Dead NF7-S?

D

digitalgunfire

Limp Gawd
Joined
Aug 26, 2008
Messages
317
Decided to get one of my old boxes fired up today to use as a low end HTPC. The board in it is an NF7-S v2 and I seem to recall this board being part of the capacitor problems a few years back.

Anyway, to cut to the chase, it had a red light on the board (indicating power) but wouldn't power up. Tried replacing the power supply but same behavior - looks like it's powered up but won't power on. I tried it outside the case.

I've inspected it pretty closely and I don't see any evidence of capacitor damage. Think this thing is ready for the junk heap or does anyone have any other ideas?
 
dunno man, but I just fixed my pop's machine, it had a NF7-M (onboard video) and it exhibited the same problems that you're having. When it was powering up, it'd refuse to output video...either from the onboard, or attempting to use a pci video card instead. Ultimately, I decided to replace the board.

The PSU might be OK, but I replaced it anyway. I installed a NF7-S v2.0 in it's place....No problems to report so far.

Things it could be, I suppose, might be the chipset failing, or possibly a corrupted BIOS/CMOS. Unsure if the CPU could be a problem as well. The memory checks out fine, though. So far as I remember, the NF7 series used better quality capacitors than they had previously...The counterfeit capacitor issue bit them in the ass big time; Unsure if they got bit harder than anybody else, but they did appear to get the most flak in the press from this issue. I doubt the capacitors are the problem in both our cases.
 
Yeah, I don't think it's the capacitors, just because I see absolutely no physical evidence of it.

Guess I will have to decide if it's worth looking for a replacement board online.
 
Just for fun, try a "Hard" CMOS Clear...

> Turn off PSU on the back and unplug from the wall.

> I like to hit the power button on the front of the computer
several times to dispell any risidual charge that may be in the
capacitors.

> Remove the MB battery and move the CMOS jumper from pins
1&2 (default) to pins 2&3 (clear) for about 2-3 minutes (longer
won't hurt).

> Replace the jumper on pins 1&2. Replace the battery. Plug the
PSU back in (don't forget to turn the switch on the PSU back on)
and power up system.

> As the system starts to power on, REPEATEDLY tap the "Del."
key to enter BIOS.

> Once in BIOS load "Optimized Settings" then save and exit (F10).

> As it starts to re-boot AGAIN tap the "Del." key to re-enter
BIOS and set your settings the way you want them. When through,
save and exit (F10).

Can't hurt to try... ;)

Also, if you don't have a fan connected to the CPU fan header the
board is designed to not fireup... You can dissable this in BIOS but
first you need to get into BIOS to do it...

BTW, does the NF7 have a "Post Code" reader (I can't remember)...?

If it does, what's the code it's displaying...? (Include the decimal points
as they are important)

Here's a GREAT site for NF7/AN7 series boards...

http://www.lvcoyote.com/

Hope something here helps... :)
 
afaik the NF7-S was after the counterfeit capacitor electrolyte plague that affected all mobo manufacturers.
abit were the only manufacturer that were upfront, open & actually did something about it for their customers which is perhaps why more people remember/associate them with it.
 
BUFF said:
afaik the NF7-S was after the counterfeit capacitor electrolyte plague that affected all mobo manufacturers.
abit were the only manufacturer that were upfront, open & actually did something about it for their customers which is perhaps why more people remember/associate them with it.
Click to expand...

The caps on the NF7 series were all of the high quality Japanese variety.
 
The caps on my NF7-S 2.0 are in perfect shape. Battery replacement is a good idea for a board that old anyway. It's what kept my shuttle from ever running right, it shipped with a half-dead battery. Replaced it and it was as solid as a rock everafter.
 
the NF7-x series doesn't have a post code reader, that's confirmed. I have an NF7-M

And they have the high quality, Rubycon capacitors.
 
I replaced it with and old ASUS board and it worked, so it was definitely the board.

I haven't tried replacing the CMOS battery, I'll probably try that next. It won't even boot, so it's not a problem with the CMOS settings I don't think.
 
Looked like there was a single capacitor on the board (nf7-m) that appeared to have vented....It might have not been a rubycon, from what it appears.

Vented, and a bit of residue on top. Unsure if that was the problem that's making it uncooperative, but it might have been one symptom, I suppose.

Maybe the older series before the NF7-S v.2 didn't match up exactly, dunno...:confused:
 
NF7-M wasn't aimed at same user profile as NF7-S, after all it's an IGP mobo.
Possibly didn't have same level of cap. spec. or you were just unlucky but it's what, 5 years old so it's done it's job.
 
Is a jumper the only way to clear the CMOS on the NF7?

If i hold the insert key it doesnt do anything, i like that feature on the IC7 board.

Unless there is anotehr key or somthing i can push? i dont want to have to tear the cover off again.

HELP!
 
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