Asus VG248QE 144hz 3D Vision 2: The Official Thread

Originally Posted by Cr4zy View Post

Yeah the file will be saved into C:\Windows\System32\spool\drivers\color and then people can load them with by right-click desktop > screen resolution > advanced settings > color management > color management > select appropriate display device in list > check "use my settings for this device" and if the file is in the correct place click add and select it from the list and set it as default (if it's not the only one)
 
Also do note that icc was created under the Standard preset on the monitor at 18 brightness and default contrast (80) non-lightboost

I have just started testing lightboost and it tints it a little red so might throw a second icc up for lightboost users depends how well it works out!
 
So while trying to measure input lag I got frustrated with the current capabilities. I can't buy/use smtt 2.0 right now and based on the odd results (everything in a multiple of 10) I don't think I can use the classic stopwatch application in Windows 8.

I just ordered a Casio 1000fps camera (EX-ZR100, this ought to be fun :) ) to approach testing vs. the FW900 differently, but thus far I must say I'm impressed. Unfortunately, though, my initial tests (with caveats listed above) have shown input lag falling anywhere between 1 and 3 frames vs. the FW900. Pixel persistence is beautiful and unmatched by any LCD I've ever seen, right along with what Mark and everyone else has been saying.

Has anyone talked to Thomas Thiemann? (SMTT author) I'd like to give him some $$ for his latency testing program but he isn't taking it right now. :) Could anyone else help me with a not-for-commercial use license?
 
Besides those Spyder4 profiles, is there a list of generally accepted best non-Lightboost settings?

I'm coming from a Viewsonic vx2235wm, are the colors going to look worse than that?
 
I just ordered a Casio 1000fps camera (EX-ZR100, this ought to be fun :) ) to approach testing vs. the FW900 differently, but thus far I must say I'm impressed. Unfortunately, though, my initial tests (with caveats listed above) have shown input lag falling anywhere between 1 and 3 frames vs. the FW900.
The BENQ seems to have less input lag than the ASUS, but I'm pretty curious how much advantage the zero motion blur effect gives you. I have heard from people that they have a better advantage (faster reaction time) with LightBoost even with the input lag. Also remember to test with LightBoost=100% and LightBoost=10%, too.

Pixel persistence is beautiful and unmatched by any LCD I've ever seen, right along with what Mark and everyone else has been saying.
If you're talking about LightBoost, I should note that pixel persistence is still there -- it's just hidden by turning off the backlight between refreshes. A more generic terminology is "pixel response".

Has anyone talked to Thomas Thiemann? (SMTT author) I'd like to give him some $$ for his latency testing program but he isn't taking it right now. :) Could anyone else help me with a not-for-commercial use license?
I am developing a freely-constructable Arduino input lag meter. It will have 0.1ms precision when comparing between displays. I'm focussed on other projects at the moment, but keep an eye out.
 
not reading through 17 pages but do I need to worry about this lighboost stuff? I am just looking for a good gaming monitor and have no interest in 3D gaming at all.
 
not reading through 17 pages but do I need to worry about this lighboost stuff? I am just looking for a good gaming monitor and have no interest in 3D gaming at all.

Well to take full advantage of this monitor you should try to keep you frames above 144 FPS .... other than that most ppl getting this monitor like it a lot and if your an FPS player tthis is probably the best your going to get besides a CRT
 
Well to take full advantage of this monitor you should try to keep you frames above 144 FPS .... other than that most ppl getting this monitor like it a lot and if your an FPS player tthis is probably the best your going to get besides a CRT
well that is going to be impossible in any modern game unless running low settings. heck there are many games that I cant even stay above 60 fps with many settings reduced. all the gpu power in the world will not fix all of those games either because there are many spots that are cpu limited.
 
Well to take full advantage of this monitor you should try to keep you frames above 144 FPS .... other than that most ppl getting this monitor like it a lot and if your an FPS player tthis is probably the best your going to get besides a CRT
You don't need LightBoost if you don't want it, but, some clarifications:
-- LightBoost does not work at 144Hz, but at the range of 100Hz-120Hz
-- 120 fps with LightBoost is much clearer/sharper motion than 144 fps without LightBoost. Same reason why CRT 60fps@60Hz has clearer motion than LCD 120fps@120Hz
-- To take advantage of LightBoost, you only need 120fps@120Hz, not 144fps@144Hz.
-- LightBoost 120 Hz has 75%+ less motion blur than non-LightBoost 120 Hz (~4x clearer motion), and a minimum of 85% less motion blur than non-LightBoost 60 Hz (~7x clearer motion). Just going from 60Hz->144Hz refresh is only 2.4x clearer motion.

It is hard to have high framerates in modern games without a 680SLI or 690, but with games such as TF2, BF3, Quake Live, Portal 2, Counter Strike, and others, with just a single 680 -- even maxed out graphics in some (with AA). That said, you'll still benefit from 120 Hz with less input lag even if you run at just 60fps.
 
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The BENQ seems to have less input lag than the ASUS, but I'm pretty curious how much advantage the zero motion blur effect gives you. I have heard from people that they have a better advantage (faster reaction time) with LightBoost even with the input lag. Also remember to test with LightBoost=100% and LightBoost=10%, too.

I'll post all my thoughts, but I must warn that I have a hard time posting subjective opinion.... it makes me feel dirty. :) Coming from a FW900, I'm a pessimist on this given that it's impossible to have less motion blur or less input lag. The only thing this has going for it is the display is brighter and the pixels look a bit grainy-er due to the nature of the LCD. That is counterbalanced by my desire to move on, however; I'm tired of the bulkiness and power usage of the FW900.

I spent a couple hours gaming on it this last weekend. While I won't say things like it was a parity, or even better/worse because even that feels too subjective relative to my own swings in performance, I will say that it was the first time gaming on an LCD that I didn't feel at an inherent disadvantage compared to my CRT. The motion is clear and easy to make out. Distinguishing enemies from the terrain was comparable for the first time. The input lag is such that I can't "feel" it outright.

If you're talking about LightBoost, I should note that pixel persistence is still there -- it's just hidden by turning off the backlight between refreshes. A more generic terminology is "pixel response".

Noted; or as perceived "motion blur", correct?

I am developing a freely-constructable Arduino input lag meter. It will have 0.1ms precision when comparing between displays. I'm focussed on other projects at the moment, but keep an eye out.

Cool! Let me know if you want a beta tester. I'm relatively handy and eager to get some objective testing done.
 
I spent a couple hours gaming on it this last weekend. While I won't say things like it was a parity, or even better/worse because even that feels too subjective relative to my own swings in performance, I will say that it was the first time gaming on an LCD that I didn't feel at an inherent disadvantage compared to my CRT. The motion is clear and easy to make out. Distinguishing enemies from the terrain was comparable for the first time. The input lag is such that I can't "feel" it outright.
Understood, and being fair to subjective testing.

Differences in human reaction time can cause variances in tens and hundreds of milliseconds, and certain game play styles (quickly identifying enemies in terrain while still in motion, turning fast or circle strafing, etc) would seem to sometimes outweigh any slight input lag disdavantages (the type of tiny input lag difference like less than 1 frame). Close combat may benefit more from less input lag, though, while "identifying-in-motion" would benefit more from the lack of motion blur. The reports that has come in so far, seem to indicate there's more of a competitive advantage during fast-twitch action, including a surprising report by a professional gamer (the letter of which I've posted in the comments section at the bottom of my Samsung Zero Motion Blur HOWTO page). More study and research is needed.

Noted; or as perceived "motion blur", correct?
Yes, perceived motion blur -- different from "source-based" motion blur (e.g. GPU effects) or "recorded" motion blur (e.g. camera). The eye can't tell the difference, but all of them can co-exist and be accumulative (e.g. watcing a movie with motion blur, on a display with motion blur).
The goal is to eliminate all weak links, and the synchronized strobe backlight (LightBoost) eliminates the final (major) weak link to motion clarity of a CRT.

To understand how a modern LCD refreshes, it's worth watching a typical LCD (2007-era) monitor refresh pattern. The pixel persistence bleeds into the next refresh. Then compare it to high speed video of a 2012-era LCD monitor refreshing. The pixel persistence stops bleeding into the next refresh, and the refresh "wipe" from top-to-bottom is sharper. Near the end of the video, the backlight will strobe in a way that is synchronized to the refresh. You'll then notice that pixel persistence is successfully bypassed by turning off the backlight. This makes possible the "CRT motion effect" on an LCD.

Cool! Let me know if you want a beta tester. I'm relatively handy and eager to get some objective testing done.
I've now taken photographs of how to build the Arduino input lag tester, my main problem is finishing off the software. Do you have programming skills?
 
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Ok i have just tested it on xl2411t and... motion blur is greatly reduced BUT i have really bad eyestrain :(

How can I unnistall everything?
 
Ok i have just tested it on xl2411t and... motion blur is greatly reduced BUT i have really bad eyestrain
How can I unnistall everything?
You posted your question in two threads, so I'm replying here too.

Generally, it is the following:
1. Disable the Stereoscopic checkbox in nVidia control panel. If that doesn't work, then:
2. Go to Display Manager, right click and Change Driver -- change back to your original monitor or "Generic PnP Monitor" and then reboot.

IMPORTANT: Eye strain depends on the person, but some notes:
-- 3D has more eyestrain (60Hz flicker per eye) than just using 2D LightBoost (!20Hz flicker)
-- If you get eyestrain with CRT even at 120 Hz, LightBoost may give you some eyestrain
-- If you have the 3D glasses kit, it already includes a warning about eyestrain during 3D operation. The same caveats apply when doing LightBoost 2D.
-- Adjust your room lighting to match.

FWIW, I don't seem to get any eyestrain with either 120 Hz CRT's or 120 Hz LightBoost.
 
Just got my VG248QE and I do have to say that the Lightboost motion is pretty amazing. I am, however, pretty disappointed in the backlight uniformity across the panel. The upper left portion of the screen is significantly darker than the lower right... annoyingly so.

Is this sort of thing normal for TN panels or did a get a defective one?

Some pics taken w/ my cell:

Lightboost brightness 0
hudeM8Pl.jpg


Lightboost brightness 100
0AK8PXrl.jpg
 
Just got my VG248QE and I do have to say that the Lightboost motion is pretty amazing. I am, however, pretty disappointed in the backlight uniformity across the panel. The upper left portion of the screen is significantly darker than the lower right... annoyingly so.
Is this sort of thing normal for TN panels or did a get a defective one?
Turn off LightBoost temporarily (An easy way to do this is to switch to 144 Hz refresh which automatically turns off LightBoost -- this is easy to do if you are using the newer INF files)

Do you get the same or different backlight uniformity? Some people have discovered that backlight uniformity looks different in LightBoost and non-LightBoost mode, because the LCD blacks seems to be biased to different black level (to minimize pixel persistence after-effects). That is, an intentionally raised black level (reduced contrast) during LightBoost mode...

If you only get it during LightBoost, it's an unfortunate side effect of LightBoost because one edge of the panel (e.g. top edge) was refreshed at a different time than the opposite edge (e.g. bottom edge) in the normal LCD top-to-bottom pixel refresh scan. This can lead to minor vertical non-uniformities in LightBoost mode when the whole backlight is flashed all at once, because the bottom edge is more recently refreshed before the backlight strobe. In this case, just switch between 120Hz and 144Hz whenever you want to turn on/off LightBoost. Very easy to do via MultiRes if you've installed a newer INF file that permits easy switching between 120Hz LightBoost and 144Hz non-LightBoost. It makes it so much easier to choose the static image advantage of better contrast/uniformity, versus the high-definition-sharp-motion advantage of LightBoost.
 
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Just got my VG248QE and I do have to say that the Lightboost motion is pretty amazing. I am, however, pretty disappointed in the backlight uniformity across the panel. The upper left portion of the screen is significantly darker than the lower right... annoyingly so.

Is this sort of thing normal for TN panels or did a get a defective one?

Mine seems to be identical to yours with lightboost on.
 
uniformity or what I call "TN shadow" moves depending where your eyes are in relation to the monitor. This is different than backlight bleed which is more of a backlight flaring out from the edges of a panel. The angle you took the photos at could show the bottom brighter than the top, then if you chose a higher/lower angle or tilted the monitor on an ergo arm, the opposite side could appear darker. To make it the most obvious, stand up looking down at a monitor, then sit down slouching in your chair. The "shadow" shifts completely That is if you are talking about TN viewing angle causing a "TN shadow". It is a tradeoff on TN panels. Its also more obvious on larger panels, or panels you sit very close to so that the viewing angle is made even more exaggerated. On a blank screen it would be more obvious than during a game scene, as would backlight bleed/flaring for that matter.
 
I still don't understand TN panels with matte coating - it just makes them worse. My glossy VG236he like other glossy TN displays has excellent viewing angles. I rarely notice the gamma shift in any direction. To put this into perspective, my monitor sits at a 30 degree angle and I'm never viewing it head-on.
 
I still don't understand TN panels with matte coating - it just makes them worse. My glossy VG236he like other glossy TN displays has excellent viewing angles. I rarely notice the gamma shift in any direction. To put this into perspective, my monitor sits at a 30 degree angle and I'm never viewing it head-on.
and I dont understand how people can use glossy screens. heck I cant stand even the bezals being glossy as that reflects everything in the room not to mention the screen gets reflected into the bezal edges.
 
Turn off LightBoost temporarily (An easy way to do this is to switch to 144 Hz refresh which automatically turns off LightBoost -- this is easy to do if you are using the newer INF files)

Do you get the same or different backlight uniformity? Some people have discovered that backlight uniformity looks different in LightBoost and non-LightBoost mode, because the LCD blacks seems to be biased to different black level (to minimize pixel persistence after-effects). That is, an intentionally raised black level (reduced contrast) during LightBoost mode...

If you only get it during LightBoost, it's an unfortunate side effect of LightBoost because one edge of the panel (e.g. top edge) was refreshed at a different time than the opposite edge (e.g. bottom edge) in the normal LCD top-to-bottom pixel refresh scan. This can lead to minor vertical non-uniformities in LightBoost mode when the whole backlight is flashed all at once, because the bottom edge is more recently refreshed before the backlight strobe. In this case, just switch between 120Hz and 144Hz whenever you want to turn on/off LightBoost. Very easy to do via MultiRes if you've installed a newer INF file that permits easy switching between 120Hz LightBoost and 144Hz non-LightBoost. It makes it so much easier to choose the static image advantage of better contrast/uniformity, versus the high-definition-sharp-motion advantage of LightBoost.

Thanks for the quick feedback. After a bit more testing I do see that this is only a problem when in Lightboost mode. I like your idea of switching refresh rates to enable/disable lightboost however I've been searching for the newer INF files but I haven't been able to locate them. Could you point me to one that would allow me to switch to 144hz?
 
So my friend received his ASUS VG248QE today and there seems to be a serious defect with the backlight. When he engages lightboost mode using the preferred method , it shows what looks like an artifact , a big ass one on the backlight that sits directly in the center of the screen. It almost looks like a "burned on" pattern.

This does not happen with my BenQ in Lightboost mode and I can't see any kind of visible artifact when its engaged. It looks god awful on my friends monitor which is otherwise perfectly fine.

Is it normal for there to be some kind of artifact on the screen from lightboost mode being enabled on this ASUS? Are you guys experiencing this at all?
 
My Benq XL2411t came with a thin Dual DVI cable (unopened).
I'm currently using a thick Dual DVI cable that came with my S23A700D.

Then Benq cable is longer and thinner, which one should I keep?
 
My Benq XL2411t came with a thin Dual DVI cable (unopened).
I'm currently using a thick Dual DVI cable that came with my S23A700D.

Then Benq cable is longer and thinner, which one should I keep?

If you aren't seeing any problems, just go with whichever you prefer. The thinner cable would be easier to route I'd assume.

If you don't mind me asking, where did you purchase your XL2711T?
 
My monitor's backlight uniformity @ 10% lightboost:

Ph75kuR.jpg


It's better than the AW2310 this is replacing. The edges are almost all uniform so nothing stands out when letterboxed.
 
If you aren't seeing any problems, just go with whichever you prefer. The thinner cable would be easier to route I'd assume.

If you don't mind me asking, where did you purchase your XL2711T?

I would imagine the thinner cable might loose data because of bandwidth?

Bought in europe, it was slightly cheaper compared to the Asus.
But the XL2411t does not have Displayport + builtin crosshair.

So anyone that want Eyefinity 120/144hz (Dual Dvi + dp +dp) you need to buy the Asus anyway.


My monitor's backlight uniformity @ 10% lightboost:

Ph75kuR.jpg


It's better than the AW2310 this is replacing. The edges are almost all uniform so nothing stands out when letterboxed.

Is that a completely black image, does the camera distort the picture?

I have AMD and I guess LB makes the display super bright?
 
I have a related question about the icc color profile that was posted a page back.

To apply this profile I followed the general guide posted and downloaded the file and then copied it into Windows\System32\spool\drivers\color\ then I applied the profile the color profile.

After this i noticed a red tint to my whites (but this might just be my bias due to being used to running my monitor at a cooler settings). I set brightness and contrast back to 18, 80 as he stated he calibrated the monitor at these settings, but do I need to go back and set the Red Green Blue all to 100 as well?

Im going to try this profile for a few days and see how I like it. The colors do seem less grey and dull now though right off the bat.
 
I have a related question about the icc color profile that was posted a page back.

To apply this profile I followed the general guide posted and downloaded the file and then copied it into Windows\System32\spool\drivers\color\ then I applied the profile the color profile.

After this i noticed a red tint to my whites (but this might just be my bias due to being used to running my monitor at a cooler settings). I set brightness and contrast back to 18, 80 as he stated he calibrated the monitor at these settings, but do I need to go back and set the Red Green Blue all to 100 as well?

Im going to try this profile for a few days and see how I like it. The colors do seem less grey and dull now though right off the bat.

Someone else's calibration and settings might not work for another person because of personal preference and slight variances with each display, even within the same model.
 
Thanks for the quick feedback. After a bit more testing I do see that this is only a problem when in Lightboost mode. I like your idea of switching refresh rates to enable/disable lightboost however I've been searching for the newer INF files but I haven't been able to locate them. Could you point me to one that would allow me to switch to 144hz?

I'm interested in the new inf file, too.
 
I have a related question about the icc color profile that was posted a page back.

To apply this profile I followed the general guide posted and downloaded the file and then copied it into Windows\System32\spool\drivers\color\ then I applied the profile the color profile.

After this i noticed a red tint to my whites (but this might just be my bias due to being used to running my monitor at a cooler settings). I set brightness and contrast back to 18, 80 as he stated he calibrated the monitor at these settings, but do I need to go back and set the Red Green Blue all to 100 as well?

Im going to try this profile for a few days and see how I like it. The colors do seem less grey and dull now though right off the bat.

If it's mine then it's whatever the default settings are, the only changes were to standard mode and brightness drop.
 
I had to get rid pf the Lightboost hack on my VG248QE.

Looked real good in games, however, the main game I play (Mechwarrior Online) seemed to have an issue where whenever I started a game I would get horrible FPS drop (even after tapping Ctrl-T) and it would take about 1 min to load into that game. Of course, by that time, my team was already pushing forward and fighting while I was still sitting there with a black screen waiting for the game to start. Got rid of the Lightboost hack and all is normal again.

Any ideas here?

Thanks!

On a side note..

Just installed Cr4zy's ICC Profile he posted. HUGE difference. Looks amazing!! Perhaps slightly reddish tint but hardly noticable.
 
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So, I'm using Cr4zy's profile (Set as default), but when I start a game (Mechwarrior Online), the screen looks like it jumps back to pre-New ICC profile mode.

It's wierd. The desktop colors are great, but when I start up the game the profile seemingly disappears and back comes the bright and washed out look.

Did I do something wrong here?
 
Alright, I got my VG248QE today and as far as that pixel inversion problem is concerned, I am satisfied. I can't see it under normal use like I could on the VG278HE, it is only noticeable if I get close and actively seek it.

I've done my best to use the monitor settings to calibrate, as I don't plan to mess with profiles since it is difficult to behave with games and I also have other screens in use alongside this anyway.

Right now I have it set at:
Brightness: 25
Contrast: 73
Saturation: 50
Color Temp: User Mode - Red 82/Green 84/Blue 80.

This is mostly satisfactory, but the big issue in my way is that the black levels SUCK. There is no black, only dark grey, and everything else generally feels too bright and washed out. I'm going to keep messing with it for a while yet, but I don't have much confidence. Any advice would be appreciated. I think I'm going to mess with the RGB more and maybe toy with the saturation. Might do the trick.
 
Successful removal of the matte film on the Asus QE and it's like I can see again. :D

Like a totally different monitor. A TN panel like the Samsung's that actually looks good. And no sparkle!
 
Looking forward to seeing how it looks :]

are you still going to apply a new coating or leave it as is?
 
This is the actual film remove from the Asus VG248QE:

1294762



I think that image speaks for itself.


The actual monitor after matte film removed in use:

1294763



Video showing the difference between matte and gloss: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQm1v5UJ1y4

For more information on converting, send me a PM.

Taking the best gaming monitor on the planet to a whole new level.
 
This is the actual film remove from the Asus VG248QE:

Yousir, have balls of steel. Well done.

On a side note, with a little help from the folks that have been in this forum I've been able to confirm that this monitor does not exceed 10ms real input lag, and the average seems to fall closer to 4ms or so. Great stuff.
 
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