Ivy Bridge Microcenter Build

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Polarhound

I suck at [H]F
Joined
Feb 11, 2003
Messages
1,305
1) What will you be doing with this PC? Gaming? Photoshop? Web browsing? etc

Web, Medium gaming (GW2, WoW, etc), office apps.

2) What's your budget? Are tax and shipping included?

$1000 is about my limit, this includes the tank of gas for the round trip into Boston to pick up.

3) Which country do you live in? If the U.S, please tell us the state and city if possible.

Springfield, MA

4) What exact parts do you need for that budget? CPU, RAM, case, etc. The word "Everything" is not a valid answer. Please list out all the parts you'll need.

CPU, Mobo, Cooler, Case, Memory, HDD, PS, OS

5) If reusing any parts, what parts will you be reusing? Please be especially specific about the power supply. List make and model.

CD-RW drive (which rarely if ever gets used anyways), 2GB GTX560 being moved to new system, wireless dongle, eventually 1TB SATA drive in use in current machine.

6) Will you be overclocking?

Mild to moderate, nothing earth shattering.

7) What is the max resolution of your monitor? What size is it?

HP 2311 23" WS 1920x1080, Acer 5202HL 19" WS 1600x900. Both already in use with current system/560.

8) When do you plan on building/buying the PC?

Ideally order tonight, drive out to Boston to pick up at Microcenter tomorrow.

9) What features do you need in a motherboard? RAID? Firewire? Crossfire or SLI support? USB 3.0? SATA 6Gb/s? eSATA? Onboard video (as a backup or main GPU)? UEFI? etc.

USB 3.0, SATA III are only real priorities. SLI and RAID not required.

10) Do you already have a legit and reusable/transferable OS key/license? If yes, what OS? Is it 32bit or 64bit?

Buying another 64bit license.

What I have so far:

GA-Z77X-UD3H LGA 1155 Z77 ATX Intel Motherboard - $114.99 (combo deal with CPU)
Core i5 3570K 3.4GHz LGA 1155 Processor - $189.99
Carbide Series 400R Mid Tower ATX Gaming Computer Case - $74.99 after $15 MIR
Hyper 212 EVO Universal CPU Cooler - $36.99
16GB DDR3-1600 (PC3-12800) CL 9 Dual Channel Desktop Memory Kit (4x4GB Memory Modules) - $82.99 after $20 MIR
Deskstar 7K1000.D 500GB 7,200RPM 32MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - OEM - $79.99
DELETED Link Depot 19.69" SATA III Round Cable with Left Angle[/url] - $4.99
DELETED CM High Performance Thermal Grease[/url] - $2.99
DELETED TR2 Series 600 Watt ATX Power Supply[/url] - $49.99 after $10 MIR
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit OEM (PC) - $99.99
ADDED Silencer Mk III Series 600 Watt ATX Modular Power Supply - $69.99 after $20 MIR

Subtotal: $804.92
Tax: $50.31
Gas/Tolls: $40.00
UPDATED Total: $895.23 before $55 total MIR

I did consider an SSD, but my old system will need to stay up and running for a few months at least before moving the 1TB drive over. In the meantime, a 128GB SSD will not be enough for what I need... I'd still have to buy a 2nd drive to have enough room, which I would really rather not do.
 
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One significant problem with that build is your choice of a PSU:

As Danny Bui noted and another user of the [H] has proven, the Thermaltake TR2 600W PSU is one of that company's worst PSUs as far as quality and performance for the wattage and dollar is concerned. In fact, most Thermaltake PSUs that are not of the Toughpower line cannot handle anywhere near their advertised wattage at all (at least not without severely damaging some or all of the core components of your new build). In the case of that particular PSU, you're basically paying a 600W price for what's effectively only a 350W to 400W PSU in realistic operating conditions (this has been confirmed by the aforementioned [H] forum user whose system that used that same PSU had experienced severe power and stability issues with a configuration that's more modest than your planned build, which were solved only by replacing that PSU with a better-quality but lower-wattage-rated PSU from another brand). Thermaltake, with this particular TR2 line (the ones that are less than 80 percent efficient, and thus do not carry the 80 Plus certification at all), consistently claims a significantly higher wattage than what the platforms that they are actually built on (HEC/Compucase, in the case of most of these models including the 600W) are actually designed to handle in the first place.

In addition, are you going to upgrade the RAM above your planned 16GB in the near future? If so, then you will need Windows 7 Professional 64-bit instead of Home Premium as Home Premium is artificially limited to 16GB (Home Premium will run on a system with more than 16GB of RAM installed, but only the first 16GB of that RAM will be addressed in that OS). Windows 7 Professional 64-bit supports up to 192GB of RAM.
 
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Yes, that TR2 PSU is pretty shitty. So go for this Antec 520W PSU then:
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0348766

Thermal paste wise, kind of a waste of money considering that the HSF already comes with thermal paste. And probably one that performs similarily too.

Also, is near instant gratification worth spending $88 to you? I mean you're really only saving $22 on the CPU and mobo alone after all is said and done.
 
I have no plans to go above 16GB at any point in the foreseeable future. This is already going to be doubling the 8GB in my current box.

The ps is open for recommendations, which also include throwing a cheaper one in my old box and taking the 750w Antec from there as well.

As for instant gratification, when the other options involve spending more and waiting several days as opposed to a nice Sunday drive, why wouldn't I?
 
I just dug through the PS forums, got a lot of "don't buy this one" "don't buy that one" but very few "this is a good PS". Also checked the PS review list, but the majority of reviews are the 1Kw and up, or don't have the brands listed I'm looking it. I did find some of the brands HOCP reviews by going through Google instead, surprising that they weren't on the dropdown list of manufacturers (Diablotek, for example)

Edit: Build updated
 
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Polarhound said:
The ps is open for recommendations, which also include throwing a cheaper one in my old box and taking the 750w Antec from there as well.
Click to expand...
What's the specs of the older box?
Which Antec 750W?
Polarhound said:
As for instant gratification, when the other options involve spending more and waiting several days as opposed to a nice Sunday drive, why wouldn't I?
Click to expand...
Well not paying more since the tax and gas tolls are negating a bit of that and you're factoring in MIR when we generally don't. But fair enough.
Polarhound said:
I just dug through the PS forums, got a lot of "don't buy this one" "don't buy that one" but very few "this is a good PS". Also checked the PS review list, but the majority of reviews are the 1Kw and up, or don't have the brands listed I'm looking it. I did find some of the brands HOCP reviews by going through Google instead, surprising that they weren't on the dropdown list of manufacturers (Diablotek, for example)
Click to expand...

A tad outdated but this is a fairly comprehensive list of good PSU reviews:
http://www.overclock.net/t/738097/psu-review-database
 
Danny Bui said:
What's the specs of the older box?
Which Antec 750W?
Click to expand...

Old box is an E5500 w/8GB PC-1066 (4x2GB), 1TB hdd (less than 1/3rd full), 2GB GTX560, can't remember which Antec 750 I put in there, would have to pop open the case.

Well not paying more since the tax and gas tolls are negating a bit of that and you're factoring in MIR when we generally don't. But fair enough.
Click to expand...

The price I originally posted was the out-the-door price before MIR. In my updated list I listed them out as well. For me, also have to factor in how much enjoyment I will get out of a leisurely Sunday drive on a beautiful spring New England day :)


A tad outdated but this is a fairly comprehensive list of good PSU reviews:
http://www.overclock.net/t/738097/psu-review-database
Click to expand...

I'll check it out, thanks.

(edit): Updated PS in Build to PC Power & Cooling Silencer 600W.
 
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Bah, just went to put in the order and now they are out of stock on the PS...
 
Ouch. Go for the Corsair TX650 V2 or Antec High Current Gamer 620W then. Do not go for the Corsair TX650M as it's of lesser quality/performance than the TX650 V2.
 
I'll take a look for those. The really odd thing is that it said before I ordered that they have 3 in the Boston store, the reservation email said it was not available... but now the site shows 2 available in store. The rest of the parts, I ordered and will be picking up tomorrow.
 
So far, so good. Have the basic parts installed, sitting at the BIOS screen right now because I still need to move over an SATA optical drive to start installing windows.... turns out the one in my current box is dead as a doornail.

I got thrown for a loop on the HSF install. I put it on how I thought it was right, then realized that the backplate could conceivably mount backwards. I hit up Google and find only pictures of it backwards. Shit. Take it all apart, go to flip over the plate, and find that now the standoffs don't reach, and I actually had it on the right way the first time.

For the PS, I did end up getting eh P&C 600w. Turns out that despite them saying it wasn't available for reservation, they did in fact pull one for me. I get there this morning, grab one off the shelf, then head over to the pickup area to find one already waiting for me. Idle voltage loads in the BIOS are strong: 3.383 for +3.3, 12.096v for +12, Vcore 1.152, Dram 1.512.

Going to leave it running in the BIOS while I run down to Worst Buy for another optical drive.

I do have one gripe about this Corsair case... The trays to hold the 3.5" drives are rather flimsy. They latch into place ok once you have a drive in them, but they look and feel cheap, especially compared to the rest of the case which has been very solid and easy to work in. Two trays in particular are warped and refuses to seat properly.
 
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Cool.

Yeah the Coolermaster Hyper 212 was a tad confusing when I first installed it. Sorry to see that you're having issues with that case.
 
Other than the one small issue, everything is proceeding smoothly. Just started the Windows install, then hopefully the Toshiba Data Link Cable I found there (and later found out it was discontinued a few years ago) work. For $10, I figured I could spin the wheel on it.

One other thing I noticed about the 212 Evo.. Even after tightening everything down, I noticed that it is still able to turn back and forth slightly. I do have the side pin properly lined up. This normal with this HSF? Idle temps were around 30c with an open case, so didn't seem too out of whack.
 
Polarhound said:
Just started the Windows install, then hopefully the Toshiba Data Link Cable I found there (and later found out it was discontinued a few years ago) work. For $10, I figured I could spin the wheel on it.
Click to expand...

Just make sure that you got a backup of your data just in case.
Polarhound said:
One other thing I noticed about the 212 Evo.. Even after tightening everything down, I noticed that it is still able to turn back and forth slightly. I do have the side pin properly lined up. This normal with this HSF? Idle temps were around 30c with an open case, so didn't seem too out of whack.
Click to expand...
It's normal AFAIK.
 
The hyper 212+ install process is, I think, roughly equivalent to the 212 EVO. I had mocked up the backplate mounted vertically and found it wouldn't work in my case (AMD tabs hit the cutout). I pulled the dremel and started grinding down the AMD mounting tabs when I had a moment of (delayed) enlightenment - rotate it and mount horizontally! Point is, the directions somewhat suck, so you have to mock up the whole thing before tightening everything down.

Re: HS rotation, it doesn't make a difference. The contact is still tight. There are reports all around of the 212s being fairly loose w.r.t. rotation, but I've never seen reports of the 212, 212+, or 212 Evo performing any worse because of it - usually it's a TIM problem, not the rotation.
 
Woofer00 said:
Re: HS rotation, it doesn't make a difference. The contact is still tight. There are reports all around of the 212s being fairly loose w.r.t. rotation, but I've never seen reports of the 212, 212+, or 212 Evo performing any worse because of it - usually it's a TIM problem, not the rotation.
Click to expand...

Considering this was the first time in several years I have had the occasion to apply TIM, I'm surprised at how much smoother it went on than I remember for getting full-but-paper-thin coverage. It could just be how the TIM that comes with the Evo flows, but it was just about the easiest application of it I ever did.
 
Ditto on that. I tried ICD7, but it was a complete and utter waste. It's super thick and hard to work into the DHT crevices. I probably overapplied the stock compound that came with the 212+ (the Evo has a MUCH smoother mating surface), but no apparent harm thus far.
 
Woofer00 said:
Ditto on that. I tried ICD7, but it was a complete and utter waste. It's super thick and hard to work into the DHT crevices. I probably overapplied the stock compound that came with the 212+ (the Evo has a MUCH smoother mating surface), but no apparent harm thus far.
Click to expand...

Ideally I shoot for a translucent layer; applying it to the HSF side, I should be able to make out the copper through the compound. Being that TIM is ideally only filling in microscopic crevices, it should be applied like Brylcream: A Little Dab'l Do Ya.

If I had more time and inclination, I might of brought it into work with me and hit the surface with some 2000 grit Abralon, but those days are behind me. I'm happy now with "Works"
 
One other minor annoyance I forgot I wanted to mention, just in case anyone runs into it again:

The Silencer Mk III 600W PS can only be mounted in the Corsair 400 case in such a way thatthe 2x4pin ATX wires will NOT reach if you try to route them behind the motherboard tray. This is due to the center area of the intake fan grate on the PS protruding slightly in the center. This makes it hit against the bottom grate, preventing the mounting holes from lining up properly, and as a result the reach for the 2x4pin ATX plugs is about 2" too short. The only usable routing method is up and around the HSF.
 
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