Masterkleer or Tygon

N

n00btard

Gawd
Joined
Dec 10, 2005
Messages
922
Watercooling parts for small-bore tubing is expensive as hell =P

So... will MCT-5 f*** up Masterkleer tubing (as in, leave weird residue in the tubing wall or stain it), or should I go with the laboratory-grade Tygon? In the event that neither tubing will be affected by MCT-5, which one would you recommend, and why? (Any other tubing suggestions?
 
Get Tygon if you feel like spending the extra cash. It is, in my opinion, the best tubing on the market. Bar none.

If not, get Masterkleer.
 
Anything I should look out for with 7/16" tubing? Pressure on components from torsion from the tubing? Bitch to route? Eh?
 
n00btard said:
Anything I should look out for with 7/16" tubing? Pressure on components from torsion from the tubing? Bitch to route? Eh?
Click to expand...

I use Masterkleer 7/16" with MCT-40. Looks good, works well. It is really difficult to get the tubing over some fittings. The D5 1/2" fittings are the worst. They're HUGE...
 
It might be hardest to get the 7/16" Masterkleer onto the D4/D5 pumps, but it's hardest to get it off barbed fittings with lots of barbs on them. Getting it off my brass barbs is ridiculously difficult.
 
mmkay, I'm not using a D5. I'm using an AquaXtreme 50Z DC pump with an AquaXtreme MP-05 SP LE block and an EK NF4 block along with a Innovatek CoolMatic G70 (1/2" Danger Den fitting on the G1/4 threads) for my cooling needs. Not sure if the AquaXtreme pump has the same barb issue as the D5, not sure if MCT-5 will shit in my blocks and f*** up the holes in the accelerator plate in the MP-05. Especially with the whole galvanic corrosion thing that might arise with the usage of 2 copper blocks and an aluminum (CoolMatic) block. Unless MCT-5 prevents galvanic corrosion.
 
Why even bother with that coolant if you're so concerned about it causing problems? Antifreeze is cheap and works great.
 
My goodiness get the tygon already. People who post using Masterkleer always has problems (I read these problems in several forums). The problems I read about most on Masterkleer are:
-kinks at bends. they have to use zip ties to make the tube oval again
-tube flating out again having to use zip ties or clamps to make it oval again
-problem getting it to fit over barbs once they change WB or change Barb setup

Most who buy tubing and, who plan on keeping everthing inside their case only need 5' of tubing. If you cannot afford 5' of tubing you should still be saving your money not buying cheap tubing that gives you these problems that I have seen posted:
OVER
OVER
OVER
OVER
OVER
AGAIN
and
AGAIN
and AGAIN


:mad:

Edit Let me correct myself
The OD of your tubing is very important. The thicker the OD the more resistant to kinking the tubing will be. For 1/2", 7/16", and 3/8" ID tubing the desired thickness is a 1/8" wall.

1/2" Id tubing should have an OD of 3/4"
7/16" ID tubing should have an OD of 11/16"
3/8" ID tubing should have an OD of 5/8"
http://www.ocforums.com/archive/index.php/t-375205.html
 
Where? I haven't seen anything about MasterKleer around here except recommendations for it. I bought Tygon a long time ago and found it to be so kink-happy I bought MasterKleer 1/2" to replace it.

Edit: BTW 7/16" MasterKleer is very hard to kink or flatten IME
 
thewhiteguy said:
Why even bother with that coolant if you're so concerned about it causing problems? Antifreeze is cheap and works great.
Click to expand...

because I can buy it on my way home from school, as opposed to Antifreeze where I'd have to make a 20min. detour before walking another 30min back home.
 
Eastcoasthandle said:
My goodiness get the tygon already. People who post using Masterkleer always has problems (I read these problems in several forums). The problems I read about most on Masterkleer are:
-kinks at bends. they have to use zip ties to make the tube oval again
-tube flating out again having to use zip ties or clamps to make it oval again
-problem getting it to fit over barbs once they change WB or change Barb setup

Most who buy tubing and, who plan on keeping everthing inside their case only need 5' of tubing. If you cannot afford 5' of tubing you should still be saving your money not buying cheap tubing that gives you these problems that I have seen posted:
OVER
OVER
OVER
OVER
OVER
AGAIN
and
AGAIN
and AGAIN


:mad:
Click to expand...

hmm, I use cheap tubing, about 10 foot cost me less than 4 dollars, it has 1/8 inch sidewall, so its a pain to bend, (You need to use good worm drive fittings for it 3/4 od). Btw, it works pretty good, and it is almost impossible to kink (its almost impossible to bend though as well), it will probably change colors, but so does tygon (I had some, changed it out). One more thing I used 7 1/2 foot of tubing yesterday, so 10 foot is a good number, especially a just in case mistake and I have everything in my case. If you want pics I'll even show.

btw I change my tubbing in my water cooling setup once a year anyways, and change the liquid every 6 months.

my vote for masterkeer
 
thewhiteguy said:
It might be hardest to get the 7/16" Masterkleer onto the D4/D5 pumps, but it's hardest to get it off barbed fittings with lots of barbs on them. Getting it off my brass barbs is ridiculously difficult.
Click to expand...

getting them on, heat them up, if your going to change the tubing anyways, take a knife and put a small slit (doesn't even have to go all the way through) and take it off ;)
 
EastCoasthandle, try buying some masterkleer to play with. You'll be impressed.

I've never seen anyone have problems with it. It's about 1/4 the price of Tygon. It doesn't kink easily.

What makes you so sure of this? Have you tried it?
 
The purpose of this guide is to outline some basic characteristics of commonly used tubing for PC watercooling, and some pros and cons related to each type of tubing. This is not intended to be a defacto guide to all types of tubing, or a breakdown of the actual specifications for each tubing (although links to spec sheets are provided where available), but as a general means help you choose tubing that may be best suited to your needs.

Information contained is from personal experience, other forum member's experiences, and actual specifications of tubing.

Tubing Measurement

Tubing is measured in an ID (inner diameter) and an OD (outer diamter). The two most common ID's used in the US are 1/2" and 3/8". In Europe and elsewhere, a 1/4" ID is common.

There is also a growing number of people starting to use 7/16" ID tubing. The big differences between the usual 1/2" and 3/8" are flow rate, pressure drop, and bend radius. The 7/16" tubing seeks to achieve a happy medium between the two. It used with 1/2" fittings, and is stretched over the fittings. It is supposed to provide a lower pressure drop in smaller loops, while achieving good flow, and a better bend radius.

The OD of your tubing is very important. The thicker the OD the more resistant to kinking the tubing will be. For 1/2", 7/16", and 3/8" ID tubing the desired thickness is a 1/8" wall.

1/2" Id tubing should have an OD of 3/4"
7/16" ID tubing should have an OD of 11/16"
3/8" ID tubing should have an OD of 5/8"

Types of commonly used tubing

A Quick Note on staining/buildup.

While High grade tubing such as Tygon, or Clearflex60 tends to resist staining and buildup, a coolant mixture that features additives that can produce substrates (such as Highlighter ink, or some algaecides) may eventually collect and stain the tubing. Particulates that result from corrosion will in particular cloud the tubing. Keeping your tubes clean and clear is as much about your coolant mixtures and loop maintenance as it is about the type of tubing you use.

3/8 - 1/2 INCH ID tubing
Tygon R-3606.

The Rolls Royce of tubing. Bends easily, and greatly resists kinking. Non reactive, non corrosive, tends to resist staining, and greatly resists any buildup on the inner walls. Costly, 2 to 3 times more expensive than other tubing.

Spec sheet (http://www.tygon.com/media/documents/S0000000000000001013/tygr3603.pdf)

Pros:
1/8” walled tubing very resistant to kinking
Crystal clear
Non reactive
Less permeable than rubber based tubing
Crack resistant
Tends to resist staining

Cons:
PRICE

Tygon R-3400.

Tygon R-3400 is a black UV, chemical and weathering resistant tubing. Stiffer than the R-3603 tubing, but provides more chemical resistance. Slightly more expensive than R-3603. Not A very common Tubing, but has recently shown some interest among forum members.

Pros:
1/8” walled tubing extremely resistant to kinking
Non reactive
Less permeable than rubber based tubing
Exremely Crack resistant
Tends to resist staining

Cons:
PRICE
Unable to see through or into tubing.

Clearflex 60

A popular alternative to Tygon. Crystal clear, non-oxidizing, resistant to buildup. Bends easily, resists kinking.

Spec sheet (http://www.flextubing.com/TechRef.asp)

Check spec sheet for chemical reactions.

Pros:
1/8” walled tubing very resistant kinking.
Crystal clear.
Non reactive to many common chemicals.
Price.

Cons:
May react with some chemicals.
Can stain.

MasterKleer

Extremely clear (as the name implies, on par with Tygon, more clear than Clearflex). A stiffer tubing, but still bends well, resistant to kinking except in tight bends. Resistant to buildup.

Spec sheet at McMaster (http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplC...43845412932&ScreenWidth=1280&McMMainWidth=891)

Pros:
Price
Extremely clear (good looking)
Non reactive to most chemicals
Decently resistant to kinking.

Cons:
A bit stiff.
May react with some chemicals.
Can stain.
PrimoFlex

A popular silicone based tubing that is UV reactive. Resists kinking well, and bends easily. It is porous, so coolant loss due to evaporation through the tubing will happen over time. Available in green, blue, and clear (which glows a blueish-pruple)

NOTE: The UV glow of the tubing tends to be less than that of the glow produced by coolant additives. UV additives may actually reduce the over all “glow”

Unable to locate a Spec Sheet.

Pros:
1/8” walled tubing is extremely resistant to kinking
Very pliable and easily routed.
Price
Color choices

Cons:
Not as clear as other tubing.
Not very resistant to build up on inner walls.
May react with certain chemicals.
Somewhat porous, coolant vapor will leak through over time.

Vinyl

A common tubing that can be found at many hardware stores. It is very stiff, but resists crimping very well, although very easy to kink if bent sharply. Readily available, easy to find, and inexpensive. Usually you can find it in two varieties. A somewhat clear variety, that is fairly stiff, and a reinforced variety that is grey with a white crisscross belting. The reinforced form is extremely stiff, and does not bend particularly well, but is extremely difficult to kink. Worm drive hose clamps are essential with vinyl tubing.

There are many manufactures of Vinyl tubing.
This Spec sheet (http://www.omega.com/Green/pdf/tyvy.pdf) is just an example of one.

Pros:
Very cheap
Very easy to find.
The clear variety is relatively clear.

Cons:
Very stiff (especially the reinforced variety)
May harden and possibly crack over time.
May react with certain chemicals.
Not very resistant to buildup.
Kinks pretty easily

1/4 INCH ID tubing

I am currently researching for more commonly used 1/4" ID tubing.

Tygon R-3606.

See above.

Createc PUR

A polyether compound tubing manufactured in Germany. A common type tubing for European 1/4" ID systems. The clear variety is fairly clear. It is also available in UV reactive colors.

There is also a Polyester compound variant, it has a yellow tint to it.

PROS:

Small diameter tubing it easier to route, and resists kinking.
Durable
Variety of colors available
Checmical resistant

CONS:
May react to some chemicals
Availability outside Europe.

Vinyl

See above.
NOTE: 1/4" Vinyl PVC tubing kinks VERY easily.


Hose Clamps.

Do you need clamps? Some setups may not need hose clamps to keep conenctiosn from leaking under normal operating conditions. These are usually systems using undersized tubing (Such as a 7/16" ID tubing running on 1/2" ID Barbs), or on overly large, multipel pronged barbs.

However, Using hose clamps is HIGHLY recommended. There are a variety of clamps that can be used, the most common type is the Worm Drive Clamp. These are metal clamps that feature a screw along the outside, which is turned to tighten or loosen the clamp. The upside of this type of clamp is it is extremely durable, and can be tightened down to ensure a completely leak free connection, no matter how much pulling or tugging you do. Complaints about these types of clamps are usually due to their lack of aesthetics, and the diffculty in tightening them in hard to reach spots.

Another common type of clamp are either plastic or metal "Snap" clamps. These are tightened by pinching the tops together so that the two sides "lock". These are generally not as durable (especially the plastic ones) as worm drive clamps, and do not provide the same level of leak protection a worm drive clamp can, they are however easier on the eyes, and generally thought to be easier to work with.

Pinch clamps can also be used, but I haven't seen many instances where people have used them. These are metal clamps (usually) that act like a spring. Pinching the top results in the clamps opening up so it can be moved into position, then the clamp is allowed to rest freely on the tube as its will naturally impart pressure on the tubing. These generally do not seal nearly as well as "Snap" clamps, or worm drive clamps, but are extremely easy to work with.

The "Ghetto" hose clamp. More often than not the "Ghetto" alternative to hose clamps is the Zip tie. They can provide great leak protection if tightened far enough, are easy on the eyes, and most importantly cheap. However removal can be issue, generally requiring the tubing be cut as well as the zip tie.

Bending those tubes.

The whole reason we use flexible tubing is so we can bend the tubbing into curves to fit everything together. Ideally we want the shortest distance possible between components, along with the most flow possible. Tubing that bends easier, yet remains resistant to to kinking will provide the cleanest bends, and won't collapse on itself as it bends.

The tighter your bends are going to be, the more flexible you will want you tubing (but still maintain the ability to not kink or collapse). Keep in mind, overly radical bends on too stiff of tubing may partially collapse the tubing and reduce flow.

Working with Tight bends, or stretching the tubing over oversized barbs/pipes

Sometimes, no matter how soft and flexible the tubing is, it just wont fit over the barbs, or bend as sharp as you would like. The solution to this is generally to heat the tubing up. This can generally be accomplished by soaking the tubing in VERY hot water, or using a heat source such as a blow dryer.

Soaking the tubing is the method with the least amount of potential to harm the tubing. Although it may harm you when you handle it. Wearing gloves of some kind, or even an oven mitt may be desirable when working with tubing in this manner especially if boiling water is used.

If the entire length of tubing is soaked it should become much more pliable (material dependant) and will be easier to bend and or stretch. Once the tubing cools down it will hold its new shape. Soaking an entire piece is a great way to force really tight bends.

Soaking the ends in boiling water can greatly aid in slipping the tubing over the ends of oversized barbs, or pipes on a heater core or radiator.

The hairdryer/heat source method is good for localized work, although the potential to burn the tubing exists. If you are using this method be careful to keep the heat source far enough away as to not over heat the tubing, and do not apply the heat for too long, or else the tubing may become damaged.
Click to expand...
Original link
Tygon
clearflex
MasterKleer
It appears that as long as the OD is 1/8" thick kinking should not be a problem
 
Still in light of all this, I have not experienced any kinking with Tygon at all.
MasterKleer's website will show you the bend radius for the tubing before kinking.
And appears that they use Tygon in their cats as well.
 
Eastcoasthandle said:
MasterKleer's website will show you the diameter for thier tubing before kinking.
And appears that they use Tygon in their cats as well.
Click to expand...
English?
 
thewhiteguy said:
English?
Click to expand...
bend radius is what I am trying to say here...

Bend Radius is a measurement of plastic and rubber tubing flexibility. It indicates the minimum radius you can bend the tubing without damaging it or shortening its life. The smaller the measurement, the greater the flexibility.
Bend Radius 1/8" (.125")
Bend Radius 7/16" (.4375")
Bend Radius 3/8" (.375")
Bend Radius 1/2" (.5")
Click to expand...
 
Eastcoasthandle said:
My goodiness get the tygon already. People who post using Masterkleer always has problems (I read these problems in several forums). The problems I read about most on Masterkleer are:
-kinks at bends. they have to use zip ties to make the tube oval again
-tube flating out again having to use zip ties or clamps to make it oval again
-problem getting it to fit over barbs once they change WB or change Barb setup

Most who buy tubing and, who plan on keeping everthing inside their case only need 5' of tubing. If you cannot afford 5' of tubing you should still be saving your money not buying cheap tubing that gives you these problems that I have seen posted:
OVER
OVER
OVER
OVER
OVER
AGAIN
and
AGAIN
and AGAIN


:mad:

Edit Let me correct myself
The OD of your tubing is very important. The thicker the OD the more resistant to kinking the tubing will be. For 1/2", 7/16", and 3/8" ID tubing the desired thickness is a 1/8" wall.

1/2" Id tubing should have an OD of 3/4"
7/16" ID tubing should have an OD of 11/16"
3/8" ID tubing should have an OD of 5/8"
http://www.ocforums.com/archive/index.php/t-375205.html
Click to expand...


ive used the masterkleer...it was actually perfect, it didnt kink at all, it kept its shape, it didnt flatten out and it had no issues going over barbs. it was perfect for me. dont rely on what other people say, its good to get first hand.
 
I've been touting it since way before anyone was really using it...during the tygon vs clearflex days. Not many people knew about it then. Now it's being recommended everywhere... :D

I'm using 7/16" masterkleer. it works great. no problems at all. and with Purogene mixed with my distilled water no bacteria/algae problems. Tubing stays crystal.

I've used Tygon, Clearflex, cheap PVC. Masterkleer has the best for price/perf.
$.37/ft - hard to beat.

:cool:
 
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