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BENQ 22" LCD Monitor $259.95+Free Shipping+No Rebates
- Thread starter Judechao
- Start date
For those who already got this, if using non-native resolutions, can you choose to not stretch the image (like if I'm running an old game at 1024x768, can I just have black bars on either side?). Additionally, if it does allow this, does it just do native pixels, or will it stretch while maintaining aspect ratio?
I'll take you guys a pic this evening, pm me to remind me. It really is a great screen, I'm very happy with it.. and its HUGE.
As far as cancelling cards hurting your score, that's completely untrue in all circumstances. Credit is my business, so rest assured that's good info.
As far as cancelling cards hurting your score, that's completely untrue in all circumstances. Credit is my business, so rest assured that's good info.
oh snap! glad to hear it then, iv been wanting to cancel a card and my mom keeps telling me it'll hurt my score lol
Also, is there any backlight bleed, and how good is the black on this monitor.
So if I have one maxed out credit card for $10k, and one that's open for $10k, closing the completely unused 10k card won't hurt my score?
InCogneato
[H]ard|Gawd
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i believe that canceling cards and applying for new cards only hurt your score temporarily. like a year or two and the few points you lost are back...
this monitor looks great, im very tempted...
this monitor looks great, im very tempted...
There you GO...........
The one i got has 1 dead pixel and i am still don't know if i should return it or not.
NoxTek
The Geek Redneck
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Whereabouts on the screen is the errant pixel?
Try rubbing the area of the dead pixel with a finger, or more preferably a soft cloth. Often times with TN panels you can 'release' a dead/stuck pixel by doing this.
You must be talking about credit limits, I assume at least. You can't close an account with a 10k balance - you owe them 10,000 dollars.. first you pay them, then you close the credit line.
it doesn't hurt your score, it just doesn't improve it. Your score is based on calculations derived from high credit limit, and the overall average percentage of balance across each credit line. credit cards are called revolving accounts - as they are paid monthly. Your auto/mortgage lines are called secured lines - secured by the car, or home.. these are more prevalent in your overall score calculation. Revolving accounts (such as credit cards) are less prevalent in calculating your overall score. Each time you make (or don't make) a payment, it logs to that particular credit line, 30/60/90 days are the 3 different generic late payment areas. each hit for whichever late tier you are in, carries a higher percentage weight as you move up the scale, negatively impacting the overall percentage for the total term of the credit line. For instance, 48 month auto loan, you make 4 late payments, 2 30's, and 1 60, and 1 90 day late. those are added up by their given weight (let's say 3 for 30 days lates (3x2=6), 6 for 60 days late (6x1=6), 9 for 90 days late (9x1=9) total negative score = 21 -> 21/48 = 43.75% derog for that credit line, add up all the total percentages for all your credit lines, which would give you a total overall score, and then award a FICO point ratio to that score.. each bureau does it differently, but you should see the general idea of how scores work. You also have bankruptcys, repossessions, etc... which factor in as well. Other things that can (actually) lower your score are having high balances across your accounts - this shows your unable to pay off your current credit - and you shouldn't be given any more. Also, living 0 balances across your revolving accounts does not benefit you - it shows no history or ability to pay on a monthly basis - so having a small balance on all your revolving accounts shows you are regularly using your credit, and paying it off. The most important thing to remember is your Credit score doesn't get you the approval, it just gets you your interest rate. Your credit profile is what gets you approved, or declined. The score is really not that relevant - not as much as all the commercials you see state... how you pay, and what you pay to whom is decided by the loan officer reviewing your credit - they can tell whether you move often, whether you pay bills, or if you barely getting by.. you can tell a lot about someone from their bureau - which is what makes the approve or decline the loan. Someone with a 540 fico might get a car from their profile, but someone with a 640 might get declined due to their profile... it's all relative.
we better stay on task though, don't walk to hijack the thread.
I have already tried rubbing it. I also ran that software that is suppose to cure it but no luck.
NoxTek
The Geek Redneck
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That sucks man, I hope mine is free of stuck pixels. I'll know Wednesday when it gets here. 
I havent noticed any actually. Sorry for no pics, I'm in the middle of building my new PC at home, so technically that wasn't possible
NoxTek
The Geek Redneck
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One thing that seems to ring loudly in a lot of the user reviews for this monitor is that there is very little backlight bleed.
I got my monitor today, haven't had time to open it yet though.
I got my monitor today, haven't had time to open it yet though.
not sure what you mean by this.. as I haven't seen a screen that wasn't since mmx was the new thing.
Many sources advise not cancelling unused credit because it raises your debt to available credit ratio. Unless you're paying annual fees or have some other good reason to do so.
http://www.mortgagepig.com/articledetails.cfm?newsid=1145
http://www.mortgagepig.com/articledetails.cfm?newsid=1145
NoxTek
The Geek Redneck
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A few random pictures I shot tonight:
NoxTek
The Geek Redneck
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Yup I did, and like someone just posted they have a facility on Addison, TX so I ended up paying tax bringing my total to over $280. Still not bad for a 22" screen.
I really like the size and the overall look of the monitor, it looks much sleeker than my old Viewsonic VX2025WM. I am however having a bit of trouble getting used to the (slightly) reduced viewing angles when compared to my old monitor. When you're used to a P-MVA panel going back to a TN can take a bit of getting used to. The extra size of the screen really is nice though... and the scaling controls in the nVidia drivers actually work with this monitor which is a HUGE plus if you like to play older non-widescreen games!
One thing I've noticed and am not too keen on is the 'sharpening' controls on the monitor. By default my monitor arrived with the Image Sharpening set to 1. The sharpening levels range from level 1 to level 5, oddly enough level 1 is full strength sharpening and level 5 is the lowest amount of sharpening. But there appears to be no way to completely disable the monitor's image sharpening routine altogether - even at level 5 you can still notice the weird 'fringes' caused around some text and lines caused by the sharpening routine.
NO DEAD PIXELS on my unit! At least none that I've been able to observe and I've looked pretty closely. Yay!
crashthenet44
Limp Gawd
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I got the 20 last March when it was $400. Excellent monitor. I've been thinking of picking up another one to go with the one I already have or maybe even grabbing the 22.
? what you mean is your debt to income ratio, cancelling is exactly why you do this.. a revolving account carries a balance, which is your debt. For loans, and general secured credit what is important is your current revolving debt, which would be whatever your monthly minimum payment is, all this is factored into your total debt. When you close an account, you have to pay the balance, effectively completely wiping out the debt all together, which LOWERS your debt to income ratio (DTI) which is what you want.. not sure how you managed to get that mixed up.
I'll even give an example as many people get confused:
your monthly gross income: $3,478
credit card a) $120.00 minimum payment
credit card b) $87.00 minimum payment
mortgage a) $1028.00
auto loan a) $327.00
student loan a) $85.00
---------------------------------------
$1647.00 total revolving monthly debt -> 1647.00 / 3478.00 = 47.35% DTI - most loans max out DTI between 50-70% dti - based on your total income and your credit profile. Close an account (remove one) and your DTI lowers.... which is what you want. Closing accounts is never a bad thing for your DTI, however - it doesn't further increase your credit score either... it's the loss for potential.
/education 0
I think you're the one that's mixing it up. When you cancel a credit card that has no balance charged to it, your credit score will drop.
haha credit/finance is my job, I look at about 100 bureaus a day approving/declining loans.
I assure you, I'm very right... I actually know the exact math behind bureaus to the most complicated and intricate depths as I've worked for a CRT company - far exceeding anything you will find on google. Review some of my previous posts in this thread, I go into great detail just to give an example. When you remove a card, you remove debt, you can't cancel a card with a balance for christs sake, you have to pay it off... which removes all the debt. it doesn't hurt your score, it just doesn't improve it further... why would a company look negatively at you removing debt? that's absurd.
Damn, no free shipping anymore. I might bite later tonight when I cash my paycheck.
Just bought my first car, I know this is not true. What you are talking about are the ratios - your debt to total available credit. Let us take the scenario of you canceling a credit card with a $14,000 limit (my old credit card from State Farm, "SF"), but you have another one from Bank of America with a $12,000 limit (my current, "BoA"). If I had no debt on my SF card but $1,200 on my BoA card, my debt to total credit ratio would be $1,200/($14,000+$12,000)=4.6% used or just 95.4% unused which is very high. Let us say I canceled my SF card, my new ratio is $1,200/$12,000=10% or 90% unused. Yeah, my ratio went down, but this does not affect your credit score because the amount I still owe is $1,200, not $50,000. You have to take things relatively, and the ratio above is not the end all of standards. The ratio is used though in a credit profile because if your debit to total credit starts to tank, many places will think you are just buying junk up and declaring bankruptcy.
Just bought my first car, I know this is not true. What you are talking about are the ratios - your debt to total available credit. Let us take the scenario of you canceling a credit card with a $14,000 limit (my old credit card from State Farm, "SF"), but you have another one from Bank of America with a $12,000 limit (my current, "BoA"). If I had no debt on my SF card but $1,200 on my BoA card, my debt to total credit ratio would be $1,200/($14,000+$12,000)=4.6% used or just 95.4% unused which is very high. Let us say I canceled my SF card, my new ratio is $1,200/$12,000=10% or 90% unused. Yeah, my ratio went down, but this does not affect your credit score because the amount I still owe is $1,200, not $50,000. You have to take things relatively, and the ratio above is not the end all of standards. The ratio is used though in a credit profile because if your debit to total credit starts to tank, many places will think you are just buying junk up and declaring bankruptcy.
Credit is very complicated, I understand your reasoning, however what your citing is not relative to your score, it has no effect. The areas that have effect are pay history/derog, total high credit (the most you've ever borrowed), current revolving debt. Your maximum credit available would not be a concern to a bureau, or any lender since it is in their best interest that you don't accrue additional debt before or during the loan. Current credit balances show your ability to pay, which can benefit you. However, the argument here is based on whether or not closing an open account hurts you, like i've stated previous - it doesn't negatively effect your score, it just stops further increasing your score.
So what is it you guys like about this monitor? I just got mine today and I'm not sure why so many people like this monitor. So far the only good things about this monitor are the size and how pictures look. Also no dead pix's. Games and movies look like crap so far. I have played several widescreen movies so far that has truly been disappointing. I hope its just the fact I don't know how to configure it correctly. Anyone has some suggestions on making this better I am all for it. Please no more talk about credit, pretty please. I'd really love some suggestions on where to start.
What did you expect for what you paid? For $260 I don't see how anyone can complain about a 22" widescreen LCD. It is what it is.
Your exactly right. After really paying attention to some of the display threads I got a really great monitor. After some tweaking I was able to make games come out almost perfect. The only problem I haven't figured out yet is how to balance my brightness of my lcd. I sure after a couple weeks I'll have it figured out. I'm only sad about movies but it sounds like I'm not alone, almost everyone on an lcd is. All I have to say is I was completely wrong this is well worth every penny and damn it is huge.
NoxTek
The Geek Redneck
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Not directly, as with most value line monitors it has no built in support for 1:1 aspect ratio adjustments. However the ATI and nVidia scaling adjustments seem to work awesome with this particular monitor.