New Samsung 4k for everyone.

Then seems like very similar to that AMD 3D video that I posted here that neede that tridef app too. Thanks for the feedback. Do you use it with 7500 or 9000?
 
Thanks for confirming... I'll be sure to post my impressions once I get it on Monday.

edit: Dan - do you switch to 4:2:2 game mode for FPS gaming and switch back to 4:4:4 for desktop use or? Just curious.

I generally switch to game mode for all gaming and back to PC mode for desktop use.
 
50" is too big for a monitor i suspect but thats such a good price....so tempted.
 
I think I plan take 48'' because I have heard people who have taken 40'' and have changed it for 48'' and are more happy with it than 40''. I use my screen 80-90cm distance so I think 48'' is good then? Also using it as TV is bigger size better.
Edit: Anyone know is curve on 48'' size bigger than on 40'' lets say if we compare JU7500 40'' and 48'' ?
 
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What would you recommend for flight sim ? DCS World, X-Plane, Prepar3d, Flight Simulator X
40 or 48 inches ?
Thank you
 
I'd go with the 48" but it is personal preference. Head down to the store and view each one from the distance you would at home and see which one you prefer.
 
Then seems like very similar to that AMD 3D video that I posted here that neede that tridef app too. Thanks for the feedback. Do you use it with 7500 or 9000?

I'm using it with a HU7500, which is comparable with a JU7000 (not curved).
 
50" is too big for a monitor i suspect but thats such a good price....so tempted.

50 is not too big if you can make some adjustments. I have a 55 JS9000 I have been using for last 6 months as my desktop monitor and it is awesome. I have it set back a little behind and below the desk (my eyes are 3 feet away from screen surface) and it is perfect.

The limiting factor with these large monitors is their height not their width. That is why you need to mount it as low as possible (preferably 1-3 inches below the desk level).
 
Thanks for posting the sale on the 50" Kabobi, I missed the sale but I think Info like that helps us looking to buy.
 
Hmm, good point Ziran. Now just waiting on another sale.

So disappointed that Samsung's pricing on the 6700 and 9000 models went back up (probably others as well, but I haven't been watching them).

It's the holidays Samsung and these sets are nearing the end of the year - do some blowout pricing!
 
Can anybody please tell me if there's a solution to this:

I just bought the UN40JU7100 a week ago, and I primarily use this as work monitor so I'm constantly AFK. Is there any way to put this monitor to sleep properly because when "set power off" goes off after 15 minutes, I get the annoying default Samsung no connection message which has made me just turn off the LCD altogether when I'm not using it.

But a bug sometimes occur when i reboot the LCD the screen the screen becomes green with the desktop blown up 600%, and the only fix is to reboot the LCD so it corrects itself, but even then it still won't fix itself.

Is this common with this Samsung? Is there a solution? I really love this LCD because as a work monitor, the colors and saturation have been extremely great to work on, but having to mess with my monitor daily routine doesn't seem appealing either. If anyone has some input on this, I'll appreciate any assistance here.

Ciao muchachos.
 
Agreed Vorpel :) A $900 48" JS9000 would be nice :)

I think JU7500 is little bit better because :
1: JS9000 have more input lag @ 4:4:4 60hz than JU7500 ( for me its problem because I'm too lazy for changing gaming mode every time I play and JS9000 input lag 55ms but JU7500 have 36ms.
2: JS9000 have edge lid backlight, but JU7500 have direct backlight
3: JS9000 one connection box is loud and badly designed.
 
Can anybody please tell me if there's a solution to this:

I just bought the UN40JU7100 a week ago, and I primarily use this as work monitor so I'm constantly AFK. Is there any way to put this monitor to sleep properly because when "set power off" goes off after 15 minutes, I get the annoying default Samsung no connection message which has made me just turn off the LCD altogether when I'm not using it.

But a bug sometimes occur when i reboot the LCD the screen the screen becomes green with the desktop blown up 600%, and the only fix is to reboot the LCD so it corrects itself, but even then it still won't fix itself.

Is this common with this Samsung? Is there a solution? I really love this LCD because as a work monitor, the colors and saturation have been extremely great to work on, but having to mess with my monitor daily routine doesn't seem appealing either. If anyone has some input on this, I'll appreciate any assistance here.

Ciao muchachos.

I have the same exact TV and do not have the problem you describe. I set mine to shut off if their is not signal after 30 minutes. If i've been away for awhile my TV is off, but all I have to do is turn it on and its back the way it was (usually at the lock screen).
 
I use these sets to play PS4 games and it's fantastic. No 4K monitor can match it at displaying 1080P.
 
UN48JS9000 is back up to $2,299.99. Holy fucking shit, SOOOO not worth it. $1600 was a decent deal. Guess I'm waiting to see what Samsung has to offer for 2016. :p
 
UN48JS9000 is back up to $2,299.99. Holy fucking shit, SOOOO not worth it. $1600 was a decent deal. Guess I'm waiting to see what Samsung has to offer for 2016. :p

Watch for the Christmas sales. If they lowered the price once for a sale there is a fair chance it will happen again.
 
I have the same exact TV and do not have the problem you describe. I set mine to shut off if their is not signal after 30 minutes. If i've been away for awhile my TV is off, but all I have to do is turn it on and its back the way it was (usually at the lock screen).

I'm going to try and recreate the symptoms so I can better explain what is going on. But I'm curious to know if there is a precedent here.
 
I think JU7500 is little bit better because :
1: JS9000 have more input lag @ 4:4:4 60hz than JU7500 ( for me its problem because I'm too lazy for changing gaming mode every time I play and JS9000 input lag 55ms but JU7500 have 36ms.
2: JS9000 have edge lid backlight, but JU7500 have direct backlight
3: JS9000 one connection box is loud and badly designed.

Not all JS9000 one connect boxes are loud. Mine is very warm but no noise.
 
Not all JS9000 one connect boxes are loud. Mine is very warm but no noise.

This, mine runs fairly hot though you can keep your hand on it, but you can only hear the fan if you hold it up close. Its running within spec considering I am pumping 4k|4:4:4@60 through it 6++ hours a day (primary PC & "TV") without issue and had my 9500 since april, same OC part #.

The 9k series has the better one connect version as it contains all the scalers/processors within so any upgrades are complete replacements of everything but the panel. The panel has very nice specs: HDR brightness, 10bit, 120hz and capable of very good picture quality just needs more bandwidth on the input side!
 
Zarathustra[H];1042008735 said:
It does.

Keep in mind - however - that these glasses are intended for use with movies at 24hz, and would likely not be satisfactory in games.

The reason being that while the panel is a 120hz panel, due to HDMI2.0 bandwidth restrictions, the highest possible usable refresh rate is 60hz. (tehcnically it should be possible to run 1080p at 120hz, but they have not enabled this for some reason).

Due to this, the highest possible 3D refresh rate you will get is 30hz, which I would imagine would be unsatisfactory to most.
http://www.mtbs3d.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=115&t=21153 This person with JU7500 got 4k 3D working with 60hz in games.
 
Follow up on my monitor display issue: In this picture below, you can see after I turn on the monitor while the computer is still on, I get this bug where everything is green the image is distorted. "turn off monitor" was disabled from the Samsung, while Windows was also had turn off display disabled. So far the only solution so far is to simply reboot Windows.

The reason why I have it on this setting before was because of the annoying message I'd get from Samsung after it goes idle activating Windows monitor off function. Is is possible the Samsung is defective in this case? Or do I have the settings completely wrong here? If so, what is the proper way to power down the monitor when it goes idle? Mind you, I would like to add I'm using a GTX 780 Ti, so I don't know if that is also playing a factor. I'm still waiting for the Club3d dp to hdmi adapter to come in later this month to address the bandwidth issue. Anyways, let me know what you guys think, thanks..

IIlZf4f.jpg
 
Zarathustra[H];1042021949 said:
But why buy a 4k set to use it at 1080p? :p

I can't speak for that user, but I have PC, Xbox One, and PS4 connected to it... So I get 4K on the PC, and really nice looking 1080P on the consoles.

Follow up on my monitor display issue: In this picture below, you can see after I turn on the monitor while the computer is still on, I get this bug where everything is green the image is distorted. "turn off monitor" was disabled from the Samsung, while Windows was also had turn off display disabled. So far the only solution so far is to simply reboot Windows.

The reason why I have it on this setting before was because of the annoying message I'd get from Samsung after it goes idle activating Windows monitor off function. Is is possible the Samsung is defective in this case? Or do I have the settings completely wrong here? If so, what is the proper way to power down the monitor when it goes idle? Mind you, I would like to add I'm using a GTX 780 Ti, so I don't know if that is also playing a factor. I'm still waiting for the Club3d dp to hdmi adapter to come in later this month to address the bandwidth issue. Anyways, let me know what you guys think, thanks..

I think it has been mentioned earlier that cards prior to the 900 series are not HDMI 2.0 capable, so that could play a role in it. Also, your Output Dynamic Range should be "Full", not "Limited", but I don't think that is contributing to your issue.
 
I think it has been mentioned earlier that cards prior to the 900 series are not HDMI 2.0 capable, so that could play a role in it. Also, your Output Dynamic Range should be "Full", not "Limited", but I don't think that is contributing to your issue.

The "Limited" is greyed out, because of the 780 of course, and I agree that might be what's giving me the problem, which if that's the case, I may have to reconsider a few things. Because even with the dp to hdmi adapter, I don't think that will fix the issue.
 
Ski, that discoloration I'd say is due to a faulty HDMI cable. As far as your sleep issues, I don't know. Mine does that as well on my LG and Samsung sets. I just turn off the tv now when I leave the station.
 
Ski, that discoloration I'd say is due to a faulty HDMI cable. As far as your sleep issues, I don't know. Mine does that as well on my LG and Samsung sets. I just turn off the tv now when I leave the station.

Hmmm, I haven't considered the HDMI cable as a culprit, what brand do you recommend I use? And to add, I'm using the Amazon Basic High Speed Cable 8'. The minimal research I've done indicated this cable was compatible, or am I wrong?

I'll try to test another one in the meantime, I have spares.
 
Ski, that discoloration I'd say is due to a faulty HDMI cable. As far as your sleep issues, I don't know. Mine does that as well on my LG and Samsung sets. I just turn off the tv now when I leave the station.

Hmmm, I haven't considered the HDMI cable as a culprit, what brand do you recommend I use? And to add, I'm using the Amazon Basic High Speed Cable 8'. The minimal research I've done indicated this cable was compatible, or am I wrong?

I'll try to test another one in the meantime, I have spares.

HDMI cable could be an issue, but the "discoloration" is probably the Output Dynamic Range being "Limited". Mine seems to switch back to "Limited" when I update drivers and has similar color issues.
 
@jedolley

I just discovered this post regarding a registry hack to enable full dynamic range. Before I even attempt this, because I'm going to do some research, has anyone had experience with their "output dynamic range" being greyed out before, and used this registry tweak or is this simply a hardware limitation from my GPU?

Also, for anyone wondering, Amazon has the Club3d DP to HDMI 2.0 60hz Adapter on their webpage, currently out of stock though.

EDIT: Found this older post from Cyph which addresses my greyed out question:

It's automatically set to full range so it's grayed out. It doesn't mean it's locked to limited. If you compare it with RGB full, they both look the same.
 
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So I took the plunge and went for 48" JU6700. However I'm noticing input delay, it's annoying the hell out of me.

I used to have a 1080p TV I bought in 2009 and used it until last year, input delay was not noticeable. But now it's horrible and awkward feeling trying to fight the cursor. My old TV had worse input delay than the JU6700 model. So I figured it would perform better, but guess not.

Is it because I'm currently running it at 24/30hz? Don't have video card with HDMI 2.0 yet. Or is it because it's 4K now, I had 3x 1080p before I upgraded and the input wasnt that bad. Or is the input delay increased due to using wireless keyboard/mouse? I use Microsoft Sculpt keyboard and Logitech G602 mouse.

Help me out here?
If there no fix for this issue, I will be returning it.
 
So I took the plunge and went for 48" JU6700. However I'm noticing input delay, it's annoying the hell out of me.

I used to have a 1080p TV I bought in 2009 and used it until last year, input delay was not noticeable. But now it's horrible and awkward feeling trying to fight the cursor. My old TV had worse input delay than the JU6700 model. So I figured it would perform better, but guess not.

Is it because I'm currently running it at 24/30hz? Don't have video card with HDMI 2.0 yet. Or is it because it's 4K now, I had 3x 1080p before I upgraded and the input wasnt that bad. Or is the input delay increased due to using wireless keyboard/mouse? I use Microsoft Sculpt keyboard and Logitech G602 mouse.

Help me out here?
If there no fix for this issue, I will be returning it.

Yes, 30Hz or less is horrible.
You can check it with another monitor by setting it to 30Hz yourself.
 
What Nenu said...it feels awful at 30Hz.

The lag is very acceptable at 4K, and especially so with Game mode enabled.
 
Wow, guess I never truly experienced 30hz before until now. Defiantly gotta upgrade the GPU stat! Thanks Nenu and imyourzero.
 
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