ASUS Official Z68 Chipset Motherboards - Support Thread

kaptn_nemo said:
hi all , first timer here so go easy :)
have a new first build which seems to be having some bad symptoms ... new to all things regarding oc and such ... so i'm not going to play with any settings that i dont know about .... which is pretty much everything !!!
the system is :
i7 2600k
p8z68 deluxe
2 x 4gb corsair dominator gt
2 x gigabyte gtx 590 (running in quad sli)
ocz vertex 3 ssd 120 gb (boot drive)
600 gb velociraptor (storage)
swiftec external radiator water cooling
corsair ax1200 psu
first up .. installed windows 7 64bit and all drivers ai suite an so on and everything was going well . decided to give the thing a workout and ran ai suite auto tune to extreme and gained a 43% increase .. ran 3dmark and got some good results , was very impressed !! system ran fine all day all night .. till the next day when i got home from work . turned it on . fine . ran for 10 minutes then shut down ..:( ... power and reset buttons on the mobo were flashing ... but not in a good way .. unplugged and let it rest for a while .... turned it back on after about half an hour and upon boot got overclock failed msg ... .. doh !!! .. reset bios to default and ran for a while .. all good .... :) next day tried auto tune to fast .. thinking this wont be so bad ... worked well ran all night no probs !!! next day , start , boot , ran for half an hour then it shut down again :( this time no power or reset lights flashing at all ... nuffin ... unplugged power and let it sit for a while ... then a while more , took about an hour before power and reset lights came back on . next start up entered bios and reset to default again ... all well ... for about an hour . system shut down again :( ... internet search on trusty ol laptop ... found this site and started reading :) .... wealth of info ... good stuff .. just a wee bit over my head though :) ... had the sleep problem ... and the power up shut down power up before boot thingie ... next boot i disabled the pll overvoltage thing and went into os to change power settings to never sleep never hibernate hoping that will curb the sleep problem ... *fingers crossed* over the last couple of days the system boots up ok and runs , but it still shuts down at random times ... with increasing time before the mobo seems to "relight" the power/reset buttons ... and last night not at all ... more than a few hours hours ... i gave up and went to sleep :( ... tonight , home from work , power/reset buttons are on ... so just thought i'd pop by to see if this think tank has any ideas for me before i hit the power button ... it's an expensive build and the last thing i want is a pricey ornament ... any and all help will be welcome .... thanks guys :)


tiny update ... power and reset buttons on mobo have turned off without even turning the system on .... about about an hour or so after plugging it back in ... starting to get a not happy feeling ...:(
Click to expand...

Looks as a PSU issue to me... But to be sure. When the power goes off, do you unplug the PSU from the outlet?
 
Kubsnazx said:
I'd like to as if anyone has the following symptom:
Even if only on occasion, when powering up your pc for the 1st time, each day, does it shutdown after about 10 seconds then turn back on again? There is no error message or anything and everthing seems normal once it boots properly
Click to expand...

error-id10t said:
You've probably got BCLK changing and/or more likely, AI Suite installed. Some component of it causes this behavior (only with cold boot not reboots etc).
Click to expand...

any more intel on this issue, any remedies as such?:confused:
 
Kubsnazx said:
any more intel on this issue, any remedies as such?:confused:
Click to expand...

I never bothered to check which part does it, but it's not the whole AI Suite. I have Fan Xpert and ASUS Update installed and it doesn't do it - I think it's either TurboV or VRM that does it... remove them one by one and see which makes it behave that way?
 
Ok I've ran into this problem again - Multi will not go past 45. I posted about this same problem while back and at the time I reset CMOS, pulled the battery out, reset BIOS etc etc - nothing helped. I proved that it was stuck (and not the tools simply being wrong) by running the AUTO OC which got me to 6.4Ghz supposedly which is of course impossible - It then suddenly started working again after the 3rd or 4th time resetting BIOS.

I now have this same thing. Last night it was going to 47 as it should, this morning around 9 hours later, it's now reaching 45 only and nothing allows it to go past it (except raising BCLK) - why does the Multi get into this situation where it can't go beyond 45??

add: things I've done again to try and fix this:
- Reset BIOS to defaults and re-did the settings
- Reset of CMOS using the jumper and re-did the settings
- Reinstalled chipset
- Reinstalled IME driver
- Setting Multi to 44 gives me the highest Multi of 44, so it's not completely retarted
- Changing PLL overvolt to Enabled / Disabled changes nothing
- Changing Spread Spectrum Enabed / Disabled changes nothing - it does enforce a shutdown after saving the BIOS implying it knows a change has been made
- Put offset volts to AUTO where upon it stupidly gives me 1.48vcore under load but still restricts the highest Multi to 45.
- Pulled out the GPU so I can get to the battery, pulled battery out and used the jumper to reset CMOS (confirmed completed via BIOS as date/time was reset).
- Installed AI Suite TurboV to see what it thought - all ok up to 45 Multi x 103 BCLK. It kept implying Multi was raising beyond that but all tools confirmed otherwise (see earlier example - running at 6.4Ghz supposedly).
- Removed AI Suite completely (only had Fan Xpert and ASUS Update previously).
- Set Multi to 45 and raised BCLK to 104.5 = 4.7Ghz no problems.

I went away from SF based SSDs as I'm tired of troubleshooting only to get a retarted BIOS - same behaviour as the previous 'official' BIOS.
 
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VeauX said:
Looks as a PSU issue to me... But to be sure. When the power goes off, do you unplug the PSU from the outlet?
Click to expand...

yeah i do unplug ... power supply was tested with my friends tester before first boot and was fine ... will go get my own tester today and do another check before power up ... thanks for the reply :)

update : thanks VeauX ... tested and seemed ok correct voltages and stable .. ran the system and it shut down as soon as windows started , plugged the tester back in to psu immeadiately and got nothing ....!!! thanks again for your help :)
 
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@error-id10t
Interesting problem.
After reading your post, a few random thoughts come to mind

>Previous experimentation with CPU voltage has caused leakage damage. Warm already working goes, long time cold does not.
Heres a discuss about leakage on AMD chips.
http://www.techpowerup.com/35743/AMD-s-65nm-Process-CPU-s-Leak-.html
Note C states are also important here.
So the only way to test this is to put YOUR CPU in another ASUS SB mobo. Alternately you could RMA your CPU to Intel, they made $4.2 billion in last 3 months - they can afford it.
>There seems to be something possibly related going on with the bios chip. A cheap way to test this point is to send $15 to ASUS for a new one - nice to have anyways. Then just use it as is - do not flash it. And extreme care must be used to pry the old one out equally to not bend the 8 legs. the initial "break" force is the prob.

Of course, theres the possibility you only have a 45 capable chip, and 47X is only intermittently possible
And during testing, AI II Suite must be uninstalled i would think
 
cisco guy said:
@error-id10t
Interesting problem.
After reading your post, a few random thoughts come to mind

>Previous experimentation with CPU voltage has caused leakage damage. Warm already working goes, long time cold does not.
Heres a discuss about leakage on AMD chips.
http://www.techpowerup.com/35743/AMD-s-65nm-Process-CPU-s-Leak-.html
Note C states are also important here.
So the only way to test this is to put YOUR CPU in another ASUS SB mobo. Alternately you could RMA your CPU to Intel, they made $4.2 billion in last 3 months - they can afford it.
>There seems to be something possibly related going on with the bios chip. A cheap way to test this point is to send $15 to ASUS for a new one - nice to have anyways. Then just use it as is - do not flash it. And extreme care must be used to pry the old one out equally to not bend the 8 legs. the initial "break" force is the prob.

Of course, theres the possibility you only have a 45 capable chip, and 47X is only intermittently possible
And during testing, AI II Suite must be uninstalled i would think
Click to expand...

Thanks for that, looks interesting though I don't believe it applies as the chip can do 4.7Ghz @ 1.38vcore even when this problem happens (I just use BCLK in that case). It's only happened twice and again, it has disappeared effectively the same way it came - from nowhere.

So the happy / weird news; it's back to normal. Why(?).. I have no idea. None of the attempts I posted earlier helped which all required multiple reboots / computer turned off/on but now after a reboot its clocking 47 Multi again.
 
Oh, thats a dif story
>just curious, what HSF and thermal paste you using?
>also, what max temp do you have set in bios/monitor?
>could try in cntrl panel/power/hi perf/processor power management/sys cooling - active
min max @100%
 
kaptn_nemo said:
yeah i do unplug ... power supply was tested with my friends tester before first boot and was fine ... will go get my own tester today and do another check before power up ... thanks for the reply :)

update : thanks VeauX ... tested and seemed ok correct voltages and stable .. ran the system and it shut down as soon as windows started , plugged the tester back in to psu immeadiately and got nothing ....!!! thanks again for your help :)
Click to expand...

You're welcome. You'll have to replace the PSU then. Good luck.
 
SpinCykle said:
Does anyone have any ideas about my Intel hd graphics driver issue?
Click to expand...

Do you have iGPU enabled in BIOS? I remember getting errors trying to install the drivers when I didn't have it enabled. BTW: which program are you using for Quicksync - I've got MediaEspresso but I'm trying to find one which allows higher bitrate than 13Mbps?

cisco guy said:
Oh, thats a dif story
>just curious, what HSF and thermal paste you using?
>also, what max temp do you have set in bios/monitor?
>could try in cntrl panel/power/hi perf/processor power management/sys cooling - active
min max @100%
Click to expand...

I've got Silver Arrow with AS5. I'm using High Performance mode with Active cooling policy and 100% min/max process state. Running Intel Burn Test @ Maximum it reaches 72 degrees on the hottest cores (1 and 2).
 
Anyone know what disk unlocker is? Found it on the Asus driver page...

Thanks.

Also been trying to uninstall or update AIsuite to the latest version but can't. The AIsuite package will not start (did only once but I cancelled out before running it since I wanted to do a clean reboot first) and can not uninstall the previous version even under safe mode. My uninstall requests just get ignored and since the last run of the AISuite installer I get an error at boot about AISuite. Going to try to surgically cut this package out of my system. What a pain...

Thanks again

Edit: A google search provided a solution which was to run the AI Suite Patcher. Asus why does this have to be this difficult?!
 
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davidm71 said:
Anyone know what disk unlocker is? Found it on the Asus driver page...

Thanks.

Also been trying to uninstall or update AIsuite to the latest version but can't. The AIsuite package will not start
Click to expand...

I've read quite a few people with this problem, thankfully I haven't had problems but note that you need both the 32 and 40 versions to get the latest versions - 40 had an updated version for ASUS Update while 30 had newer versions for FanXpert and Probe (don't use others so not sure on the rest).
 
Figured it out as you have to use Ai patcher available on the p67 support download page first to get it working. I skipped straight to version 40 that was available on the download page. Seems needlessly complicated..

Thanks
 
error-id10t said:
Do you have iGPU enabled in BIOS? I remember getting errors trying to install the drivers when I didn't have it enabled. BTW: which program are you using for Quicksync - I've got MediaEspresso but I'm trying to find one which allows higher bitrate than 13Mbps?
Click to expand...

I do have iGPU enabled in the bios w/ PCIE/PCI as the Initiate setting. I actually managed to get the media accelerator driver installed.

1. Installed Windows Media Center for Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit N
2. Redownloaded Media Accelorator driver form intels' website
3. Cleared RTC (cmos) and set default bios settings minus the hot swap for my SSD
4. Unchecked the box WinSAT Aero theme before installing the driver

This worked. But so far I cant decode/encode w/ IQS. Currently using DVDFab and It's still a no go. I downloaded the trials for Media converter 7 which under the hardware acceleration tab only gives me the option for nvidia cuda. Then tried the media espresso trial and it will not tell you what "hardware" acceleration it is using. A 25GB mt2s file ripped into h.264 mp4 takes about 55 minutes w/ Media Espresso. I can do that faster with Cuda+Software in DVDFab. Out of the three programs DVDFab is far superior if your looking for something better.
 
SpinCykle said:
This worked. But so far I cant decode/encode w/ IQS. Currently using DVDFab and It's still a no go. I downloaded the trials for Media converter 7 which under the hardware acceleration tab only gives me the option for nvidia cuda. Then tried the media espresso trial and it will not tell you what "hardware" acceleration it is using. A 25GB mt2s file ripped into h.264 mp4 takes about 55 minutes w/ Media Espresso. I can do that faster with Cuda+Software in DVDFab. Out of the three programs DVDFab is far superior if your looking for something better.
Click to expand...

With MediaEspresso you'll see Quicksync if it's enabled (top left corner). If it's not there, but you have hardware acceleration on, it's using CUDA and if you remove that it'll use the CPU (fastest to slowest method).

Using your example, it converts a 21GB MT2S file to MP4 (h264 / 1080p with quality setting [not performance]) in ~28mins on my system.

I have tried both badaboom2 which is meant to have Quicksync but could not get it to use it, while DVDFab for me has a bug - it only creates an audio file when I enable Quicksync (without quicksync, it creates the movie just fine). Once you get quicksyc / virtu working, will be interested to hear if this keeps working for you or if you'll have the same problem I have.

I'm personally a fan of quicksync / virtu, but it lacks software support still. It's great to convert stuff for everything you can think of - except say a 54inch Plasma which you stream to, for this quicksync needs a higher bitrate to retain quality (much faster than x264 which uses CPU only but quality isn't as good at this size so at this time it's not really an option).
 
error-id10t said:
With MediaEspresso you'll see Quicksync if it's enabled (top left corner). If it's not there, but you have hardware acceleration on, it's using CUDA and if you remove that it'll use the CPU (fastest to slowest method).

Using your example, it converts a 21GB MT2S file to MP4 (h264 / 1080p with quality setting [not performance]) in ~28mins on my system.

I have tried both badaboom2 which is meant to have Quicksync but could not get it to use it, while DVDFab for me has a bug - it only creates an audio file when I enable Quicksync (without quicksync, it creates the movie just fine). Once you get quicksyc / virtu working, will be interested to hear if this keeps working for you or if you'll have the same problem I have.

I'm personally a fan of quicksync / virtu, but it lacks software support still. It's great to convert stuff for everything you can think of - except say a 54inch Plasma which you stream to, for this quicksync needs a higher bitrate to retain quality (much faster than x264 which uses CPU only but quality isn't as good at this size so at this time it's not really an option).
Click to expand...


Mind if I take a step back here and verify some EFI / BIOS settings. Just to make sure I'm not creating my own problem, because I think I am.

Old EFI settings:

Initiate Graphics Adapter - PCIE/PCI
iGPU Memory - 64M
Render Standy - Enabled
iGpu Multi-Monitor - Enabled

DVI cable connected to discrete video card

These settings is what i was having troubles with originally. It should also be noted I have lucid logix installed and up to date. However I was only seeing 3 program options under the games tab, not the full list of 100+ described on the site.

Thinking it had to be a driver/hardware issue from my end I thumbed through some bios settings and made my "initiate graphics adapter" - iGPU. Then hoooked my DVI cable up to the on-board DVI port.

I read an article stating iGPU must be the primary vga adapter for IQS to function properly thus the invention of Lucid Logix. Software that enables a secondary discrete VGA adapter to be used for gaming. While IQS can function in the background.

IQS is functioning now just at a turtles pace. 13-14 FPS decoding BD content for a backed up movie (BDMV,Certificate) folder. Looks like a DVDFab software problem from this point.

Another thing is the screen resolution of the UEFI/ Bios during boot and use. While using the on-board DVI resolution seems to be cropped on the left and right sides of the screen. Is this normal operation?
 
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I just replaced my cooler h70-to -H80. I also added a HDD. Now on reboot I get the follow wierd issues.


1) I dont see the UEFI screen anymore when the computer boots up. It is black and then all of a sudden windows is up and running fine. With one exceptions which is issue 2...

2) I get a error message from ATI catylast that say it could not run and the I need to enable ATI in the display controller, or that I need to update the driver. This confuse me as it worked fine before.

Oddly when I restarted the computer aftetr replacing the cooler it started recognizing USB items and looking for driver like they had never been plugged in before.

When I swapped the cooler I just loosened the mobo screws so I could pull the board up a little to slip out the old back plate and place the new one on.

This seems odd. any thoughts. I can get to the UEFI screen anymore. I hit DEL after restating it and the screen just stays black? this locks it up. Its like the UEFI does not exist any more. but the computer runs!
 
@jjustinnia11

Man thats some crazy stuff. Constantly amazes me how much off the wall madness that can happen with this rollout.
It would appear something happened during watercool block changeover. And you couldnt actually see what was involved since you didnt take out mobo completely.
Was your PSU still plugged in during change? (trickle voltage) Back bracket might be touching something
Strange that the GUI part of the bios doesnt work.
The four most obvious things to check are:
>Take out mobo and see whats going on in back, make sure it clears anything electrical. The H-80 might not be ASUS SB ready?
>CMOS reset with bat out and PSU unplugged from wall
>Reflash bios from USB FAT32 stick using ASUS bupdater tool (freeDOS), 8 letters only in biosname.rom and see if it throws an error.
>Install regular HSF and see what happens
 
@jjustinnia11 Sounds like being too lazy to remove the mobo means you may have bricked your board
 
cisco guy said:
@jjustinnia11

Man thats some crazy stuff. Constantly amazes me how much off the wall madness that can happen with this rollout.
It would appear something happened during watercool block changeover. And you couldnt actually see what was involved since you didnt take out mobo completely.
Was your PSU still plugged in during change? (trickle voltage) Back bracket might be touching something
Strange that the GUI part of the bios doesnt work.
The four most obvious things to check are:
>Take out mobo and see whats going on in back, make sure it clears anything electrical. The H-80 might not be ASUS SB ready?
>CMOS reset with bat out and PSU unplugged from wall
>Reflash bios from USB FAT32 stick using ASUS bupdater tool (freeDOS), 8 letters only in biosname.rom and see if it throws an error.
>Install regular HSF and see what happens
Click to expand...

I have a HAF X with a cut out for the back plate. So I could see . The left side is slightly obscured but not by much. I puled the power cable out of the PSU-ie. no current. The one thing I can think of is I see now that the back plate should be rotated 90 degree as there is a cut out for the CPU screws. The instruction say nothing about this. I happened upon this on the we while researching. Anyway there is a plastic barrier so I would think it should not be a problem as it should be insulted, but you never know. Corsair twice now has not warned that there is an orientation to their backplate when mounting. You kinda have to see.

Really annoying, especially if they cause me to brick my mobo because of their lack of instructions.

But it still boots to window, just skip the uefi. Is that possible?????
 
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Like I said, thats crazy shit. Its def bios related - thats where your GUI C++ code is. You may have shorted something or pinched one of the mobo five layers, or scraped a trace.. You ignored my advice to try a reflash the bios with any vers. - even same

I dont think you bricked the board, you can always get another bios chip for $15

And bracket should be rotated 180 degrees (not 90), and there are no screws - they are rivets. It may be sitting on an angle on CPU brace plate which maybe cause the shorting issue.
 
cisco guy said:
Like I said, thats crazy shit. Its def bios related - thats where your GUI C++ code is. You may have shorted something or pinched one of the mobo five layers, or scraped a trace.. You ignored my advice to try a reflash the bios with any vers. - even same

I dont think you bricked the board, you can always get another bios chip for $15

And bracket should be rotated 180 degrees (not 90), and there are no screws - they are rivets. It may be sitting on an angle on CPU brace plate which maybe cause the shorting issue.
Click to expand...

I did not ignore your advice just missed. I will try.

And it is 90 degrees. The nuts on the brackets slide so I obviously got it to do something it was not intended to do. This may be a short issue. Would that resolve after I reseat the bracket? thoughts?

Who think I should take the mobo out to do this?
 
You keep asking questions about things no one can answer until you DO something, right?

Once again, like doing a very basic full CMOS reset AFTER you have made sure the HS bracket is useable for this mobo. You already said you had a regular HS to try, why do you need all this rehash of your options

Based on what happened already, asking whether you should take the mobo out THIS time is a bit silly, right?

Whatever electrically you did to screw up the bios chip code may or may not be irreversible. You will have to flash again (with asus bupdater) and see if it errors out. You may need to use the /b switch to also redo the bootblock at the same time.

Enough with the thinking about what might happen - just do it! Too much talk and not enough action.
 
cisco guy said:
You keep asking questions about things no one can answer until you DO something, right?

Once again, like doing a very basic full CMOS reset AFTER you have made sure the HS bracket is useable for this mobo. You already said you had a regular HS to try, why do you need all this rehash of your options

Based on what happened already, asking whether you should take the mobo out THIS time is a bit silly, right?

Whatever electrically you did to screw up the bios chip code may or may not be irreversible. You will have to flash again (with asus bupdater) and see if it errors out. You may need to use the /b switch to also redo the bootblock at the same time.

Enough with the thinking about what might happen - just do it! Too much talk and not enough action.
Click to expand...

I was kidding when I asked about removing the mobo. it was meant as sarcastic and rhetorical. glad you got it...

Unfortunetly I get home late from work typically so I will have to wait till I have the time. Probably on Thursday...Appreciate the advice. I will let you know what come from ACTION.
 
ok. I figured out the problem. I made a bone head mistake in reconnecting my system. I am not even gonna say what. all works great now. Mobo is fine.
 
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yes you are gonna say, or my posting effort is wasted, and no one can learn from your mistake. PM me if its that embarrassing. I want to know what "connection mistake" shuts down bios graphics during boot.
 
He certainly connected the screen to the incorrect plug iGPU when dGPU was chosen into the bios ... So at post the system initialize the wrong adapter and it's just until windows that things correct themselves... I'm taking a bet on this one!
 
VeauX said:
He certainly connected the screen to the incorrect plug iGPU when dGPU was chosen into the bios ... So at post the system initialize the wrong adapter and it's just until windows that things correct themselves... I'm taking a bet on this one!
Click to expand...

So what do you win...
 
howdy, folks. I just got this build yesterday:

i7 2600K
P8Z68-V Motherboard
CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB DDR3 1600
I've also tried this RAM: G.Skill 4GB DDR3 1333
Corsair 750W
GTX 460 (2 for SLI)

I assembled it, turned it on, and got a red CPU led. Plugged in the 8-pin power cable and that light went away but the DRAM led lit up and the computer would not post at all; ie, no video whatsoever, can't get to BIOS.

I tried combinations of 1, 2, and 4 sticks in all the different DIMM slots (mostly in the 2nd one as the instructions recommend) and did the MemOK! test but to no avail. I tried combinations of the second set of RAM sticks I linked above, too.

I also tried various video ports on both cards, the DVI port on the motherboard itself, and disconnected the video cards. All the fans in the case turn on as well as the HD and DVD drive. Does anyone have any ideas? I got it from Newegg so I'm not worried about RMAing it if I have to but I would love to get it working now.
 
Just a heads-up for OCers:

I tried be clever with my P8Z68 Deluxe and basically tried to run the lowest possible vcore for 4,4Ghz with my i7 2600k. So I set Vcore to Offset and - 0.015. So that I would get a nice low CPU voltage and run cooler.

Everything seemed fine with Prime95, no lockups. I then proceeded to play Assassin's Creed: Brotherhood and got regular BSODs with Windows error code 0x000001e. Didn't seem related to GPU stress or what the game was doing at all, but the BSODs only happened during these gaming sessions. Sometimes after 2 hours, sometimes after 10 minutes.
I then set the VCORE back to AUTO and the offset to + AUTO and haven't had a BSOD since. Seems the CPU needed more voltage during certain parts of the game, couldn't get the juice and BAM, Windows gave me the BSOD. I read about this pretty generic error code BSOD and it seems to be widespread like mad. Maybe this helps some people with the same problem to nail the cause down.
In conclusion: Sometimes it's better to leave things on AUTO than to follow l33t OC guides.
I'm now on 4,5Ghz Auto, Auto Offset +, the Vcore is a bit higher than before, the CPU runs a bit warmer but it is a hell of a lot more stable.
 
jjustinia11 said:
So what do you win...
Click to expand...

Nothing really. Just the assurance that my deduction skills are not that off. I've build Rigs for 15 years now and most of the issues I got always have been due to silly stuff I made, bad connections, dust in connections etc... Never with bad components. That's a lesson learnt, always test your rig off the case, always test it with the bare minimum of components connected, that alone would resolve 99% of your issues.
 
I bought an asus p8z68-v and it seems to run fine for the most part, however the power-on switch led on the board is always on, is this normal? in the manual it says it should be off when you want to switch parts..
 
Kubsnazx said:
I'd like to as if anyone has the following symptom:
Even if only on occasion, when powering up your pc for the 1st time, each day, does it shutdown after about 10 seconds then turn back on again? There is no error message or anything and everthing seems normal once it boots properly
Click to expand...
I had the same problem. I went into the bios under sata configerations. Notice that the hot plug on my ssd hd was enabled. Disabled it and started booting fine. This worked for me.

Chuck 71
 
VeauX said:
He certainly connected the screen to the incorrect plug iGPU when dGPU was chosen into the bios ... So at post the system initialize the wrong adapter and it's just until windows that things correct themselves... I'm taking a bet on this one!
Click to expand...

Ahhh - thnx for that
On board graphics was not even on my radar, could not grasp how that could happen. Nice work!!!
 
MrDelish said:
howdy, folks. I just got this build yesterday:

I assembled it, turned it on, and got a red CPU led. Plugged in the 8-pin power cable and that light went away but the DRAM led lit up and the computer would not post at all; ie, no video whatsoever, can't get to BIOS.

I tried combinations of 1, 2, and 4 sticks in all the different DIMM slots (mostly in the 2nd one as the instructions recommend) and did the MemOK! test but to no avail. I tried combinations of the second set of RAM sticks I linked above, too.

I also tried various video ports on both cards, the DVI port on the motherboard itself, and disconnected the video cards. All the fans in the case turn on as well as the HD and DVD drive. Does anyone have any ideas? I got it from Newegg so I'm not worried about RMAing it if I have to but I would love to get it working now.
Click to expand...

Well, the basic things to do are stuff like -
Full CMOS reset with bat out and PSU unplugged for 20min
(you did have red light because of no aux 12V power)
Take mobo out of case and make sure those RAM sticks are DOWN fully - some are hellacious tight
Try XMP prof in bios (unclear if you can get in)
And of course, never install/uninstall RAM until power off , PSU rocker on 0, and ON button pressed until lights go out
Finally, you must VERY carefully look in CPU socket to make sure you dont have bent pin
 
chains_of_andromeda said:
I bought an asus p8z68-v and it seems to run fine for the most part, however the power-on switch led on the board is always on, is this normal? in the manual it says it should be off when you want to switch parts..
Click to expand...

Yes its normal
They say that because they dont want you pulling things like RAM with the PSU trickle voltage still on. No light means PSU is off and caps are discharged, either slowly or quickly when you push in and hold power button down with PSU off
 
What is the difference between P8Z68-V Pro and P8Z68-V Deluxe? I read the website but still couldn't figure it out lol.
 
You couldn't ? Hm, then your reading skills are pretty poor.

1) Deluxe has no graphics outputs, they have different back panel connections.
2) Deluxe has one extra power-eSATA compared to PRO.
3) Deluxe has one extra ethernet port
4) Deluxe has ALC889, PRO has ALC892
5) they have different FireWire controllers, Deluxe has one FireWire at backpanel.
6) they have different USB3 controllers (Deluxe has NEC, PRO has ASMedia)
 
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