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Water with no minerals will flush out the ones you've got - that's hardly ideal. If RO doesn't remove minerals [like the ones at grocery store {assuming whoever said it is right{] it should be fine for drinking that is not for LCing. Generally, water that's pure enough to be put in WC will...

Don't paint it, worn out hardware looks cool :)

Proven wrong, tubing's got close to no influence on flow and therefore temperatures. If his temps are bad no matter the heatload [OC vs. stock] it would suggest bad IHS-waterblock contact more than anythging else... If it was all about insufficient rads he'd notice a difference when lowering...

Layout looks good but why on Earth would you use this top-res? Forcing air bubbles into the pump doesn't sound like a good idea...

The other possibility would be going back in time and spending 5 more minutes thinking about loop order and ease of maintenance but yeah, shaking your case around is a close second :cool:

This Wb is just ... ugh! Changing it to pretty much any other would help. What pump rad are you using now? Btw. Passive? It doesn't really work for most radiators as they were all designed to work with some kind of fans... Even 700-800 rpm Yates would help you drop temps a lot.

You're running F@H on 3 PCs and can't figure out how to cut electricity bills? How about not running F@H? -.- Keeping PCs on idle instead of full load will drop power use about 50%...

You "upgraded" to SilentX? Looks like someone got ripped ~.~ Anyway, if you noticed lower temps with stronger fans [I assume the ambient temp was the same, right? Also, give us some LOAD temps, they're what matter] it means the radiator is bottlenecking your cooling -> get a bigger one/add...

You mean having GPU before CPU in WC loop? Not much harm, close to none actually.

Gives me some time to complete previous 2 games. Or at least the first one knowig how much 2 sucked :mad:

While we're on the subject, how long can SATA cable be? I've seen some 60 cm ones but is this the limit? Longer cables would help me separate HDD noises form the rest of the PC [for testing purposes].

Spending $5 is one thing, spending some hours with Penumbra is another... I've recently played the Black Plague and it'd be hard to recommend it :S The physics are nice but VERY often these are just scripts. The story is not the strongest part of the game either :/

A hint for this specific CPU OC is: Start with FSB of ~450 and 7x multi - never seen a E6550 that couldn't do that - and progress with steps of 10 MHz [of FSB]. Should save you some time [that I've wasted...]

Picture 6/18 from that site... $800 case that's not even straight :D

Add some pictures so we can see what you've got now - it'd be much easier for everyone this way. 1. I don't think it would work. The most effective way to improve temps would be to make a air-duct leading from some 120mm fan to the intake of your card. If you've got 38mm fans all the better...

You take that back!! [rage] ;) I'd say Q3 engine, it can run on pretty much any PC and even after all these years it still looks acceptable on modern machines.

If you only need them to do 1000 MHz 5-5-5-15 [so you can use 500 FSB ang get 3,5GHz] pretty much any would do. I'm using OCZ SLI-ready [2x1GB tho'] And they clock rather well, come with a black HS, and do 1200 MHz 5-5-5-10 at only ~2.15V. The only possible problem is that I've heared...

Water cooling with rad submerged in icy water :confused:

I cbb to go to Dell's site so could you tell me if sidepanels are made of alu? If so how thick they are and how much do they weight? PS. Internal design is not impressive, big mess of cables and erm.. some stuff I can't even identify ~.~

Wasn't that already posted? Anyways, 2MHz is impressive for a mess of wires that it is :D

Only the things you've had there ;)

If you suspect RAM why won't you try 2,1V to see if it's stable then? Voltage is often solution to all your problems [and a cause for a whole lot of new ones :D]

Star Wars: Jedi Outcast 2 :> It might not have Crysis-like graphics but it's still great.

Another recommendation for Kaze Master here. The 5,25" allows you to controll 4 fans, looks good, the display is perfectly readable from any angle/in any lightning and yet it doesn't burn your retinas out like LEDs [ex. the ones used in Stacker 830 for Power and HDD activity]. It puts 1A per...

4 AA batteries on my ancient keyboard [really, one of Logitech's first wireless] lasts for av. of 6 months... Most non-gaming mice can live off a single AA for over a month too.

Deus Ex: Invisible War - seems like few people like it ~.~

No need to add a second pump to the loop - rads add close to no resistance. Also, you don't have to put it in between CPU and GPU blocks - it makes close to no difference as long as flow is decent [and your will be - even after adding second rad].

Sounds more like condensation -> Boom! :d Running two core CPU and a relatively cool card I'll be safe even if temps reach 45*C - and they won't.

Answers your Q and many other :) Ta-dah!

Assuming you've just bought these parts you should definitely clean them. The radiator is usually the dirtiest one. Running hot water through it should be enough [hot tap water will do, no need to waste time boiling distilled]. Just install barbs and ~10 cm piece of tubing and stick it in the...

Pump failures are extremely rare - especially if you get a decent one like Laing D5 [aka Swiftech MCP655] or Laing DDC [aka Swiftech MCP355] or the one that is built into the Swiftech block [basically a MCP355 "insides"]. Their MTBF is 50000 hours [over 5 years 24/7]. In the worst case your...

184 - after a day of drinking R20 energy drink only :d I've got a feeling I won't sleep much tonight...

The fact that switching fans off didn't affect your idle temps ir rather normal. The most difference I notice IDLE is 3*C and I only have one radiator. Run some Prime and see how much of a difference it makes then. The only plausible explanation I can think of is bad contact on CPU-block. It...

Gothic 2 - 4x or more... - first I got it with some magazine - forgot about it and bought a "cheap edition" one - next was a "launch-looking" edition that turned out to come from a magazine >.> - last one is the actual launch edition in a nice big box :) I've done the same with other games...

If you just want modular, sure why not. Getting modular in order to get 600-750W PSU is pointless for your rig.

There you go: Wiki's definition of SARCASM

Are you sure that with this size you'll need pipes with FINS? I mean, they're huge and there are only 4 of them, that doesn't look like good heat dissipation design :S While we're at the size of this thing, don't you think you'd get better temps using regular copper tubing instead of alu? I...

Assuming IP35's got the same PCB layout as IP35-e you'll have hard time finding a heatsink for PWM... I've checked ThermalRight, Zalman and pretty much any company that's advertising on the net and none seems to be making it :/ The best [and only] solution I can think of is finding someone who'd...

Whaa!? At least 1200W... Never trust BIOS readings of voltages. If you really want to know how your PSU is doing get a multimeter... As for the OC, try upping MCH volts a bit.

Having SpeedStep on doesn't hurt performance [maybe if you get ridiculously anal about it...]. If you want to see your actual OC run something while looking at CPU-Z's window. Pime95/Intel TAT/OCCT or any benchmarking/CPU stressing tool will do.