Getting 7/16" tubing on D5's barbs?! How?

Vlad_13

Vlad_13

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Jun 22, 2006
Messages
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How tha hell do you get 7/16" ID 9/16"OD tubing on the barbs of the D5? (I just got yesterday 12 feet of TYGON R3400 Black, redoing my water cooling)
I can put this tubing on 1/2" high flow barbs easily but the other ones... uhhh I need help on that one.
 
Have you tired the old trick of putting the end of the hose in very hot water for a few seconds and then quickly shoving it on the barb ?

(experiment with a short scrap of tubing for how long you need to heat it etc etc. before you do real work)


I am US and "putting" is a word to me, course English(UK) people would contend we dont speak English (and I would agree somewhat).

As in "I had difficulity putting the hose over the large barb" English professor might not like it but its good ole English(USA) to me.


and your English is light years better than my Russian (or whatever). :D
 
Brute force. Get a portion of the inside edge of the tubing on the barb and go from there. Saliva works ok as lube if needed. 7/16x5/8 Masterkleer is a similar pain to get on there.
 
I did the hot water trick for getting the tubing on my MCP655. It's a real pain in the ass even with the tubing heated up though.
 
Boiling the tip of one end for about 10s will make it soft and pliable. Also some KY jelly works as well if you apply a small amount on the tip.
 
Noob question about tubing size:

What factors does it affect? Obviously(?), bigger tubing = more water, but bigger/better pump to power it through there? Also, less flexible perhaps than smaller tubing?

Seems like the smaller cross-sectional area of smaller tubing would increase pressure or somethign though. I feel nothing when grabbing my 1/2" tubing, but it does require some force to squeeze at least.
 
7/16 is more pliable and has a smaller footprint resulting in less blocked airflow in your case. 1/2" ID offers more flow and is easier to install on barbs and remove from barbs.
 
gerrrr.... :mad: got a blister on my thumb cuz of the hot tubing after boiling water... But i got it on, it sure was major pain in the ass.

heh, i love the way 7/16" looks compared to fat Tygon 1/2" way way better :p
 
Vlad_13 said:
gerrrr.... :mad: got a blister on my thumb cuz of the hot tubing after boiling water... But i got it on, it sure was major pain in the ass.

heh, i love the way 7/16" looks compared to fat Tygon 1/2" way way better :p
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Just wait until you try to take 7/16" off of barbs, especially the plastic ones. I use both sizes in my various builds depending on the amount of space I have to work with. However, 7/16" is just a pita to put on and especially remove. You'll have to most likely cut the tubing and then torque it until it comes off. Sometimes this warps the barbs and on occasion it'll torque your barbs off the block, sometimes damaging it. Just gotta be careful.
 
Nah, I guess this tubing will stay for a long long time, i bought like everything best i could that it would last me. Got Pentosin G12, PT Nuke, some nice distiled water, and I cleaned everything I had, pump, rads etc. Will flush the loop maybe 2, 3 times be fore putting final liquid in to the loop. So if I will dismantle the loop that would probably be last stop. :(
 
post some pics when you are done! R3400 is hawt looking stuff. I plumbed my whole machine with it and i couldnt be happier. It is a bit stiff compared to masterkleer but resists kinking very well. The UV resistance couldnt hurt either.:D
 
Vlad_13 said:
Nah, I guess this tubing will stay for a long long time, i bought like everything best i could that it would last me. Got Pentosin G12, PT Nuke, some nice distiled water, and I cleaned everything I had, pump, rads etc. Will flush the loop maybe 2, 3 times be fore putting final liquid in to the loop. So if I will dismantle the loop that would probably be last stop. :(
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According to the manufacturer, R3603 and masterkleer will cloud/corrode no matter what. However, the worse your coolant composition is, the faster it happens (as in the case of PC Ice, Fluid XP, and MCT).

The only sure fire tubing that won't get eaten up/cloud/corrode is Tygon 2075, Tygon 2275, and B-44-3. Tygon 2075 is the most chemically resistant, but it's cloudy and quite stiff (like my pecker in a strip club). According to some prelim results from other members over in XS, B-44-3 is as soft/pliable as R3603, 90% of its clarity. The only bad thing about it compared to 2075 is its bend radius doesn't match the 1.5" bend radius of R3603 or 2075.

That being said, I've rebuilt my loops about 7-8 times the past 3 months alone >.< . I've spent $60 on Tygon 2075, 50$ on Tygon R3603, and 90$ on Tygon B-44-3,
 
Ranker said:
Boiling the tip of one end for about 10s will make it soft and pliable. Also some KY jelly works as well if you apply a small amount on the tip.
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I've used gun oil to help with getting tubing over barbs. I am from Alabama, though...
 
Ranker said:
According to the manufacturer, R3603 and masterkleer will cloud/corrode no matter what. However, the worse your coolant composition is, the faster it happens (as in the case of PC Ice, Fluid XP, and MCT).
Click to expand...

I'm baffled why my Masterkleer is crudding over, I only run distilled with a few drops of PT Nuke. That brew seems relatively inert to me, hmmmm?

You can see new tubing going to the bottom rad compared to ~3 month old tubing in this shot.

3_rad001.jpg
 
I mentioned this in another post on this forum. All tubing from most manufacturers will cloud no matter what: Masterkleer, Tygon R3603, Primochill, etc. The amount of additives you put in your loop will speed up the corrosion. The tubing walls eventually corrode into the loop resulting in the clouding. Stuff like PC Ice, MCT, Fluid XP, and certain dyes will greatly accelerate process.

Saint Gobain officially mentions Tygon 2075 as the only one suitable for water cooling without any sort of clouding or tubing breakdown. However, there is mention that Tygon B-44-3 and Tygon 2275 will also work but won't be recognized officially by Saint Gobain.

I've used all tubing with the exception of Tygon 2275. Tygon 2075 is not very clear, its a milky white color and very stiff. However, it has the best bend radius. Tygon B-44-3 is almost as clear as R3603 and should be chemically resistant to clouding/tube breakdown. However, it isn't officially recognized by Saint Gobain as being the choice tubing for water cooling and its bend radius isn't as good as Tygon 2075.
 
Thats why i got my self R3400, i read it is also very chemical resistant so guess it will not cloud inside, even if it would it's black :p i cant see what's inside :D and it looks freekin awesome! Still waiting for some wc stuff i ordered, my new loop should be done next week or so. I'll post some pics.
 
http://plasticdistribution.net/tygon-tubing.htm
that is a really good quick comparison chart for the different types of Tygon.
R3400 is pretty robust stuff.

R3400 shows exceptional resistance to strong acids and many alkalies. Black in color, it is resistant to ultraviolet light, ozone and weathering, making it ideal for many outdoor applications. It has sufficient wall thickness to block transmission of all UV light. UL 94V-O and UL 94HB flammability rating.
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Having been considering a chilled alcohol loop for a while that 2700 is pretty tempting...:D
 
heat it up, then slip it over a scissors and pull the handles apart, so it stretches the tubing, then while it is held big in the scissors run cold water over it, it makes it stay in that shape/size longer, then you put it over the hose barb and heat it again, then it shrinks back to it's original shape/size
 
Justin_Diduch said:
post some pics when you are done! R3400 is hawt looking stuff. I plumbed my whole machine with it and i couldnt be happier. It is a bit stiff compared to masterkleer but resists kinking very well. The UV resistance couldnt hurt either.:D
Click to expand...

Black tubing looks sooo good! R3400 is A-mazing, i cant wait to finish it, I think by tomorrow it will be done, here is a pic what i got so far :D

 
your tube routing is a lot better than i ever got before i gave up wcing, too much work
 
best [486];1031182535 said:
your tube routing is a lot better than i ever got before i gave up wcing, too much work
Click to expand...

The work is what makes it fun.
 
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