen in today, manufactured in 2000 (week 33).

Should I just wait till the screen craps out or should I just do the fix now?
 
Bop said:
I got my screen in today, manufactured in 2000 (week 33).

Should I just wait till the screen craps out or should I just do the fix now?
Click to expand...
Honestly i'd think twice about cough, "fixing" something that isn't broke. Who's to say what'll happen if you solder a resistor to a perfectly working monitor? Will the picture end up becoming too dark? Will you void any warranties? I'd recommend my previous advice: copying and pasting all the fix-related info to your hard drive and saving it (because the website may get taken down etc).

Now buying that little sony interface unit that deetox posted is a different story, that looks like a nifty item to have around. Ebay and craiglist is just filled with trinitrons that have the brightness issue (i've even seen some real cheap FW900's with some brightness/gray issue).

g'luck either way though, let us know how you like the gdm-5411.
 
SJetski71 said:
Honestly i'd think twice about cough, "fixing" something that isn't broke. Who's to say what'll happen if you solder a resistor to a perfectly working monitor? Will the picture end up becoming too dark? Will you void any warranties? I'd recommend my previous advice: copying and pasting all the fix-related info to your hard drive and saving it (because the website may get taken down etc).

Now buying that little sony interface unit that deetox posted is a different story, that looks like a nifty item to have around. Ebay and craiglist is just filled with trinitrons that have the brightness issue (i've even seen some real cheap FW900's with some brightness/gray issue).

g'luck either way though, let us know how you like the gdm-5411.
Click to expand...

I wasn't going to do the resistor replacement, I was just going to lower the voltage. I'm beginning to think it may be a good idea, as I have to set the brightness to 17-20 to get true correct black levels.

I noticed a divot on the screen... it really sticks out in lighter colors. I think I'm going to RMA this thing, a brand new monitor should not be scratched. Looks like a manufacturer defect on the glass. Nothing ever goes right... :(
 
My P1130 is working great. Takes about 15 minutes to "warm up" but once it does, the blacks are black and the colors to me are spectacular (more about that below). Brightness and contrast both at 50.

BUT

I never should have read that thread. Now I'm all worried about whether I should have it at 9500 or 6500 or whatever. 50 50 90 80 70 60...............AAAAARRRRRRRGGGGHHH.

Why lord WHY!!!! :confused: :confused: :confused:

Now I have to go obse...ahem....I mean read about color temperature.

I have been deprived all these years with an old Optiquest 19" that was too dark from the day I got it and now that I see one of these I realize that I was being deprived on color too. So I should be happy right??? No freaking way.....Now that I know that it could get even better...........I must find out how.
 
Bop said:
I wasn't going to do the resistor replacement, I was just going to lower the voltage. I'm beginning to think it may be a good idea, as I have to set the brightness to 17-20 to get true correct black levels.

I noticed a divot on the screen... it really sticks out in lighter colors. I think I'm going to RMA this thing, a brand new monitor should not be scratched. Looks like a manufacturer defect on the glass. Nothing ever goes right... :(
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear that dude, dinged up screens sure are a bummer. I recently bought a G520P that came with some chips on the anti glare coating, then i was sent a replacement and it too had chips along with some hairline scratches. I got a full refund and they let me keep the monitors but that was pretty lame, certainly not as lame as getting a new one with a damaged screen though. I'd definetly RMA it.

On a side note i'm sitting here waiting for my FW900 to arrive, shoulda been here 2 hours ago. :p
 
Deetox said:
Sorry to hear that dude, dinged up screens sure are a bummer. I recently bought a G520P that came with some chips on the anti glare coating, then i was sent a replacement and it too had chips along with some hairline scratches. I got a full refund and they let me keep the monitors but that was pretty lame, certainly not as lame as getting a new one with a damaged screen though. I'd definetly RMA it.

On a side note i'm sitting here waiting for my FW900 to arrive, shoulda been here 2 hours ago. :p
Click to expand...
Please let us know how the fix works out :)



Yea Bop, sorry to hear that, after all you've been through recently...
 
Only do this if you are suffering from an overbright screen that CANNOT get acceptable black levels by adjusting the brightness. If yours doesnt do that, dont do the fix. This is insanely easy to do... also if you cant find the right resistors just use two or three in a series to get close.
 
The place I ordered the monitor from wants picture of the divot, but I can't friggin get it to show up on the camera!

With a light background it is easily seen but the refresh of the screen makes it look black and it doesn't show up on camera. With the monitor off it is practically impossible to get a picture of a small divot, I can't get the reflection of it to show up.

I have to hope that they will still RMA it... :mad:
 
lol i think you jinxed me, i just fired up my FW900 and there are several little chips and a couple scratches. This after the seller ASSURED me there would be no damage to the screen whatsoever, i even asked them to look it over one last time before they sent it out. What a letdown, now i'll have to try and take pictures too, and of course my sister borrowed the digital camera and took it to Vegas the other day lol.

EDIT: ok i got WinDAS installed and running, was all ready to hook up the interface unit, pulled off the little tab on the back of the monitor only to find that the opening is too small for my fingers to fit and the 4 pin port is in there pretty deep so its impossible for me to plug it in. So now i'll have to yank the entire casing off to get at it, JOY! i think i'll wait to do that until after i talk to the seller about the damage.
 
Heh, looks like we all are having bad luck lately.

The place I ordered that screen from still hasn't replied to my response(their first email only took 30 mins for a respnse). I told them that I couldn't to get it to show up on my camera but I would still send pictures if they want me to. I sent another email but if they don't respond then they will be getting a polite, but slightly angry phonecall :mad: I probably should have called them in the first place...
 
In the spirit of "DIY" I bought myself some magnet wire today to build my own degaussing coil. I probably could have shelled out $40 for a pre-made one but what fun would that be? :)

Going to degauss everyone's crt tube with this thing, it ought to freshen the colors and picture right up, hopefully also my buddie's TV that he fubared with unshielded speakers :D

Now what to do with the spare 300' length that i don't need...
 
Damn nice find chewy! Hopefully I'll be able to try out the fix this weekend.
 
I decided to try connecting the interface unit again (this time with a light so i could see better) and after about 100 failed attempts i FINALLY managed to do it, no easy task since i could only fit one finger in there lol. Anywho i just got done with the DAS fix and it was a resounding success! Right now i have the brightness at 47 and blacks are lookin pretty much perfect. I may fiddle with it some more but i doubt i'll get it much better than this.

I also talked to the seller about the damaged screen. They don't have any FW900's left so i can't get a replacement but they offered to pick up the monitor and give me a full refund or give a discount and let me keep it. I chose the latter since i dread the thought of repacking this monster, that and i think i can probably live with it. Theres only 1 mark thats really noticeable and its in a spot where i don't see it too often. Other than that its still a spectacular monitor, especially now with the brightness fixed. :)
 
Wow.

I gotta start looking for a noob with a "broken" FW900...............mmwahahahahahahhahaha!
 
One weird thing, it seems doing this fix has broken the image restore option. If i run it the brightness gets reset back to where it was and i have to do the fix over again. Hmm.
 
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