New Alienware 27" 1440p 360hz OLED and 32" 4k 240hz OLED monitors coming in January 2024

LigTasm said:
Every time I hear of someone with burn in they have such an abnormal use case I can't even imagine why they bought it in the first place. If you use a monitor for normal gaming and web browsing there isn't a problem at all. My 48" OLED has like 6000 hours on it now and not a single speck of burn in. Its not rocket science.
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I hope you know you just mislead thousands of people. Also Rtings is saying the exact opposite of your post. Also most everyone else who doesn't have an alterior motive of purchase justification. The truth of the matter is You like Oleds in dark rooms, ok cool. That doesn't mean you need to mislead the entire rest of the world. It's cringe at this point. For every 1 that says it won't burn, there are 100 that say it will. The odds are against you rare birds. I'll tell you right now to your face, I don't believe for a second that any OLED won't burn on high brightness. On low brightness sure, but I could care less.
 
Yea, you gotta baby an oled in order to ensure no burn in. Static images in games played for HOURS and HOURS on end will burn in. I hate having two monitors on my desk, but always find having a FALD as primary is the best solution for now. FALD for work productivity and any gaming where I don't want burn in anxiety.
 
l88bastard said:
Yea, you gotta baby an oled in order to ensure no burn in. Static images in games played for HOURS and HOURS on end will burn in. I hate having two monitors on my desk, but always find having a FALD as primary is the best solution for now. FALD for work productivity and any gaming where I don't want burn in anxiety.
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I just don't know enough about it. I do play games for hours, never static however there will be static images such as the HUD in a shooter game or something.

Plus if I happen to forget to turn it off and sleep for 7 hours or something.

I've had OLED phone screens and they were a nightmare with absolute burn in is the only thing that I know for certain.
 
xDiVolatilX said:
I hope you know you just mislead thousands of people. Also Rtings is saying the exact opposite of your post. Also most everyone else who doesn't have an alterior motive of purchase justification. The truth of the matter is You like Oleds in dark rooms, ok cool. That doesn't mean you need to mislead the entire rest of the world. It's cringe at this point. For every 1 that says it won't burn, there are 100 that say it will. The odds are against you rare birds. I'll tell you right now to your face, I don't believe for a second that any OLED won't burn on high brightness. On low brightness sure, but I could care less.
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The actual results are more varied. There's several here with 5000+ hours on the LG OLEDs without burn in, but e.g on Reddit there's people reporting burn in on 3 month old QD-OLEDs.

Rtings stress tests have burn in on the LG CX I have, but their tests are worst case scenarios and don't reflect average experience. Don't buy an OLED if you intend to leave it on CNN all day long I guess.

Sure, OLEDs will burn in eventually so they can't be considered a display to keep for 5-10 years. I'm fine with that. In an enthusiast forum like this one, I'd expect most people to swap to the latest and greatest within that timeframe or earlier. My LG CX 48" is still going strong after over 3 years.
 
My reply from other thread:



8citjg.jpg



. . . . . . . . . .


I always come back to saying a few things when people post a ton of questions about it:

#1 -if you are that worried about it buy it from best buy and spring for the 5 year warranty. It's not that much as an insurance policy in $ per year considering how worried you see to be. Then you can sleep easy from your fear, at least for 5 years.
-
#2 - if you are doing a lot of static desktop/apps rather than heavy on the media and gaming side (+ have such worried concern about an OLED screen), consider a side LCD screen for the static stuff, maybe the screen you were using previously for example, or just getting a really good FALD pc monitor instead of an OLED in the first place.
#3 - if you don't want to use any common sense oled usage practices at all, refer to #1 and #2.
#4 - get an oled gaming tv on sale so it's not a $1200 - $2000 gaming monitor you are fretting about, and so the BB warranty will be a little less since its cost is a fraction based on the sale price.

#5 - if you aren't willing to decouple the screen of a 42" or larger oled gaming tv from the desk on its own mount a little farther away, don't be surprised if the pixels sizes look more like those of a 1400p - 1500p desktop monitor and you end up having to make some compromises on the non-RGB format text (e.g. heavily massaging text-ss, seeking out and using alternative text-ss methods, scaling the desktop 125% or more which loses desktop/app real-estate). Also don't be surprised if it's a stretch visual-ergonomics wise when mounted up close directly on top of a desk, or if you find the uniformity to the ends of the screen isn't quite as good + it having some distortion.

#6 - LG OLEDs use a wear evening routine with a reserved brightness/energizing buffer. It should level out the oled emitters to where you burned them down to, then boost them all back up to normal again throughout your years of normal use. You won't know how much of that reserve buffer you have left though. More abusive usage practices will burn through the buffer sooner so it will run out earlier - but generally up until that point you aren't burning an OLED in, you are burning it down and the TV then compensates for it.



. . . .

Nothing wrong with preferring and being more comfortable with a high performing FALD LCD screen but the burn in terror is overstated considering the above.

. . .

Costco SquareTrade protection plan for screens:
https://www.costco.com/wcsstore/Cos...ore/Attachment/Costco+SquareTrade-TC-2016.pdf

What is not covered
J. Television or personal computer monitor screen imperfections, including “burn-in” or burned CRT phosphor;
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. . .
BestBuy.42inch.C3_Q&A: “Does the Geek Squad Extended Warranty cover OLED screen burn in?” 3 months ago
They will cover damage:"From bad pixels or a shadow image."This describes burn in pretty accurately, and they also cover:"Failure from normal wear and tear."Meaning if the burn in was caused from normal use of the TV, they will cover it. From their wording, even if the failure was from you not keeping it clean.That being said, the only way that you are getting burn in within the 2 year window Best Buy covers is if you buy a service remote and disable all the OLED screen protection settings. Just don't do that, damage caused by intentionally disabling protections voids the manufacturer warranty, so it probably wouldn't be covered by Best Buy either.
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Bestbuy geeksquad protection page Q&A: Does this cover OLED Burn-in? 9 months ago
Yes it does. I returned a monitor that had an image burned it and was covered. The warranty covers hardware issues and not physical damage done by the consumer
Answered by BushidoBrown 9 months ago
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.
1 yr ago:
https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED/comments/z91mhk/how_does_geek_squad_handle_burnin/
N0SYMPATHY
· 1 yr. ago
They will try and repair it first, if feasible, and then if not you’d get the comparable tv as a replacement.
Where some people get mad is how that process works. If you paid say $2500 for the tv and the replacement C2 is $2000 then you don’t get the different or anything. You’d be offered the C2 and then you’d have to rebuy the 5 year warranty as the previous one would be considered used in full.

Adventurous-Share759
· 1 yr. ago
I work for GS, can confirm what you say is accurate.
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the bestbuy warranty (e.g. the 5 year warranty I'd suggest for fearful people) is:

"We make house calls for TVs 42" and larger.

No need to lug your screen into a store. If your TV is 42" or larger, we'll come to your home to repair your issue. If we originally installed your TV, we'll also uninstall and reinstall it.
You'll never pay for parts and labor.
Click to expand...


We take care of 100% of the costs of parts and labor for covered repairs, with no hidden fees.
Click to expand...

If your screen has bad pixels or a shadow image, we'll correct it.

If you have at least three pixels that are always the same color or a ghost image that won't go away, we'll get your picture looking like new.
If your TV won’t turn on because of a power surge, we'll fix it.

If there's a power surge or fluctuation that damages your product, we'll make things right. This includes a surge caused by a lightning strike.
If the remote that came with your TV stops working, we'll replace it.

Get a one-time replacement for the remote control that was included in your TV’s original box.
Click to expand...
 
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xDiVolatilX said:
I hope you know you just mislead thousands of people. Also Rtings is saying the exact opposite of your post. Also most everyone else who doesn't have an alterior motive of purchase justification. The truth of the matter is You like Oleds in dark rooms, ok cool. That doesn't mean you need to mislead the entire rest of the world. It's cringe at this point. For every 1 that says it won't burn, there are 100 that say it will. The odds are against you rare birds. I'll tell you right now to your face, I don't believe for a second that any OLED won't burn on high brightness. On low brightness sure, but I could care less.
Click to expand...

My screen is in a porch with windows on every side. There is more window than wall. I run it on HDR which is 100% brightness. 0 problems. Just because you say it does doesn't make it so. RTings burn in test was to leave 100 TVs on CNN 24/7 for a year, of course the scrolling thing at the bottom will burn in. LCDs will burn in eventually doing the same thing too. Take some basic precautions like rotating the wallpaper and hiding the task bar, set up the ribbons screen saver for 15 minutes after idle, you know - the basic things.

EDIT: don't get me wrong - I'm not saying OLEDs aren't at risk for burn in, but its around the same as the old plasma TVs. EVeryone knew what to do back then or they had loads of money and didn't care. If your use case is business stuff or document editing where your screen is static 99% of the time, maybe its not for you. Normal home users, gamers, etc it works perfectly fine and the advantages outweigh the problems. Brightness is a big complaint I see, but imo they're already too bright. I don't understand how anyone runs these things at max brightness for FPS games.
 
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elvn said:
My reply from other thread:



8citjg.jpg



. . . . . . . . . .


I always come back to saying a few things when people post a ton of questions about it:

#1 -if you are that worried about it buy it from best buy and spring for the 5 year warranty. It's not that much as an insurance policy in $ per year considering how worried you see to be. Then you can sleep easy from your fear, at least for 5 years.
-
#2 - if you are doing a lot of static desktop/apps rather than heavy on the media and gaming side (+ have such worried concern about an OLED screen), consider a side LCD screen for the static stuff, maybe the screen you were using previously for example, or just getting a really good FALD pc monitor instead of an OLED in the first place.
#3 - if you don't want to use any common sense oled usage practices at all, refer to #1 and #2.
#4 - get an oled gaming tv on sale so it's not a $1200 - $2000 gaming monitor you are fretting about, and so the BB warranty will be a little less since its cost is a fraction based on the sale price.

#5 - if you aren't willing to decouple the screen of a 42" or larger oled gaming tv from the desk on its own mount a little farther away, don't be surprised if the pixels sizes look more like those of a 1400p - 1500p desktop monitor and you end up having to make some compromises on the non-RGB format text (e.g. heavily massaging text-ss, seeking out and using alternative text-ss methods, scaling the desktop 125% or more which loses desktop/app real-estate). Also don't be surprised if it's a stretch visual-ergonomics wise when mounted up close directly on top of a desk, or if you find the uniformity to the ends of the screen isn't quite as good + it having some distortion.

#6 - LG OLEDs use a wear evening routine with a reserved brightness/energizing buffer. It should level out the oled emitters to where you burned them down to, then boost them all back up to normal again throughout your years of normal use. You won't know how much of that reserve buffer you have left though. More abusive usage practices will burn through the buffer sooner so it will run out earlier - but generally up until that point you aren't burning an OLED in, you are burning it down and the TV then compensates for it.



. . . .

Nothing wrong with preferring and being more comfortable with a high performing FALD LCD screen but the burn in terror is overstated considering the above.

. . .


. . .


the bestbuy warranty (e.g. the 5 year warranty I'd suggest for fearful people) is:
Click to expand...
I could add to that as devils advocate even though I won't buy oled for the burn in possibility BUT to piggy back off your 5 year warranty idea, I have had monitors that were supposed to be "top tier" shit the bed and have screen issues even on a TN panel in much less than 5 years so.....yeah
 
WinMan_x2000 said:
Let's talk about how these new bad boys have eARC. No more crazy exotic setups to get 5.1. Plug a damn sound bar in and enjoy.
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I've just been using the Logitech Z960 and analog 5.1 for a long time, sounds good to me. You can also do optical if you want to play Dolby/DTS stuff, but gaming doesn't really use any of that.
 
Well I've unboxed my AW2725DF and got it powered on, first impressions are mixed. The glossy panel looks very good, colors look nice (I'm not calibrating anything and I do not care about accuracy), response time and smoothness are through the roof, but text is very very poor. Extreme fringing, white text on this forum looks beige. This might be the second worst text clarity I've ever seen on a monitor, second only to an extremely cheap 23" 1080p VA monitor I got at staples for $59. I haven't done any tweaking yet, just out of the box for now.
 
kasakka said:
The actual results are more varied. There's several here with 5000+ hours on the LG OLEDs without burn in, but e.g on Reddit there's people reporting burn in on 3 month old QD-OLEDs.

Rtings stress tests have burn in on the LG CX I have, but their tests are worst case scenarios and don't reflect average experience. Don't buy an OLED if you intend to leave it on CNN all day long I guess.

Sure, OLEDs will burn in eventually so they can't be considered a display to keep for 5-10 years. I'm fine with that. In an enthusiast forum like this one, I'd expect most people to swap to the latest and greatest within that timeframe or earlier. My LG CX 48" is still going strong after over 3 years.
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13,000+ hours on my 6 year old C8 and it's still doing fine. I can see it lasting another 4 years without issue.
 
LigTasm said:
Well I've unboxed my AW2725DF and got it powered on, first impressions are mixed. The glossy panel looks very good, colors look nice (I'm not calibrating anything and I do not care about accuracy), response time and smoothness are through the roof, but text is very very poor. Extreme fringing, white text on this forum looks beige. This might be the second worst text clarity I've ever seen on a monitor, second only to an extremely cheap 23" 1080p VA monitor I got at staples for $59. I haven't done any tweaking yet, just out of the box for now.
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Text on Oleds look beige to me also. That was the first thing I noticed. Not pure white. Even on max brightness it never looked white.
 
xDiVolatilX said:
Text on Oleds look beige to me also. That was the first thing I noticed. Not pure white. Even on max brightness it never looked white.
Click to expand...

It seems to be the QD-OLED thing, my WOLED doesn’t have much problem except some yellowing on the edge of text in certain circumstances. The bigger problem is this AW had a big cluster of stuck RGB subpixels right in the middle. Black and white look fine but the primary colors are dead.
 
WinMan_x2000 said:
Plz don't try and school me with your generic sound bar sucking nonsense. I have gone through a massive sound journey with the PC starting with ISA sound blasters. My current setup is schit audio with monitors and Mr speakers ether flow headphones.

It is next to impossible to get a quality 5.1 setup on a PC. Yes, you can do HDMI to a receiver. Lame if you want to use display port and gsync. It also adds latency if running multi monitor setup. I hated having a massive receiver. I hate having external volume control. For PC, a Sonos Arc with a proper rear setup would be amazing. Even a standard Sonos amp (which has arc) with my existing monitors would be amazing to link into.
Click to expand...

I have my LG C9 connected to my 4090 on my pc - and for sound I have a Sonos Arc, a Sonos Sub, and two Sonos Era 300 speakers (connected wirelessly) behind me.

The Arc is a foot away from me, and the rear speakers and the sub are three feet away. I’m in the middle of this and at 25% max volume the sound is almost unbearable.

I can’t describe the sound with this setup, but it feels like… an entity. The entire room shakes when I’m watching a movie.

I also started off, decades ago, with a sound blaster sound card. At the time, I thought my two small speakers from Koss were incredible. The oled 55 inch C9, the 4090, and the Sonos surround sound setup, have taken my gaming to a completely different level.

Yet I have to put up with people scoffing at my ‘soundbar’. I mean, whatever.
 
MavericK said:
I've just been using the Logitech Z960 and analog 5.1 for a long time, sounds good to me. You can also do optical if you want to play Dolby/DTS stuff, but gaming doesn't really use any of that.
Click to expand...

Some do.

Atmos (incl cyberpunk, alan wake 2, rez evil: village, jedi fallen orders)

https://www.pcgamingwiki.com/wiki/List_of_games_that_support_Dolby_Atmos


. . . .

The official list from Dolby. Not a super extensive list but there are some big titles on it. There are some titles missing like alan wake 2 on this list which are reported to have atmos on pc. I'd also suspect game sequels on the same engine or other game titles on the same engines might continue atmos support but it's not necessarily the case all of the time.

https://www.dolby.com/experience/games/


Halo infinite
Forza 5
Marvel Guardians of the Galaxy
Resident Evil: Village
MS Flight simulator
Jedi Fallen Order
No man's sky

Call of Duy: Modern Warfare
Returnal
BF: 2042
Back4Blood
Gears5
CoD: vanguard
Hi-Fi Rush
Monster Hunter: Rise
Farcry 6
Pyschonauts2
Diablo2
Cyberpunk 2077
Watch Dogs: Legion

Company of Heroes3
Naraka Bladepoint
CoD: Warzone
Rocket League
Sea of Thieves
The Elder Scrolls Online
The Division 2

. . . . .

https://www.avsforum.com/threads/dolby-atmos-for-gaming-thread.2941270/


NOTE: The current state of bitstreaming Atmos on Xbox One and Series X/S has Atmos mode always-on, regardless of the source having Atmos or not (exceptions: playing video content via disc - DVD or Blu-ray, or non-game apps that support bitstream passthrough). This always-on setting will upmix non-Atmos games ala Dolby Surround with the height channels active. This is not the case with Atmos on PC.

What games feature Dolby Atmos?

  • Assassins Creed Origins (Xbox)
  • Battlefield 1 (PC)
  • Borderlands 3 (Xbox, PC)
  • Call of Duty: Black Ops Cold War (Xbox, PC)
  • Call of Duty: Modern Warfare (2019) (Xbox, PC)
  • Call Of Duty Vanguard (Xbox, PC)
  • Call of Duty: Warzone (Xbox, PC)
  • Crash Bandicoot 4: It’s About Time (Xbox, non-Dolby spacial audio triggers Atmos)
  • Cyberpunk 2077 (Xbox, PC)
  • Crackdown 3
  • Devil May Cry 5 Special Edition (Xbox)
  • Dirt 5 (Xbox, PC no apparent Atmos in PC version despite Dolby claim)
  • F1 2020
  • F1 2021
  • Fast & Furious Crossroads (Xbox)
  • Final Fantasy XV (Xbox, PC)
  • For Honor (Xbox)
  • Forza Horizon 4 (Xbox, PC)
  • Forza Horizon 5 (Xbox, PC)
  • Gears of War 4 (Xbox)
  • Gears 5 (Xbox, PC)
  • Grid (Xbox, PC)
  • Grid Legends (Xbox)
  • Grounded (Xbox, PC)
  • Halo Infinite (Xbox, PC)
  • Immortals Fenyx Rising (Xbox, PC)
  • Inertial Drift (Xbox, PC)
  • Marvel's Guardians of the Galaxy (Xbox, PC)
  • Metro Exodus (Xbox, PC)
  • Microsoft Flight Simulator (Xbox, PC)
  • NFS Heat (Xbox, PC)
  • Ori and the Will of the Wisps (Xbox, PC)
  • Overwatch (for headphones, Xbox, PC)
  • A Plague Tale: Requiem (Xbox, PC)
  • Resident Evil 2 (Xbox, PC)
  • Resident Evil 3 (Xbox, PC)
  • Resident Evil 7: Biohazard (Xbox, PC)
  • Resident Evil Village (Xbox, PC)
  • Rise of the Tomb Raider (Xbox, X model only)
  • Shadow of the Tomb Raider (PC, Xbox)
  • Star Wars: Battlefront (PC)
  • Super Lucky's Tale (Xbox, PC)
  • Tiny Tina's Wonderlands (Xbox, PC)
  • Tom Clancy's The Division® 2 (Xbox, PC)



general surround sound supported games:

Elden ring fills my 7.1 speakers pretty nicely, and directionally - but it's prob not true atmos like an uncompressed hdmi uhd audio track.

If you don't have ceiling speakers for real atmos (I don't), a 7.1 layout still get lossless hdmi audio with dolby TrueHD or an atmos setting on a receiver. It just doesn't use the atmos object information. I doubt games in the general surround support list are uncompressed hdmi audio though but the list doesn't specify what each are.

*Note.. pcgamingwiki site can be flagged as unsafe due to the nature of the files contained on it. My bitdefender acts up on it. Broke the link here just as a reference, so use at your own risk

.pc gamingwiki. com/wiki/List_of_games_that_support_surround_sound
 
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Comixbooks said:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnpLJ9vV0eg
Click to expand...

I like this monitor because Dell has better stands then anyone else I still have 3 gaming lcds along with 3 work TN panels in my gaming room. So I'm trying not to buy every new monitor on the market I just don't have the space to store a few 27 inch Oleds. Plus I tossed the box away for my LG if I would like the Dell better for some reason. I do like OLED over LCD though it's the best thing to happen to my video game binges I racked up almost 100 hours on Wartales on my LG it's just so much easier to look at.
 
I just bought this monitor and it’s scheduled to arrive next week.

I’ll be using a monitor arm with a fairly long extension, and I suspect that the provided DisplayPort cable won’t be long enough.

So, question:

Which DisplayPort cable do I need for 360Hz at 1440p?
 
WinMan_x2000 said:
Let's talk about how these new bad boys have eARC. No more crazy exotic setups to get 5.1. Plug a damn sound bar in and enjoy.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, this is incorrect.

Only the AW3225QF supports Dolby pass-through via eARC.

Meaning Dolby soundbars (such as my Sonos Arc) won’t work with this display. (Unfortunately, I only discovered this just now, after ordering the monitor. My fault. I should have checked first.)
 
Hershy said:
Unfortunately, this is incorrect.

Only the AW3225QF supports Dolby pass-through via eARC.

Meaning Dolby soundbars (such as my Sonos Arc) won’t work with this display. (Unfortunately, I only discovered this just now, after ordering the monitor. My fault. I should have checked first.)
Click to expand...


I assume that when people say 5.1sound from a soundbar they are talking about a soundbar + satellites + a subwoofer? I noticed he said that they "Get 5.1", he didn't say they get 5.1 surround sound.

Like the "best soundbar setup" RTings considered atm: they said it was a samsung hw-q900c kit. They tested it like this, a setup which at least has satellites and a sub. The front Left and front Right channels in this picture are floor tower speakers even. Not what I'd expect from a typical soundbar setup. Additionally, the soundbar supposedly bounces some sound off of the ceiling to simulate "atmos" ceiling speakers I guess.

https://www.rtings.com/soundbar/reviews/samsung/hw-q990c

in-test-medium.jpg


. . . .

I don't know that Winman_x2000 should call it 5.1 if it's not an array of 5 speakers + a subwoofer. A bar alone isn't 5.1. 5.1 is mastered for directional output from 5 directions, plus .1 a sub channel.

976187_monitorplacement_subwooferplacement.jpg


The samsung hq-900c kit does include some satellite speakers and a sub apparently, at least in some kits you can buy. I'm assuming the two sattelites are rear channels for triangulating behind you.

71ADaLd7rNL._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_FMwebp_.jpg


hdmi eARC can do uncompressed hdmi audio which is good, if you send the sound from your tv via hdmi to the sound device, and both devices support eARC. Note that while bandwidth wise, hdmi 2.0b could transmit eARC, eARC was released as a feature of hdmi 2.1 so I'd double check that a hdmi 2.0b device specifically has the hardware for eARC rather than assuming it supports - e- ARC.

hdmi-earc.jpg



From the samsung hq-900c user reviews on amazon:

"A true Dolby Atmos system consists of Left Channel, Center Channel, Right Channel, Three Top Channels, Left Side Surround, Right Side Surround, and of course Left and Right Rear Channel Surrounds with a upper channel in addition to the standard channel location (front).
This system doesn't come anywhere close to those specifications. Like most Samsung sound bars, this unit is underpowered. While competitors are offering 420 watts. Samsung offers 340 watts.
The construction of the subwoofer was disappointing. Instead of making the edges of the particle board look smooth, it was rough to the touch. In short, it looked cheap. Some have commented on the lack of bass even when turned up to 6+. My suggestion is to place the subwoofer in a corner with the driver facing out, and the back port facing the corner.
The surround speakers to be matched to this sound bar, yet again incomplete. A true Dolby Atmos Rear Channel speaker consists of two drivers per speaker. The recommended surround speakers only have one midrange speaker.
The idea behind Dolby Atmos is height. This means placing a speaker above (usually on the ceiling) each floor standing speaker. I agree, that is a whole lot of speaker(s)
Personally, I haven't experienced a sound bar yet that can challenge a True Dolby Atmos Home Theater System. One problem is plastic enclosures, second would be poorly acoustically matched drivers (speakers), the size of the drivers themselves. The list goes on.
I would encourage the public to go to their local electronics store. Listen to the model that they have an interest in. If they like it, rush home and buy it on amazon. :)”

. . .

Sonos new upcoming soundbar kit in 2024 is wireless I think instead of hdmi, which to me sounds like compression loss, but I'd have to look into it. Also a smaller bar/center channel which isn't necessarily a good thing either.

A soundbar, or even a beefy sound loaf like a jbl boombox or tribit stormbox can sound better than built in tv speakers, but I wouldn't call things that aren't surround layouts 5.1 , 7.1, atmos.
 
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One of some of the guides you can find online for surround speaker setups under $2,500. Considering that soundbar I referenced was $1400, might be something to consider for a much better result if you are in a position to be considering dropping that kind of money on sound. Some people start out with a receiver and a left, right channel + a sub and build from there later.

https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/best-surround-sound-system/

Note that with eARC, you don't need some extra expensive surround receiver that can pass 4k 120hz through it. The receiver can just receive the eARC audio output from your screen over an hdmi cable, no video signal at all, the receiver acting as a DAC + AMP.

You can also use older receivers that don't have eARC capability if you buy an adapter module like a shARC device for example (there are a few other similar devices available but I'm not familiar with them). So you could use your old receiver or buy an older/used receiver and still get eARC sound. I do that on a 7.1 receiver. People upgrading receivers/sound systems often put their old receiver up for sale so some ok deals might be found.

. . .
Sharctop2.png

. . .

Some alternative eARC audio extractors to the shARC (which is out of stock):

https://www.amazon.com/OREI-Extractor-Extract-Passthrough-HDA-929/dp/B0CDNYH3WN/

  • Audio Extractor: Extract full HDMI audio from any HDMI source signal and pass-through 4K or HDR the video to a compatible display/TV and output HDMI Audio to AV Receiver with HDMI input.
  • Supports - DTS HD, Dolby TrueHD (via HDMI), Dolby Atmos Compatible, Supports CEC ( Use the TV RC to Adjust the Soundbar Volume and CEC Connecting device power on/off)




. . . .


I haven't looked into this smaller audio extractor for eARC from that same company, in detail yet but it's a lot cheaper than a shARC and at a glance provides similar functionality. A few people had some power issues with it but they might be using a usb port rather than wall power. ymmv.

https://www.amazon.com/192KHz-Converter-Extractor-Optical-Digital/dp/B0C4F87SRM/

[*]Upgrade amplifiers or soundbars that do not support eARC/ARC function to be able to connect with TVs that support eARC/ARC function, so that they can obtain high-definition audio through the TVs eARC/ARC channel.
[*]NOTE Please connect the HDMI port with the eARC/ARC mark and make sure the eARC/ARC function is enabled on your TV, otherwise it cannot be used.


[*]192KHz Sampling Rate: It practically supports 32, 44.1, 48, 96, and 192 KHz sampling rates, along with 24-bit SPDIF input bitstreams for left and right channels. The RCA and 3.5mm headphone port outputs can be controlled by the TV's remote control (CEC function).
[*]Multiple Audio Output Types: It supports PCM, AC3, DTS, DD+ DTS-HD Master Audio, and DOLBY True HD audio formats for speakers, amplifiers, active speakers, wired headphones, and other receiving devices, providing a diverse listening experience.
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edit: can't get rid of the qualifying purchases line for some reason, even in code mode it's not showing up for deletion.
 
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Comixbooks said:
I like this monitor because Dell has better stands then anyone else I still have 3 gaming lcds along with 3 work TN panels in my gaming room. So I'm trying not to buy every new monitor on the market I just don't have the space to store a few 27 inch Oleds. Plus I tossed the box away for my LG if I would like the Dell better for some reason. I do like OLED over LCD though it's the best thing to happen to my video game binges I racked up almost 100 hours on Wartales on my LG it's just so much easier to look at.
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Yea but you NEED this OLED NOW!
 
brennok said:
Rtings is live with their review for non-insiders.

https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/dell/alienware-aw3225qf

It is now their best gaming monitor.
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best/by-usage/gaming
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Hershy said:
That’s a different monitor.
Click to expand...

This thread we're in covers both I think

New Alienware 27" 1440p 360hz OLED and 32" 4k 240hz OLED monitors coming in January 2024​

https://hardforum.com/threads/new-a...n-january-2024.2031338/page-2#post-10458273061

OP / 1st post page 1:

927771_1698178424416.png


. . . . . .

The actual AW3225QF thread:

Alienware AW3225QF 32" 4K 240 Hz OLED​

https://hardforum.com/threads/alienware-aw3225qf-32-4k-240-hz-oled.2032779/page-4
 
Yeah I was just going off the OP talking about both monitors coming January. I even double checked the model number.
 
Sorry, brennok, it’s confusing. There are two threads for the 32 inch display, and one for the 27 inch that also includes the 32 inch. LOL
 
No worries. I think this one started before we knew all the details and then went off on a tangent then the one monitor got its own thread. Tough to keep track especially with the similar model numbers.
 
I ordered the AW27 last week.

My reasoning was this: I have a 4090 connected to my LG C9, which is a 4K Oled display, which I love.

But even a 4090 will sometimes struggle under the weight of 4K at max settings (especially when path tracing is involved). The drop to 1440p from 4K can translate to a jump of 20 frames, and the difference between 50 FPS and 70 FPS is massive.

I realize that my C9 can scale to 1440p, but I’d much rather go native… and with this monitor I’ll get to experience QD Oled for the first time, which is exciting.

I purchased a monitor arm, so the 27 inch Alienware will be positioned beside my C9, up in the air, to the side of my desk.

Also, something interesting happened this morning. I awoke to discover that my purchase from last week, which cost me CAD $1200, was $1000 this week - so I phoned Dell to see if they would refund me a whopping $200, and I got someone from India. He asked me to explain the problem, so I did, and then he put me on hold and came back five minutes later and asked me to explain the problem. I literally laughed out loud and said word for word what I said the first time. He then transferred me to someone else.

The next person asked me to explain my problem, so I happily explained it again… and again I was put on hold.

The monitor hasn’t even arrived yet, so while on hold I decided I would repurchase the monitor for $1000 and send the first one back.

The second guy came back on the line, asked me for my order number, put me on hold, then came back and said he refunded the money to my Visa. He even gave me a ticket number in case there was a problem.

He asked me if there was anything else he could help me with and I was tempted to say, yeah, can you come over to my house and help me pick my jaw up from the floor.
 
So all the big names in monitors are on the OLED band wagon? I for one don't care for OLED monitors from personal experience. I want to see improvements in mini led. Guess I'm in the minority.
 
elvn said:
I don't know that Winman_x2000 should call it 5.1 if it's not an array of 5 speakers + a subwoofer.
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My comments are not trying to reference speakers and their placement. Rather, the capabilities associated with the signal.
 
WinMan_x2000 said:
My comments are not trying to reference speakers and their placement. Rather, the capabilities associated with the signal.
Click to expand...
I didn’t realize that I don’t even need the eARC port on the Alienware 27.

My 4090 is connected to my LG C9, which is connected to my Sonos Arc, subwoofer, and Era 300s - this is how I get the sound for my gaming, from the eARC’s pass through ability.

When the new 27 inch display arrives, all I have to do is connect it to my 4090 via DisplayPort, because it will be acting as a second monitor alongside my C9.

I just have to leave the C9 on, and set the background to black (to avoid burn in), while playing games on the new monitor.

So, essentially, if you have a TV with eARC and a Dolby soundbar, you can add any second monitor and still get the Dolby sound.

Probably obvious to everyone here, but I had to work that one out. I’ve never run two displays before! LOL
 
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