First WC setup (seeking advice)

[yonton228]

Hello everyone. I don't post here too often. However I do have a question regarding a possible WC setup. My current rig is as follows:
CPU: 6300 at 3.3GHZ
RAM: OCZ Plat Rev 2 at 938MHZ
VID: EVGA 7900GT at 650/850
MOBO: Gigabyte DQ6 Rev 2
COOLER: Thermalright Ultra 120
HDD: 3 320GIG Cudda's

I plan on upgrading to a quad core this summer when they hit the magical price of $266. I also plan on overclocking it as much as I can. I want to upgrade to a WC before then to get used to setting it up and OC this CPU a bit more to Fold a bit faster (Sorry everyone I Fold for a diff team.) So here is my proposed WC setup. I forgot to add, I only want to WC my CPU. I also would like to know if a dual 120 RAD will be more betta at cooling a quad than a single 120 RAD.

RAD: Black Ice Xtreme 2
PUMP:Swiftech MCP655
CPU BLOCK: D-TEK Fuzion
RES: I know there is plenty debate/opinions on whether a RES is needed or not or better off using a t-line. However if I do get a RES what would be the best option for me. I need it to be pretty much leakproof. For now I am leaning towards Danger Den bay RES
TUBING: Standard tygon 1/2" internal 3/4" external
CLAMPS: Worm drive with liner
FANS: Meh, I will cross that bridge when I get there.

Being that I run this rig pretty much 24/7 for F@H I need this loop and RES (heard about some RES not being very reliable) to be pretty much leak proof. Will using thread tape help with preventing leaks on the threads? Also, I plan on using that expensive non-conductive fluid because well....its not conductive...or much less so than distilled water. Has anyone had any problems with some of the non-conductive fluids?

Thanks for all the help I really do appreciate it. Any and all recommendations will be helpful. Also note that I linked to 2 diff stores. I am digging FrozenCPU's 10% discount atm, however they do not have the D-Tek block. Anyways, Thanks.

PS: It appears that the choice for fluid is distilled water and not the "non-conductive" stuff for multiple reasons. I will do a bit more research before making a choice. However for now I will focus this post on the hardware aspect of a WC setup.

-yonton228/timmy

 

[danks]

The intel quad core cpu's are absolute heat monsters so a 2x120 rad is a minimum imo.

The BIX rad is designed for higher cfm fans so if you don't mind the noise you can stick with it. For med/low cfm fans the thermochill pa rads the best and the swiftech mcr220 is a good second choice.

You could also go with the ddc+ with a custom top (i.e. Petras) as an alternative to the mcp655. More head pressure and less heat dump...

Personally I wouldnt recommend the dd bay res as they have been known to crack easily. the micro-res is good if you want something small but I prefer the EK multi-res out of all of them.

Depending on the parts you may be using tape or o-rings. nothing is really leak proof either, I can only recommend to take your time setting up the loop and do a proper leak test before installing any hardware.

 

[Ranker]

Hello everyone. I don't post here too often. However I do have a question regarding a possible WC setup. My current rig is as follows:
CPU: 6300 at 3.3GHZ
RAM: OCZ Plat Rev 2 at 938MHZ
VID: EVGA 7900GT at 650/850
MOBO: Gigabyte DQ6 Rev 2
COOLER: Thermalright Ultra 120
HDD: 3 320GIG Cudda's

I plan on upgrading to a quad core this summer when they hit the magical price of $266. I also plan on overclocking it as much as I can. I want to upgrade to a WC before then to get used to setting it up and OC this CPU a bit more to Fold a bit faster (Sorry everyone I Fold for a diff team.) So here is my proposed WC setup. I forgot to add, I only want to WC my CPU. I also would like to know if a dual 120 RAD will be more betta at cooling a quad than a single 120 RAD.

RAD: Black Ice Xtreme 2
PUMP:Swiftech MCP655
CPU BLOCK: D-TEK Fuzion
RES: I know there is plenty debate/opinions on whether a RES is needed or not or better off using a t-line. However if I do get a RES what would be the best option for me. I need it to be pretty much leakproof. For now I am leaning towards Danger Den bay RES
TUBING: Standard tygon 1/2" internal 3/4" external
CLAMPS: Worm drive with liner
FANS: Meh, I will cross that bridge when I get there.

Being that I run this rig pretty much 24/7 for F@H I need this loop and RES (heard about some RES not being very reliable) to be pretty much leak proof. Will using thread tape help with preventing leaks on the threads? Also, I plan on using that expensive non-conductive fluid because well....its not conductive...or much less so than distilled water. Has anyone had any problems with some of the non-conductive fluids?

Thanks for all the help I really do appreciate it. Any and all recommendations will be helpful. Also note that I linked to 2 diff stores. I am digging FrozenCPU's 10% discount atm, however they do not have the D-Tek block. Anyways, Thanks.

PS: It appears that the choice for fluid is distilled water and not the "non-conductive" stuff for multiple reasons. I will do a bit more research before making a choice. However for now I will focus this post on the hardware aspect of a WC setup.

-yonton228/timmy

Well it looks like you've got a performance rig and my recommendations are as such:

CPU block: Swiftech Apogee GTX - considered the best quad core block on the market
Pump: DDC-2 w/ Petra's or Alphacool's top - most powerful mainstream pump on the market, relatively quiet, a ton of head pressure, and probably the smallest pump in terms of size
Reservoir: EK reservoir multi-option - gives you a variety of ways routing your tubing with its 4 barb openings. Do not purchase the DD bay reservoirs. They're prone to cracking. It's something I experienced recently. Others here, Arcygenical, have had similar experiences as well. Petra's of petrastechshop.com stated that they often leak due to the glycol people add to their loops as the glue the bonds the acrylic is dissolved.
Radiator: Thermochill PA120.3 - Quad cores generate a lot of heat and you've got a GPU block in your loop as well. This will be able to handle all of that and be able to handle the heat load of future blocks added to your loop (NB, SB, 8800GTX etc). It's optimized for low CFM fans so there's no need for a loss of hearing even if you run this 24/7. The swiftech MCR320 QP is a good alternative.

Tubing: Tygon 2275, B-44-3, or 2075 is you can afford it. These models won't deteriorate, soak up stuff from your loop, or release stuff in your loop like other tubing. However, performance wise, there's no difference from masterkleer to the most expensive Tygon tubing. The only question here is "Do I care if my tubing clouds?" and "Do I mind switching out my tubing every 3-6 months when it does"

Clamps: Worm drives. The others don't give me piece of mind but different strokes for different folks.

Fans: Nothing beats Yate Loons in terms of price/performance and performance/noise for the low-medium CFM end of the spectrum. They undervolt well without any mechanical noises and are optimized for the Thermochill PA radiators. Cathar even stated himself over on XS forums that he specifically used Yate Loon low CFM fans as his model fan for building the radiators.

Relative cost for all of these products is about $350-400. You can purchase all of this at petrastechshop.com or at jab-tech.com

If you're on a budget, let me know and we'll see what we can recommend to fit your budget.

 

[yonton228]

Sorry if I wasnt too clear mate. I just want to WC my CPU. I dont volt mod/OC my VID cards too much so WC them is not really needed. I also should have stated a budget of some sorts (shame on me, as I normally give people a hard time when they dont do so.) Anyways, my budget is around $250.

My reasons for choosing the parts that I did was because:

CPU Block: Several people among many forums have used and tested this block and reported that it is a solid performer. Also it's a bit cheaper than the GTX
PUMP: Bit cheaper than the Petra's modded DDC-2 and I once again, I only plan on WC my CPU.
RAD: Cheaper than most, read that it works best with higher CFM fans, here again noise is not really an issue for me. I will prolly be running those SilverStone 110CFM fans.
RES: Just chose that one because it is cheap

So, do yall think that this RAD will be able to handle the heat of a quad OC'ed a bit with some higher CFM fans? Along with the D-Tek?

PS: It appears that the EK res you pointed out has no seems in the acrylic. Rather that is just a solid tube made from a mold with threads on the top and bottom. And the end caps top/bottom are the parts with the fittings. If I did go with this option, what would I use to close off 2 of the fittings?


-yonton228/timmy

 

[Ranker]

Sorry if I wasnt too clear mate. I just want to WC my CPU. I dont volt mod/OC my VID cards too much so WC them is not really needed. I also should have stated a budget of some sorts (shame on me, as I normally give people a hard time when they dont do so.) Anyways, my budget is around $250.

My reasons for choosing the parts that I did was because:

CPU Block: Several people among many forums have used and tested this block and reported that it is a solid performer. Also it's a bit cheaper than the GTX
PUMP: Bit cheaper than the Petra's modded DDC-2 and I once again, I only plan on WC my CPU.
RAD: Cheaper than most, read that it works best with higher CFM fans, here again noise is not really an issue for me. I will prolly be running those SilverStone 110CFM fans.
RES: Just chose that one because it is cheap

So, do yall think that this RAD will be able to handle the heat of a quad OC'ed a bit with some higher CFM fans? Along with the D-Tek?

PS: It appears that the EK res you pointed out has no seems in the acrylic. Rather that is just a solid tube made from a mold with threads on the top and bottom. And the end caps top/bottom are the parts with the fittings. If I did go with this option, what would I use to close off 2 of the fittings?


-yonton228/timmy

It includes 2 barb caps along with 2 fittings to close off extra barb openings. There's no acrylic to worry bout it dissolving/cracking/leakings.

For the reasons you stated, you'll be fine keeping everything else that you initially wanted. However, I still would suggest you purchase a Swiftech MCR radiator over a BIX. It's that much better for only a few bucks more with less of a pressure drop.

 

[yonton228]

Changed a couple of things. I am thinking of going with the following:

PUMP: Same as listed above
RAD: Swiftech MCR320
CPU BLOCK: Same as listed above
RES: Possibly the EK that Ranker recommended
CLAMPS: Worm with liner
TUBING: Tygon....now which ID tubing should I use? 3/8 or 1/2? I think I am correct with going with 1/2?
FANS: Still undecided atm.

Anyways, that is my proposed layout for my first WC setup. Also, what are some of the recommended ways of attaching the RAD to the outside of a case. For reference I am using a Gigabyte 570 Aurora (bought it back in October before the mags and sites boasted about it ) . I am thinking of calling around a few machine shops around where I live and see if they can make me a custom bracket mounting for the RAD. However I really don't want to spend too much money. So, what are some of the other possible ways to mount it securely?

Once again, thanks for the help.





-yonton228/timmy

 

[Gyrfalcon]

go 1/2" on tubing and use the Yates for lower noise fans

 

[movax]

Well it looks like you've got a performance rig and my recommendations are as such:
Fans: Nothing beats Yate Loons in terms of price/performance and performance/noise for the low-medium CFM end of the spectrum. They undervolt well without any mechanical noises and are optimized for the Thermochill PA radiators. Cathar even stated himself over on XS forums that he specifically used Yate Loon low CFM fans as his model fan for building the radiators.

Assuming a horizontal rad, I thought the Yate Loon's design family (sleeve bearing?) weren't supposed to be/didn't do as well when mounted horizontally? From what I've haerd, you wanna get FDB fans like the medium priced Scythe's or something, or maybe that was just for heatsink use.

 

[Top Nurse]

There's no acrylic to worry bout it dissolving/cracking/leakings.

I think Mr. Wizard has finally let us in on his storehouse of knowledge with a statement like that. Do more using and less reading and you might have something worth saying.

 

[Ranker]

I think Mr. Wizard has finally let us in on his storehouse of knowledge with a statement like that. Do more using and less reading and you might have something worth saying.

Still sore after the educated members of the [H] forum and those on XS debunked all of your lies, myths, and propaganda? Let's not derail this thread. There are people here actually seeking help rather than waiting for the door to door AC sales man to make their stop.

 

[Top Nurse]

Still sore after the educated members of the [H] forum and those on XS debunked all of your lies, myths, and propaganda? Let's not derail this thread. There are people here actually seeking help rather than waiting for the door to door AC sales man to make their stop.

You just made my twit list.

 

[Ranker]

Assuming a horizontal rad, I thought the Yate Loon's design family (sleeve bearing?) weren't supposed to be/didn't do as well when mounted horizontally? From what I've haerd, you wanna get FDB fans like the medium priced Scythe's or something, or maybe that was just for heatsink use.

Yates makes two types, Sleeve and Ball bearing fans. Sleeve are the quieter ones. I've used a horizontal mounted rad with Yates for roughly 6 months in one of my machines. Nothing has died or gone wrong, but this is purely anecdotal evidence.

On a side note, I've used Scythes before and they were my favorite until I read Vapors fan tests over on XS. Since then, Yates have been my favorite "quite" fan while Papst and Sharkoon Golfballs have become my favorite high speed fans: lots of static pressure, great CFM/noise ratios.

Anyways, that is my proposed layout for my first WC setup. Also, what are some of the recommended ways of attaching the RAD to the outside of a case. For reference I am using a Gigabyte 570 Aurora (bought it back in October before the mags and sites boasted about it ) . I am thinking of calling around a few machine shops around where I live and see if they can make me a custom bracket mounting for the RAD. However I really don't want to spend too much money. So, what are some of the other possible ways to mount it securely?

Most people will mount it on the back of your case using a radbox. However, one can mount it up top with an self made brace and cut openings for the tubing down into the case.

You just made my twit list.

I'm honored!