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Awwww shucks! I was really gonna go with optimum online with the boost (30mb/5mb) but when i entered my zipcode on their site, it said it was unavailable. :[ Zip is 07305 >.> I mean i live in the city, i dont get why FiOS or any other big companies wont set up lines in here.

@ Sparky. What's the down/up of the normal internet?

Dang, that's some stable connection I say! How much does the regular RR cost? And what's the DStream/UStream?

@omega What's your current downstream/upstream? And how much do you pay a month? Oh and you don't have to get their phone right?

So if switch to comcast, I'd only have to pay the 29.99 a month for 6 months right? I wont have to pay for the cabel for the tv right?

Thanks for the input guys. FiOS is currently still not available in NJ. (this was my first choice) Comcast was my 2nd but it requires you to have their cable box which in terms would need to pay for the cable service too. I did a bit of research and found Roadrunner/Time warner by accident...

Well, ever since i've built a new PC, I've been getting the sense that my internet connection greatly holds me back by a few miles. I'm currently only using Verizon DSL @ 758kbps. I know, it's pretty sad. Not only that, it also disconnects everyphone call even though every phone jack that has a...

I don't think i installed any software or drivers recently. Would it help if i posted my startup and services list?

The loading bar only takes about 5-10 seconds to load then it's the black screen after that takes long. Then the login screen comes up and i log in and it's another wait until the OS is fully loaded :[

Few days ago, my OS just out of no where took forever to boot up. It takes atleast 5-10 minutes to fully boot up. But once it's fully booted up, i don't notice any problems at all. It's performing how it should. It's only the boot ups giving me pains.

I managed to fix the problem. I don't know how exactly but i did a couple of things. Uninstall all my drivers including MB chipsets. Reinstalled everything with the latest drivers. Disabled one GPU Reinstalled Graphics Drivers Re-enabled. Disabled the other one. Re-enabled AND BAM...

FPS. I couldnt care less about 3DMark. What i care about is the performance i get when playing games.

Can anyone help out?

Ultra 800W PSU. Yes i did upgrade to the latest drivers. I'm playing at 1680 x 1050. Crysis, Far Cry 2, MMO (WoW, 2 Moons, etc) - every game is slower than a single 9800 when in SLI And SLI is configured.

Well after a couple of months enjoying the huge boost i got from getting a 9800 GTX, i finally decided to buy another one and run them in SLI. I would think i'd at least gain a noticeable increase in speed, but that wasnt the case. My Single 9800GTX performed twice as fas (in terms of frames)...

Air from the outside to the rad would give better temperature but gives off warm air in the system itself. Air from the inside to the rad would give a higher temperature but will keep warm air off the system. It's basically your preferences. But if i was the one modding (which I'm no) i'd...

This is project PBNOTBFSCCACMN :D

Haven't seen any radiator of that sort before. It seems like it doesnt have enough fins to cool hot water. But maybe the size of that monster will compensate for that :D

Well, there's this LED that stays lit if the PSU is on stanby. It's a bright blue LED on the xfx 790i. So i turn the switch off :[ I'll definitely recheck my bios even if i checked before for that option. i mightve missed something.

Well like the title states, my PSU automatically powers on my PC when i turn on the switch at the back of the PSU. It's not really a problem but i like pressing the power on button :[. The PSU is an ULTRA 750W power supply.

I'm planning on finally moving on with water cooling after years of playing it on the safe side with air cooling. I've read a lot of guides and information about water cooling but i may still come in short my knowledge on today's water cooling parts. I've decided to not go with the pre-built...

Just make sure you dont eve flash the bios on windows. Always use floppy disks or burn it on a cd with a burning tool (the windows one doesnt work)

The thread starter didnt say anything about modding. So I based my facts on what he wanted to know. And to mr im so smart to even know that this forum is the "CASES and CASE Modding" section. Meaning people may just be wanting information and feedbacks about certain cases with no modding...

No. Just no. I previously owned one. I'll list the good things and the bad things about it. [Good] - It looks good even with all the visible wires. [Bad] - Fragile. (Mine had a had a crack at the buttom for some unknown reason) - Drive Bays and HDD are a pain. You need to screw them...

From the looks of it, i think he's only applying the weight of the buffer itself.

Thanks for all the information. So far, what i've gathered is that i'll be doing a lot of sanding and smoothing out the surface. I've got one problem with the NXZT BlackLine's face plate and removable back plate. It's made out of plastic. I dont think it would be smart to sand plastic. But...

can you show me the results of yours? i'm also a bit confused in the primer,sand, bondo thing. isnt primer a paint? if so, wouldnt sanding just scrape it off again? And what kind of thing do you use to clear coat something?

Hey guys. I was wondering what kind of paint i would use in order to get a glossy finish. I'm planning on painting my NXZT Blackline case with a glossy white paint. like this it'd be nice as well if someone can fill me in on the proper procedures of painting and the things needed...