My DIY Multi-Monitor Mount / Stand...

jmroberts70

2[H]4U
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Oct 15, 2002
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First of all, I’d like to acknowledge all of the people that have inspired me to even think of doing this myself…

Persimmon Gauge’s blog post – one of the first articles I found online about DIY monitor stands
DrFish at the TechReport.com forum – first got me thinking of doing this entirely out of 3/4″ pipe
loki_racer right [H]ere! – also helped getting the juices flowing
seven9st surfer at Overclock.net’s forum – he may have been one of the first to post a project like this

There are quite a few other projects out there that I’ve seen but these stand out to me as leading the way for my own project. –Also, let’s not forget that I’m not exactly unfamiliar with mounting monitors with 3/4″ pipe… My own post done a few years ago really got me comfortable with custom monitor mounts using galvanized pipe for this sort of work. BTW, I'm still driving around with that 15" touchscreen in my car and I can't imagine being without it!!

Next, let’s understand my personal situation: I presently work in the CAD Drafting / Design field where monitor real estate is king. The more space you have to work with, the more productive you can become. I have been slowly purchasing used 20″ LCD’s from eBay over the last year for this very project. I wanted to get the monitor stands off the desk so that I would have more space for papers, equipment, keyboard, etc. I also prefer non-widescreen displays as I get more screen space vertically. 1600×1200 is a must for a 20″ display. 1920×1200 for a 24″ display. I can get pretty good deals on these screens when you buy them without their original stands –and I’m not going to need them eventually so that works out fine for me! I’d like whatever stand I build to have a certain amount of adjustability as I hope to eventually graduate to 24″ screens (or at least add one or two) and sometimes I like to move the display around a bit for better viewing from different angles. This rules out some of the systems listed above that have not only a fixed spacing but a fixed angle. Ideally I’m looking for a DIY version of a monitor stand based on the design shown below…

mount00.jpg

With pivoting arms behind the monitor, I will be able to adjust the angle between each display as well as add wider displays in the future without another trip to the hardware store for a few longer pipe sections! I’m hoping to accomplish the pivot joints with a couple of elbows (an old plumber’s trick to create adjustability).

So, in this first article, I’m going to build the custom VESA mounts for my monitors. Since I’m going to be connecting to a 3/4″ pipe flange, it doesn’t do me any good to start with an existing VESA bracket as there isn’t one that would work so I head on down to my local scrap metal shop (National Metals and Surplus) for a nice thick 1/4″ aluminum plate. I have to do it quickly because if I spend too much time at that place I’ll buy everything there!! Anyways, I lucked out with one of the HP LP2065 monitors I purchased this past year as it came with the metal adapter to mount it to their stock stand. It turned out to be the PERFECT template for building my custom VESA brackets!

mount01.jpg

Here you can see I’ve already cut and trimmed one of the four brackets I’m planning on building this time. I’ve already gone ahead and marked out the next three on the $6 aluminum plate I just grabbed from the scrap metal yard…

mount02.jpg

A little bit of time on the disk grinder smooths over the sharp edges and ensures my jagged cuts from the jigsaw are nice and straight. I then round off the corners –just because!

mount03.jpg

With the 4 mounting holes located from the template, I can draw an “X” and locate the 3/4″ pipe flange and mark their holes for drilling.

mount04.jpg

Now the drill press goes to work! I’d say what size drill bit I’m using but I just don’t think it matters too much. Size your hole to the fasteners you’re using yourself. I like to make the holes just a slight amount larger so that there is some play in the event that my holes aren’t exactly in the right place.

mount05.jpg

I countersink the mounting holes for the pipe flange as the fasteners will be behind the plate and directly against the monitor backing. This is why it’s important to use a nice think 1/4″ plate for this job. You’ll have plenty of material to work with when countersinking your holes. Sure, I could have gotten away with a thinner material but better to play it safe!

mount06.jpg

Here’s the countersink drill bit I use. It’s designed for aluminum so it makes the work MUCH easier to do. Many countersinking bits I’ve used that were designed to work with steel will clog with aluminum fragments. In a pinch, you can do this with a very large drill bit (I have) but you have to be very careful! I’ve had this bit for over 15 years now and I can’t possibly remember where I got it.

mount07.jpg

Now comes the mounting hardware. In my case, I’m using a nice phillips-head countersunk machine screw with a washer and locknut at the other end. I don’t think you need to use locknuts in most instances but I just happened to have this hardware from my previous automotive installation layout around so I figured I’d use it! Here you can see the head of the machine screw mounting flush against the aluminum plate.

mount08.jpg

Now with the pipe flange securely fastened, you can see why I needed to use washers. The pipe flange holes are also countersunk! I thought of cleaning up the aluminum plate but then realized that it will NEVER be seen so why bother!

mount09.jpg

Now mounted to my first 20″ monitor with button-head phillips screws. I managed to find a fairly wide head so I didn’t feel there was too much need for washers here. Note that the VESA standard for screw hardware on many monitors use a fine-threaded metric size. Make sure you take a sample with you when going to the hardware store for longer screws!

mount10.jpg

One display mounted and ready to go! I can’t wait to get the rest of them done and mounted!

mount11.jpg

Rinse, lather, repeat… More to come!!
 
**UPDATE**
So, now that I’ve dealt with the VESA mounting bracket, it’s time to tackle the pesky problem of how to resolve the geometry of the brackets behind the monitors. As I’ve already mentioned, I want to maintain some adjustability both for individual monitors (pitch and yaw) but also have the ability to accommodate a future 24″ center screen. Hell, I may wind-up with all 24″ screens but I just don’t want to bother replacing lateral pipes when it may not be necessary…

mount-design-002.gif

So here’s my design concept to answer this problem. To allow the center monitor to be adjustable, it needs it’s own 2 X 90-degree elbow mount so that means that the center pillar will be slightly off-center. I then run the display further to the left on a connection ABOVE the center display. I’ve thought about this a while and see no other way to allow for independent adjustability. Naturally, I’m open to suggestions at this point!

So far, my shopping list looks like this:
14 x 90-degree elbow
11 x short nipple
1 x large nipple (joining the two cross fittings together)
3 x pipe flange
2 x cross-fitting (possibly larger core pipe size for main column)

I have yet to work out how the final base stand will look so I’m still working on that…
 
**UPDATE**
Wshew!! This was a serious exercise!! My arms are sore and my back is killing me!! Next time I will get bigger pipe wrenches (something larger than 14″) if I ever have to do this again. Without delay, here’s the temporary setup while I move my big desk…

mount15.jpg

I’m just infatuated with these little HP LP2065 screens! Very bright, small frame, and hand hold slot at the top in the rear. As you can see, the frame flows well over the left side of my temporary desk. Not a problem for this setup! If I was still using the OEM monitor stands, this arrangement just wouldn’t have worked. I’m already starting to LOVE this frame!

mount12.jpg

From the back before wiring it up and lifting it to my temporary desk. In the future, I’ll probably need to use more than one person to lift this as it is quite heavy when fully assembled. The white wood base is also just a temporary thing. I’m either going to use a large 1/4″ aluminum plate or some MDF. I’d much rather use aluminum but it’s starting to get expensive!

mount13.jpg

Here you can see the angles involved in getting the screens to align properly. Now there are plenty of examples of pipe-based multi-monitor frame setups that are much simpler than this arrangement but they have no provision for adjusting the angles or distances in the event of a desire for a different viewing angle OR adding different size monitors in the future. I believe it was worth the trouble but I may also be totally wrong! Still, the exercise was worth doing.

mount14.jpg

Lastly, in this closeup, you can see why the center post needed to be offset and why the additional level is used. This design allows individual adjustments of both the angle of pitch as well as side-to-side. In the long run, this may not be necessary and I may wind-up with a much simpler design but at this point, Ive been quite happy with the result.

I have considered building a “hutch / monitor frame” design where I start with a shelf that runs overhead and then mount the monitors to the bottom of the shelf going down as opposed to starting from the desk and working up. I like the fact that it keeps all monitor hardware off the desk but it also prevents me from sliding the screens around to make adjustments or changes to the hookups. Still, I may explore this idea in the future… In the mean time, I’m really enjoying the newly added screen real estate for a relatively low cost!

As project's end, I'd say my total investment in hardware for the frame is under $100.
 
Wow impressive and I thought I was working hard just to get 4 wall mounts level to get an articulating triple setup. I may have to keep your design in mind for the future when I change my setup at the next upgrade.
 
nice job, good metal work but still wonder why you just didn't make /get a bigger desk...
You can always use a spare door.
 
nice job, good metal work but still wonder why you just didn't make /get a bigger desk...
You can always use a spare door.

LOL!! Actually I am getting a bigger desk. It's being moved to my new location right now. I'll probably have pics of it in place by the end of the week.
 
GHETTO :D

What did it cost?

I might do it, if I can get the ghetto price too. ;)
 
Most of the cost of the frame was the piping. Since I was using so many fittings, I wound up checking the prices at several hardware stores around town. Most all the pipe materials are what's called "black pipe" as it's intended for gas lines and doesn't have the galvanized coating. It is usually a little less in price but doesn't look as pretty. I didn't care about looks since no one would actually see this frame once it's put in place. I'd say I've spent a little under $100 for the whole project. That includes a few trips to the local scrap metal yard for some 1/4" thick aluminum plate to fabricate the VESA mount to 3/4" pipe flange adapter. I'm still thinking about using another large 1/4" aluminum plate for the final base but that's gonna' run me about $40 and I'm just tapped out right now... We'll see!
 
$100-$140 :eek:

I'll just get three wall mount arms from monoprice.

No doubt!! It was a real pain in the a$$ to build this beast and it is really heavy. But I've used plenty of those cheap, articulating wall mount brackets and I can easily tell you not to waste your hard-earned money there! Get a quality frame for a decent price. I'd say something around $250. Those flimsy cheap frames strip threads, can't handle the weight, and just plain suck!

...Also, in my case, I can't mount to the wall where I am as it's a temporary work location for the next few months, I can add larger 24" HP LP2465 screens in the future and not need any new hardware, and I can expand above with even MORE screens on the existing stand without too much trouble!
 
Hahaha! $250..

I am not spending half the amount I spent on monitors, for a stand.
 
Any reason why you didnt put the side monitors both off the bottom + joint and the center from the top? It would have made the sides symmetric and let you center the post
 
Any reason why you didnt put the side monitors both off the bottom + joint and the center from the top? It would have made the sides symmetric and let you center the post

Good thinking but it wouldn't work and still allow the same amount of adjustability I have. You see, each monitor MUST have the two 90-degree elbow joint connection behind it to allow for two axis of rotation adjustment. This means that the center monitor still has to come out of the SIDE of the center post so there's no way to make the center post lay in the middle of the assembly.

Now, if I could find a pivot joint like this that would tie into pipe that can handle the weight of these and heavier monitors, I'd probably consider using it...
2-axispivot01.jpg
 
check out 8020 aluminum. You could build yourself something with a lot more functionality and it would be much stronger than using pipe like this.
 
check out 8020 aluminum. You could build yourself something with a lot more functionality and it would be much stronger than using pipe like this.

Yeah, I did actually. The fact is that it would cost MUCH more than what I did. This guy has a setup using 8020 (including a completely hand-built 8020 desk underneath). There are several other reasons for not wanting a similar setup...

1. His frame is mounted to the wall. I can't do that where I live.
2. His monitors are firmly set in their angle of pitch being perpendicular to the desk. I want the ability to adjust that.
3. Being mounted to the wall and not free standing means I can't move the assembly around when I need to access cabling or re-arrange hookups or simply make room on the desk for a temporary project...
4. I plan on replacing the center 20" screen with a 24" screen and moving the 20" screen to a 4th position directly above the center screen. I'm sure there's a way to do this in 8020 but I still think that pipe will do the job just as well.

As I start using this assembly, I may get to the point where I don't need to adjust the pitch of the screens and then will go with a much simpler design. Hell, if I can be satisfied with a fixed angle between screens (like a simple 45-degree angle), my life will be MUCH easier! I'm still experimenting with what I like working with but for the moment this is doing the job for a really low price.

Here's my new, larger desk setup...
mount16.jpg

Next is buying very long DVI and power cables so I can clean up the wiring behind the frame and strap them down to the pipe.
 
what's the pt. of this exercise? Why not just go to any PC accessories place to buy a stand? And is the back of the plastic of a LCD able to handle the weight and the stress from those metal in the long run, would they crack?
 
That could withstand a cat 5 hurricane but Pretty ghetto. at least paint it (need to take UPC stickers off first)... Personally I'd would have used 1/2" pipe or AXIEL RC parts.

laxic3441.jpg
 
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check out 8020 aluminum. You could build yourself something with a lot more functionality and it would be much stronger than using pipe like this.

lol who needs stronger than 3/4 in pipe to hold up 15 lb monitors? You can lift out a v10 engine with 3/4 pipe, I've done it.
 
what's the pt. of this exercise? Why not just go to any PC accessories place to buy a stand? And is the back of the plastic of a LCD able to handle the weight and the stress from those metal in the long run, would they crack?

Well the main point of the exercise was to see if it could be done but I pretty much couldn't afford anything more expensive and still have the same sturdy design. I've used cheap monitor stands in the past (wall mounts which I can't do were I'm at) and I'm not too pleased with them. Seriously, for $100, you're not going to get anything even close to this.

BTW, the mounting points on the back of most LCD's are actually metal and not simply embedded screw holes in the plastic housings. Plenty of strength and not much risk of cracking.

I'm already considering some changes though. It may turn out that I don't need the amount of adjustability I originally thought and I may be removing MUCH of the complexity in the frame as a result. I still do plan on moving the center screen up and putting a 24" in it's place for a total of 4 screens but I've got some saving up to do before that!
 
Holy thread revival!! Man, I can't say I remember but the large plate of aluminum I cut up for the back plates was pricey from the local metal recycler but well worth it. Maybe $100 or more in pipe fittings. Frankly, I wouldn't do this again. Turns out a simple 45-degree fitting is pretty much the perfect angle for me --no need for the heavy adjustment arms I had there. I may be building a new frame in my new office but it is far in the back-burner right now...
 
wow nice job. I need one for my dual 30" too.
I just need to know how to drill holes now
 
How did you meassure where the holes for the monitor screw holes on the custom metal bracket?
 
Wow!! Another thread-revival!! LOL, I've actually moved to a commercial system for holding my multi-screen system for a number of reasons but you can see in the second image on the original post (blue pad below) that I had a black metal plate from the original monitor mount I used as a template but actually most all modern monitors use a standard bolt pattern called VESA that specifies where they should be located and spaced. They even cover regular flat-screen TV's.

What I found after building this original frame, was two things: 1) it is stupid-heavy!! 2) I never needed to be able to adjust the angles after they were put in place. Actually a 45-degree angle is almost perfect. So, I got the setup you see below:

2013multidisplay01a.jpg


I talked about it and posted more pics here:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1040316495&highlight=#post1040316495
 
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