7800X3D best BIOS settings

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rinaldo00

2[H]4U
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Mar 9, 2005
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This is my first AMD CPU and I would like some advice on how to set it up. I have heard of PBO and XMP. Obviously I would like to get the most performance out of it that I can but I am not going to manually overclock it, I hear that the gains are minimal over auto clocking.

This is just a gaming machine. It would be nice to get tips for an ASUS motherboard since that is what I have. Full specs below.
Thanks!


GPU ASUS TUF GeForce RTX® 4090 OC Edition
MB ASUS ROG Strix B650E-F Gaming WiFi
CPU 7800X3D
RAM Dominator Platinum RGB 32GB DDR5-6000 CL36
Cooler Corsair iCUE H150i ELITE LCD
 
I have a very similar setup, only with a 7950X3D. Same or very similar RAM, cooler, video card, etc. I'm not doing any manual OC'ing or anything unusual, so these settings should work for you:

1. Enable EXPO. In my case, I'm using EXPO I in the ASUS settings. Never had an issue, although I'm using the CL30 version of your RAM.
2. Disable onboard audio. (I don't need or use it since I use the HDMI out on the 4090, but if you use it, ignore this step)
3. Make sure Resizable BAR is on. It should be on by default, but you never know.
4. Enable the automatic Q-Fan setting that detects your case fans + speeds, etc.
5. Enable PBO under the AMD Overclocking settings. There's an option to do this in the ASUS section, but there are lots of reports in their forums that this version is more stable. It's solid for me, so I stick to it.
6. Disable the ASUS Armory Crate Software install
7. Disable the onboard GPU. (Like with the audio, I don't need/use it. If you ever do, skip this step)
8. Turn Aura completely off. (This just kills off any RGB lights and effects. If you like those, ignore this step)
9. Make sure SecureBoot is set to "Normal."

That's pretty much it.
 
PBO advanced you can use a negative curve optimizer offset to reduce voltage on a curve. I use -15 all core and that nets a gain of nearly a 150Mhz on boost clocks.
 
learners permit said:
PBO advanced you can use a negative curve optimizer offset to reduce voltage on a curve. I use -15 all core and that nets a gain of nearly a 150Mhz on boost clocks.
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Being a asus board you can also just set the pbo enhancement to a certain max temp and just be done with it.
 
I think expo w/ right timings is more useful than PBO. I would definitely try PBO advanced w/ a negative offset. -10 is super safe. -15 should work mostly as well.
However, with my 5800X3D, I stopped setting the offset. The 100 MHz up or down did not yield anything meaningful for games and it was a hassle to use a 3rd party tool to do PBO. On my 5900X I just set it to -10 and called it. Was it worth it. Not really.

At the end of the day, the CPU is already operating balls to the wall. Only timings can net some gains but honestly even those are minimal on this platform. Unlike Intel there is little to be had for the extra work and stability testing of the system except for some penis marks on some random CPU bench.
 
Domingo said:
I have a very similar setup, only with a 7950X3D. Same or very similar RAM, cooler, video card, etc. I'm not doing any manual OC'ing or anything unusual, so these settings should work for you:

1. Enable EXPO. In my case, I'm using EXPO I in the ASUS settings. Never had an issue, although I'm using the CL30 version of your RAM.
2. Disable onboard audio. (I don't need or use it since I use the HDMI out on the 4090, but if you use it, ignore this step)
3. Make sure Resizable BAR is on. It should be on by default, but you never know.
4. Enable the automatic Q-Fan setting that detects your case fans + speeds, etc.
5. Enable PBO under the AMD Overclocking settings. There's an option to do this in the ASUS section, but there are lots of reports in their forums that this version is more stable. It's solid for me, so I stick to it.
6. Disable the ASUS Armory Crate Software install
7. Disable the onboard GPU. (Like with the audio, I don't need/use it. If you ever do, skip this step)
8. Turn Aura completely off. (This just kills off any RGB lights and effects. If you like those, ignore this step)
9. Make sure SecureBoot is set to "Normal."

That's pretty much it.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tips! Why do you suggest to disable the ASUS Armory Crate Software install? It is already installed and seems harmless. Are you saying that because it is unnecessary or because it can reduce performance?
 
rinaldo00 said:
Thanks for the tips! Why do you suggest to disable the ASUS Armory Crate Software install? It is already installed and seems harmless. Are you saying that because it is unnecessary or because it can reduce performance?
Click to expand...

Personally, I just hate it. Beyond trying to install its own drivers (that are older than the ones on their site), I've found that if you have different programs installed that have RGB functionality (iCue, Armory Crate, Gigabyte Control Center, GHub) they can conflict and keep turning lights on or off when you don't want that. The fewer I can have on my system, the better.
 
I'm still amazed by people that can run custom BIOS settings with a Ryzen 7000 chip. Both of the ones I've used fail to POST regularly even on default settings, and as soon as you tweak anything you're guaranteed an hour of boot looping and crashes before you can even use the machine.

I've been considering just leaving it on 24/7 because I have to go through this at least a dozen times to get to Windows.

IMG_1026.jpeg
 
Maybe the fault lies with your main board and not the processors you've used? I personally prefer MSI boards for one reason they just work without having to coax them into functioning correctly. I'm not saying they are perfect but the amount of fussing around I've experienced is greatly diminished and that is something of value as my time to fuss around is limited. Yea I'll get the fanboi griefers over this statement but that changes nothing for me and I stand by what I said. The last 9 of 10 AMD system builds I've done were with MSI and one Gigabyte and of those builds only 2 gave me any issues. The Gigabyte B450 and one MSI B450 I got as an open box. The Gigabyte board had constant USB disconnects and the MSI had one usb hub that was shorted by a physically damaged (dented cap) coupling capacitor that was easily repaired. The Gigabyte usb issue was solved by a bios switch change that took a week to figure out. Point is I value my time more as I get older and I choose to use what just works for me without fussing around.
 
learners permit said:
Maybe the fault lies with your main board and not the processors you've used? I personally prefer MSI boards for one reason they just work without having to coax them into functioning correctly. I'm not saying they are perfect but the amount of fussing around I've experienced is greatly diminished and that is something of value as my time to fuss around is limited. Yea I'll get the fanboi griefers over this statement but that changes nothing for me and I stand by what I said. The last 9 of 10 AMD system builds I've done were with MSI and one Gigabyte and of those builds only 2 gave me any issues. The Gigabyte B450 and one MSI B450 I got as an open box. The Gigabyte board had constant USB disconnects and the MSI had one usb hub that was shorted by a physically damaged (dented cap) coupling capacitor that was easily repaired. The Gigabyte usb issue was solved by a bios switch change that took a week to figure out. Point is I value my time more as I get older and I choose to use what just works for me without fussing around.
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Yeah, I only went through 4 boards, 5 sets of RAM and two CPUs. Clearly not enough to have a running system 🙄

I never had any problem with AM4 regardless of what parts I used from any brand, but AM5 is such a pain in the ass. Its ridiculous. I built a 7800X3D rig for my friend and had to keep it an extra week stress testing it to make sure it wasn't going to keep crashing, well he hated it so much he bought another prebuilt machine only a few weeks after he got it. He has the same issues as I do, constant boot loops and POST fails, bluescreens when playing games. All default, auto settings. Latest BIOS. MSI board. RAM on the QVL. I have to have PBO and CPB shut off and the CPU on ECO mode just to get to windows, playing games is an excercise in save-scumming because you can be sure its going to crash every 15-20 minutes.
 
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My ASUS board has been pretty much bulletproof unless I really start futzing around with things like disabling cores. The trick is that after changing anything that affects performance it takes like 10 minutes to post. After that one long post everything is back to normal.
 
Domingo said:
My ASUS board has been pretty much bulletproof unless I really start futzing around with things like disabling cores. The trick is that after changing anything that affects performance it takes like 10 minutes to post. After that one long post everything is back to normal.
Click to expand...

I've got my 6th kit of RAM coming today, this is my last ditch effort before I just RMA everything (again) and go to my old 1800X rig that still at least works right.
 
I think maybe the 670E boards are trying to do too much signal juggling and it's causing issues. I opted for the 670 pro this time with express 4 gpu slot as as 5 just isn't necessary. Maybe that's why I've had no issues at all and I'm able to configure it how ever I want. Are you able to set the primary gpu slot to express 4 for testing via a bios switch?
 
I’m running a 7800X3D on a gigabyte B650 M DS3H and I haven’t had any problems. It’s been one of the most stable PCs I’ve ever used. I’m running gskill 6000mhz 30cl memory, which I just used it’s expo settings to optimize. I’ve got the CPU set to a -35 all core offset because that’s what Ryzen master suggested. The only stability issues I’ve had came from overclocking my 7900 XT too far. I would point fingers at your ASUS motherboard or something to do with the way you’re installing the drivers.
 
LigTasm said:
Yeah, I only went through 4 boards, 5 sets of RAM and two CPUs. Clearly not enough to have a running system 🙄

I never had any problem with AM4 regardless of what parts I used from any brand, but AM5 is such a pain in the ass. Its ridiculous. I built a 7800X3D rig for my friend and had to keep it an extra week stress testing it to make sure it wasn't going to keep crashing, well he hated it so much he bought another prebuilt machine only a few weeks after he got it. He has the same issues as I do, constant boot loops and POST fails, bluescreens when playing games. All default, auto settings. Latest BIOS. MSI board. RAM on the QVL. I have to have PBO and CPB shut off and the CPU on ECO mode just to get to windows, playing games is an excercise in save-scumming because you can be sure its going to crash every 15-20 minutes.
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I wonder if this will help some https://www.techpowerup.com/312017/amd-readying-agesa-1-0-0-7c-for-am5-motherboards
 
I went through a long process messing with PBO power offsets and what not on my setup and just put it back to stock. I did not see any meaningful difference in my frame rates across all the games I play using a 280mm AIO (Artic). I went deep into all the various ways to increase performance and the small tricks to get it to boost higher and it worked but like I said it really didn't make any difference for me in gaming or synthetic benchmarks. It's a living room PC so I don't really care about any other performance being left on the table for productivity.

I set my SoC voltages to 1.225 iirc after that CPU burn issue came up but I'm still on a way earlier BIOS. I'm pretty sure its AGESA 1.0.0.6 since that's what I had to flash to once I upgraded to the 7800X3D. That said, I will be flashing to AGESA 1.0.0.7c since for my board I have that stupid Bluetooth disconnect issue. As far as memory stability goes, I had the Samsung dies and now the Hynix M dies and have had absolutely no issues with stability with either.

Enable Resizable BAR and then configured the optimized timings from Actually Hardcore Overclocking for the 6000 CL30 memory which did increase my framerates by an amount outside of what I'd call margin of error. Especially coming from the CL36 Samsung memory I had originally. I disable HT out of habit from most of my Intel setups in the past. For whatever reason my 9900K, 8700K and 12700k all had incredibly annoying micro stutters when enabled. They did not show up on Riva Tuner OSD but I sure as hell felt them.
 
Well I went on my last ditch effort and tried the new 1.0.0.7b that came out in a new bios yesterday. It was even more unstable, I was only able to get to windows with one stick of ram. I went ahead and opened an RMA for the cpu. I ended up having to bring my 1800x machine out because I couldn’t even get through the RMA form without a crash.
 
I hope you get it figured out, somethings wrong in that build. I hope it doesn’t cost you anything to sort it out.
 
FiveDollarBill said:
I hope you get it figured out, somethings wrong in that build. I hope it doesn’t cost you anything to sort it out.
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I think I figured it out. After I sent the chip to RMA, I went to pull one of the m.2 drives out of the board to put in my spare rig for the time being. Well, when I took the heatsink off it was wet. What was it wet with? Coolant from my EK AIO, which was leaking out of the cold plate. Now I know why the other drive died as well a few weeks back. The leak was very small, I had to use a flashlight to even find it. It was just dripping down straight into the m.2 heatsink and saturating the thermal pad. We'll see what happens when I get a chip back, the socket was dry as it was coming out at the bottom edge of the cold plate.
 
LigTasm said:
I think I figured it out. After I sent the chip to RMA, I went to pull one of the m.2 drives out of the board to put in my spare rig for the time being. Well, when I took the heatsink off it was wet. What was it wet with? Coolant from my EK AIO, which was leaking out of the cold plate. Now I know why the other drive died as well a few weeks back. The leak was very small, I had to use a flashlight to even find it. It was just dripping down straight into the m.2 heatsink and saturating the thermal pad. We'll see what happens when I get a chip back, the socket was dry as it was coming out at the bottom edge of the cold plate.
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Damn, that sounds like a bad time. I had EK coolant leak as well. Since then I never used an EK product. It was their first EK 360 AIO that they made. Predator with quick disconnect stuff.
For the cost, I am not willing to put up with this crap. Meanwhile my Corsairs have been running over 5 years. I even had a 8 year old H80 that I sold for like 50$.
 
KickAssCop said:
Damn, that sounds like a bad time. I had EK coolant leak as well. Since then I never used an EK product. It was their first EK 360 AIO that they made. Predator with quick disconnect stuff.
For the cost, I am not willing to put up with this crap. Meanwhile my Corsairs have been running over 5 years. I even had a 8 year old H80 that I sold for like 50$.
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I took it apart and drained it and it seems to have lost about 30ml of fluid to somewhere. I think the gasket for the cold plate has gone bad because I can't get it to stop leaking now, it just pisses out all over the place if I run it after I refilled it. Then again, the screws for the cold plate are self tapping, so it may be that now I've had it apart it can't grip hard enough in the plastic to seal. Oh well, I'll use the air cooler for now.
 
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