Just pulled the trigger on first WCing, would like some input.

robble said:
yep, those tiny bubbles will eventually disappear. You can see any movement on the surface of the water in the res? That's how I can tell mine is moving.
Click to expand...
Yeah I can see the top of the water line moving a little bit, its still kinda hard to see though since its a 250ml res and both the inlet and outlet are at the bottom.

SDNYC09 said:
tip the case back and forth , give it a shake to loosen the bubbles... they will all clear out in time... after a few hours open the top screw to the res let some air out...i would have put a flow meter...just to make sure the fluid is moving...
Click to expand...

Ok cool, I was doing that in the beginning to get the big bubbles out and I will continue to do that. I think I'm going to add a flow meter eventually just to be on the safe side.

I can plug the pumps tach sensor into the mobo and have the mobo monitor the flow rate right? Well I guess it would technically be RPMs, but same thing in the end.
 
Again... i said my own experience and i am just trying to offer a fellow [H] some help...


to add to your comment i did find out later the flow was being restricted by the swiftech apolgy being clogged after long use... i had to boil it in vinegar...



flick the hose with your finger by some bubbles and check how fast they are moving

ill post pics of my setup maybe you can pick it apart for me ...

DSC01458.jpg


DSC01459.jpg


DSC01453.jpg


DSC01448.jpg


DSC01450.jpg


DSC01447-1.jpg
 
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Well I know its moving because when I was first getting the larger bubbles out I would see them zipping through the tubing, but now that most of those bigger bubbles are gone there is really nothing that I can see visually that the water is moving. All I can do now is feel the pump for its slight vibration so that I know its still working lol.
 
add a flow meter or get a bay res ...you never know and it has happened to me that the pump was humming but not pumping anything..

for your first build you did a great job... its very easy to buy a case ready to go like i did, but its another thing to make the case like you did...good luck with everything
 
Thanks for the comments and help, I'm very proud of myself lol, as nerve racking as it was. If I had the money I probably would have gone the easy route and bought a WC ready case, but I didnt and I paid a pretty penny for this case a couple years ago and really like it anyway.

I like your setup alot, I actually considered getting a silverstone case if I had the money, mainly the TJ07.

So now, is there a certain trick to adding a flow meter somewhere, like can I do it without draining the system or is that just going to have to happen? I was just going to get a simple 20 buck meter with just the visual wheel inside, I dont really need the tach sensor or anything.
 
I used 10% Prestone coolant system treatment on my las fill, and I didn't have any of those little bubbles, the stuff works great, its like a polymer pump lubricating water wetter.

There's always a lot of talk about loop order, but what about the benifit of flow rate directly on the CPU waterblock from the pump, vs going through a couple of radiators or other blocks first? I was under the impression that having the fastest most turbulant flow right on the CPU was best. Of couse in my set up I go through a 240mm rad first, just due to how the hardware is set up.
 
SDNYC09 said:
ill post pics of my setup maybe you can pick it apart for me ...[/IMG]
Click to expand...

I like how you have the radiator in sideways at the bottom. Looks like you've learned something about flow.. Unless I'm mistaken I see two pumps in there :D

I can only see one 320 rad and a 120. Do you have another one hidden in there somewhere? (just looking at it vs your sig)
 
i had the 2 3x120 rads on my corsair 800 d case ... after i got the tj11 i felt no need ...so i just added a 120gtx rad with push pull... the question is ... what do you think the extra thickness of these gtx rads is equal to ... i always wondered... i just didnt like the flow i was getting with 1 pump its kinda a long loop


the 2 7970 never go above 40c ...cpu max load around 58c
 
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SDNYC09 said:
. the question is ... what do you think the extra thickness of these gtx rads is equal to
Click to expand...

dunno, but my gpu dropped 20c under load going from a swiftech 240 rad to a single 360gtx
 
SDNYC09 said:
the question is ... what do you think the extra thickness of these gtx rads is equal to
Click to expand...

Black Ice GTX:
Yields up to 45% more heat exchange capacity than the Black Ice® Xtreme in both Stealth or Performance modes.
Achieves Black Ice® Xtreme level performance in stealth mode (low-noise/low-airflow conditions).

Black Ice Xtreme 120mm 3134BTU per hour,
153 x 133 x 45mm (5.9 x 5 x 1.69 inch)

Black Ice GTX120
133mm wide x 157mm tall x 54mm thick

Black Ice Xtreme II 240mm 6270 BTU per hour

Black Ice Xtreme III 360mm 9702 BTU per hour
 
Hey guys, since I've been leak testing I've also had my fans running as well just so that the PSU has more of a load on it than just the pump. Anyway, I'm getting a bad vibration throughout the entire case from the rad fans, and I'm not sure which one is causing it because they all have the same vibration since they are all bolted to the same rad. I also noticed that 2 of the fans actually have kind of a clicking noise that goes away if I put slight pressure on the center of the fan(bracing side up).

Is there any way to combat this besides I guess soft-mounting all the fans/rad to the case? Its set up in a pull config with the fans right against the case.

Also, has anyone else had a problem with fan holes lining up with swifty rads? I had to basically squeeze the shroud, I guess it is, of the rad together to get the fans to bolt to the rad. I'm wondering if this is maybe causing the fans to be off-balance.
 
try some 3m doubsided tape..should take away the vibration... thats what i use ..really tuff tape...
 
to add the flow meter just shut the system off and use hose pinch to cut off the fluid it may leak a lil but you wont have to drain everything...make sure the pc is unplugged in case you drop juice on something ... koolance makes quick release fittings i use , they come in handy....With the clicking make sure no wires are touching any fan blades, sometimes when you tighten up the screws you can squeeze the fan to hard..especially if you have fan guards on...
 
devil_trigger said:
Hey guys, since I've been leak testing I've also had my fans running as well just so that the PSU has more of a load on it than just the pump. Anyway, I'm getting a bad vibration throughout the entire case from the rad fans, and I'm not sure which one is causing it because they all have the same vibration since they are all bolted to the same rad. I also noticed that 2 of the fans actually have kind of a clicking noise that goes away if I put slight pressure on the center of the fan(bracing side up).

Is there any way to combat this besides I guess soft-mounting all the fans/rad to the case? Its set up in a pull config with the fans right against the case.

Also, has anyone else had a problem with fan holes lining up with swifty rads? I had to basically squeeze the shroud, I guess it is, of the rad together to get the fans to bolt to the rad. I'm wondering if this is maybe causing the fans to be off-balance.
Click to expand...

Im not sure what type of fans your using, but bearing sleeve fans mounted in a horrizontal position are notorious for that clicking sound you descripe. I used to have some Nexus quiet fans that would do the same thing. A ball bearing fan can operate in the horizontal position no problem.

For my top radiator, I silicon mounted the fans between the case with silicon washers that came with my Antec P180 case. I used 4mm hex head screws from the top of my case that go through the silicon washer then into the radiator. Also since they are 4mm, there is play between the screws and the fan hole sides, so wasnt hard to line up.
 
SDNYC09 said:
to add the flow meter just shut the system off and use hose pinch to cut off the fluid it may leak a lil but you wont have to drain everything...make sure the pc is unplugged in case you drop juice on something ... koolance makes quick release fittings i use , they come in handy....With the clicking make sure no wires are touching any fan blades, sometimes when you tighten up the screws you can squeeze the fan to hard..especially if you have fan guards on...
Click to expand...

Ok cool, I'll look into getting something like a hose pinch for when I add the flow meter. And no there are no wires touching the blades at all. I tried loosening some screws and tightening and if it stopped 1 from making a noise another 1 started lol.

semiconductorslave said:
Im not sure what type of fans your using, but bearing sleeve fans mounted in a horrizontal position are notorious for that clicking sound you descripe. I used to have some Nexus quiet fans that would do the same thing. A ball bearing fan can operate in the horizontal position no problem.

For my top radiator, I silicon mounted the fans between the case with silicon washers that came with my Antec P180 case. I used 4mm hex head screws from the top of my case that go through the silicon washer then into the radiator. Also since they are 4mm, there is play between the screws and the fan hole sides, so wasnt hard to line up.
Click to expand...

I'm using all Coolermaster Sickleflow R1 fans and they are sleeve bearings mounted horizontally.:( Doh! Well I went out and got some vinyl grommets so it will soft mount the fan and the screw, so hopefully that will give me some improvement, I'll post back with the results.
 
Well guys here it is!!! I'm posting this on my new watercooled rig! Don't mind the CPU power wire, I'm waiting on the extension cable and then it will disappear behind the mobo tray. :)

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Cpu cores are between 28-32C idling and my 7970 is chillin at 29C. I am so happy right now and really proud of myself lol. Oh and also, I put all of the sickleflows on a controller and these temps are with the fans at 5v. :) I also soft mounted the rad with the grommets but it didnt really change the noise, but did cut down on the case vibration. With the fans spinning as slowly as they are now I can't hear them at all so overall I'm happy.
 
Very nice job, congrats. One question though, shouldn't the inlet on the CPU block be rotated so that it fills up from the bottom to the top to aid in bleeding?

The only change I would make, and keep in mind you did I great job, this is just constructive suggestion, is I like the look of these over the hardware store hose clamps:

PrimoChill Black Steel Spring Hose Clamps for 3/4in.OD Tubing $0.79 each
http://www.jab-tech.com/

They also have chrome ones, but these are some of the most simple and affordable clamps. It so nice to not need a screw driver when you change things around, just pinch them together.
 
semiconductorslave said:
Very nice job, congrats. One question though, shouldn't the inlet on the CPU block be rotated so that it fills up from the bottom to the top to aid in bleeding?

The only change I would make, and keep in mind you did I great job, this is just constructive suggestion, is I like the look of these over the hardware store hose clamps:

PrimoChill Black Steel Spring Hose Clamps for 3/4in.OD Tubing $0.79 each
http://www.jab-tech.com/

They also have chrome ones, but these are some of the most simple and affordable clamps. It so nice to not need a screw driver when you change things around, just pinch them together.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I actually didn't even think of the CPU block being like that and making it harder to bleed, but it all worked out pretty well, didn't take long to get those bubbles out. The only reason its like that anyway is so that its an easier bend from the vid card to the CPU block

I actually didn't even realize how big the clamps were, I got them from frozenCPU with my order and when I saw them I was like ew, lol. The swifty CPU block came with more "normal" tinier black clamps that look alot nicer, one is on the vid card and the other on the bottom of the res, you probably can't even see them they blend in so well. I will definitely look into replacing those.

SDNYC09 said:
looks good! now most importantly lets get some temps!
Click to expand...

Thanks! I will be working on that lol, I just need to make sure my system is stable. I let it stay on last night and it was locked up today with a lighted black screen with the mouse curser and no response. I hit reset and it went thru a reboot cycle twice before actually loading windows.

I switched windows to high performance mode but is there anything I should be enabling/disabling in the BIOS that could cause a lockup like that?
 
I would look in Computer Managment and open Event Viewer folder and under System and Application see if you see any errors during the AM hours of the night in case it was able to log something before the lock up. How high is your OC on your CPU and your RAM, do you have an OC on your video card? What voltages are you running (have you increased). Do you have any applications that are scheduled to run at night (virus scan, driver updater etc)?

If it locked up during idle and it is due to hardware instability, I would think running the Intel burn in or Prime 95 running with lots of stress on the RAM would also crash it.

Also check if there were any windows updates that ran.
 
I'll have to look into the event viewer and all. There is no OC on anything, bone stock after first boot. It was during idle sometime overnight, nothing scheduled and updates were turned off. I tried running intel burn test but it says theres a compatibility issue or something.
 
I seriously HOPE this is not your problem but...before i water cooled my cosmos box... i was running 2 x 5970s (HIS) ...i bought 2 ek blocks and water cooled my system... to my surprise i thought it might have been heat or bad drivers but both my 5970's had cold bug... it would just not run water cooled...they wouldnt rma the cards because i took off the stock cooling...i bought 2 asus 5970's and used the same blocks...never had a problem again...after i just sold my 5970, i bought these 7970's and was very worried id have that problem again thank god it worked out ok...im not saying that is your problem but if you have enough hose take out your card and try another card...eliminate each part...could just be bad ram...try each piece alone...
 
Well I loaded up BF3 and I played thru the first level but now its crashing at the start of the second level when you get out of the APV I guess it is, every time. I don't know if thats a driver issue or not though, I'm running off the drivers from the disc that came with the card since there arent any new drivers for 32-bit windows that I know of.

Trying to run intel burn test I cant use more than 2 gigs of RAM since I'm on a 32-bit OS, and after I say ok to that it fails because of saying "missing executables, unstable system, or a software bug."
 
i like your setup. I dont think you are missing anything. Just a monitor if you haven't got a nice one. maybe 23 inch.
 
SDNYC09 said:
hummm i was just thinking... did you buy the copper shim with that ek block? some 7970's MUST have the copper shim to make up the space for the gpu

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...eme_HF_HD7970_Cu_Adapter.html?tl=g30c309s1590


im using it...it shoudl really all come in the same box why would they sell it seperate


could be over heating...run msi afterburner while playing with OSD or temp and gpu useage
Click to expand...
I'm running furmark and prime95(I know not the best but it runs on my system) right now and my GPU is at around 41C and my highest core on the CPU is 49C. I didn't see that shim on the site but I did take the block off after installing and it was making good contact, paste was spread out nicely.

EDIT: According to GPU-Z I'm running driver version 8.921 and the latest catalyst is 12.2 and there is a 32-bit version, I guess I'll try those and see whats up. Also, I didn't see anything in the event viewer about any problems.
cheenou77 said:
i like your setup. I dont think you are missing anything. Just a monitor if you haven't got a nice one. maybe 23 inch.
Click to expand...
I've got a Dell 24" monitor already. :)




Second Edit: Everytime and every way I try to uninstall my gfx drivers it crashes to a blue screen with the physical memory dump and saying it shut off my computer to avoid harm....
 
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devil_trigger said:
Second Edit: Everytime and every way I try to uninstall my gfx drivers it crashes to a blue screen with the physical memory dump and saying it shut off my computer to avoid harm....
Click to expand...

http://www.guru3d.com/category/driversweeper/

Go to Device Manager and right click on your video card and select Uninstall. Then reboot and run the drive sweeper. My trick is to make a shortcut on the desktop to drivesweeper and also to your video card drivers so that when your PC reboots and everything is large due to the low resolution, you can still click the shortcuts easily before windows loads a default driver.
 
I even tried doing that and got the same blue screen, so after some other suggestions I booted into safe mode and that finally worked. I installed the new drivers and the game still crashes, disabled my RAM limit lift, still crashes, and tried lowering settings in game but same thing. I'm reinstalling now to see if that will help.
 
Do you have another video card to try to see if that is the problem? My friend has a 6950 and for some reason his BF3 crashes all the time. I have the same brand 6970 and BF3 runs stable on my rig. He runs a 32 bit OS also, don't know if that would have anything to do with it.
Maybe if you were already thinking of buying a windows 7 OEM 64bit, you should pull the trigger on it now, and then try with the 64 bit drivers.

I cant believe your running 32 bit windows with 16GB of RAM:D

Once you get your issue sorted out, you should create a ram drive since you have so much extra, and try running some stuff off of that.
 
Hey guys, I was just glancing at HWmonitor and noticed my voltages are off a smidge, would this mean my PSU is going bad?

system2.jpg


The voltages don't move under full CPU load, and I had Furmark and Prime95 running for a couple hours earlier with no hiccups at all. I don't know how that could cause a game to crash when the stress testing tools run fine. Furmark had the card pulling about 120 watts for a couple hours and was fine.
 
IF your 12v was actually THAT far off I think you'd be seeing some major problems.
 
Lulz, now its reading 1.39v on the 12v rail... I'm gonna go check the bios readings.

Also, tried reinstalling BF3 and same issue, I'm hoping its just 32bit thats holding me back, although it ran fine on my c2d rig on this 32bit OS.

EDIT: well the only reading I could find in the bios was the +12v, and it was like 12.03 or something, so its all good. Does anyone know of a better hardware monitoring program?

Also, while I was in the bios I realized both my SATA devices(HDD and Optical) are running in IDE mode, which this mobo has no IDE ports. Is this hurting my read/write speeds and how would I go about fixing this?

Looks like I found my overnight crash issue:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1671423
Exact same thing that happened to me, tried bringing monitor back from sleep and got a black screen with visible mouse.

Man, wish I could change my title to something like "finished first watercooling, now troubleshoot issue after issue."
 
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devil_trigger said:
Hey guys, I was just glancing at HWmonitor and noticed my voltages are off a smidge, would this mean my PSU is going bad?

system2.jpg


The voltages don't move under full CPU load, and I had Furmark and Prime95 running for a couple hours earlier with no hiccups at all. I don't know how that could cause a game to crash when the stress testing tools run fine. Furmark had the card pulling about 120 watts for a couple hours and was fine.
Click to expand...

Those voltages are weird, when I run HWMonitor, my voltages report correctly. I wonder if it could be you PSU, or maybe your MB reporting them wrong? I wonder how many watts your using, have you ever done an online PSU calculator? Thermaltake has one:

www.thermaltake.outervision.com/



Do you have a nother PSU you can try? Better yet, unplug everything except your main items and see what happens.
 
devil_trigger said:
Also, while I was in the bios I realized both my SATA devices(HDD and Optical) are running in IDE mode, which this mobo has no IDE ports. Is this hurting my read/write speeds and how would I go about fixing this?
Click to expand...

You can run your SATA drives as AHCI mode, and then they become hot swap-able, and also can report back to HD monitoring apps that use SMART, but I think its only supported in 64bit OSs.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Host_Controller_Interface

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S.M.A.R.T.
 
Yeah I remember with the old computer HWmonitor always displayed the correct voltages, its just being wacky with this build. In the bios my +12v was indeed above 12v, so I guess HWmonitor is being weird on this system for some reason. I'm going to look around for other programs and try those.

I even tried uninstalling/reintalling and it made no difference, theres no way my +12v is 1.34v.:rolleyes: Like I said, the BIOS was reporting above 12v so HWmonitor is being werid.
 
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just a suggestion, start origin...right click battlefield..repair install...make sure the games files are correct... as for the power readings that is weird...update ur bios...:confused:
 
SDNYC09 said:
just a suggestion, start origin...right click battlefield..repair install...make sure the games files are correct... as for the power readings that is weird...update ur bios...:confused:
Click to expand...

Alright I will try that next. My BIOS was reading voltages correctly though so I don't know what an update would do, I guess its just HWmonitor not reading correctly on this system.

Nope, repair said the game was fine, no missing or corrupt files. I have a copy of 64bit win7pro on the way so I guess I'll find out then.
 
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Software readings are not really reliable. You need a DMM to accurately measure voltages.
 
Tsumi said:
Software readings are not really reliable. You need a DMM to accurately measure voltages.
Click to expand...

I haven't had a problem with them until now, but oh well I guess.:p

EDIT: Well after a fresh install of win7 pro 64bit I'm all good to go. At first I instantly OCed my video card to max CCC sliders which was OK before and it was crashing instantly. I returned to stock and now I'm playing BF3 fine. I guess I'll have to tweak my voltages a bit.
 
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