heat problems with dremel.

T

The_Dark_Hacker

Limp Gawd
Joined
Sep 7, 2004
Messages
133
i recently purchaced a new dremel. the xpr 400. really nice but i have noticed that after 10 minutes of use this thing gets REALLY hot. it gets so hot that i can only hold it for 5 seconds max. i am the only person that has experienced this. my old dremel never got this hot. post your expericences with your dremel and heat
 
noob answer: dont cover the vent holes

ive got that'n too, but i have no problems. its a dream. i think u might be covering the vent holes. just work around them.
 
no accually i hold the dremel at the backm, away from the vent holes. i know better than to cover the holes
 
lube the cutting bit / cutting wheel with WD_40 (at the point where its cutting the case while it runs, 2 man project) it will cut down on the friction and take some of the load off the motor
 
My dremel overheats fairly quickly too. I guess they were not made to be used 5+min. What I mainly used for case modding now is a DeWalt grinder. Works a lot quicker, and you dont have to replace the disks as often.
 
hmm. ive done no mantenence and all to mine, at it is cool as a cucumber most of the time.
 
i will try some wd 40 but i am not sure how much that will help. another question. how long does it take for your to cool down. mine takes at least an 30 minutes for it to become warm and not sizzling hot.
 
Don't bear down on a dremel when using it. Let the RPM's do the cutting. Unlike most power tools, Dremel's don't have a lot of torque. If you put a lot of pressure on the cutting bit, it'll cry like a little girl (i.e. get really hot).
 
most of the time when i am cutting metal i put it at the highest it can go and go slow. maybe i need to blow it out since i have been doing alot of lexan work lately which makes ALOT of dust
 
OKANG said:
Don't bear down on a dremel when using it. Let the RPM's do the cutting. Unlike most power tools, Dremel's don't have a lot of torque. If you put a lot of pressure on the cutting bit, it'll cry like a little girl (i.e. get really hot).
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Seconding. If you are bearing down on the cut so hard that the revoution significantly slow down, you are fucking up badly and will soon own a burned out hunk of junk.
Light pressure - let speed do the work.
 
Ive got this handpiece that is extremely slim, and made out of metal. It heats up really fast too. Even if i just turn it on and dont do anything, within 5-mins its uncomfortably hot, and at 10 minutes i have to stop cause its starting to burn. (its a flex shaft extension with a "T2"? handle)
 
As said by others (and seconded by my own experience) do NOT use hard force with a Dremel. Not only will it not cut as effectively, it will heat up considerably and put undue stress on the motor, plus you'll go through double the number of cutting wheels. Use lighter pressure. If you're cutting a blowhole or side window, make several repeated circuits. Use the first pass to get a light, straight groove that exactly matches the template you drew on your case. Then use successive passes to deepen the groove until you're cut all the way through. This will take more work with steel than with aluminum, so if you're doing a steel case, you need to be even more patient. Use the fiberglass-reinforced cutting wheels, and expect to go through a few if you're doing steel (cutting two holes in my last steel case took 1.5 wheels, my new aluminum case took maybe 10-20% of one wheel to cut a hole in comparison).
 
UT-Jackal said:
Ive got this handpiece that is extremely slim, and made out of metal. It heats up really fast too. Even if i just turn it on and dont do anything, within 5-mins its uncomfortably hot, and at 10 minutes i have to stop cause its starting to burn. (its a flex shaft extension with a "T2"? handle)
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Same cautions exist - don't bear down hard. And don't flew that cable very much. Lastly, get some speedometer cable lube from an auto parts store and lube the cable inside the housing.
 
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