24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

Now my brightness is too bright were can i get windas cable?

Im so close to just tossing this POS

Scratch that image restore fixes problem was blacks were reddish
but if monitor is off for few mins problem returns i tried 4 times now not to mention my screen size adjustments change im done this is going to recycle center

the money i spent on this was going towards a g-sync monitor now i cant even afford that :mad:
 
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pcalltheway2 said:
Now my brightness is too bright were can i get windas cable?

Im so close to just tossing this POS

Scratch that image restore fixes problem was blacks were reddish
but if monitor is off for few mins problem returns i tried 4 times now not to mention my screen size adjustments change im done this is going to recycle center

the money i spent on this was going towards a g-sync monitor now i cant even afford that :mad:
Click to expand...

You are giving up too soon... The issues you are experiencing are all fixable... This monitor may need WPB adjustment (G2 adjustment is part of this process)...

Does the monitor image has a red cast/tint? If yes, how strong is it?... or does the monitor has retrace lines along with the brightness issue? or BOTH? What is your brightness & contrast setting?

Let me know...

UV!
 
EnhancedInterrogator said:
Did you not expect to have to work on the monitor a little? It comes with the territory on CRT's now. Once you get it tuned in, though, it's worth it.
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This is pretty much why I don't recommend CRT's to anyone these days unless they know what they're getting. I do say though - my FW900 requires a little more playing around than my 520's do.
 
EnhancedInterrogator said:
Oh yeah, and I agree with JBL in thinking you should make sure your drivers aren't doing GPU scaling.
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Forgot to mention that the easiest way to figure out if your GPU is still forcing scaling is changing the resolution. If you change the resolution and the FBT clicks and displays another resolution, then you're not scaling. For some reason, the Artisan does not make the "click" sound. But you can watch it switch modes (and the OSD properly identifies the resolution). Pretty interesting. :)
 
Any g520s floating about? In Connecticut area. Need my CRT fix! LCD driving me cray. :)

Sent from my iPhone
 
The first auction host must be smoking some serious shit if he thinks that monitor with retrace lines and the whole bit is worth $150.
 
Been working on creating some test patterns from scratch, with help from jbl who provided descriptions and photos of the images from his video generator.

Here's a crosshatch pattern. The space between the lines are all identical except for the innermost vertical and horizontal ones (i.e. the ones bordering the main crosshatch).

http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=27128489397363293610

I created this in inkscape and used Matlab to verify it.

Next is a MEME pattern used for focus adjustments, and I created it entirely in matlab.

http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=50889371827248239317

These are first drafts and may undergo revisions as we work on our WinDAS guides. If you're using software such as irfanview to view these images, be sure to disable resampling if you zoom in to examine them.

p.s. the guides will have detailed instructions on how to set your PC up to view these images correctly when using them as test patterns (i.e. no color correction, gamma adjustment, resampling).
 
LAGRUNAUER said:
That unit is OK but the shipping the seller is charging is outrageously expensive and the deal is not worth it...

UV!
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Does it use the same tube as the Artisan? If it's really brand new and it's the same tube, the total cost may be worth it...:confused: That's of course, if it DOES use the same tube. :)
 
Poordevil said:
Thanks for the heads up! I dunno, it seems a little rough to me. Green glow, cracked case, AG coating removed because it was scratched up, If he puts it over on the free section I may pick it up.
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Green glow for an FW900 that's just starting up isn't uncommon. It probably needs a White Balance adjust. Cosmetic damage, meh. AG coating removed because it was scratched up leaves you with a glass screen that has no scratches at all (assuming he does it right - but that glass is TOUGH!). I think that $250 is perfectly reasonable for this unit. But I have the ability to recalibrate, so your mileage may vary.
 
the green glow is just during the warmup he said. Hell mine has a green glow during warmup (which I can notice if I load up a black screen).
 
My fw900 was glowing red on warm up a few months before it died. So that is why the glowing green report makes me hesitant. The cracked case and missing AG coating is not such a deal breaker, except being signs of hard usage.
 
Poordevil said:
My fw900 was glowing red on warm up a few months before it died. So that is why the glowing green report makes me hesitant. The cracked case and missing AG coating is not such a deal breaker, except being signs of hard usage.
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Glowing red is definitely a sign of a bad tube or gun(s). Glowing green on warmup is normal, so long as it goes away. Missing AG coating is not a sign of hard usage. My FW900 doesn't have the AG coating because I chose to remove it. It had a small nick in it and I wanted glossy. If anything, a removed AG coating is a sign that an enthusiast owned it, because its removal takes a little bit of effort.
 
jbltecnicspro said:
Glowing red is definitely a sign of a bad tube or gun(s). Glowing green on warmup is normal, so long as it goes away. Missing AG coating is not a sign of hard usage. My FW900 doesn't have the AG coating because I chose to remove it. It had a small nick in it and I wanted glossy. If anything, a removed AG coating is a sign that an enthusiast owned it, because its removal takes a little bit of effort.
Click to expand...

All types of color casts and/or color glows/hues may be indications of bad gun(s). The best way to rule out gun issues is to test all the guns with the Sencore CR70 or the CR7000. Check the cut off and check the tube's emission and shorts. If the tube checks OK in all tests, then the tube is OK and the glow/hue is just a gun stabilization issue which goes away once the guns are warmed up (usually is 60 minutes).

Hope this helps...

UV!
 
LAGRUNAUER said:
All types of color casts and/or color glows/hues may be indications of bad gun(s). The best way to rule out gun issues is to test all the guns with the Sencore CR70 or the CR7000. Check the cut off and check the tube's emission and shorts. If the tube checks OK in all tests, then the tube is OK and the glow/hue is just a gun stabilization issue which goes away once the guns are warmed up (usually is 60 minutes).

Hope this helps...

UV!
Click to expand...

Why do these monitors in particular take so long to warm up? All of my GDM's take some time to warm, with the FW900 being the longest. My smaller tubes and other brands don't have this issue.
 
Yea i've always wondered about that too. I thought at first it took a while for the cathode to heat up and release electrons, but if anything, that would result in a darker picture during warmup, not a washed out picture.

Perhaps the screen/drive voltages are self calibrating while the cathode is warming up, and they stabilize when the temperature is stable.
 
Off topic. You gotta love CRT. I just set the white point balance on my old Samsung TV. I got an average delta E of 1.7, which isn't bad for an old 480i CRT TV. It had a measured black-to-white static contrast of a little over 10,000:1 when I got done with it though. Sheesh. Another reason I still love CRT. I can't believe though that the factory brightness levels were at 160 candela! I'm surprised the tube's still operable! I dropped it down to 105.
 
heh an average delta e of 1.7 is pretty fantastic without a LUT. Just goes to show how linear CRTs are compared to other technology, where additivity suffers due to subpixel leakage.

just a small quibble - candela is a unit of luminous intensity, which is different from luminance (candela/m^2). Many people use the term "nits" instead of cd/m^2 as it rolls of the tongue and fingers more easily :)
 
jbltecnicspro said:
Why do these monitors in particular take so long to warm up? All of my GDM's take some time to warm, with the FW900 being the longest. My smaller tubes and other brands don't have this issue.
Click to expand...

Large tube requires more time for the guns to warm up and stabilize... I leave it 120 minutes on before I attempt to make any adjustments on these units.

UV!
 
jbltecnicspro said:
Off topic. You gotta love CRT. I just set the white point balance on my old Samsung TV. I got an average delta E of 1.7, which isn't bad for an old 480i CRT TV. It had a measured black-to-white static contrast of a little over 10,000:1 when I got done with it though. Sheesh. Another reason I still love CRT. I can't believe though that the factory brightness levels were at 160 candela! I'm surprised the tube's still operable! I dropped it down to 105.
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160!!!! WOW....
 
LAGRUNAUER said:
160!!!! WOW....
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Yeah, I know. And when I was adjusting the RGB drive and such, it would still hover at 160 cd/m^2 (when I lowered the Green, the luminance would lower and then raise again, even though x and y values were adjusted). This leads me to believe the ABL was kicking in full swing to prevent it from going higher, which is probably not good. It's now sitting happily at 105 cd/m^2 though, and after raising the black levels a little, it's golden for low-level blacks (and true blacks still look black in our normal viewing environment). Though this seems a bit frivolous as the television's primary use is playing Sega Genesis and SNES. :D

EDIT: Well, this IS the television whose speakers weren't shielded sitting next to the tube and producing left and right magnetic splotches on the screen (it's good now - I removed the speakers - they didn't work anyway ;) ), so having it sit naturally at 160 cd/m^2 wasn't too shocking. Immediately when I turned the white pattern on I saw that it was WAY too bright.
 
jbltecnicspro said:
Off topic. You gotta love CRT. I just set the white point balance on my old Samsung TV. I got an average delta E of 1.7, which isn't bad for an old 480i CRT TV. It had a measured black-to-white static contrast of a little over 10,000:1 when I got done with it though. Sheesh. Another reason I still love CRT. I can't believe though that the factory brightness levels were at 160 candela! I'm surprised the tube's still operable! I dropped it down to 105.
Click to expand...


talking about planned obsolescence
 
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