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BigWater 745?
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DarthBeavis
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Anyone ever use Jagermeister as a coolant?
DFI Daishi
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i am neither a software engineer nor am i a car tinkerer. i'm a earth sciences studert and a geek who has a habit or tinkering and figuring things out. there aren't many things in this house other than computer monitors that i haven't had apart and back together at some point.lopoetve said:Buddy, I'm a software engineer and a car tinkerer. neither uses hand drills.I wouldn't even know what to do with the thing
when i wanted to figure out how to hack into a case, i got a cheapo steel number from a local curbside (labled broken, free) and started hacking into it to get a feel for how it all works. dremel, tinsnips, drill, file and a punch (to get a dent in there so the drill bit doesn't skate around) had me good to go.
you look at the case, and you look at what other people have done, and you brainstorm ideas, and you measure, and you make templates, and you sometimes do a trial run with a stand-in case.......but you spend plenty of time preparing for what you are going to do.
when you have something that your pretty darned sure will work, you go and you do it and you take your time about it. i wouldn't think that's any great departure from working on your car, but then again i don't touch my car........
if my computer crashes because of something i've tinkered with, well shit.......that's too bad. if my car crashes because of something i've tinkered with, i'm just a LITTLE more put out.
i've gotta say, though, that a watercooling loop is a lot less complicated than an engine.
It's not that much harder to drill a hole than anything else. Just centerpunch it, and then remember to keep the drill turning the right way, and you'll be through in no time. Clean up the edges with some sandpaper, and you're set.
Just remember to remove the hardware first.
Just remember to remove the hardware first.
lopoetve said:
I really doubt the instructions were any better then the ones you could easily find online.
What kind of instructions are you looking for? What order each part of the setup should go in? If you need that just look at the picture of the kit you worship and use the same order that they did.
MrWizard6600
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DarthBeavis said:
im sorry, how did you do that? just got hot and copper wanted to expand and the plastic didnt? how did you do that?
DFI Daishi
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and back to the first page of this thread......http://www.hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1029492097&postcount=14MrWizard6600 said:
MrWizard6600
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Lopoetve said:
im in wood working 10.. and general Technology (plastic working) so my knowladge of drills trumphs ALL OF YOURS... muahahaha
lol grade 10 student out smarting Software engineer....
anywho. yea its not that hard. sheet metal isnt to hard to drill through, you dont need to center punch, you just need a bit that doesnt suck a Drill that is >14 volts (14.4 will do), and makes contact at cutting point, IE your bit would be big, (12/9cm) round, and have lots of teeth. take some tape. duct tape, masking tape, NOT scotch tape, and cover the area where you want to drill. take a ruler, measure out where your hole is, place the bit on top, trace around the bit (which should be dooable as that area has tape on it). go through your last minute jidders, plug that bit into your drill, place the drill over the area your gonna drill pres down, pull the trigger, and in a few secconds, (minutes if your a sissy) you have a hole. remove the remaining tape. and (this is not necissary) file a little of the edges to make em lose there sharp-ness.
just so you know, the tape was for two things, to stop the bit from slipping, and to stop the bit from scratching any area it wasnt sposed to.
okie dokie. next
you have a hole... now the mounting holes. take your fan/fan cover, place it over top of the whole, push a pencil thru the corners where the screws will be held. take a small bit, cant even remember the size of a standard computer screw... its like what, an eigth in diameter? maybe a sixteenth? anywho take a bit that is approx. the same size as the diameter of the threaded part of the screw **if you cant find the size smaller is better**, drill through your four pencil marks.
this takes me a grand total of about 20mins. i installed a blow-hole.
if your really really worried about destroying the top plate/side pannel/ what ever of your case, take a spare peice of sheet metal, and drill through that.
MrWizard6600
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DFI Daishi said:
you could just said "yes" instead of giving me a link.
DFI Daishi
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because it's not usualy an issue of the copper expanding. there's a nice fat o-ring to take up differences in expansion between the copper and plastic, and the screws holding the plastic against the copper/o-ring aren't a tight fit.MrWizard6600 said:
DFI Daishi said:i am neither a software engineer nor am i a car tinkerer. i'm a earth sciences studert and a geek who has a habit or tinkering and figuring things out. there aren't many things in this house other than computer monitors that i haven't had apart and back together at some point.
when i wanted to figure out how to hack into a case, i got a cheapo steel number from a local curbside (labled broken, free) and started hacking into it to get a feel for how it all works. dremel, tinsnips, drill, file and a punch (to get a dent in there so the drill bit doesn't skate around) had me good to go.
you look at the case, and you look at what other people have done, and you brainstorm ideas, and you measure, and you make templates, and you sometimes do a trial run with a stand-in case.......but you spend plenty of time preparing for what you are going to do.
when you have something that your pretty darned sure will work, you go and you do it and you take your time about it. i wouldn't think that's any great departure from working on your car, but then again i don't touch my car........
if my computer crashes because of something i've tinkered with, well shit.......that's too bad. if my car crashes because of something i've tinkered with, i'm just a LITTLE more put out.
i've gotta say, though, that a watercooling loop is a lot less complicated than an engine.
I do electronics, not metal shop
I don't have time to plan stuff, get second cases to try on, etc... Nor the room, sadly. I buy parts that get the job done I need done. If I need to pass something through a case, I find a PCI bracket that will use the existing holes, or I leave the side off. I do research on the best part to use and then go and use it, and I learn from experience of using them. Genix said:
Yeah, actually, they were, because they actually explained (without argument) how to set everything up and what to use where/etc. Unlike online, where they all contradict each other and where each possibility is connected with a series of massive arguments.
MrWizard6600 said:
It's hardly outsmarting, it's a different set of skills, that's it. Thanks for the instructions, if I need to mount a radiator, I'll give that a try.
lopoetve: then what the heck are you doing in this forum if you do not believe and is not willing to trust our recommendation?
also the warranty that they give out is pretty uselss.. cos if your wc system go wonky on you while its in use, chances are that you will need to replace the majority of the system anyway..
and who you think that the companies cater to but other than the guys here who give hte reommendations and have the passion to push watercooling into the mainsteam as a viable alternative.
its people like these that gives companies like TT the guts to make and set up a watercooling system.
companies only do things for profit and that makes some of their judgement suspect, but the people here who spent hteir time and give advice freely have no reason to lie to you or to cause your comp to go up in a puff of smoke, you should trust the people who posts here as they have no incentive to lie to you
also the warranty that they give out is pretty uselss.. cos if your wc system go wonky on you while its in use, chances are that you will need to replace the majority of the system anyway..
and who you think that the companies cater to but other than the guys here who give hte reommendations and have the passion to push watercooling into the mainsteam as a viable alternative.
its people like these that gives companies like TT the guts to make and set up a watercooling system.
companies only do things for profit and that makes some of their judgement suspect, but the people here who spent hteir time and give advice freely have no reason to lie to you or to cause your comp to go up in a puff of smoke, you should trust the people who posts here as they have no incentive to lie to you
fan_83 said:
I trust your recommendations after I've given something like this a try
And because you all can't make up your mind any more than anyone else can when it comes to the best way to do this. If it blows out, it's just a chance to upgrade again. But at least I'll get all of their parts replaced, and I've seen a few times where they've been willing to replace other componants that are damaged by their failure.
Exactly. And that's why I bought one.
I didn't want to spend $200+ to find out that watercooling isn't something I want to mess with. I don't mind dropping $110 on an experiment. Does ~that~ make sense? You can't make a DIY kit for the price of the TT kit, and I especially like the res it comes with (which is $40 normally) and I plan on keeping if I upgrade later.
sabrewolf732
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lopoetve said:I trust your recommendations after I've given something like this a try
If it blows out, it's just a chance to upgrade again. But at least I'll get all of their parts replaced, and I've seen a few times where they've been willing to replace other componants that are damaged by their failure.
Exactly. And that's why I bought one.
I didn't want to spend $200+ to find out that watercooling isn't something I want to mess with. I don't mind dropping $110 on an experiment. Does ~that~ make sense? You can't make a DIY kit for the price of the TT kit, and I especially like the res it comes with (which is $40 normally) and I plan on keeping if I upgrade later.
actually... we all did make up our minds. we all said to go custom.. And yes you can make a custom kit for the price of the tt kit.
Everyone saying "DIY!" is different than everyone agreeing on hwo to put it together.
Prove it. Make a custom kit for the same price. I couldn't. Neither could anyone else asked to in this thread, the closest you got was some $40 over. Hell, the radiator I wanted with dual fans was over $90 already, a single wasn't super cheap either.
Kit install complete, took about 10 hours with me picking my way very carefully and double and triple checking everything. No leaks, no problems... except for the fact that I don't have a thermal probe with a flat resistor, so I can't stick one between the block and the cpu. oh well. An upgrade for later... I'll keep an eye on it as best I can without the probe.
Prove it. Make a custom kit for the same price. I couldn't. Neither could anyone else asked to in this thread, the closest you got was some $40 over. Hell, the radiator I wanted with dual fans was over $90 already, a single wasn't super cheap either.
Kit install complete, took about 10 hours with me picking my way very carefully and double and triple checking everything. No leaks, no problems... except for the fact that I don't have a thermal probe with a flat resistor, so I can't stick one between the block and the cpu. oh well. An upgrade for later... I'll keep an eye on it as best I can without the probe.
CoW]8(0) said:Heh, you'll be itching for an upgrade long before something breaks
And then your old kit would just be a sunk cost
but 10 hours of experience working with tubing, water, waterblocks, etc in a computer, won't. I'm very proud of how the WC kit went together, it looks very clean and nice, and no leaks. That's experience I earned, and I'm happy with a $110 investment to get it
sativa said:
pump is ~silent~. the rad fan is on hi most of the time, and is pretty noisy. when not at high load, I can turn it down to very quiet.
Temps (3800X2 at 2.5ghz, dual core): 35c idle, 50c load. A bit high for watercooling, but I've got 2 cores pumping out heat, which makes a difference. I'll definately go with watercooling again.
DarthBeavis
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I posted my experience about a bad failure with a TT CPU block which is just about the best advice a person can give you. I replaced my entire set with a larger diameter Danger Den setup and got much better cooling performance. I have an FX 60 at around 25 c idle and around 35 or so full load. My second loop has my dual 7800 GTX 512s at around 35 idle and 45 to 50 full load. These temps are from MBM so take them with a grain of salt. But they are much better than before the change. My FX 60 is at stock but I will bring it back up to 2.9 shortly.
DarthBeavis
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dtess17 said:
This is my rig with teh TT block still on.
What is your 3dMark06? should be sweet with that awesome OC'd Opt.
dtess17 said:
it's significantly better than my XP-120 (panaflo ~100cfm) was doing, and I did it for the experience. I could get a lot lower and spend $250+, but I wanted to tinker with something and just run something different. Don't really need more performance right now, just wanted something fun
DarthBeavis said:This is my rig with teh TT block still on.
What is your 3dMark06? should be sweet with that awesome OC'd Opt.
hard drive crapped out on me the other day, i'm on my backup computer now, soon as i get my raptor back i'll try out 3dmark...i don't really benchmark much, i just like to max out my games...i'll giv it a try though
DarthBeavis
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If you are not using the latest Geforce drivers (which now set the SLI app for you) then make sure you choose 3dMark06 so you get the best scores. Also turn of crap like Norton if you have it installed.
DarthBeavis
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I use AVG at home and at work (tho I did buy AVG pro 5 pack license).