Liquid Cooling Problems

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Endrithius

Limp Gawd
Joined
Aug 7, 2006
Messages
180
Alrighty - so I finally switched over the colling unit listed in my sig from my old empty case to my new one (Mystique 632). It all works - and I got all the air bubbles out except for the REEEEALLY tiny ones. I am sure it will take them a while to actually work their way out of th system. I hooked the whole system up to a PSU and ran it for about 30 minutes with everything else off. So, having that said - this brings me to my 2 questions.

1. What is the most effective way to get rid of those little air bubbles?

2. I am using the Tt Green Cooling Liquid - which I was under the impression that it was non-conductive - but apparently during the filling of the system (which is a real **** by the way due to the pain in the A$$ resevoir) I got a few drops in the case. I wiped everything off and I thought I got everything, but unfortunately I missed a drop or 2 that fell directly on the SATA power connector on my Maxtor SATA drive. It doesn't even spin up anymore. I blew out all the water, I THOUGHT I had it dry but it still doesn't spin up. I am going to try it again in the morning after it has had some time to dry, but I was just wondering if everyone thinks its totally dead and it's time for RMA or if there is a way to save it. I wouldn't care except, Windows + customization + WoW + Steam (HL2 - DoD - CS:S) + Prey + Battlefield 2 w/expansion + Doom3 generally takes me about 5 hours to set up. I would LOVE to avoid this work.

Let me know guys
 
I think ur done man.. RMA time lol.. I dont trust those non- conductive water.. i tried FluidXP i got shit load of water on my video card and mobo. IT WORKED and all like it says it would but once i dried everything out, took out my video card to check for any more water, i found out the golden tips were burnt, gave me such a headache couldnt update to newest video driver, cant flash my bios, basically had to RMA thank good ness they accepted. if u were to RMA just tell them its defective.
 
LOL - well - at least its a BRAND NEW drive /cry - oh well - at least i have 3 more that WERE in the raid lol. Ill just reinstall on the 3 drives in RAID 0 and then when the new 4th comes back in - ill just push it to the RAID.
 
I do not believe the Tt stuff is non-conductive.

A general rule of thumb is that you want to run a leak test for at least 12 to 24 hours, 30 minutes just is not long enough. I have had leaks that did not appear until a couple hours into the leak test.

If you do find a leak, clean everything up, use a can of compressed air if it got into any slots or crooks. Then let everything sit out for at least 24 hours to ensure that it completely air dries. If you do this then even if you have a leak you shouldn't lose any hardware.

Unfortunately you didn't leak test long enough, and when you cleaned up the water that dripped you most certainly didn't wait long enough for everything to actually dry. The drive is probably dead, hopefully this will teach you to take proper precautions in the future...and maybe to back up your data ;) In the end a harddrive is one of the cheaper things to replace aside from the data on it.
 
I usually overlook easy solutions in favor of doing things the most difficult way possible, but did you try cleaning all of the contacts with alcohol? I have a first-gen BigWater in my second box and before I switched to Swiftech HydrX I was using the Tt fluid. I found that it tended to leave a smidge of film on whatever surface it was in contact with when it dried. Perhaps one or more of your contacts is coated and not passing current. It's worth a shot.

BTW those small little bubbles will get rid of themselves when they break their grip on the hose wall and work back into the res.
 
Well, good news, I got home at about 10 am this morning - turned it on and let the system run (was trying to get rid of the little air bubbles) no leaks - and the water in the system was because i spilt some in not not because of leaks. Anywho - the hdd works now!!!!1oneoneoneoneleventytilde'exclamationmark - Everything dried out and all is well in the land of me again. The ambient temp of my house ( I live in Phoenix AZ mind you ) is in the 72 - 75 range. Under no load after 45 minutes of running, the system is running at 27C and uner load its at 34-36C - remember that this is with an OC from 3.0 GHz to 3.75 GHz. I am happy :) Now I need to get my 7900GS cooled - it will raise the over all temps of the whole system - but as long as it stays under 50C under load I am okay.
 
FYI I found that the Aquarius VGA block worked pretty well in my system, and I had the nickel-plated version. For a 1/4" block it kept my 6600GT at decent temps.
 
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