Now it's my Turn (MCP655/Storm Rev.2/Maze4/BIX Single) @ 7/16 Tubing

X

xXxDieselxXx

Gawd
Joined
Sep 1, 2004
Messages
763
Well Guys,

Wish me luck.... here is my first WC Loop after many years of customized air cooling.

The Package, Thanks Petra, excellent service I even got a pen :D

wholepackage9aj.jpg


A closer view of the Black Ice Extreme 120mm Radiator from Petra's. I love the rad it's very nice.. striking nice. I will proceed doing some Scrubbing Bubble cleaning as I did notice was dirty inside with white dust.

radprofile5ov.jpg


Here something that got me a little worried about how hard will this radiator ask for airflow... so far it seems like any 120mm fan will do just fine. See by yourself.. I tried to take a picture where you could see through the rad.

radcthrough4da.jpg


More to come... now time to do some cleanup and put this baby together also need to do some modding... I have to make a 120mm blow hole on top of the case.. I'm planning on putting a fan inside the case on top pulling fresh air from outside.
 
Should have went with a bigger radiator, I have a dual 120mm rad, works great with CPU and GPU block.

You know, just incase :)
 
You'll be fine with the single. I run a single BIX on a 6800GT and FX-55 loop.
 
Borgschulze said:
Should have went with a bigger radiator, I have a dual 120mm rad, works great with CPU and GPU block.

You know, just incase :)
Click to expand...

Well I'm a little bit out of space and decided will do it inside case.. so I'm biting the bullet with the single extreme radiator which have been told will perform same or better than a double BIP ;)

Next time I'll buy a better case for WC.

>>> Update <<<

Breaking news...! Scrubbing Bubbles is 7/16 compatible
:D

I decided to use some tubing pieces to flush the rad with regular water and saw lot of white stuff coming out.. then proceeded to use 7/16 Scrubbing Bubbles until foam come out from one barb to the other one ... LOL I know I'm crazy...
flushingrad3ql.jpg
 
stormshadow said:
whoa... that picture kinda scares me...
Click to expand...

LMAO..! Well guys I wish I had a snake camera but the rad looks darn nice clean and shiny inside all copper... no more white dusty dust.. :p

Good... somehow I didn't want to go the vinegar way ... this is not a salad well... my cables right now look like that :eek:

Now this is scary ;)

flushingm41sn.jpg
 
Words from a nOOb... I can really tell now what restriction is... as I was holding the one side of the hose to push water through from the water tap I could not feel any pressure or resistance while flushing the Maze 4 block but when I flushed the Storm rev2 block I could notice right away a world of difference ... water was leaking all over the sink :D as I was trying to plug all the leaks from my hand and the water tap :D
 
try not to use tap water...
after you use your bubble scrub or w/e, start using distilled water.

this is what i did - buy a big 2+ gallon distilled water dispenser thingy (the ones that have a handle on top and a spiggot on the side)... lol spiggot.
I think mine was Arrowhead.

then punch a hole into and run tubing to the pump and let the water go through the whole loop using all two gallons of distilled and flush your system.

not only would that be a good flush but it's a good start to leak testing...

once you're through about 3/4 of the container of water, put a return tube back into the water container (completing the loop) and let that cycle for 24 hours.
 
do you absolutely need to clean the inside of the blocks? Its not good to go out of the package? (still waiting for conroe before ordering my first setup)
 
Be careful and read the back of the can. I read that it states "do not use on brass"! Also don't flush the delrin with vinegar, just distilled water.
 
stormshadow said:
try not to use tap water...
after you use your bubble scrub or w/e, start using distilled water.

this is what i did - buy a big 2+ gallon distilled water dispenser thingy (the ones that have a handle on top and a spiggot on the side)... lol spiggot.
I think mine was Arrowhead.

then punch a hole into and run tubing to the pump and let the water go through the whole loop using all two gallons of distilled and flush your system.

not only would that be a good flush but it's a good start to leak testing...

once you're through about 3/4 of the container of water, put a return tube back into the water container (completing the loop) and let that cycle for 24 hours.
Click to expand...

Good call thanks for the tip, and Yes I just wanted to use tap water to do a general clean up as I wanted to take lots of junk and plastic shavings I saw in the blocks. Then I will do what you told me.. I will do a Distilled water flush to finish the clean up and start the real deal plus leak test. ;) Thank You... I'm open for inputs..

chickenselects said:
do you absolutely need to clean the inside of the blocks? Its not good to go out of the package? (still waiting for conroe before ordering my first setup)
Click to expand...


I don't know if you have to but when I saw all the dust and plastic shaving inside the blocks I decided to do a clean up before it get stuck inside the jet holes. Again I'm a WC nOOb but I kind researched for months readind every post of this great forum
:D

SiGfever said:
Be careful and read the back of the can. I read that it states "do not use on brass"! Also don't flush the delrin with vinegar, just distilled water.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up but I have worked with Scrubbing Bubbles in other home projects including brass and copper plumbing and it works like a charm.... just don't exceed more than 5 mins... just rinse it pretty good after few minutes.
 
Oh Right... I wanted the 120mm Blow Hole on top of the case for the rad and here I have it.

The case is an Antec TX1050B

Dremel time...
dremeltime5mh.jpg


Easier than what I thought
blowhole9aw.jpg


Here I know it's not a fancy grill but I found it in a local store for $4 with a filter which it comes handy for dust.

fandone4rp.jpg


And here is the rad finally mounted...
montrad7tg.jpg
 
so for your fan/radiator, are you planning to suck the air into the case (down) or push the air out of the case (up)?
 
yea - i figured that... hmmm...

i'd personally rather see that hole used as a blowhole....

hot air rises etc.

switch the radiator and fan and use it as a blowhole imo. Plus, he won't have to use that SOS pad dishwashing sponge as a filter :p

but i guess if getting outside air through the radiator is the main goal... that'll work.
 
You probably already know this but.... those foam-element fan filters totally kill airflow (though, they do work very well for filtering out dust and junk...which is why they kill airflow :rolleyes: ). Just thought I'd throw that out there...

Anyway, looking pretty good so far... oh, and I'm glad you like the pen :D
 
stormshadow said:
so for your fan/radiator, are you planning to suck the air into the case (down) or push the air out of the case (up)?
Click to expand...

Suck the air into the case trying to cool down the rad with fresh air then I have a fan in front sucking in fresh air into the case and another 120mm fan pulling air out of the case on the back with the 2 fans PSU pulling air out as well... IMO pretty good air circulation.


airflow8ii.jpg
 
Just something that I've picked up on; better cooling can be achieved by underpressurizing the case as opposed to overpressurizing it. So maybe having the rear mounted fan blowing in and the radiator fan blowing out would work? I'm assuming the fan on the radiator will be moving more air than the fan on the back.
 
Petra said:
You probably already know this but.... those foam-element fan filters totally kill airflow (though, they do work very well for filtering out dust and junk...which is why they kill airflow :rolleyes: ). Just thought I'd throw that out there...

Anyway, looking pretty good so far... oh, and I'm glad you like the pen :D
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm aware of that just thought I could give it a try and benchmark with and without filter to see what comes down... if the filter cost me performance then will take the sucker out.. just wanted to utilize my $4
:D

Stupid question.. since I'm new customer of Petra and also new at WC.... are you Petra in person? the real one?

If Yes, you guys really rock.. loved your prices and service also how well things get packed. :D

and.. my pen of course...
 
geez petra - what kinda filters you selling this guy? :D

quoc's the man btw - he helped me on several purchases.

thanks.
 
xXxDieselxXx said:
Stupid question.. since I'm new customer of Petra and also new at WC.... are you Petra in person? the real one?

If Yes, you guys really rock.. loved your prices and service also how well things get packed. :D

and.. my pen of course...
Click to expand...
Yup, that's me! :D Though, my real name isn't actually Petra... it's kind of a nick-name and gaming/forum handle that I picked up a while back (and, whaddayaknow, it stuck. heh).

<random>doesn't anyone ever read the "About Us" page?</random> :rolleyes: ;)

stormshadow said:
quoc's the man btw - he helped me on several purchases
Click to expand...
Yeah, he does nearly all of the front-line customer service stuff, finances, and packaging, while I take care of RMA's, technical support, the website, and a bunch of projects that we have going (the latest of which being those kits and our water cooling guide that I posted over in the XtremeSystems forums). Things'll balance out more on the customer service side of things as the store grows.
 
Guys question?

The thermal paste that comes with the Storm block is the AS Ceramique? should I use that paste instead of AS5? What's you opinion? I have both.. I always used AS5 but also heard good things about Ceramique... I even have the MX1 paste lol

Don't know what will be the best choice for WC
 
I like ceramique as, well, it doesn't "cure" in the same way AS5 does. After the 300hr burn in period, AS5 forms an almost solid bond, which creates awesome thermal conductivity... But if you hit or bump your case and break this "bond" your temps will skyrocket (My 35c load temperatures shot up to 58c after I brought my case to the basement for some passive ambient cooling ;)). AS ceramique performs, on average, 3-4c poorer than cured AS5, but doesn't solidify, allowing you to use the same application for YEARS.

Also, yes, blowhole should be pulling air OUT of the case. As with the BIX radiator, you need AS MUCH airflow as you can (I've done testing, and can confirm this) to get good temperatures.

Good luck on the project!

(PS: Thanks for answering the Petra question ;), I was wondering that myself).
 
xXxDieselxXx said:
Well I'm a little bit out of space and decided will do it inside case.. so I'm biting the bullet with the single extreme radiator which have been told will perform same or better than a double BIP ;)

Next time I'll buy a better case for WC.
Click to expand...
My radiator is mounted on top of my case, with the tubing going up, curving, and going back into the top of the case, just for a more interesting look.
 
Congrats diesel, what clamps you end up going with? My stuff should be here within the next 1-2 days too bad I work a lot those days and not a lot on the waiting days :(

My projects costing me a lot more than I initially budgeted for... sigh.
 
Arcygenical said:
I like ceramique as, well, it doesn't "cure" in the same way AS5 does. After the 300hr burn in period, AS5 forms an almost solid bond, which creates awesome thermal conductivity... But if you hit or bump your case and break this "bond" your temps will skyrocket (My 35c load temperatures shot up to 58c after I brought my case to the basement for some passive ambient cooling ). AS ceramique performs, on average, 3-4c poorer than cured AS5, but doesn't solidify, allowing you to use the same application for YEARS.

Also, yes, blowhole should be pulling air OUT of the case. As with the BIX radiator, you need AS MUCH airflow as you can (I've done testing, and can confirm this) to get good temperatures.

Good luck on the project!

(PS: Thanks for answering the Petra question , I was wondering that myself).
Click to expand...

Thanks buddy.. as it was getting very late and wanted to get some progress I decided to go Ceramique for the GPU and AS5 for the CPU. Regarding the air flow for the rad I'm using the same logic cars use which is get fresh air from outside the idea is to cool down the radiator.. however based on your experience I will test both ways to see what the numbers say - Thanks

MrSneis said:
Congrats diesel, what clamps you end up going with? My stuff should be here within the next 1-2 days too bad I work a lot those days and not a lot on the waiting days

My projects costing me a lot more than I initially budgeted for... sigh.
Click to expand...

Heya Sneis, congrats to you too this indeed is very exciting at least for me can't wait to see the results... regarding the clamps I bought some regular metal worm clamps but all the parts came with the plastic interlocking snap grips so I'm going to use those.. I know the metal worm clamps are better but don't like the idea of metal rubbing the tubing plus I'm using 7/16 tubing tight enough. :D

Borgschulze said:
My radiator is mounted on top of my case, with the tubing going up, curving, and going back into the top of the case, just for a more interesting look.
Click to expand...

That was my original idea but I went way over the budget my wife allowed me :D so I wanted to make it very little profile almost stealthty on look (That's why I got the $4 fan grill with filter LOL) no UV reactive flashy look plus I'm going to use Pentosin highly toxic and have 2 little daughters so the less I expose tubing the better ;)

Lets see how it goes...
 
Well,

Here is where I am.... it got too late as I had to deal with real life responsibilities I worked most of the night getting the loop ready but got very late 3:00 AM :D

I will continue trying to figure out where to place the pump and the Swiftech Micro Reservoir... I should go the T-Line option but it's too late and believe it or not the reservoir it's what's holding me down. The case looks like it has lot of room right now but there will be 2 hard drives and DVD burners on the right side so I'm really trying to figure out how to place the reservoir as it has to be placed on vertical position..

waitingfortubing5lr.jpg
 
I have a question regarding the MCP655 pump and 7/16 tubing... I can see how can you place the 7/16 tubing in a 1/2" barb just a little pressure and will do it.... now placing 7/16 tubing on the MCP655 barbs seems to be mission impossible... will the hot water trick do it? somehow the pump's inlet/outlet look pretty different than the regular barbs and I tried to play a little without hot water and was just not an option.

Any tips? Hot Water? I'll try when I get home.. just a little worried about it.
 
I'd try boiling up some water. Stick the end of the tube down in it for a few seconds, pull it out of the water, and immediately try to force it over the pump's fittings. Getting .5" ID tubing on that D5 pump can be a little tricky, so I can only imagine how hard it must be with 7/16".
 
Mark305TBI said:
I'd try boiling up some water. Stick the end of the tube down in it for a few seconds, pull it out of the water, and immediately try to force it over the pump's fittings. Getting .5" ID tubing on that D5 pump can be a little tricky, so I can only imagine how hard it must be with 7/16".
Click to expand...

Yikes..! Lets see how easier is with hot water then.. I have been reading hot water with pliers works wonders... crossing fingers...

Thank You...
 
heat gun worked for me getting 7/16" tubing over the mcp655 barbs.
 
Just out of curiosity, are you leak testing in the case? I thought it was easier to assemble the whole loop outside of the case and then put it in while it's hooked up and filled, but maybe I misread how you guys are installing.
 
holli4pirating said:
Just out of curiosity, are you leak testing in the case? I thought it was easier to assemble the whole loop outside of the case and then put it in while it's hooked up and filled, but maybe I misread how you guys are installing.
Click to expand...
i personally find leak testing inside the case with everything assembled easier. i think everyone has their own preference though.
 
xXxDieselxXx said:
Yikes..! Lets see how easier is with hot water then.. I have been reading hot water with pliers works wonders... crossing fingers...

Thank You...
Click to expand...

Yeah you have to work the tubing over the barbs, its not fun but can be done with the hot water. I stretched the ends out some with a screwdriver first, seemed to help some. I've done it twice so far and i'd rather not do it again anytime soon. I'd suggest putting them on first then attaching the other ends to whatever else in before and after the pump.


 
holli4pirating said:
Just out of curiosity, are you leak testing in the case? I thought it was easier to assemble the whole loop outside of the case and then put it in while it's hooked up and filled, but maybe I misread how you guys are installing.
Click to expand...

I would love testing out of the case but I really had hard time calculating the tubing length without having the parts mounted also I find quite risky testing out then moving and placing the parts back to the case... it's more chance for kinking and damaging other stuff specially when parts can get quite heavy all tangled together IMO :D

Also in case you guys are interested. Danger Den site has some great videos of how to put a loop together. Take a look at the video "Water Cooling System Part 2" This guy shows how to place and measure the tubing... that's why I decided to go inside case.

Here

Also thanks for the tips guys.... I'll try the hot water deal also I'll make sure to have the tubing connected to the pump first ;) Thanks Imitation
 
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