Add external 120 Rad to existing loop?

O

Outlaw85

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Feb 7, 2012
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I did post this over at oc.net hoping to get a quick reply from a couple people for some opinions. I do mess around with OC but nothing extreme, just trying to get nice and low temps (I know, can't break ambient). If anything the loop is [H]?

4770K
8GB DDR3
GTX 660 SC 2GB
NODE 304

Current Loop-
Res > Pump > GTX 660 > 120 Rad > 4770K > 280 Rad > Res

20150824_181533 by Jesse James

And, yes the 280 goes in the case :)
 
Your loop already easily did dip ates more than 350w of heat with a 10c delta over ambient. After that, sadly, gains are hastily limited as colder surfaces have more difficulty radiating heat.

I have 5x 120mm radiator slots filled and I still only achieve a 10c delta.
 
rive22 said:
What is the question
Click to expand...

Sorry. Shouldve been more clear.
A. what are thoughts on look
B. what are thoughta on cooling


Arcygenical said:
Your loop already easily dissipates more than 350w of heat with a 10c delta over ambient. After that, sadly, gains are hastily limited as colder surfaces have more difficulty radiating heat.

I have 5x 120mm radiator slots filled and I still only achieve a 10c delta.
Click to expand...

Thanks. That is what I was looking for. Im not sure what the cpu would draw with an oc but even at 100w (stock 84w) + GPU 150w (stock 2gb ti) I still have headroom. Good thing I can somewhat easily bypass the rear rad for a test or two.
 
Outlaw85 said:
Sorry. Shouldve been more clear.
A. what are thoughts on look
B. what are thoughta on cooling




.
Click to expand...


Looks like a mess, but a functional mess :p

Just remember rad location in a loop means nothing, always design your loop to be as short as possible. Having a rad in between the cpu and gpu does nothing for temps and makes the tubing longer and messier.
 
Now that looks sweet! Awesome small build.

Do you find the extra 120mm rad necessary? I've been looking into doing something like this but me personally would find the 120mm rad sticking out like a sore thumb.
 
Killerxp100 said:
Now that looks sweet! Awesome small build.

Do you find the extra 120mm rad necessary? I've been looking into doing something like this but me personally would find the 120mm rad sticking out like a sore thumb.
Click to expand...

Thanks. It does look a lot better assembled. The sore thumb is my dilemma. Right now I have to run open top/sides since I haven't cut the cover up. When I bring it places without the sore thumb, it's a big surprise whats in there. It kind of loses that with the monster rad hanging off it BUT does say there may be something cool inside :)

I'll have to double check some of my other posts for old temps. With the current setup I am able to hit ambient temps at IDLE on the CPU and GPU.

Under CPU only stress test (P95 or IBT) it hits 63C at stock settings. I want to say with the single 280 rad, I would peak at 64-66C but don't remember if I had light OC or not.


*update-
20:07 CST Running Furmark CPU and GPU Burner, Prime95 and IBT standard about 6min now.
Peak Temps (all stock)-
GPU- 45c
CPU0- 59c
CPU1- 59c
CPU2- 59c
CPU3- 59c

I'm not sure if it was some weird spike that they all hit 59c but it's been hovering around 51-54c peak with the max of 59c across the board.
 
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Removed 120.

OC to 4.2 @ 1.2v

Holding- 60-65c

Peak Temp Running Furmark CPU and GPU Burner, Prime95 and IBT standard about 6min now.-
GPU- 47
CPU0 - 70
CPU1 - 71
CPU2 - 73
CPU3 - 72

Back to stock
Peak Temp Running Furmark CPU and GPU Burner, Prime95 and IBT standard about 6min now.
Holds- 60-65
GPU- 46
CPU0 - 65
CPU1 - 69
CPU2 - 70
CPU3 - 69

*update- Found some air in the line. think I got it out but stock temps are staying in upper 60's running prime. Maybe the 120 was doing more than I thought.
 
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Just an update. Was at a weekend LAN.

With the 120 removed and fans running on 3pin header. The IDLE temps were seen as low as 19C (66F) for the CPU (Room temp wasset at 65F) and a MAX of 58C (136.4F). CPU was at 4.2 with adaptive voltage around 1.174-1.199v. The GPU was stock if I remember correctly.
 
Running a rad with hardly nothing impeding air flow, in free air, as that rear rad, will be offering significant better cooling, than any in chassis rad. In chassis rads, typically are sandwiched and impeded. Fans need to ramp up.

Seems like you can live with the noise from the in chassis rad fans, and temps are low enough. Why would you add that radiator sticking out in the back then? It looks nerdy, and seems like you only use it to lower temps, that really are safe as they are.
 
The "nerdy" reference does fit as I am the "nerd" of everybody I know. "I work in IT and have a computer hobby..."

Anywho. It was more of the just because I have it and could make it fit without much headache. With the Rad/Fan setup as it sits the fans are setup for intake at the top to push air down through the rad so not too much restriction except when it leave the rad.

Surprisingly, the fan noise isn't too bad. Really not much more than a light humm.
 
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