Enhanced Interrogator
[H]ard|Gawd
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I've read that colorimeters can drift over time. Not sure if that's what happened here or what.
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24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.
- Thread starter mathesar
- Start date
I've read that colorimeters can drift over time. Not sure if that's what happened here or what.
spacediver
2[H]4U
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I haven't watched this video but nice to see one out there! There's a link in my signature that contains a WPB guide that you might also find useful. You can do a WPB accuracy test after the job is complete (that is also covered there).
Given that you're using a DTP-94, don't set the G2 too dark, as you won't be able to measure in the very dark range.
XoR_
[H]ard|Gawd
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Recently I acquired Dell P1110.
So now I have a backup plan should flyback transformer in my FW900 fail
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Thank you very much, especially for the pattern files. I will do it following your guide as soon as I can, will definitely post results.
Xar
Limp Gawd
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Fascinating fact. You got the source for this experiment?
I always used the same X-Rite i1 Pro Plus I got since '18. Abused it hard on CRT-QDOLED-MiniLED-WOLED-AVHAIPS and my wife's 2 Sammy 15.6" RGB AMOLED
. Wanna see if wide-range usage many times throughout years can affect the calibration lens.
Prince Valiant
Limp Gawd
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If I remember right, colorimeter drift is an issue if the filter is poor quality. The DTP-94 has a glass filter and should be fine unless it was stored in poor conditions (if I remember right, yet again 
).
).Guys, one more thing. For those of you who are familiar with the history of FW900, tell me, why is it that we see many of the original Sony FW900 online, a bit less of them in HP variant, SGI version here and there, but literally not a single user made picture of the SUN variant ? (GDM-FW9010). It is just like an unicorn to me. I love everything purple so naturally this would be a grail monitor for me
tongshadow
Limp Gawd
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SGI and SUN units came together as a kit for their respective Work Stations, or weren't really available for normal consumers.
Xar
Limp Gawd
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Non existent so far. I've been searching hard for this model.
First post here!
Recently got an FW900 that is stellar, other than Dynamic Convergence not working. It responded to WPB just fine in WinDAS, but controls for Dynamic Convergence (dcnv) don't do anything in WinDAS. Have it set to Mode 5 and everything.
I think this is a hardware failure somewhere, for the simple fact that when I first start the monitor, the convergence is blown to hell. Extremely misaligned. I threw up a crosshatch and saw that it looks as if all of the points for dynamic convergence were just blown way out of alignment, except for a section in the bottom right.
After about 5 minutes, I can literally see the Dyn. Conv. "give up" or "turn off" and it seems I'm just left with static convergence at that point (much better than dying dynamic conv). Usable, but not ideal. Note: the monitor stays "trying" with the dynamic convergence forever unless I'm at 1920x1200 @85hz. It has to be at that resolution for Dyn. Conv. to "give up". This is not related to temp. It can warm up for hours and if I turn it off for a second, then back on, it goes back to the Dyn. Conv. from hell trying it's best again.
The Dynamic Convergence seems to be handled by the S board, so I plan on pulling that and checking for bad caps or solder joints. Before I do that though, has anyone seen this happen before? My only other idea is that my timings for Mode 5 aren't exactly as WinDAS/Manual direct. I can't figure out the horizontal timings because they're displayed in usec, not pixels or lines. This was discussed in this thread a while back, but points to images and links that are now dead. Still heavily leaning towards a hardware issue though, considering the startup issue with Dyn. Conv.
Recently got an FW900 that is stellar, other than Dynamic Convergence not working. It responded to WPB just fine in WinDAS, but controls for Dynamic Convergence (dcnv) don't do anything in WinDAS. Have it set to Mode 5 and everything.
I think this is a hardware failure somewhere, for the simple fact that when I first start the monitor, the convergence is blown to hell. Extremely misaligned. I threw up a crosshatch and saw that it looks as if all of the points for dynamic convergence were just blown way out of alignment, except for a section in the bottom right.
After about 5 minutes, I can literally see the Dyn. Conv. "give up" or "turn off" and it seems I'm just left with static convergence at that point (much better than dying dynamic conv). Usable, but not ideal. Note: the monitor stays "trying" with the dynamic convergence forever unless I'm at 1920x1200 @85hz. It has to be at that resolution for Dyn. Conv. to "give up". This is not related to temp. It can warm up for hours and if I turn it off for a second, then back on, it goes back to the Dyn. Conv. from hell trying it's best again.
The Dynamic Convergence seems to be handled by the S board, so I plan on pulling that and checking for bad caps or solder joints. Before I do that though, has anyone seen this happen before? My only other idea is that my timings for Mode 5 aren't exactly as WinDAS/Manual direct. I can't figure out the horizontal timings because they're displayed in usec, not pixels or lines. This was discussed in this thread a while back, but points to images and links that are now dead. Still heavily leaning towards a hardware issue though, considering the startup issue with Dyn. Conv.
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Not too sure about what you're meaning, but according to your description, my best bet is that's the digital area by area convergence setting that has a problem on your screen, as opposed to the basic convergence parameters.(horizontal global, and vertical top/center/bottom).
Before breaking anything further, I'd advise to save the firmware of the screen and try a full convergence procedure in Windas, at least, a "fake" one without bothering to set everything right, but at least a few areas so that you can check if there's an improvement and if it's worth setting everything. See if it improves the problem. The previous owner could have been an idiot that messed with the wrong setting and broke convergence at a software level ...
Before breaking anything further, I'd advise to save the firmware of the screen and try a full convergence procedure in Windas, at least, a "fake" one without bothering to set everything right, but at least a few areas so that you can check if there's an improvement and if it's worth setting everything. See if it improves the problem. The previous owner could have been an idiot that messed with the wrong setting and broke convergence at a software level ...
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Thanks for the response! A few friends of mine have pointed me toward the S board as being what primarily handles dynamic convergence. I checked the manual and the schematics show a chip with 100 pins that's labeled "Digital Conv Control" (IC3001) so it seemed to me that it would be what handled Dynamic Convergence.
I can confirm that no matter what box I choose to adjust in the WinDAS dcnv procedure, and no matter what slider I adjust (or how slowly I adjust) it changes nothing on the screen. I used a USB microscope to confirm this. Also worth noting I've handled dynamic convergence on my F520 and C520 just fine.
I do think that going thru with a "fake" dcnv and saving it could do something to help reset the values to something reasonable or closer to factory. I can give that a shot.
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Enhanced Interrogator
[H]ard|Gawd
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Ok so I think I have a big update on this.
Way back when I first tried this adapter, I had to run DP to a Sunix DP-Alt USB-C card. I had some random lines going through the screen, and my max pixel clock sucked. My best guess is there is some incompatibility with the Sunix Alt-DP card, thought it could have been a driver issue or something esle
But I have a Radeon 6800 XT now, which has native USB-C output. So I've tried the 0ric0 adapter again
And the picture seems really good?! No artifacts, no loss of picture.
Highest resolution I've run is 2304x1728 @ 60hz, which is about a 340 mHz.
Later today I'll get my Diamondtron CRT hooked up so I can really test the max pixel clock limits with stuff like 2880x2160
is one of those for me?
cesarioFL71
Limp Gawd
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crt pOrn........Those units are beautiful!
Is the casing purple? Please, tell me, I have to know
jbltecnicspro
[H]F Junkie
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Yes it is. A very pastel purple, in line with Sun's other rebranded electronics.Is the casing purple? Please, tell me, I have to know
I will now dedicate all of my efforts, resources and free time into obtaining this. If anybody reads this, I will give you two of my original Sony FW900s for one of these SUN ones
jbltecnicspro
[H]F Junkie
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Unless you’re a collector there’s no reason to get these over any other variant. Unless they’re in perfect condition of course.I will now dedicate all of my efforts, resources and free time into obtaining this. If anybody reads this, I will give you two of my original Sony FW900s for one of these SUN ones
I recently managed to acquire some spare parts for my FW900 that has a bad flyback (according to a tech). I got them from a Craigslist seller who had complete spare boards for this unit. The thing is, he wasn't able to verify if any particular part was good since he couldn't test them. So I took a gamble.
It seems these spare parts had been stored unused for many years, maybe more than a decade.
So I went ahead and replaced the entire D-board and flyback with the replacement part. And... still doesn't work. In fact, the symptoms are the same as before.
Now, I'm hoping that the new flyback isn't the problem and the problem is maybe with the replacement D-board, a bad connection or something else.
Could anyone advise me on how to test the flyback with a multimeter? I have a confirmed bad flyback that I can compare the "new" part with.
If I can verify that the flyback I just got is also bad, then I'm out of luck. If, on the other hand, it seems fine then I still have some hope of fixing this thing and getting it working again.
It seems these spare parts had been stored unused for many years, maybe more than a decade.
So I went ahead and replaced the entire D-board and flyback with the replacement part. And... still doesn't work. In fact, the symptoms are the same as before.
Now, I'm hoping that the new flyback isn't the problem and the problem is maybe with the replacement D-board, a bad connection or something else.
Could anyone advise me on how to test the flyback with a multimeter? I have a confirmed bad flyback that I can compare the "new" part with.
If I can verify that the flyback I just got is also bad, then I'm out of luck. If, on the other hand, it seems fine then I still have some hope of fixing this thing and getting it working again.
I checked your previous posts and found your video about the original problem. Does it still do the same, with that spark gap SG901 enabling continuously several times before the monitor going down ? That's a symptom for high voltage overvoltage, but it doesn't mean necessarily the flyback is faulty. There might as well be a problem with the 220V line regulation, outside of the D board, or with the voltage regulation using that 220V line to supply the flyback (on the D board).
Checking the failure report in Windas might provide a few useful clues as well, since a safety is tripping.
Very much hoping you get this fixed, but if you end up not needing the S board I'd gladly buy it!
If you would have some spares or boards that you are not going to use, I would also like to buy something.
You didn't pick up that one from Seattle's Craigslist recently did you?
Yes, it's doing the same thing.
Do you mind explaining how to check the 220V line regulation?
How would I use Windas to generate a safety report?
Since a few people have asked if I'm willing to sell them parts, I first obviously want to see if I can get this unit fixed since I don't know what parts I may need just yet.
But, after that, I'll probably be willing to let a few extra parts go. So stay tuned for that.
But, after that, I'll probably be willing to let a few extra parts go. So stay tuned for that.
No, I was gonna say there's a guy in Burien that's a broadcast technician that can probably help you if you get stuck. His place is called Retro Perception, you can contact him on Instagram. He's pretty busy though from the sound of things.
I do not remember exactly how it is called but it's the first choice in windas' procedure list. It's not a safety report, but a failure log. The monitor doesn't have to be powered on to access it.
Checking 220V ? With a multimeter, as simple as that.
Power the monitor on and measure voltage between 220V line and the chassis, you can use the exposed metal part on top connectors on the G board if your hand is firm enough (!!!do not rip, risk of shorts!!!), or clip a wire linked to the multimeter probe somewhere on the path of 220V lines while the monitor is off, then once the multimeter is properly connected, power on.
2nd method is safer and should make measurements easier if the monitor only stays on for a short time, but you need extra clips/wires. R680's top leg or the jumper wire next to R650 are suitable measurement locations.
Was that the Ebay one with the broken stand?
No, but I did notice that one is gone. $550 was too much for me to fork over for just one board. I found a guy wanting to buy my NEC rebadged 2070SB, and he mentioned he has an SGI FW900 with a damaged grill that he'll give me. He shipped the S board out for now, and will bring the rest of the unit when he comes for the 2070SB.
Dude is a saint for this.
In case you would sell some FW900 parts, please let me know! I am interested.
jbltecnicspro
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Staying tuned because I want to see a success story. Good luck!