I've got a UAP-AC-Pro and just picked up a US-8-60W switch for my structured media center rewire. So far the US-8 has been great, and eliminates the need for the power injector for the UAP. The US-8-60W is also managed by the Unifi Controller, so easy admin and updates.
If you're using it for a baby monitor, you might want to pay attention to any delay due to encoding. I have a Unifi UVC and it had a good 30 sec. lag when viewing with the android app.
I haven't used them in a commercial setting, but I did order one (UVC) to play around with at home. I also haven't messed with their NVR software yet. The camera itself has pretty good quality (both build quality and video quality), though I don't have much to compare it with. One thing to...
Get a router that has good routing/firewall capabilities, turn off the built-in wifi if it has it and add a couple of Unifi UAP's, the original style. At $70 bucks a pop, they can't be beat. And, if the new AC Unifi's turn out to be solid products, the new AC Pro uses the same mount as the...
Don't do this. Adding a Unifi AP will be equivalent in price and much more stable in performance. Standard UAP's are $70 on Amazon and include the power injector. This is the easiest way to do what you need.
First, you know your buddy has to agree for the utility to have the capability, right? He probably gets a lower rate for allowing the utility to curtail his usage in times of high demand.
Second, adding generation and transmission capacity increases the rate base, thus costing you more...
I've got Netgear FS and GS switches (metal cases) that are at least 5 years old and going strong. The OP's that was hot enough to fry eggs was either a defect or not ventilated properly. As other's have said, if it's that critical, spend the money and go with the enterprise level products. If...
I'm not TeeJay, but I do have that StarTech rack at home and have been very pleased with it. Mine looks like it might be a slightly older vintage though. Mine has square holes directly on the posts, not recessed like TeeJay's. Couldn't be happier with it, and pretty much anything else I've...
Welcome to the fiber jungle, we've got fun and games...
Glad you got it sorted. I run into this confusion and poor documentation often with fiber in plants and electrical substations.
Mode conditioning patch cables are used for connecting single-mode optics (such as 1000LX) to a multi-mode fiber system. If your installed fiber (connected to the back of the patch panel) is multi-mode, you shouldn't have yellow (single-mode) patch cables connected to the front.
Edit: Keep in...
First, it's 62.5um, not mm. That refers the the size of the fiber core, thus mm is an unreasonable dimension. 62.5um and 50um fiber are multi-mode. 1000BASE-LX uses single-mode fiber, thus not a match to your installed fiber. 1000BASE-SX is the standard for gigabit over multi-mode fiber and...
Probably the best you can do for residential protection is a whole home surge suppressor on your main panel. That would hopefully shunt the surge to ground before affects any of the other circuits. The other common thing you can do is check that your ground connection is solid, i.e. tight...
If you look a the picture the OP posted, where the black jacket ends you can see the aramid yarn fibers that compose the strength member in the cable. It looks like it's ADSS cable (All Dielectric Self Supporting). Pretty typical for fiber runs overhead on poles.
First thing I'd do is check the smart info on them. My first WHS drives are the WD10EACS and they are starting to die off now. Mine have 35,000+ hours on them. If these were in an IT environment and running 24/7 they probably have that much if not more.
Anything PCIe device can run in any PCIe slot, just depends on how many lanes it requires for full bandwidth. x16 slots are not limited to video cards.
If anybody is looking for another way to power the HP expander, I recently ran across this and am using it to power my expander without costing me a motherboard slot.
http://www.hwtools.net/Adapter/PE4L.html
If anybody is looking for another way to power the HP expander, I recently ran across this and am using it to power my expander without costing me a motherboard slot.
http://www.hwtools.net/Adapter/PE4L.html
Is this a violation of your ISP terms of service? I would sure be paying attention to that at some point.
If your request is based on the principle of the matter, more power to you. But if your trying to cover up some illegal activity, this thread will probably shut down fairly soon, as it's...
Not sure what the hell you're talking about. One WAN port, one LAN port, one DMZ. That covers a very large portion of routers right there. Maybe not at the consumer level, but that's not what these are designed for.
This is totally subjective. Now who's trying to pick a fight...
Frankly, I don't care what Apple does with their products. They lost me as a customer a long time ago with their close-minded mentally and elitism.
Back on-topic, I'm fine with a dongle as long as I have enough...
I second YeOldeStonecat's post. I've got my Untangle box sitting behind my Uverse (2wire) 3801HGV. The Untangle box is in DMZ mode in the 2wire config and gets a public IP. I can even access the 2wire config from behind my Untangle box.
Not all split-loom has holes in it. I just installed some high-temp loom in a kit car last week that is solid except for the split itself. Maybe you're thinking of nylon mesh sleeving?
The Netgear has a metal enclosure with decent mounting holes, while the Fry's model appears to be plastic. The performance difference is probably negligible, but the metal case would be enough to push me to the Netgear. I've got several of this line of Netgear switches and haven't had any trouble.
Gotta agree with the majority here, my SSD experience has been almost flawless. I've even got my WHS running a Intel G1 with no issues. So explain your problems and let us help you or keep quiet.
It seems that there was a copy and paste error on the 100V Load Testing Results. The table has the same values as the 120V Load Testing and is still labeled as 120V input.