Logitech mice are great except for one thing

[ballpoint]

I have been using high end Logitech wireless mice for years, and I'm noticing a pattern. After about 2-3 years, the mouse starts issuing false double-clicks, or letting go when I'm drag-and-dropping. It's now happening with my G700, after it happened with my G7 and one other mouse. It's really irritating to have your workflow impeded by not being able to mouse properly. Why does this happen? What should I replace my G700 with? I might just buy another G700 if they're still available, despite the degradation.I use the mice so much I can hardly blame them for breaking down.

 

[sharknice]

I have been using high end Logitech wireless mice for years, and I'm noticing a pattern. After about 2-3 years, the mouse starts issuing false double-clicks, or letting go when I'm drag-and-dropping. It's now happening with my G700, after it happened with my G7 and one other mouse. It's really irritating to have your workflow impeded by not being able to mouse properly. Why does this happen? What should I replace my G700 with? I might just buy another G700 if they're still available, despite the degradation.I use the mice so much I can hardly blame them for breaking down.

Call Logitech up, they'll probably send you a new mouse. That's what I did when it happened to my G7. They sent me a new one free of charge and I didn't have to send back the broken one.
I don't think this problem is actually limited to Logitech mice. I have heard it happening on Razer and other brands as well. I haven't had any problems with my G700 yet and I've had it since they came out.
With the G7 it happened because a little metal curved part would get flattened. You could actually fix it if you opened up the mouse and bent it back to how it was supposed to be with a screw driver. It is probably the same thing for the other mice.

 

[ballpoint]

Yeah good call I will contact them for a replacment. I've actually done it before, just forgot how easy it is to RMA or get an easy replacement with them. I've had a couple diNovo keyboards replaced after the space bar went bad. I really think Logitech are a great company with some of the best products if you stick with their higher end stuff.

 

[sylon]

This is the main reason I've replaced all my mice of every brand.

My first logi was one of the fastest to die, I had a low-end model though, m500, and I wasn't aware of the return policies etc (this was also probably 3-5 years back too so Idk if they were as good at the time?). After that I avoided them, I got a razer which did the same thing after a year or two of use. Had a TT after that which was just awful ergonomics and I'm back to logi with G9x, hoping for a longer life span, but I put a lot of hours on them so maybe it's just unavoidable.

 

[Dan_D]

I'm happy to get a couple of years use out of a mouse. I don't really expect more than that.

 

[johnnydoe]

I have been using high end Logitech wireless mice for years, and I'm noticing a pattern. After about 2-3 years, the mouse starts issuing false double-clicks

The infamous double click of death is a fault of the Omron D2FC-F-7N switch, it's not tied to Logitech mice. It's been used on many mice, such as the Habu, Imperator or the MX518.

I'm happy to get a couple of years use out of a mouse. I don't really expect more than that.

Depends entirely on the mouse itself. I know of MX518's that've gotten through hell and still kept on going after 5 years. Some Intellimice keep their functionality for even longer. On the other hand, if we were to talk about some shitty A4, that would have be an entirely different story...

 

[cpate]

Microswitches have an average physical and electrical life. After a certain point in time, the switch starts to register multiple clicks because of a phenomenon known as "bounce" - where the mechanical components inside the switch rapidly engage, disengage, and re-engage on a "microscopic" level. This happens more frequently as time passes because the internal switch parts get more malleable due to the repeated stress of normal usage, but some people experience it more quickly because the angle, force, and rapidity with which they click is more stressful to the switch than others. Humidity or other environmental factors can play a role as well. This is why you get cases where some individuals experience it on multiple mice within months of purchase, and some people can use the same mouse for years with no issue.

Mouse manufacturers can (and need to, really) accommodate some level of bounce by using debouncing algorithms in the firmware (the most straightforward of which is, effectively, not allowing the system to process multiple clicks within a set, small timeframe) but these fail over time as well - as the physical structure of the switch continues to degrade. Additionally, you don't want to set your debouncing time to be too long otherwise you'll get to a point where the forced delay is perceptible to the user.

 

[Dan_D]

The infamous double click of death is a fault of the Omron D2FC-F-7N switch, it's not tied to Logitech mice. It's been used on many mice, such as the Habu, Imperator or the MX518.



Depends entirely on the mouse itself. I know of MX518's that've gotten through hell and still kept on going after 5 years. Some Intellimice keep their functionality for even longer. On the other hand, if we were to talk about some shitty A4, that would have be an entirely different story...

I use my computer more than most. By the time 2 years rolls around my mice are pretty wornout in some areas.

 

[Tyler-Durden]

Of all the mice I've used on my home PCs, the one that's lasted the longest is my Razer Diamondback Blue Plasma. Bought it in 2006, still going strong.

 

[faugusztin]

Of all the mice I've used on my home PCs, the one that's lasted the longest is my Razer Diamondback Blue Plasma. Bought it in 2006, still going strong.

In meantime, i had three Razer DeathAdders, all doing doubleclicks after 2-3 years. But what can i do if it fits my hand best .

 

[Zepher]

you can fix the issue by taking the mouse apart and cleaning/re-bending the lever spring.
it's just a pain if you pop the lever spring off since it is so small and needs to be put together with the spring part of the lever in the correct tension position, otherwise it won't click.

All of my main mice have done this, I just use the mice so much.
Logitech will RMA it painlessly and quickly, and rarely do you have to send the defective mouse back, most times you just keep the old one.
Out of the 10 mice I have RMA'd, I only had to send in the Performance MX.

And I just recently RMA'd my G700. I was still using the defective one since it didn't do the issue all the time, usually when I didn't want it to do it, it would.
New one arrived and I took the old one apart and fixed it and went ahead and fixed my MX1000 that I use on my HTPC.

 

[GreenMonkey]

I've been using my MX510 since 2004/2005 or so. It's been my work mouse (so at least 40 hours a week of use) since 2007 or so.

I am also still using my original MX1000 mouse at home - I've been using that since 2005 or so. I tried an MX1100 for a while but went back to the MX1000. I did replace the feet though for $5 or so (slicksurf).

 

[ZodaEX]

The most reliable mouse i've ever used - and i've used a shitload of mice, is the Logitech MX300.

 

[dogbert_2001]

I want to buy a bag of like 300 Omron springs. The springs are easy to replace. I don't want to solder the whole switch.

 

[Magix]

I only have good things to say about the mx518 as well. Have had it for a long time now, still works fine. Only complaint I could have is that the three black 'feet' are kind of roughed up around the edges - probably because I used to use a plastic mousepad and I would occasionally sorta scratch the edge of it because it was quite small. Converting over to a cloth pad it was an issue, but it seems to be gone now.. I can only assume the cloth pad effectively 'sanded out' those rough edges. I can only hope it didn't damage the pad itself =D

This is in contrast to the 2-3 Razer Diamondbacks that I had, all of which broke within a year (just lights out, reinserting wire fixed it temporarily for a while but not long)