Addatives for water

n00zler

Limp Gawd
Joined
Nov 13, 2002
Messages
344
I've been reading different things, and wanted to know what you here do. Do you use addatives or not? If you do use them, what do you use? Just a biocide or something like Water Wetter? Also, dye or colored tubing if you have a preference.
 
It all comes down to less is more. Pure distilled water is the best for heat transfer but most people put some biocide in to prevent algae growth. So going by that rule colored tubing would always be better then adding dye to your loop. Now i am pretty new with water cooling and just built my first loop a month or so ago so someone correct me if i am wrong.
 
Personally If your going for looks I think Dye looks better and if you have a good setup its not going to effect the efficiency all that much. I usually put a couple drops of PT nuke in and call it good. However Lately I've been using Swiftech Green UV Reactive HydrX Coolant, I have a bunch of it that i got for free from a PC shop that was closing. It has UV dye + Biocide + anti-corrosion.... But it just doesn't cool as well.
 
I've been thinking biocide was the way to go. I'll probably go that route.
 
I am old school (and cheap as the day is long) a gallon of distilled water and a splash of antifreeze is as good as anything IMO. The expensive stuff generally will not hurt anything and be sure to use exactly per the instructions any additive you do use. I will admit I currently have a UV reactive fluid in my main machines loop mainly because it came with the kit but top off with just distilled water. At $10-20 or more or a pint/quart - no thanks.
 
I built my first water cooled rig, a Q6600 on a on a Maximus Formula, just about a year ago and all added was a couple of drops of PT Nuke to distilled water. Except for adding a little water to account for evaporation, I have had to perform no maintenance on my loop. Temps are solid and tubing looks almost as good as new.

And as a personal preference, I am not into the colored tubing or dye in a loop.
 
I have heard may instances of stained tubes and gunk formed in blocks due to precipitate being formed. Therefore, I strongly advice using uv tubes. Do not use dyes.
 
Yeah, I have seen alot of reports where some UV dye has clumped in the water leading to blocked blocks / rads or pumps.

I use a simple mix of 99% distilled water with 1% antifreeze from the local auto store. Not had any problems with this for well over a year and use it in both my loops. Dont use to much antifreeze as it is thick and can slow down the water flow if to much is used.
 
Mainly because it also acts as an anti-fungle (glycol is poisonous).

Its also cheap and a 1L bottle lasts a life time.
 
In my loop, which turned 4 years old last September, I have had 90% distilled water and 10% anti-freeze. I've never had to clean the loop or the water blocks. I've had to add water, of course, but I just add the 10/90 mix and a bit more green dye and call it good.

Never had a single problem with the loop and I've never had to clean it. I have had to partially empty it a couple times to replace the video card water block(s), but the CPU block has remained unchanged for 4 years and is perfectly clean and serviceable.
 
May I know why you are using antifreeze if you don't have mixed metals?

What qwakrz said and I always have a gallon in the garage and there are some silicates that might help the pump bearings last a little longer but I use so little it is unlikely to help much in that regard. Mainly it kills bugs and I buy it anyway for the cars.
 
I've had great luck over the years with distilled water, a touch of isopropyl alcohol and a couple of drops of dye to make it purdy. Ive had zero biological gunk growth nor have I had any kind of material degradation due to the alcohol. I used to add a bit of water wetter years ago but for the past 4-5 years this solution has been working out very well for me.
 
Simple mix of distilled water and 3 drops of PT Nuke biocide -PHN. If you are going the straight distilled water way PHN is for keeping the PH levels neutral as regular PT nuke is acidic. If you are adding coolant or a dye use regular PT Nuke.
 
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