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What are your opinions on best brand for DDR3. I've always been a corsair fan myself but from the sigs i've read around here it seems like there are alot of OCZ fans.
so whats your favorite RAM and why?
Corsair(Non vengance) is my number 1. My alternative is Mushkin. I do not go outside of those 2.
i've read around here it seems like there are alot of OCZ fans.
...yes and no.It's not the brand that matters there are tons of so called memory brands out there sprung up from nowhere it seems. It's the chips (and quality) they use that does matter.
...yes and no.
So, at the end of the day, the company you buy from can make a huge difference.
I'm not referring to speed, I'm talking about stability and reliability.Not really because memory performance is one of the least useful areas to tinker with. Bang per buck it's not even on the chart and this has been shown through the years. Even moving from DDR2 up to DDR3 didn't do a lot. Faster modules don't really show any significant peformance increase it's pretty minor at best.
If you want more fps you get a better graphics card if you want more CPU performance overclock it or get a faster one both are far more useful than memory. It's one of the biggest myths with pc's or course makers want you to believe their nice premium ram is so much faster..it's not..it's a small improvement at best.
....I'll bite - you don't think the module PCB, it's construction, layer count, signal integrety, etc. make any difference at all...??Ignore all the wrong answers.
What really matters is that the chips on the module are clearly identified as being from Micron, Samsung (SEC), Hynix, Winbond, ProMOS, PowerChip, Nanya/Inotera, Elpida, etc., rather than having a private label or even no markings at all. "Clearly identified" means you don't have to remove a heatsink to check the brand.
Ignore all the wrong answers.
What really matters is that the chips on the module are clearly identified as being from Micron, Samsung (SEC), Hynix, Winbond, ProMOS, PowerChip, Nanya/Inotera, Elpida, etc., rather than having a private label or even no markings at all. "Clearly identified" means you don't have to remove a heatsink to check the brand.
larrymoencurly said:What really matters is that the chips on the module are clearly identified as being from Micron, Samsung (SEC), Hynix, Winbond, ProMOS, PowerChip, Nanya/Inotera, Elpida, etc., rather than having a private label or even no markings at all. "Clearly identified" means you don't have to remove a heatsink to check the brand.
From what you've seen of signal intergrity tests, how much did PCBs differ, net of the DRAM chips, both for modules made with no-name chips and with major brand chips?....I'll bite - you don't think the module PCB, it's construction, layer count, signal integrety, etc. make any difference at all...??
Let's say is that it wasn't intentionally made to be of the best quality, and those chips were bought either as factory rejects (euphemistically called "UTT" -- UnTesTed) or as whole, uncut wafers that weren't tested completely at the factory. And if you have Corsair XMS memory, Corsair admits that it's overclocked and not tested very much (they virtually admit so in their description of its "thorough" testing). You should test with at least MemTest86/MemTest86+ and Gold Memory, running each diagnostic for at least 12 hours, preferrably on more than one motherboard and with each module in each DIMM socket. But some mobos, like BioStars, may not allow good testing because they not only default to higher than normal voltage but may not even let you manually set the voltage to normal.I just pulled a heatspreader off a corsair stick and there is no brand name on the chip. Going by what you just said this memory isnt good quality?
Corsair(Non vengance) is my number 1. My alternative is Mushkin. I do not go outside of those 2.
Let's say is that it wasn't intentionally made to be of the best quality, and those chips were bought either as factory rejects (euphemistically called "UTT" -- UnTesTed) or as whole, uncut wafers that weren't tested completely at the factory. And if you have Corsair XMS memory, Corsair admits that it's overclocked and not tested very much (they virtually admit so in their description of its "thorough" testing). You should test with at least MemTest86/MemTest86+ and Gold Memory, running each diagnostic for at least 12 hours, preferrably on more than one motherboard and with each module in each DIMM socket. But some mobos, like BioStars, may not allow good testing because they not only default to higher than normal voltage but may not even let you manually set the voltage to normal.
I think my overall failure rate for memory modules is around 10%, but only one of those failures involved name brand chips, and that was with a module with solder slopped over the gold fingers, and I didn't even bother testing it. However I never tried Crucial Ballistix memory.
If the heatspreader was glued on rather than clamped on, I hope you pulled it off by prying between the chip and heatspreader, rather than between the circuit board and heat spreader, which can break solder connections.