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Well, if they don't have an LG panel OLED to compare-----its likely their comparison is whatever IPS or VA panel they were using before. And as I stated earlier in the thread, OLED will still look better, even in poor lighting conditions. Because the underlying panel still has per pixel lighting. With an IPS or VA, the underlying panel still has all the light bleed, glow, uniformity problems, etc. Like I said, go into Costco, OLED still look great in there, compared to most of the other screens there. Albeit LG panels in particular.And yet there are still people claiming that their particual units does not have this problem and has perfect blacks even in a bright room
You can get LG panels from monitor brands, with matte coatingsI would absolutely agree with that if you can always control your lighting or have very dark room C2 coating is amazing.
But reality is that some people can't do that. I also can't place my screens so the window is behind. Sometimes i play games in that living room with other family members doing different things, and can't force them to sit in darkness.
Maybe room is actually not that bright and that's why blacks don't look that bad compared to C2.
Basically QD-Oled is more flexible for me. I can use it in any lighting condition in this room. For C2 to avoid distracting reflections room has to be almost dark.
I still like this LG screen, but I will keep it in the bedroom for best experience.
Another observation I have is that on C2 color banding, and text clarity is worse and pink tint on WBE panel is kinda distracting when displaying full white screen.
Matt coating look disgusting. I hate that grainy look and vaseline-like patches of glareYou can get LG panels from monitor brands, with matte coatings
Direct light sources hitting a screen are going to pollute the screen surface regardless. Some (many?) people are using their screens in poor setups. It's just like audio or photography - you should set up your environment to suit your hardware/screen not the other way around imo.
Since traditionally desks have been laid out up against the wall like a bookshelf, or upright piano with sheet music against a wall - most setups act like a catcher's mitt for direct light source pollution from behind and overhead. Professional/reference monitors often come with a hood that covers the top and some of the sides, like some production cameras have. Light pollution (as well as allowing lighting conditions to change throughout the day) will alter/pollute how even a calibrated screen's values are seen and perceived.
The direct light source vectors hitting the matte or ag screens will blow out contrast and pale saturation, washing out areas of the screen they hit and are diffused onto. Allowing lighting conditions to change will also alter the way our eyes/brain perceives the screen's contrast and saturation so even their "calibrated" values will be lost to your eyes and brain. E.g. the screen will look more pale, weakly contrasted and undersaturated the brighter the room gets, and vice versa. Some keep several sets of settings so that they can switch between them for different times of the day or different room lighting conditions. So you are going to get compromised results if you don't design your viewing environment more optimally no matter what screen coating you have.
. . . . . . . . . .
From TFTcentral review of the PG42UQ:
.The PG42UQ features a more traditional monitor-like matte anti-glare coating, as opposed to a glossy panel coating like you’d find on TV’s including the LG C2. This does a very good job of reducing reflections and handling external light sources like windows and lamps and we noticed much better reflection handling (no surprise) than the LG C2. However this does mean that in some conditions the blacks do not look as deep or inky visually to the user. With this being an OLED panel, famous for its true blacks and amazing contrast ratio this could be considered a problem – are you “wasting” that by having an AG coating that reduces your perceived contrast?
In certain conditions blacks look a little more dark grey as the anti-reflective coating reflects some of the surrounding light back at you and it “dulls” the contrast a bit. The anti-glare coating means the image is not as clear and clean as a fully glossy coating. You don’t get this same effect if the coating is fully glossy as there’s no AG layer, but what you do get instead is more reflections. Don’t forget this same thing applies to all AG coated desktop monitors, you have the same impact on perceived black depth and contrast on IPS, TN Film and VA panels depending on your lighting conditions if there’s an AG coating used. You’d still get better relative blacks and contrast on the OLED (not to mention other benefits) compared with LCD technologies. They are all impacted in the same way by their coatings.
While they are concentrating on how it affects the blacks which is bad enough, it can also degrade the color saturation as it creates a haze.
Or course you are seeing this picture below on whatever screen surface you are using at the moment so it's more of a simulation.
. . . . . .
https://euro.dough.tech/blogs/news/matte-vs-glossy-gaming-monitors-technology-explained
subpixel photo the euro.dough.tech site referenced from TFTcentral:
I was looking for the HDR screen that looks great in dark room, but also is useable in average lighting(C2 isn't), and I think I found that screen for now. I'm sure they will do better in the future with screen coatings. For example people(even purist) are very happy with LG G3. Reflection handling is great, but apparently in brighter rooms blacks are deeper than the QD-Oled.It really depends on your priorities. What are you focusing on? A large screen (at least to your perspective) representing hdr film scenes, hdr gaming worlds virtually that you are trying to immerse yourself into as an experience or are you trying to just look at an animated diorama box in an insistent bright room full of light pollution, and in some cases noise and other distractions?
All the LG WOLEDs have pretty low SDR brightness, so they are unlikely to perform any better.I was looking for the HDR screen that looks great in dark room, but also is useable in average lighting(C2 isn't), and I think I found that screen for now.
Of course they are fine in average lighting, MLA panels seem to be noticeable better though than non MLA.All the LG WOLEDs have pretty low SDR brightness, so they are unlikely to perform any better.
For me the LG CX 48" was perfectly fine in "average lighting". Reflections only became an issue on very bright summer days because light from my balcony was reflecting off the wall behind me, and then onto the TV. LCDs honestly were just as problematic in this situation, the light just diffused differently rather than being pinsharp reflections.
If you consider 450 nits "low," then yes.All the LG WOLEDs have pretty low SDR brightness, so they are unlikely to perform any better.
For me the LG CX 48" was perfectly fine in "average lighting". Reflections only became an issue on very bright summer days because light from my balcony was reflecting off the wall behind me, and then onto the TV. LCDs honestly were just as problematic in this situation, the light just diffused differently rather than being pinsharp reflections.
Since when do LG WOLEDs have that high brightness in SDR?If you consider 450 nits "low," then yes.
When you turn Peak Brightness on outside of PC or Gaming mode.Since when do LG WOLEDs have that high brightness in SDR?
SDR is mastered for 120nits, so 450nits is more than enough for intended viewing.Since when do LG WOLEDs have that high brightness in SDR?
And those modes outside PC/Gaming mode you wouldn't want to use with a computer since the input lag gets horrible.When you turn Peak Brightness on outside of PC or Gaming mode.
And those modes outside PC/Gaming mode you wouldn't want to use with a computer since the input lag gets horrible.
Can confirm that the ABL kicks in quickly on a fullscreen white with those settings. It backs down to around 200 nits with peak brightness enabled.It probably does 450 nits up to a certain point but the full field brightness will still be limited to around 100 nits anyway. There's no way in hell it does 450 nits fullfield.
I have the 42 C2, when I was still running a 3090 I ran some games at 1440P and they still looked perfectly fine. OLED is just too good to let go and $899 is a good price.I notice Costco has the LG C3 42 inch on sale for $899. I don't think I'm going to end up liking it, and normally I wouldn't even try it (since it doesn't have a curve and it's 4k, which is going to be hard to drive), but since it's Costco I'm willing to give it a shot. A 90 day return policy will do that.
Is there just some "quick start" FAQ that I should follow as to how to get it up and running for PC use with my 4090?
Just have it plugged into your PC before turning it on for the first time. First time setup will automatically detect what kind of devices you have connected to each of the HDMI inputs and set them up correctly for you, including setting the input to "PC" for PC mode. Only thing I had to do on my C3 was enable G-SYNC compatibility manually using the "game" menu for G-SYNC to work.I notice Costco has the LG C3 42 inch on sale for $899. I don't think I'm going to end up liking it, and normally I wouldn't even try it (since it doesn't have a curve and it's 4k, which is going to be hard to drive), but since it's Costco I'm willing to give it a shot. A 90 day return policy will do that.
Is there just some "quick start" FAQ that I should follow as to how to get it up and running for PC use with my 4090?
Here are some links for ya:I notice Costco has the LG C3 42 inch on sale for $899. I don't think I'm going to end up liking it, and normally I wouldn't even try it (since it doesn't have a curve and it's 4k, which is going to be hard to drive), but since it's Costco I'm willing to give it a shot. A 90 day return policy will do that.
Is there just some "quick start" FAQ that I should follow as to how to get it up and running for PC use with my 4090?
Here are some links for ya:
https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...ingpc_monitor_recommended_settings/?rdt=57603
If you prefer a video walking you through:
https://tftcentral.co.uk/videos/guide-lg-c3-oled-best-settings-for-pc
My experience with my CX was not like that of Armenius. I had to adjust several things in order to get the full capabilities out of it. I had to set the PC input on top of a few other things - maybe it's changed since the CX? I haven't used my 42C2 with a computer yet as it's pulling bedroom duty.
Wasn't hard and probably only took 10m, but I definitely remember having to adjust several bits and bobs in the TV menu and NVCP.
I have the 42 C2, when I was still running a 3090 I ran some games at 1440P and they still looked perfectly fine. OLED is just too good to let go and $899 is a good price.
Just have it plugged into your PC before turning it on for the first time. First time setup will automatically detect what kind of devices you have connected to each of the HDMI inputs and set them up correctly for you, including setting the input to "PC" for PC mode. Only thing I had to do on my C3 was enable G-SYNC compatibility manually using the "game" menu for G-SYNC to work.
Here are some links for ya:
https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...ingpc_monitor_recommended_settings/?rdt=57603
If you prefer a video walking you through:
https://tftcentral.co.uk/videos/guide-lg-c3-oled-best-settings-for-pc
My experience with my CX was not like that of Armenius. I had to adjust several things in order to get the full capabilities out of it. I had to set the PC input on top of a few other things - maybe it's changed since the CX? I haven't used my 42C2 with a computer yet as it's pulling bedroom duty.
Wasn't hard and probably only took 10m, but I definitely remember having to adjust several bits and bobs in the TV menu and NVCP.
Weaknesses of LG WOLED relative to Samsung QD-OLED:
-Lower color gamut: 75% vs 90% Rec.2020
-Assess for dead pixels by looking at fullscreen colors: https://www.eizo.be/monitor-test/
--Dead pixels frequently develop over time. Consider purchasing a 3 to 5- year protection plan (such as BestBuy GeekSquad) to protect against dead pixels or burn-in. Read terms carefully.
-Protect panel from temporary image retention and burn-in by using settings provided in this guide and common sense best practices (e.g. don't leave static images on screen, etc).
It only has HDMI inputs. An ultra high speed cable that is no longer than 3 meters is needed to get the best quality signal at high bandwidth usage. You can try what you have, but if you can't set the refresh rate to 120 Hz at 4K with HDR without issue then you need a new cable.So it requires an HDMI cable? I hope whatever it comes with is long enough, or I just happen to have a compatible one sitting around. Most of my high end cables are DP.
Don't worry about that Reddit post. That spreadsheet contains a whole lot of nothing to worry about along with wrong information. Just watch the TFT Central review and/or look at the Rtings review. If I'm not mistaken the UI experience is the same between the C2 and C3.Thanks a lot for this. I'm reading the spreadsheet, and noticed two things:
I looked at the RTings review, and they said it has wide gamut, though. I'm a bit confused about this.
This also has me a bit worried. Costco supposedly extends the warranty to 5 years or something, but I have no idea what their terms are for that...
Be sure you do actually have a nice HDMI cable before arrival. I tried to use my old Monoprice (HIGHSPEED) HDMI cable and would constantly get blinks on screen. I ordered some inexpensive 8K cable off Amazon and it has been perfect.Well, I had to order one online since it's not in stock at the store. I put in a little extra for express shipping since otherwise it would take 11 days to get here which is kind of ridiculous. What's weird is they charged my credit card and then I saw a refund for most of it on my credit card afterwards. But the order still looks fine and says it's in progress. I'm kind of confused. The 5 year warranty extension is offered by Allstate. I'm not sure how good they are...
Again, not expecting to like it over my current stacked 34 inch ultrawide setup, but we'll see I guess.
It only has HDMI inputs. An ultra high speed cable that is no longer than 3 meters is needed to get the best quality signal at high bandwidth usage. You can try what you have, but if you can't set the refresh rate to 120 Hz at 4K with HDR without issue then you need a new cable.
Be sure you do actually have a nice HDMI cable before arrival. I tried to use my old Monoprice (HIGHSPEED) HDMI cable and would constantly get blinks on screen. I ordered some inexpensive 8K cable off Amazon and it has been perfect.
10' should be fine. HDMI says signal integrity isn't guaranteed past that length.I'm going to have to order the 10 foot version of it, since it looks like the ports are on the left side. I hope it still works fine over the 6 foot version.
4K 120 Hz HDR will demand the most bandwidth from this TV. That is why I mentioned it in my previous post about checking if your cable works.My DP cables are Club3D. I'll see if this cheaper 10 foot cable works for now. If not, I'll swap it for a Club3D. How do you "stress test" cable bandwidth? Just run stuff at 120Hz?
MFR
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Works great at 4K 120Hz
Reviewed in the United States on April 5, 2022
Style: Fiber optic HDMI 2.1 cableSize: Certified 50ft 8K
THis cable lets me remotely use my gaming PC on my Sony TV from 50' away. Syncs fine at 4K/120Hz with HDR. I tried a couple of different fiber optic cables before this (one cheaper and one much more expensive), but despite claiming 4K120 support, they would not sync with my TV. Ordered this cable and it worked right away.
4K 120 Hz HDR will demand the most bandwidth from this TV. That is why I mentioned it in my previous post about checking if your cable works.
It increases the brightness of the bright spots on the screen, and that is the whole point of HDR. HDR is only for consuming entertainment media like games and movies, so it's not something you'd be using with desktop apps.I see. I've never actually used HDR. My understanding is that it greatly increases brightness as a side effect, and many of my monitors are already near minimum brightness, to reduce eye strain. I guess I'll try HDR just to stress test it, but I hope this TV takes to being at a very low brightness level gracefully.
So I guess we won't be getting that 240hz 42" 16:9 panel we heard about at the beginning of the year. LG just released their scheduling for CES and there is no mention of it...
https://wccftech.com/lg-teases-2024-oled-ultragear-gaming-monitors-switch-480hz-fhd-240hz-uhd-modes/
Its seems like most sources are indicating that most of the new OLED products won't be available until at least Q2. And maybe even later.
TFT Central said that Dell may surprise with an early release, as they did previously.
And LG themselves, being the source of panels, could have something new out relatively sooner. If I had to guess, I would say that would be a new 27 inch/16:9. Because its such a popular size, and their current one is one of the least bright.