MSI P6N SLI-FI / Platinum (650i) Thread

DrFreeze said:
anyone?
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Sorry, never ran SLi before and don't really intend to in the future, ao I haven't a clue as to what could be causing the problem that you're having, but it does sound like a software issue to me. Quilk question, did you reload your OS for this build, or did you just clean out the drivers from your old build and reload the new drivers for this build?????
 
i attempted to re-use my old XP install, but it quickly (after a few reboot cycles) dawned on me a reinstall might just be easier, so im on a freshly loaded XP install

im kind of confused, i might just test both my cards individually to see if anything is wrong, but the nvidia driver panel detects them both, and even allows me to enable SLI

im planning to ditch SLI as well, and i dont plan on returning any time soon (nor will i try crossfire anytime soon in my main rig), but this setup should preferably last me another month or so till i get a 8800, and i would like to sell my 6800GTs in working order :D



EDIT: Spanki, the kingston hyperX ram you have in the OP is working (KHX6400D2LLK2/2G) i have these in my rig right now, if you want ill test them at 800 mhz as well before you list them as confirmed
 
Has anyone had the problem when OCing that the computer will run Orthos for 5 hours on small ffts, but when you restart, it won't post? Or requires you to hit reset after the restart? Any clues as to what might cause this? It only happens on the high OCs FSB1600+, and it is intermittent.
 
troutinator said:
Has anyone had the problem when OCing that the computer will run Orthos for 5 hours on small ffts, but when you restart, it won't post? Or requires you to hit reset after the restart? Any clues as to what might cause this? It only happens on the high OCs FSB1600+, and it is intermittent.
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It seems that you're right on the edge of a stable OC, another bump in vcore should fix it, you might try the VTT setting if you're already running a fairly high vcore.

I had that happen when I was going for 3.41 that on the CPU data base. Orthos ran for about 4 hours and then the system crashed. The vcore was at 1.4 or something like that, it took up to 1.47 to get the system fully stable inorder to get the OC listed in the top spot in the data base. To make a long story short, you need more vcore to make the system stable, it takes a bunch more volts to make your system stable the higher you go, sometimes double or even triple the voltage bumps when you start getting above 3.2-3.3, all depends on your CPU and how much vdroop your board has.
 
hmm, as for my SLI problem, i just fired up ut2k4, and the SLI indicator works, so it would seem SLI does engage for UT2k4

ill try quake 4 as well once i get the patch in, quite odd, SLI not working for 3dm05 but it dos for ut...

EDIT: Quake 4 also uses SLI correctly, my own recorded timedemo does 65 FPS single card and 120 FPS on SLI, so all seems well, its probably some whacky driver bug or whatever which doesnt let SLI activate under 3dm
 
okay ordered my Platinum. Now I just need to decide on a heatsink for the CPU (E4400).

My goal is 3.0GHz (300fsb). What is recommended that fits securely and will fit inside my Antec P150/SOLO case? (I think the Thermalright Ultra 120s will fit but just barely, and they're out of stock everywhere it seems.)
 
The enzotech Ultra-X will fit, and if you are aiming that high may assist quite will in your venture.
 
Hey again, all.

Got all my components, and the board still shuts itself off. I attached the D-bracket to JDB1 (don't know where the yellow connector goes), and I get 3 red and 1 green: the 1 green being light #2.

The manual says this is onboard memory check. I bought a 2 x 1GB Mushkin DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) and am putting it in DIMM1 and DIMM3. I tried interchanging them, tried using only 1 in DIMM1, tried using the other in DIMM1, tried using either in DIMM2, with no change: the board has juice, powers on, I see the light, and it powers off.

Most indicative (imo) is that when I remove both modules and power it on, it hangs on light #2 but does not power off.

Where am I going wrong? It seems so unlikely to me that both chips could be bad. Did I buy the wrong RAM from NewEgg? Or could it be something else altogether?

Thanks,
Dan

EDIT: Oh, here's my setup
Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
ENERMAX Liberty ELT500AWT ATX12V 500W Power Supply
MSI P6N SLI-FI LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 650i SLI ATX Intel Motherboard
Intel Core 2 Duo E6400 Conroe 2.13GHz LGA 775 Processor
ZALMAN CNPS9500 LED 92mm 2 Ball Cooling Fan with Heatsink
mushkin 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit
ASUS EAX1950PRO/HTDP/256M Radeon X1950PRO GDDR3 PCI Express x16 Video Card
Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 ST3250820AS 250GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive (x2, RAID)
Sony NEC Optiarc 18X DVD±R DVD Burner
 
dhermann said:
*ram trouble story*
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from what ive read, some ram that requires higher then normal voltgae (around 2.1-2.2) doesnt boot at stock bios Vdimm, you might need to get some cheap 1.8v ddr2 to boot the mobo, go into bios and set the vdimm higher, then swap the memory

or it could be that your memory is incompatible
 
dhermann said:
...I bought a 2 x 1GB Mushkin DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) and am putting it in DIMM1 and DIMM3. I tried interchanging them, tried using only 1 in DIMM1, tried using the other in DIMM1, tried using either in DIMM2, with no change: the board has juice, powers on, I see the light, and it powers off.

Most indicative (imo) is that when I remove both modules and power it on, it hangs on light #2 but does not power off.

Where am I going wrong? It seems so unlikely to me that both chips could be bad. Did I buy the wrong RAM from NewEgg? Or could it be something else altogether?
Click to expand...

That memory is not listed on the front page (I hadn't seen anyone report using it yet), but I don't see any reason for it not to work, either. Frankly, it sounds like you just got a bad mb. But there may be a few things to try before sending it back for replacement...

1. Clear the CMOS. Make sure the power is unplugged from the board and push the power button to make sure all juice is discharged, then press and hold the CMOS reset button down for about 4-5 seconds. If you want to make really sure it's cleared, remove the battery as well (but you shouldn't need to).

2. If you have any other memory available for testing, try that (one stick in each of the 4 slots).

...it sounds like you've already gone through the various iterations with that memory, so if you've tripple checked all your connections and the above doesn't help, it may just be a bad board.
 
I realize this may have been answered before, but i'm new and have searched and am not finding whether or not it is beneficial to buy ram over 800. I see that Corsair DDR-8000 seems to be popular and stable....but does it really make a difference that justifies the price jump? Also, I hear of the voltage issue...over 2.2 volts for the ram doesn't or may not work for this ram like the problem the guy above had...is this solved by the guy who responded who said get a cheap stick of ram and change the bios settings? Just making sure before I get this board. I was originally planning to just get DDR 800. I'll consider faster ram if it makes a worthwhile difference...and of coarse if the 2.2 volt deal is easily fixed.
 
Hi, anyone knows if 2x Buffalo 1GB DDRII 800 MHZ D2U800C-1G/BJ works fine with this motherboard?

Edit: If it matters, P6N SLI-FI, not the platinum.
 
Can those of you with E4300s and E4400s post your current stable overclocks and what settings (especially how much any voltage bumps are) you needed to get there? :)
 
Harvap said:
Hi, anyone knows if 2x Buffalo 1GB DDRII 800 MHZ D2U800C-1G/BJ works fine with this motherboard?

Edit: If it matters, P6N SLI-FI, not the platinum.
Click to expand...

For whatever it's worth my 2x1GB Buffalo Firestix DDR800 work awesome. :)
 
musicstudio said:
I realize this may have been answered before, but i'm new and have searched and am not finding whether or not it is beneficial to buy ram over 800. I see that Corsair DDR-8000 seems to be popular and stable....but does it really make a difference that justifies the price jump? Also, I hear of the voltage issue...over 2.2 volts for the ram doesn't or may not work for this ram like the problem the guy above had...is this solved by the guy who responded who said get a cheap stick of ram and change the bios settings? Just making sure before I get this board. I was originally planning to just get DDR 800. I'll consider faster ram if it makes a worthwhile difference...and of coarse if the 2.2 volt deal is easily fixed.
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Here's a clip from the second post in this thread..

Etc.​


Building a new system? Here's some handy links to more general info that might be of interest...​


How much power is enough? - nice article at Legion Hardware about PSU requirements.
DDR2 Frequency Performance - another interesting article at Legion Hardware about the relative need (or not) for high-performance memory with C2D systems.
DDR2 Latency Performance - sister article to the above.​

FrostyTech Heatsink & Cooling Reviews - they use a simulated, by highly repeatable heat-source for thier reviews, which removes some guesswork and case issues, so the results are purely related to the HSF's ability to disperse heat. There are both pros and cons to this approach, but it's another good data-point to have.
CPU Heatsink Roundup April 2007 - MADSHRIMP's total list of reviewed HSFs (for comparison purposes) is pretty decent now, but unfortunately doesn't include any Thermalright products.
AnandTech Cooler Reviews - looking at any recent review will show some Thermalrights in the list and maybe fill in some other gaps.
[H] Enthusiast Cooling Reviews - if you're thinking about moving up to a water solution, there's a good list here.

26 120mm Fans Compared - recent excellent fan review in XS forums.
Fan section at MADSHRIMPS - they also have some good fan reviews
SPCR's Fan Round-Up #2: 120mm Fans - a more restrictive review of 6 fans from the "Silence before everything else" folks :).
SPCR's Fan Round-Up #3: 92mm Fans - thier review of 6 92mm fans.
SPCR's 80x25mm Fan Round-Up #1 - ...and the 80mm fans for good measure (the industry has mostly moved away from this size, but older cases still use them).
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...the 2nd and 3rd links above have some good info about ram speeds.
 
Treyshadow said:
The enzotech Ultra-X will fit, and if you are aiming that high may assist quite will in your venture.
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Hey Treyshadow, I'm trying to keep a list of user-reports of various components on the front page for others to reference... I don't see any reason why the Ultra-X wouldn't fit, but do you have first-hand experience/confirmation that it does?

Thanks.
 
re: dhermann

i'm currently using mushkin ram in my setup (XP2-6400)
i haven't had any issues, except i believe that when i increase the vcore to get higher oc's it seems that the mb is overvolting my memory. i've tested the same memory clock speeds( and timing) with a lower vcore voltage and everything works fine-no errors in memtest. btw at stock vore/cpu speed the mem seems to be undervolted.
it seems that i have hit a 'wall' until i can find a solution to the issue...
 
I see that MSI has finally gotten around to updating the BIOS for the Platinum board (they updated the FI board a week or two ago)....

Version 1.2

- Update CPU Micro code.
- Fixed system cannot resume from suspend by keyboard under DOS mode.
- Fixed system lose audio 5.1 channels after resume from S3.


...in other news, they've also added the BIOS page (no updates yet) for the P6N SLI V2 and P6N Diamond boards, which might indicate that they are closer to release (they didn't have BIOS update pages until now).
 
yacoub35 said:
Can those of you with E4300s and E4400s post your current stable overclocks and what settings (especially how much any voltage bumps are) you needed to get there? :)
Click to expand...

I have an e4300. There was a problem with my board, RAM slots related, but only with one DIMM slot. The other two worked and when I was using it I achieved a completely stable (24+ hours on Orthos blend test) overclock of 3.0Ghz. The required voltages are listed in my signature.

I achieved 2.7Ghz without any jumps from stock voltage, which for my processor is a 50% overclock. If you go by percentage your e4400 (2.0Ghz right?) might be able to achieve 3.0Ghz (also 50%) on stock voltage and still be stable.

And I should be getting the replacement motherboard on Thursday. I won't have time to hook it all up until the weekend though. And then I'll need to redo the overclock and get it stable again. :(
 
Just thought I'd let everyone know that a Big Typhoon cooler fits just fine. Nice & quiet too.
 
ok odd problem i have never ran into before..

I have the non plat ver with the 2.0 bios that came stock...

anyway to the problem...

ok initally i had plugged in my ether net cord (cat5) to the port in the back of the mobo. All the lites came on, but no internet connection. Then i realized that i needed to install the drivers from the MSI cd for the Nvidia products. So i installed those drivers off the MSI cd. Plugged the ether net cable back into the slot and now i have no lights.

I uninstalled the nvidia drivers, went to there site and downloaded the newest ones installed and now still no lights. I then uninstalled it all and then tried agian, no lights and no connection. I kist formated and reinstlled Vista, vista auto detected the nvidia network and installed it, put the plug into the slot and still no lights and no connection.

so now i am stuck. I checked bios just to make sure i did not turn off the lan support/perf and it is not turned off.. so now i am lost. and have no internet on my main rig.

any help would be great.

thanks

EZ
 
Hey all - last night for fun I switched from 2T to 1T command rate, leaving all other settings unchanged (4-4-4-15, 1:1, 800mHz, 2.0v). She seems a little quicker, but I could be imagining things:p . No stability tests run yet. Is there any real world improvement to be had here, or will I just be pushing things too far and possibly even messing things up at these settings? I did a little searching on the net but came to no real conclusions and would be interested in this group's opinions.

Also slowly gathering parts as they go on sale at the Egg for my kids' system. It's gonna be a P6N SLI-FI setup. I've read several reviews where the NB HS is unsatisfactory. I will OC this machine mildly. Are you most of you using the stock NB HS or have you opted for aftermarket?

Thanks for any feedback.
 
Edge said:
Hey all - last night for fun I switched from 2T to 1T command rate, leaving all other settings unchanged (4-4-4-15, 1:1, 800mHz, 2.0v). She seems a little quicker, but I could be imagining things:p . No stability tests run yet. Is there any real world improvement to be had here, or will I just be pushing things too far and possibly even messing things up at these settings? I did a little searching on the net but came to no real conclusions and would be interested in this group's opinions.

Also slowly gathering parts as they go on sale at the Egg for my kids' system. It's gonna be a P6N SLI-FI setup. I've read several reviews where the NB HS is unsatisfactory. I will OC this machine mildly. Are you most of you using the stock NB HS or have you opted for aftermarket?

Thanks for any feedback.
Click to expand...

Using stock, and no stability problems so far. NB at 1.4. Although I do have a side case fan blowing in the general diection of video card and NB, so that probably helps.
 
Thanks Scourgge. I'm considering cutting a hole for a side case fan, so you're right - it could certainly benefit from that. Antec Sonata II.
 
3.6Ghz w/ E6600 on stock NB cooling for the SLI-FI board

i've had it up to 1.45v on NB with stock cooling and it's perfectly stable

i'm going to add a noctua NB heatsink and chipsinks to the mosfets later this week/weekend to see if it can go higher, although my limiting factor may be the arctic cooling freezer pro 7 cpu cooler

there is performance to be had running at 1T, whether it's 2% or 6%, it will be faster no matter what

here's some links for more info on the command rate:
http://techreport.com/etc/2005q4/mem-latency/index.x?pg=3
http://www.overclock.net/amd-memory/32605-1t-vs-2t-command-rate-there.html
http://www.mushkin.com/doc/techSupport/papers/latency.asp
 
Thanks prospero - I don't imagine I'd go above 1.4v, so that's good news. Yep, I read a couple of those same links regarding 1T and 2T. I'll run some stability tests @1T, then maybe try benchmarking apps for both 1T and 2T, just for kicks. Could be fun.
 
Does the msi p6n-SLI have any drops or need any vmods that I should be aware of?
 
I have greatly enjoyed all the info provided by this thread--Spanki, you deserve a public service award. I will be starting with an Asrock DualVsta board to allow a slow transition from my current antiquated rig to a full-blown Core2/PCI-E machine, but when I've got the right pieces in place, the MSI board will be the finishing touch.

My latest excitement of discovery centers on the DDR2 articles concerning speed and timings. It looks like the most expensive single investment for the new "dream machine" other than the video card will be the RAM--not what I was expecting, and so I don't want to screw it up. I figured I would need at least DDR2-667 if not 800, CAS 4 if possible. Back when I first began shopping, it looked like this was going to require over $200, even with rebates--just 2 or 3 months ago.

Then based on the posts in this thread, it looked like it was best to get RAM that defaulted to 1.8 volts--not very common among faster kits, I discovered. And what did I really need? Was 2T good enough? How about CAS5?

After reading the two articles, I was pleased that my suspicion about bus speed was correct, that it had no real performance impact. I figured the article on timings would be more of the same, but surprise, surprise, not so! Looks like CAS4 and 1T are just about as "low" as you can go if you don't want to lose the full potential of the CPU and GPU. So I went shopping again with fear and trembling--how much would DDR2-800 at 4-4-4-12 1T cost me? $300? $400? Would it only run at 2.4 volts?

Imagine my joy when I found the G-SKill 4-4-3-5 1T RAM on NewEgg for $125 in a 2x1 GB kit, then found it on the compatibility list here. I keep wondering what the catch is, but judging by the user reviews at Egg, there is none. Those timings are just sick! The only thing that worries me at all is the voltage. Is the fact that this RAM prefers 2.0-2.1 volts a source of any trouble?
 
2.0-2.1 should pose no trouble at all. RAM prices have dropped like crazy over the past two months... when I started looking at the begining of March, the cheapest DDR2 800 memory I was interested in was in the $230-$250 range... it's dropped $100 since then (!).
 
Glow said:
Does the msi p6n-SLI have any drops or need any vmods that I should be aware of?
Click to expand...

The vdroop is slight on these boards. I'm only aware of a total of one person doing a mod so far (in the Coolaler forums) - meaning, there is info available on how/where to do the mod, but 99.9999999% of owners haven't done it or even heard about it, so no - it's not needed.
 
3degree said:
RoadDog- What version/stepping do you have of the 6400.

---------------------------

I've got an L2 6400 and can boot into WIN up to 8x 1564 FSB (391) but can only test out stable to 1520 (380 fsb) ---- where BubbaW has a B2 and is getting >400fsb.

And I'm having to goose the voltages more than what I see elsewhere.....
Click to expand...

Question posed to Intel's Tech Service:

What is the difference in the B2 and L2 Stepping Versions of the E6400?
Why would my (and others that I have seen the results for) L2 version overclock so much more poorly than comparable B2 E6400's?

Official response from intel as to B2 vs L2 Revisions:

Thank you for contacting Intel(R) Technical Support

The differences between the two processor revisions are small variations on the processor microcode, which can make poor overclocking. Please keep in mind that overclocking is neither recommended nor supported by Intel(R).
Information on this subject can be found at:
http://www.intel.com/support/processors/tools/frequencyid/sb/cs-007627.htm and http://www.intel.com/support/processors/sb/cs-001614.htm

Intel(R) Technical Support
 
Ok new update.

I unhooked my router, went straight from cable modem to net port on back on motherboard, then updated the drivers via nvidia update and now everything is fine in that config.

then tired modem to gizmo (voip hardware), gizmo to mbo and got nothing.

then tried plug from modem back to my router and then router to my PC i get nothing again, my old pc never had this probelm and i know the router is good cause my wireless works fine.

Is there some kind of litmiter on my router? it is an older model not sure if it is 1000mb capable. anyway anything that i can do to make this work with my router, as i need to get my VOIP phone set back up.

thanks EZ
 
Hi all, newbie to forum reports :)

Just assembled new system - P6N Platinum + E6600 + Kingston HyperxDDR800CL4. After some tuning and stability tests, the max. (with reasonable voltages for me):
  • CPU 3.4GHz, +0.1V (8 multiplier) [although 1.41V reported in Win)
  • FSB 1700 (425x4) NB 1.4V
  • MEM 4-4-4-12-2T (2.0V) @ DDR850 (thus 1:1)
  • BIOS 1.1 (all appropriate options disabled - EIST, spread spectrum, C1E etc.)
Not as high as I hoped, but still I am satisfied, especially by 425FSB and memory running 1:1@850MHz. My "FSB hole" is appr. 375-420Mhz :( Now system runs fine (Thermalright 120 Ultra + Scythe 120mm) without NB cooling (waiting for Scythe MiniKaze replacement silent 40mm fan). My only disappointment is that I'll have to change my excellent Scythe 1600rpm fan, since it is only 3-pin and I don't want it to run at full all the time. The only fan with PWR (4-pin) I can get here is Arctic Cooling (AF12025 PWM - 120mm) - looks good on paper, uses the same fluid bearing as Scythe fan. With slow adoption of 4-pin headers it is unfortunate that most of the best fans are still only in 3-pin flavor :(

Btw. HyperX 800CL4 was a real surprise for me - maintaining solid 4-4-4-12 at 2.0V up to appr. 870MHz! Even over DDR900 with a bit higher voltage (2.15V). With the price slightly over 1/2 of the DDR800 Dominators it surely is an excellent value :)
 
Hey guys. And Spanki.
I hope you remember me. I was pretty acitve about 2 weeks ago. I was having issues running my system in dual channel mode. and i ended up sending my mobo for replacement back to newegg. I just got the new one yesterday. I just set it up. and guess its not even booting. The D-Bracket LEDS are blank. no green or red. I just swapped the old mobo to this one. of course new ram and processor. before when i had this mobo my computer was booting up and working. only it wouldn't boot if i tried going dual channel.
I don't know what i am doing wrong here. i would love to have some suggestions.
When i press the power button all the fans turn on. the orange light for bios is on. the green light for the PCI cards is on. but thats about how far it goes. no sound coming from the internal speaker. and D-Brack LEDS as i mentioned before are blank. i tried resetting the cmos a few times. didn't do jack.
I need help!
SYS INFO:
MB MSI P6N SLI PLATINUM NF650ISLI
Kingston HyperX 1GB (2 x 512MB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory
Intel Core 2 Duo E6400 Conroe 2.13GHz 2M shared L2 Cache LGA 775 Processor
MSI NX7900GT-VT2D256E-HD GeForce 7900GT 256MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 Video Card
ANTEC 400 watt Smart Power supply
 
intothevoid said:
I don't know what i am doing wrong here. i would love to have some suggestions.
When i press the power button all the fans turn on. the orange light for bios is on. the green light for the PCI cards is on. but thats about how far it goes. no sound coming from the internal speaker. and D-Brack LEDS as i mentioned before are blank. i tried resetting the cmos a few times. didn't do jack.
Click to expand...

Last time I had this symptoms with one system I built for a friend, the CPU was "wrong" (not working correctly)... If the RAM of GFX was bad, I got report (beeps), but when CPU was wrong, everything was silent (although "running", at least fans and LEDs). But that might not be the case :( Is the new mobo a completely new (new sealed box)? I can imagine then after RMA you may end up with other RMA-ed mobo whis is "supposed" to work :( No other idea.
 
ondro727 said:
Last time I had this symptoms with one system I built for a friend, the CPU was "wrong" (not working correctly)... If the RAM of GFX was bad, I got report (beeps), but when CPU was wrong, everything was silent (although "running", at least fans and LEDs). But that might not be the case :( Is the new mobo a completely new (new sealed box)? I can imagine then after RMA you may end up with other RMA-ed mobo whis is "supposed" to work :( No other idea.
Click to expand...

Man i pissed off. This is annoying. I never issues like this with newegg stuff. The Mobo looks new and unused. all the accessories were sealed and stuff. How can i tell if its RMA ed by someone else ?.
I tried tacking some PCI cards and stuff and that didn't do anything either. I took out the fan from the processor to make sure everything was good. but that didn't do anything either. I don't think its the CPU because as i mentioned I had the previous mobo working with the CPU. Only issue was the Dual Channel ram and the BIOS only showed 3 fans when i had 4 fans connected to it. :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :confused:

Maybe i can go buy another power supply like 500 watt or something and see if that changes anything. But i doubt it cause this same mobo worked before on the same powersupply.
 
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