ASUS Maximus VI Formula

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Vortez put some review lovin' on the ASUS Maximus VI Formula motherboard today and, from the look of that shiny gold award they gave it, I think it's safe to say they liked it.

An initial look over the motherboard will have generate discussion due to the distinct out of the order but stunning ROG Armor. ASUS have furnished Formula with a protective cover on both the front and back side of the board in a bid to encourage better temperature control and to add protection.
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I doubt any reviewers knew at the time, and yes it makes their hybrid block totally useless to anyone with a clue.
 
man i want this board to replace my V Formula, and a 4770k Such a good looking board, glad they gave the block g1/4 fittings. But it's aluminum? Sigh, is it at least coated internally as externally?
 
From what i've read, it is coated inside. But any slight scratch and it could ruin your loop.

Im liking the ASROCK OC Formula z87, but I hate the yellow and gold!!
 
It's anodized, which will not stop galvanic corrosion as I doubt if they're cheaping out on an ALU vrm block that they'd spend enough to have a very high QC on the anodizing to make sure there is zero imperfections on it.

It's just not worth the risk at all.
 
They got praise in this review for using an aluminum waterblock.....

I wonder how much I can trust the rest of the review. Swapping out the block isn't a huge deal if someone made one for it, but it is annoying.
 
I'm surprised no one has said anything about the capacitors. They couldn't use all solid caps? They did on the Z87-Deluxe (I know cause I have it). That just pisses me off. And don't get me started on the aluminum block! I have had aluminum parts that were anodized in a loop. The anodize doesn't hold up. Now this does depend on the type of fluid being used. I don't know. Time will tell. Sucks I really want to like this board!
 
Stevennoland said:
I'm surprised no one has said anything about the capacitors. They couldn't use all solid caps? They did on the Z87-Deluxe (I know cause I have it). That just pisses me off. And don't get me started on the aluminum block! I have had aluminum parts that were anodized in a loop. The anodize doesn't hold up. Now this does depend on the type of fluid being used. I don't know. Time will tell. Sucks I really want to like this board!
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I was going to get the board and replace the block. But in these pictures on here it does not look like it is removable? looks like it is built into the armor?
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/asus_maximus_vi_formula_review,4.html
http://www.pcper.com/news/Motherboards/ASUS-Launches-ROG-Maximus-VI-Formula-Z87-Gaming-Motherboard
 
Stevennoland said:
I'm surprised no one has said anything about the capacitors. They couldn't use all solid caps? They did on the Z87-Deluxe (I know cause I have it). That just pisses me off. And don't get me started on the aluminum block! I have had aluminum parts that were anodized in a loop. The anodize doesn't hold up. Now this does depend on the type of fluid being used. I don't know. Time will tell. Sucks I really want to like this board!
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Which caps are you referring to that are not solid caps?
 
Justintoxicated said:
I was going to get the board and replace the block. But in these pictures on here it does not look like it is removable? looks like it is built into the armor?
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/asus_maximus_vi_formula_review,4.html
http://www.pcper.com/news/Motherboards/ASUS-Launches-ROG-Maximus-VI-Formula-Z87-Gaming-Motherboard
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http://youtu.be/nUGXIONBD9s?t=5m45s

The armor and the actual block is separate. Watch the video. Shows a teardown of everything.
 
nob0dey said:
http://youtu.be/nUGXIONBD9s?t=5m45s

The armor and the actual block is separate. Watch the video. Shows a teardown of everything.
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Your right it's separate! But damnit I don't know if you will be able to put the armor back on with aftermarket water block on there... The armor still needs to go over it. Maybe a dremel would take care of it, or I guess you could just remove the armor completely. The part that overlays the waterblock looks like it adds quite a bit of the strength though, and that would probably void the warranty.

After watching the video I'm not sure the board is safe to run without the armor since it also works as a heatsink...

I really want to like this board but it's disappointing me that I would not be able to add watercooling easily, especially to a board designed for it! In fact they made it even harder to watercool rather than easier! I feel bad for any newbs who buy this and destroy their loop with this thing.

Still waiting to buy a board, I want the features of this one (minus the lame waterblock) but I want something I can watercool like the hero. Maybe I'll get it and just leave it air cooled, just that it will be a waste of the 2 480 radiators I just purchased.
 
Stevennoland said:
All the ones by the expansion slots and the sound chip. I see black with a round silver top. Those are not solid!
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I'm fairly certain those are for audio are are supposed to not be solid. There are a few reasons that SP (solid polymer) caps are not preferred for audio, but they are realllllly technical and have to do mostly with ESR and high (as in higher than audio) frequency behavior.
 
prtzlboy said:
I'm fairly certain those are for audio are are supposed to not be solid. There are a few reasons that SP (solid polymer) caps are not preferred for audio, but they are realllllly technical and have to do mostly with ESR and high (as in higher than audio) frequency behavior.
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I did not consider that. Hmmm. Like I said, I'm no expert. Then, the only complaint I really have is the water block material.

It's funny, I just got done tearing down an H2O build I did some time back that has a custom made 5.25" bay reservior made of 6061 aluminum. I opened it up expecting the anodize to have completely dissappeared. To my surprise, it was still intact. The color of the anodize was black by the way. No way of knowing if galvanic reaction is still possible.
 
Stevennoland said:
I did not consider that. Hmmm. Like I said, I'm no expert. Then, the only complaint I really have is the water block material.

It's funny, I just got done tearing down an H2O build I did some time back that has a custom made 5.25" bay reservior made of 6061 aluminum. I opened it up expecting the anodize to have completely dissappeared. To my surprise, it was still intact. The color of the anodize was black by the way. No way of knowing if galvanic reaction is still possible.
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Were you running anti corrosive fluid? Maybe it had some non anodized coating on it? I would expect the copper blocks to show more damage than the anodizing if any is present.
 
Justintoxicated said:
Were you running anti corrosive fluid? Maybe it had some non anodized coating on it? I would expect the copper blocks to show more damage than the anodizing if any is present.
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Justintoxicated, I was using mct-40. A non-conductive fluid I purchased from Danger Den a while back. It doesn't state 'anti-corrosive' anywhere on the bottle. It was a little like anti-freeze. It was something you didn't want on your skin, but is sure was non-conductive. Had a spill or two, and no damage.
 
Stevennoland said:
Justintoxicated, I was using mct-40. A non-conductive fluid I purchased from Danger Den a while back. It doesn't state 'anti-corrosive' anywhere on the bottle. It was a little like anti-freeze. It was something you didn't want on your skin, but is sure was non-conductive. Had a spill or two, and no damage.
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That could be it, probably anti corrosive. You could run something like that or antifreeze with this block and probably not have too many problems, of course you will also get worse temps with everything else in the loop. Just not good practice but I'm sure yo could make it work.
 
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