Go to Lian-Li's website -- there are plenty of choices. If you liked PC06, PC7 would fit you well (it basically replace 2x80mm fans with 1x120mm). They don't make it anymore, but there are plenty of successors/derivatives.
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I got my LianLi PC-A05B ! it's Small!
- Thread starter Ockie
- Start date
Until I get the case and measure everything it will be hard to know how the side panels will go on.
I like the way the T-60F looks with the two fan holes and no I/O panel on top so I will still order it. One way or another I will have the fans in the rear. I might have to make some clips out of aluminum and epoxy them to the inside of the top of the side covers but I will make it work and look proper.
I am looking at a GTX260 video card with the new Scythe Setsugen VGA cooler that will be coming out.
http://www.fudzilla.com/content/view/14368/1/
The other video link should work as i tested it. It is the Lian Li B10 case but you can see how sleek the window looks.
One thing I am doing is to make this PC as quiet as possible. It might cost another $100 but it will be worth it to me.
I like the way the T-60F looks with the two fan holes and no I/O panel on top so I will still order it. One way or another I will have the fans in the rear. I might have to make some clips out of aluminum and epoxy them to the inside of the top of the side covers but I will make it work and look proper.
I am looking at a GTX260 video card with the new Scythe Setsugen VGA cooler that will be coming out.
http://www.fudzilla.com/content/view/14368/1/
The other video link should work as i tested it. It is the Lian Li B10 case but you can see how sleek the window looks.
One thing I am doing is to make this PC as quiet as possible. It might cost another $100 but it will be worth it to me.
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So...about this case...it's definitely tiny. Will this small size aid in cooling? Did I read right where intake is in the rear & exhaust is in the front?
I'm currently running 2 DVD-R/W's & 2 HDD's. Will this hinder me if I decide to go the water cooling route?
I'm currently running 2 DVD-R/W's & 2 HDD's. Will this hinder me if I decide to go the water cooling route?
The 7B Plus II seems to be highly-modable also, understanding that
it does not have the reverse airflow of the A05B.
Are these both built of the same quality of materials?
I have read just about this entire thread
and have read shorter books than this!
it does not have the reverse airflow of the A05B.
Are these both built of the same quality of materials?
I have read just about this entire thread
and have read shorter books than this!
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I have a couple questions regarding proper cooling and airflow using this case. I purchased this case as part of a build I completed in June 2008. While I have built many high-end gaming computers over the years, I must admit I'm a relative notice when it comes to adequate cooling. I've usually got by with stock stuff and not that much hassle, with usually top-of-the-line video cards (have never used/needed SLI though).
I knew at the time of building the computer that this case had a "reverse airflow" issue. I also spent a great deal of time trying to figure out how best to orient my CPU fan on the aftermarket heatsink I got; whether to pull hot air off of it or blow cold air on it.
I'm going to just post a pic or two of my set-up and I'd appreciate if you could comment and just telling me what I'm doing wrong. It seems like I completely screwed up the placement of the fan, and I also want to make sure its flowing the right way. Should I flip the fan to the opposite side of the heatsink?
The reason I am pursuing this is because, while my computer is pretty stable, sometimes my video card gets that driver error and stops responding, or I get a monochromatic screen draw and a hard lock when playing 3d-accelerated games. So I'm thinking video card or PSU. I'm gonna have my PSU RMA'ed just in case, because it's got a fan issue anyway, but I also think maybe my video card is running hot.
It might be running hot because of my poor system airflow or because I have a PCI-E soundcard slapped right infront of it. Unfortunately, I had no choice in placement because it won't fit in the slot on the other side of the video card.
My CPU temps at idle are about 45 C. My vid card with EVGA precision fan speed set to auto is around 56-60 C. At load it can get up to like 85. It's been difficult for me to monitor it effectively to determine if the hard locks always happen when the temp is spiking.
I was thinking of trying out a PCI slot fan (w/o an exhaust port) to push air straight up into the main airflow, or getting an exhaust pci fan but was concerned that would mess with things. I'd also consider replacing the two main fans.
I understand that a blowhole seems to be the easiest and best solution, but unfortunately I have absolutely no skill with dremels or other such tools and don't own any right now. I'm trying to track down someone who might be able to do it for me.
Thanks.
I knew at the time of building the computer that this case had a "reverse airflow" issue. I also spent a great deal of time trying to figure out how best to orient my CPU fan on the aftermarket heatsink I got; whether to pull hot air off of it or blow cold air on it.
I'm going to just post a pic or two of my set-up and I'd appreciate if you could comment and just telling me what I'm doing wrong. It seems like I completely screwed up the placement of the fan, and I also want to make sure its flowing the right way. Should I flip the fan to the opposite side of the heatsink?
The reason I am pursuing this is because, while my computer is pretty stable, sometimes my video card gets that driver error and stops responding, or I get a monochromatic screen draw and a hard lock when playing 3d-accelerated games. So I'm thinking video card or PSU. I'm gonna have my PSU RMA'ed just in case, because it's got a fan issue anyway, but I also think maybe my video card is running hot.
It might be running hot because of my poor system airflow or because I have a PCI-E soundcard slapped right infront of it. Unfortunately, I had no choice in placement because it won't fit in the slot on the other side of the video card.
My CPU temps at idle are about 45 C. My vid card with EVGA precision fan speed set to auto is around 56-60 C. At load it can get up to like 85. It's been difficult for me to monitor it effectively to determine if the hard locks always happen when the temp is spiking.
I was thinking of trying out a PCI slot fan (w/o an exhaust port) to push air straight up into the main airflow, or getting an exhaust pci fan but was concerned that would mess with things. I'd also consider replacing the two main fans.
I understand that a blowhole seems to be the easiest and best solution, but unfortunately I have absolutely no skill with dremels or other such tools and don't own any right now. I'm trying to track down someone who might be able to do it for me.
Thanks.
Valaire, great post. Your CPU fan is oriented correctly ... I'd move it to the other side of the heatsink though to afford for a smoother inflow from the fan on the back of the case.
Your computer problems are most likely due to the videocard overheating (if it is overheating -- but you've made sure there are no problems when the setup is run outside of the case, right?). This case is known for creating a pocket of hot air in the top-rear section, right above your video card. The best way to fight it is to make a blowhole in the top cover, my impression from reading this thread that various other solutions are, on average, not as effective.
Your computer problems are most likely due to the videocard overheating (if it is overheating -- but you've made sure there are no problems when the setup is run outside of the case, right?). This case is known for creating a pocket of hot air in the top-rear section, right above your video card. The best way to fight it is to make a blowhole in the top cover, my impression from reading this thread that various other solutions are, on average, not as effective.
Thanks for the reply. I'll try to work on the blowhole thing but that will take me a couple months to set-up. For now, though, is it worthwhile to either:
1) Replace the existing fans.
2) Get a PCI slot fan that blows air straight up (and seemingly against the GPU fan): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835888112
3) Get a PCI slot fan that exhausts air out the back (which is already included on my video card).
As to airflow, is it optimal, with my setup, to have the air intake from the rear, pass through the heatsink into the cpu fan which continues to blow that air across to the exhaust?
Before I open my case again, I also just wanted to verify a small concern: What's the easiest way to verify which way a fan is set up to blow. Is the side with the 4 spokes on it the direction the air is blowing to?
1) I don't think replacing the existing fans is going to bring much of an improvement (unless the existing ones are not working)
2), 3) I think the best "for now" solution is to take the side panels off (or the top, if you want to drill out the rivets, which you'd have to do anyway, for the blowhole)
Don't change the airflow, leave it back to front.
Yes, fans blow air in the direction of the spokes (at least couple of dozens I've seen did). Often, there are arrows on the narrow side on the fan showing rotation and airflow directions.
2), 3) I think the best "for now" solution is to take the side panels off (or the top, if you want to drill out the rivets, which you'd have to do anyway, for the blowhole)
Don't change the airflow, leave it back to front.
Yes, fans blow air in the direction of the spokes (at least couple of dozens I've seen did). Often, there are arrows on the narrow side on the fan showing rotation and airflow directions.
Would like to understand the airflow that would exist in the A05B
after installation of one or more blowholes?
Would both the front and rear then be intakes,
and the blowhole/s as exhaust? Or is the blowhole
usually an additional intake?
I understand that the rear is always, or should be intake, and that
the front is always, or should be exhaust.
I would be standard cooling only.
after installation of one or more blowholes?
Would both the front and rear then be intakes,
and the blowhole/s as exhaust? Or is the blowhole
usually an additional intake?
I understand that the rear is always, or should be intake, and that
the front is always, or should be exhaust.
I would be standard cooling only.
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the rear will still be intake, the front exhaust and the top blow hole also exhaust. you know heatrise and this will just help further. I actually measured the temp of the air coming out of my top blowhole during gaming and it was 100F! Imagine that heat really having no where to go
Viperlover
Gawd
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2006
- Messages
- 631
with my 2 120mm blowholes up top, I swapped the front fan to an intake and my temps dropped quite a bit
front = intake
back = intake
2x top = exhaust
front = intake
back = intake
2x top = exhaust
That sounds great.
Can you give me any cutting tips on lining up the two holes, or
did you have a company cut them?
What fans/grill did you use?
I am going to probably use Noctua's.
With 2x120mm on top this probably makes sense ... my concern here would be inability to put a dust filter on the front fan (while using it as intake).
I've been searching for a new project, now I'm sure what I want to start my next build in. The A05 is perfect for me, I'm going to start searching the For Sale threads/web to find a case to start with. Thanks for all the great ideas, I look forward to sharing and getting all your input on my new build!
Okay, so I was trying to flip my heatsink and fan, and now my heatsink surface is not working properly. I just washed off the artic silver with a microfiber cloth and isopropyl alcohol on the heatspreader and on the heatsink and reseated it with new artic silver and it's still not working.
The heatsink I have is a complete pain in the ass to seat and clamp down using the push pins so I'm wondering if anyone has any advice on how not to screw this up. I followed the instructions from Artic to the letter, but now my cpu temp starts at like 80 and climbs up til the computer shuts down.
The heatsink I have is a complete pain in the ass to seat and clamp down using the push pins so I'm wondering if anyone has any advice on how not to screw this up. I followed the instructions from Artic to the letter, but now my cpu temp starts at like 80 and climbs up til the computer shuts down.
zero2dash
Supreme [H]ardness
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2007
- Messages
- 6,100
I've ran a 9800GTX with stock dual slot cooling (same exact card/brand name, actually) in an A05 with no mod done at the time and I didn't have any problems.
Rear fan intake, front fan exhaust. 1 fan on TRUE in pull config. (all Yate Loon D12SL-12)
The stock fans aren't necessarily terrible, they do have decent airflow - they're just nosier than most people would like to have. Pick up Yates for cheap bang-for-the-buck, or get Scythe S-Flex if you feel like spending more. I wouldn't recommend Noctua NF-P12's; I think they're overrated (and prefer my SFF21E's to them).
Re-seating the heatsink, turn the pins in the opposite direction of the arrows (the arrows indicate what direction to turn them to unlock them) and install the heatsink with the board outside of the case. That's the best way I've found to install push pin heatsinks, the few times I've had to do it - that way, you can tell whether the pins went completely through and are installed correctly. Do it in an X pattern, one corner and then the opposite corner.
Rear fan intake, front fan exhaust. 1 fan on TRUE in pull config. (all Yate Loon D12SL-12)
The stock fans aren't necessarily terrible, they do have decent airflow - they're just nosier than most people would like to have. Pick up Yates for cheap bang-for-the-buck, or get Scythe S-Flex if you feel like spending more. I wouldn't recommend Noctua NF-P12's; I think they're overrated (and prefer my SFF21E's to them).
Re-seating the heatsink, turn the pins in the opposite direction of the arrows (the arrows indicate what direction to turn them to unlock them) and install the heatsink with the board outside of the case. That's the best way I've found to install push pin heatsinks, the few times I've had to do it - that way, you can tell whether the pins went completely through and are installed correctly. Do it in an X pattern, one corner and then the opposite corner.
I hate those pushpins. One of mine is always slightly bent and I have to wiggle a pair of pliars in to bend them back so they can get through the hole. If I can avoid it, I'm going to spend extra money to never have to mount something like that again.
That said, I reapplied artic and ran it outside the case for a bit. Seems ok. Gonna wait a bit longer before I go through putting it back in the case.
That said, I reapplied artic and ran it outside the case for a bit. Seems ok. Gonna wait a bit longer before I go through putting it back in the case.
Scratch that. *sigh*
Shut off again. Is it possible I permanently damaged the heatsink surface or heatspreader just by removing it the first time? I've followed the instructions in A5 and applied a thin horizontal line, then mounted the heatsink on it. Only thing I can think of is that I have to wiggle it a fair bit while getting the pushpins into place.
I guess I can try to upload some pics from my phone.
Shut off again. Is it possible I permanently damaged the heatsink surface or heatspreader just by removing it the first time? I've followed the instructions in A5 and applied a thin horizontal line, then mounted the heatsink on it. Only thing I can think of is that I have to wiggle it a fair bit while getting the pushpins into place.
I guess I can try to upload some pics from my phone.
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Just keeps getting worse. Now the computer won't post at all, just turns on and shuts off. Checked for grounding issues... This is outside the case and inside the case.
I understand I'm veering way off topic, so could a mod sever my threads and move them, or I can just delete.
I understand I'm veering way off topic, so could a mod sever my threads and move them, or I can just delete.
Atherton213
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2004
- Messages
- 1,863
ummm that coverage looks terrible... i would spread it on the whole chip your self since its not spreading out on its own
Unfortunately now I have a new problem with the computer turning off after 1 second of power, can't tell if I destroyed my CPU somehow or if I randomly introduced some other problem. I guess I'll take it out of the case once more and try to spread it with a credit card and see if it gets rid of both problems.
Rhinohelix
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2004
- Messages
- 218
That seems like to me the CPU cutting the power itself since it is getting hot. I had the same issue back in the P4 days and it turned out to be that the PCB of board had become bent enough that the heatsink wasn't making good contact with the CPU any longer. It was getting hot enough to force a shutdown within a couple of seconds, if not shorter. When I pulled the board it was obvious what was happening.
I would mount the heatsink on the cpu/board outside the case to get a good look at the contact profile. Best of luck!
BTW, love my PC-AO5B. Its an awesomely compact full size ATX case, and is helping me get over my Shuttle addiction.
I would mount the heatsink on the cpu/board outside the case to get a good look at the contact profile. Best of luck!
BTW, love my PC-AO5B. Its an awesomely compact full size ATX case, and is helping me get over my Shuttle addiction.
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Yeah, I've tried it outside the case. I feel like it made good contact the last few times I did it as I verified all push pins were in. I'll take a few more pictures on this attempt and maybe someone can spot something, otherwise it looks like I'll be without a computer for awhile.
Volkswagen
Supreme [H]ardness
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2002
- Messages
- 4,874
I believe that with the type of cooler you have ( Direct Touch heat pipes ) the key to success is to apply the thermal paste in tiny lines on the two Silver lines part of the heat sink and perhaps just a tiny bit on the cpu it self and that should spread much better then it is now....Do you have push pins? If you do do your self a favor and buy the bolt through mounting kit for like $10 to get some good pressure on there and your thermal paste will spread better.
Shorting out the power switch allowed it to turn on and stay on for 4 minutes until I manually shut it down. Thought I had it figured out until I tried to start the computer again by using the screwdriver and it won't start again.
So it started once and stayed on by not using the case's power switch, but now it goes back to 1 second turnoff. I can't feel any heat at all from cpu, and no visible signs that psu is malfunctioning.
Thought this info might be useful.
Once again, I'm sorry I'm posting in this thread but it just sort of happened, if a mod wants to sever this thread and move it, please feel free. Or I will delete it hopefully after this is solved.
So it started once and stayed on by not using the case's power switch, but now it goes back to 1 second turnoff. I can't feel any heat at all from cpu, and no visible signs that psu is malfunctioning.
Thought this info might be useful.
Once again, I'm sorry I'm posting in this thread but it just sort of happened, if a mod wants to sever this thread and move it, please feel free. Or I will delete it hopefully after this is solved.
Oh-crap, I did not see that your cooler is Xigmatek and you'd need to take the heatsink off the CPU in order to move the fan onto the other side ... Anyway, make sure you wash the existing heat paste away with isopropyl alchohol ($1.99 at Walmart). Use a backplate (here's a sample, a generic one for $7 will do) to mount the HSF properly and securely. If budget is not a huge issue you, might want to get a cooler that supports fans on both sides (and use two fans, if you'd like), e.g., Noctua (comes with backplate), Thermaltake, Megahalems, etc.
I've reseated it about 5 times now, cleaning it with 91% alcohol and a lens cleaner cloth. I believe I do have the pushpin heatsink mounted correctly as per the last image I posted, you can see all 4 male pushpins are pushed through the female heads. It feels secure. I don't think that's it.
Yeah, I'm not sure at the moment whether my problem is still the reseating of the heatsink or if it's something else. Still having same issue, computer powers on for 1 second and then terminates. The only thing I can add is that the PSU fan does not turn on, whereas the CPU fan and System fan do.
Is this telling or inconclusive regarding PSU failure?
Yeah, I'm not sure at the moment whether my problem is still the reseating of the heatsink or if it's something else. Still having same issue, computer powers on for 1 second and then terminates. The only thing I can add is that the PSU fan does not turn on, whereas the CPU fan and System fan do.
Is this telling or inconclusive regarding PSU failure?
Blazestorm
Supreme [H]ardness
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2007
- Messages
- 6,940
You try clearing the CMOS? My friend had an ABit board that did this if you just left it alone it actually turned back on a second later.. was called a dual-boot issue...
Either way, initially it would just turn on then back off, but clearing the CMOS fixed that.
Either way, initially it would just turn on then back off, but clearing the CMOS fixed that.
Well I bit the bullet and ordered my parts today. It went way over my budget but I wanted something that was fast and looked like a piece of art on my desk. I ended up with about $1850 including anodizing the case frame black and adding the window on the side.What do you think of the build so far?
Lian Li PC-A05NB case
Lian Li Replacement Top Panel for 60 series cases # T-60F (two 120mm fan holes and grills) Will be mounted with the fans in the rear.
Lian Li Universal CD cover C-02B
Lian Li Thumb Screws Black
1 Scythe 120mm PWM Fan DFS122512L-PWM for Cooler
Prolimatech Megahalem Cooler
Intel Core i7 920 D0
Scythe Kasemaster 3.5 black fan controller to control the 4 Gentle Typhoon fans. Two fans per channel.
4 Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm Silent Case Fans
2 for top Blowhole
2 for front and rear of case
EVGA 141-BL-E757-TR LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX X58 SLI LE Intel Motherboard – Retail
OCZ Gold 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Low Voltage Desktop Memory Model OCZ3G1600LV6GK
EVGA 896-P3-1170-AR GeForce GTX 275 896MB 448-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI supported Video Card
VerMedia AVerTVHD Duet PCTV tuner (A188) MTVHDDUET PCI-Express x1 Interface - Retail
LG Black 22X DVD+R SATA 22X DVD Burner - Bulk LightScribe Support - OEM
Patriot Torqx PFZ128GS25SSDR 2.5" 128GB SSD
Lian Li Hard Drive converting Kit 5.25” to 2.5” SSD
CORSAIR CMPSU-620HX 620W Modular Power Supply
Lian Li PC-A05NB case
Lian Li Replacement Top Panel for 60 series cases # T-60F (two 120mm fan holes and grills) Will be mounted with the fans in the rear.
Lian Li Universal CD cover C-02B
Lian Li Thumb Screws Black
1 Scythe 120mm PWM Fan DFS122512L-PWM for Cooler
Prolimatech Megahalem Cooler
Intel Core i7 920 D0
Scythe Kasemaster 3.5 black fan controller to control the 4 Gentle Typhoon fans. Two fans per channel.
4 Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm Silent Case Fans
2 for top Blowhole
2 for front and rear of case
EVGA 141-BL-E757-TR LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX X58 SLI LE Intel Motherboard – Retail
OCZ Gold 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Low Voltage Desktop Memory Model OCZ3G1600LV6GK
EVGA 896-P3-1170-AR GeForce GTX 275 896MB 448-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI supported Video Card
VerMedia AVerTVHD Duet PCTV tuner (A188) MTVHDDUET PCI-Express x1 Interface - Retail
LG Black 22X DVD+R SATA 22X DVD Burner - Bulk LightScribe Support - OEM
Patriot Torqx PFZ128GS25SSDR 2.5" 128GB SSD
Lian Li Hard Drive converting Kit 5.25” to 2.5” SSD
CORSAIR CMPSU-620HX 620W Modular Power Supply
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It depends on how far you're shipping. I've sent a bigger case (midtower) from NY to GA for about $18. You should be able to get an estimate at ups.com (UPS is probably more appropriate than USPS for case shipping).
yea ups would be the way i would go...thanks for the input just seeing what the range of the cost would be. also would ups pack it for me ..i dont have the original box
as much as i love this case i might be...im in the market for a slightly larger casewhy? are you trying to sell yours