Alphacool Quick Disconnects ID?

M

mastrmndv2

Weaksauce
Joined
Apr 11, 2006
Messages
83
I plan on buying some quick disconnects and was wondering if anybody knew the ID specs of the Alphacool Quick Disconnects found here:

http://www.sharkacomputers.com/alqudicog1th.html

Now what I'm looking for is the smallest ID, which in this case looks to be at the nipple where it disconnects. I'm wondering if anyone knows how large this is as I would like to use it in my WC rig, which is optimized for 3/8 tubing. I would also like to know if anyone who has used this likes it or dislikes it and their reasons for such.
 
They look like a pretty cool idea.. it reminds me the air hose connectors for the powertools.

But darn..! they are expensive $14 each
 
yo, here are your diameters. hope it help. WATER POWER!!!

al-01.jpg
al-02.jpg
al-03.jpg
 
Was that the measurement of the diameter or the circum.?

If thats the diameter than that means that the diameter is roughly 4mm!!! Looks like I won't be using these as it would completely kill my flow, if this is the case.
 
US Plastics carryes some that are MUCh better flow wise, but quick connects are restrictive by nature. The CPS High Flow series is what I bought for my chiller, and my Mag 3 dosent seem to have much of a problem with them.
 
sir_pyro said:
US Plastics carryes some that are MUCh better flow wise, but quick connects are restrictive by nature. The CPS High Flow series is what I bought for my chiller, and my Mag 3 dosent seem to have much of a problem with them.
Click to expand...
can you give the direct link please?
thanks.
 
sir_pyro said:
US Plastics carryes some that are MUCh better flow wise, but quick connects are restrictive by nature. The CPS High Flow series is what I bought for my chiller, and my Mag 3 dosent seem to have much of a problem with them.
Click to expand...

Yea, I was just seeing about these because the ones made by US Plastics are so bulky vs. these are more streamlined but I suppose thats what I'm going to have to do.
 
If flow is important to you make sure you get the straight thru disconnects, you cant unplug them and have it not leak, its mainly useful for disconnecting a radbox from a pc, but they are much less restrictive than the kind which seal.
 
kemist1117 said:
If flow is important to you make sure you get the straight thru disconnects, you cant unplug them and have it not leak, its mainly useful for disconnecting a radbox from a pc, but they are much less restrictive than the kind which seal.
Click to expand...

umm, the whole point of 99% of the use of quick disconnects is to have it not leak (more then a few drops) to use. :confused:

anybody can use disconnects made for air tools, but the male end doesn't close off.
 
Air tool disconnects are restrictive as hell.

High(er) Flow Quick disconnects on US Plastics: Linky

They have another version that has a little more flow (the NS6 and NSH series) but they cost twice as much and are even larger in sive. They also make some smaler versions, but I dont know how well they do.
 
topcat989 said:
umm, the whole point of 99% of the use of quick disconnects is to have it not leak (more then a few drops) to use. :confused:

anybody can use disconnects made for air tools, but the male end doesn't close off.
Click to expand...

Maybe you didnt read: "its mainly useful for disconnecting a radbox from a pc" and i would imagine that many people contemplate getting them because of this reason.

If you dont care about performance and are too lazy to refill your loop then use the kind that seal, but if you care about performance use the straight thru. I have straight thru and my use for them is as i stated; i have a radbox that is separate from my pc. If i ever have the desire to move them then the quick disconnects make my life 100x easier. So what if i have to drain it? you should drain your coolant periodically anyway. The kind i have are the us plastics/colder hi flow straight thru quick disconnects and they are pretty nice. If youre dead set on shut-off then by all means use them, colder makes those as well, but if you look at the data, the shut-off kind are MUCH more restrictive.


heres a bit of data, ive seen curves before but cant find them anyway:
definition of cv:http://www.plastomatic.com/pomfaq.html
cv of all of colders disconnects:http://www.colder.com/Downloads/NewProductLineOverview.pdf

HFC35 series:
Cv~3.94 (56.77) max = straight thru = (highest cv for entire line except for the series below with cv of 13)
Cv~2.50 (36.02) max = one shut off
Cv~2.04 (29.39) max = 2 shut off

the FFC35 Series is the best (much better than all the others) with a cv of 13 its 3/4" tubing though and only straight thru
 
sir_pyro said:
Air tool disconnects are restrictive as hell.

High(er) Flow Quick disconnects on US Plastics: Linky

They have another version that has a little more flow (the NS6 and NSH series) but they cost twice as much and are even larger in sive. They also make some smaler versions, but I dont know how well they do.
Click to expand...

Ok in my case I'm looking for some quick disconnects that allow both ends to be shut off upon pulling them apart. Reason is this is how I will be planning to drain my case. My problem is that I'm having trouble reading through and deciphering the parts on Colders page from the link posted above.

I would like to get some quick disconnects that shutoff on both ends and also have 3/8 barbs on each end as well. Along with this I would like to try and get the ones that have the least amount of flow restriction (even though I know there will be some).

As far as I can tell if I wanted to go this route then I would get:
3/8" Polypropylene In Line Hose Barb Shutoff - 2.82 Lgt - Coupling Body Item#60688

and

3/8" Polypropylene Elbow Hose Barb Shutoff- 1.94 Lgt - Coupling Insert Item#60819

Can anyone confirm this?
 
Just buy two that are the "shut off" type. You'll probably need part number 60688 and 60809 (that's what I bought at least). Dont get the elbow one (unless you really need it), your flow is dead enough, you dont want to add any more restriction to it.

If you want even better performance, the NSH ($30 a fitting, 50% more flow) and and NS6 ($9-$13/ fitting, 10% more flow) are just a little bit better and still seal. The FFH35 shut off seal when you disconnect.
 
Seems as though the NSH type ones wouldn't offer really any restriction to flow (minimal compared to the flow resistance of a maze 4 gpu block) correct?
 
I'd compare it's restriction to that of a Swiftech GPU block my self (each pair). You do realize that would cost you $120 or so though, right? With the HFC ones, it's only going to be $30 - $40.
 
Yea but I figure its will worth it unless I decide to go with the T line setup suggested earlier. I wonder how that T line config. would effect flow though...
 
mastrmndv2 said:
Yea but I figure its will worth it unless I decide to go with the T line setup suggested earlier. I wonder how that T line config. would effect flow though...
Click to expand...

As long as you have a drill to put a hole in your case then the T-line config is cheapest and highest flow option. T-line is basically no resistance to flow and people recommend a t-line over a reservoir all the time.
 
sir_pyro said:
I'd compare it's restriction to that of a Swiftech GPU block my self (each pair). You do realize that would cost you $120 or so though, right? With the HFC ones, it's only going to be $30 - $40.
Click to expand...

Thats probably about right on flow restriction. If i am interpreting the info correctly then the storm has a cv of about 0.75 and a maze 3 has a cv of about 2.25. So the cv of those disconnects isnt terrible for just one pair in line but 2 pair will definitely affect flow a bit. The t-line/wye option with the fillport is still your cheapest/highest flow option though.
 
kemist1117 said:
As long as you have a drill to put a hole in your case then the T-line config is cheapest and highest flow option. T-line is basically no resistance to flow and people recommend a t-line over a reservoir all the time.
Click to expand...
I've never once seen someone recommend a T-line for any reason other than saving space. They're more hastle to bleed with and they are more restrictive.
 
thewhiteguy said:
I've never once seen someone recommend a T-line for any reason other than saving space. They're more hastle to bleed with and they are more restrictive.
Click to expand...

i guess you dont go to xtremesystems.org very much. Almost everyone over there recommends a t-line. I prefer a res myself for ease of use, but the reason a t-line is recommended is that a res is actually somewhat restricted compared to a t-line; with the t-line the flow never stops and returns straight into the pumps intake whereas with a res you are relying on gravity to feed your pump's intake. The theory is similar to why you see performance increase with a modded ddc compared to stock: choking the intake of the pump robs power. In real life there is probably minimal to no effect on flow using a res or a t-line, though a res is definitely easier to bleed. And if you think about it, with any res you are passing through more restrictions than with a t-line, you only have one restriction with the 2 but the res has a minimum of 2, and the flow has to change direction.

Your point still doesnt effect his dilemma though: a wye or a t is definitely less restrictive than the quick disconnects.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top