New TJ07 cooling project...could use your help/ideas

Teknokid said:
sorry. i dont know if anyone is still watching this thread. but hey, ill ask my questions anyway. whats temps are you getting with the cpu block/what clock is it at? those EK res's im looking to get one, what fittings do they come with?
thanks,
sweet build :)
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The EK reservoirs come with the set of brackets or clamps for each res. The res just snaps in and you can use the option clip to hold it in, but you definitely don't need it. Each bracket has a single bolt that goes directly through the center of the bracket and is used for mounting. In my case I opted to use L brackets, but you basically do whatever you want seeing as it's only 1 bolt and not 2 like other reservoirs often have. That makes mounting it on the side, back, or wherever quite easy.
 
BigRollTide said:
Also going to get the BIX460 since it fits! This was an awesome build and will be using a lot of it as a reference for building my first water cooled system. I do have a few of questions if you don't mind:

What are the blue things on the left side of your drive cage?

The blue boxes are for the cathode lighting. I used industry strength velcro cut to fit to hold them there.

What did you use to mount the hard drives on the right side?

Tiny little L brackets that I picked up at the local hardware store. They can't be more than .5" brackets. When the disk is mounted using these it's only about 5mm off of the drive cage so as not to get in the way of the side of the case. If you use larger brackets you'll have to cut them down and drill holes and I wanted to avoid that.

How's the airflow? Since you do not water cool the northbridge nor the memory, it seems like more airflow would be needed.

Airflow seems to be fine. Today's idle temps are 22.2 and current CPU temps are 31c, GPUs are 46/42. Motherboard is 29. It'll load around 37c CPU, 57/50 GPUs, and 36c MB.

What attachment for the dremel did you use to cut through the metal?

They have metal cutters. It's about 1.5" wide and looks like a piece of sandpaper. Not the metal saw attachment, just the metal cutting attachement. Does a pretty good job, but take out your components as it gets dusty when you do it. Ideally, get a can of compressed air to blow out the dust afterwards.

Do you think it is feasible to cut a hole through the glass to put a fan in so that air can come in from a lower point in the case, thus creating more air flow that will be exhausted out through the top fans? I was thinking about closing off the bottom of the case with something (any ideas???) and only having holes between the bottom and top part for the tubes/power cables.

Yes, you could do that, but make sure you have a steady hand so as not to ruin the nice sidepanel. I'm sure it certainly wouldn't hurt, but if it's heat you are looking to release I don't think you'd gain more than 1-2c.

I hope Silverstone sees what you have done and will consider making the same case, except a copule of inches wider and longer! Again, AWESOME design.
Click to expand...

LOL...I sent their R&D dept. an e-mail with pics. I specifically asked them to make the case more flexible for modding, particularly in the areas of the removing bays for space, among other things. Hopefully they'll consider it, but it's a longshot.

You can cram a lot of components in this case. Most use probably don't need a 480 and a 240 (including myself). If you use this case with a single 480, pump and res their is plenty of room to fit everything.

Hope this helps.
 
What are the blue things on the left side of your drive cage?

The blue boxes are for the cathode lighting. I used industrial strength velcro cut to fit to hold them there.

What did you use to mount the hard drives on the right side?

Tiny little L brackets that I picked up at the local hardware store. They can't be more than .5" brackets. When the disk is mounted using these it's only about 5mm off of the drive cage so as not to get in the way of the side of the case. If you use larger brackets you'll have to cut them down and drill holes and I wanted to avoid that.

How's the airflow? Since you do not water cool the northbridge nor the memory, it seems like more airflow would be needed.

Airflow seems to be fine. Today's idle temps are 22.2 and current CPU temps are 31c, GPUs are 46/42. Motherboard is 29. It'll load around 37c CPU, 57/50 GPUs, and 36c MB.

What attachment for the dremel did you use to cut through the metal?

They have metal cutters. It's about 1.5" wide and looks like a piece of sandpaper. Not the metal saw attachment, just the metal cutting attachement. Does a pretty good job, but take out your components as it gets dusty when you do it. Ideally, get a can of compressed air to blow out the dust afterwards.

Do you think it is feasible to cut a hole through the glass to put a fan in so that air can come in from a lower point in the case, thus creating more air flow that will be exhausted out through the top fans? I was thinking about closing off the bottom of the case with something (any ideas???) and only having holes between the bottom and top part for the tubes/power cables.

Yes, you could do that, but make sure you have a steady hand so as not to ruin the nice sidepanel. I'm sure it certainly wouldn't hurt, but if it's heat you are looking to release I don't think you'd gain more than 1-2c.

I hope Silverstone sees what you have done and will consider making the same case, except a copule of inches wider and longer! Again, AWESOME design.

I sent their R&D dept. an e-mail with pics. I specifically asked them to make the case more flexible for modding, particularly in the areas of the removing bays for space, among other things. Hopefully they'll consider it, but it's a longshot.

You can cram a lot of components in this case. Most users probably don't need a 480 and a 240 (including myself). If you use this case with a single 480, pump and res their is plenty of room to fit everything. I went a bit overboard, but it was more for the fun of it, although cooling the CPU on it's own rad certainly doesn't hurt. TJ07 and the Lian Li v2000b II Plus are probably the two best cases for watercooling, unless you go to something like a Mountainmods case, which is significantly larger. I prefer the look of the TJ07, which is why I elected to go with it at the end of the day.

Hope this helps.
 
BigRollTide said:
What exactly did you put in the coolant lines? Ratios of each? Again, I'm new to water cooling.

Have you seen this?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=311&products_id=4142
Click to expand...

In this build I used Zalman G200 mixed with distilled. Ratio is on the bottle, can't remember exactly. The green loop is Thermaltake fluid with coloring, also mixed with distilled. I've tried G11 with distilled as well, but at the end of the day the temps are the same pretty much.
 
On a reservoir system, how do people usually bleed the system out? I was thinking about a Y-connector before it reenters the pump from the rad. One Y goes, of course, back into the pump and the other goes to a tube with a drain/fill port on the end of it. Oh, and should this be a T or a Y? It seems a Y would keep water flow going better.
 
BigRollTide said:
On a reservoir system, how do people usually bleed the system out? I was thinking about a Y-connector before it reenters the pump from the rad. One Y goes, of course, back into the pump and the other goes to a tube with a drain/fill port on the end of it. Oh, and should this be a T or a Y? It seems a Y would keep water flow going better.
Click to expand...

It's easy with a res, especially with a larger res like an EK150 or higher. Simple fill it up until the fluid hits the pump and turn the pump on to suck the fluid out of the res. Do it a few times more and that will pretty well fill the loop. Then tip the case around a bit to get the air bubbles out of the radiator and other areas of the loops. Very quick with a res - using a T-line will take longer.

Don't know about Y fittings, never used them before. If you can install a res I wouldn't bother with a T-line. More headaches as you have to put in a fillport, etc. Most systems can easily handle one res. I'd recommend an EK res as they are built well and very flexible when mounting. They come in all sizes.
 
I guess bleed means to get the air bubbles out...I meant DRAIN. I have read enough to know how to fill the lines from the reservoir. What is your plan on how you are going to emtpy your system out when you have to do it?
 
BigRollTide said:
I guess bleed means to get the air bubbles out...I meant DRAIN. I have read enough to know how to fill the lines from the reservoir. What is your plan on how you are going to emtpy your system out when you have to do it?
Click to expand...

Not planning on doing that for a while. If you create a build with one res/rad it's quite easy to do, but in the case of this build not so easy. I'll probably just snip the tubing and retube. Although that's not the ideal approach it does work.
 
Hi. Beautiful and impressive job. What are the dimensions of your PSU? I couldn't find them posted on OCZ's website. My dilemma is that I'm using a PC P&C 1KW, and I think it's too deep to allow for a second radiator at the bottom of the case.
 
mezzro said:
Hi. Beautiful and impressive job. What are the dimensions of your PSU? I couldn't find them posted on OCZ's website. My dilemma is that I'm using a PC P&C 1KW, and I think it's too deep to allow for a second radiator at the bottom of the case.
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I'll have to measure it. Off the top of my head it's rough 1.5" shorter than the Silverstone 850 Strider. Same height and width. It's about the same size as those older 400w power supplies....can't believe how small it is for a 1000w.

Fan is a bit loud though - my Strider was quiet, but it's got a monster heat sink in it.
 
After emailing OCZ with the question, they realized the oversight and posted the dimensions on their website. Thanks for the fast response, though.

I'm thinking of doing a similar build for a Striker Exreme/QX6700. I'm waiting for release of the DangerDen Maze5 for the quad core.
 
mezzro said:
After emailing OCZ with the question, they realized the oversight and posted the dimensions on their website. Thanks for the fast response, though.

I'm thinking of doing a similar build for a Striker Exreme/QX6700. I'm waiting for release of the DangerDen Maze5 for the quad core.
Click to expand...

Sounds good. Let me know if you have any questions. Can you give you some insight on where I ran into problems, save you $ on buying parts you don't need. heh
 
Masa, where do you find the EK res for sale online? I checked Petra and Performance PC -- both sold out. Where did you buy yours? Thanks
 
mezzro said:
Masa, where do you find the EK res for sale online? I checked Petra and Performance PC -- both sold out. Where did you buy yours? Thanks
Click to expand...

Petras. Worth the wait if you can. I imagine Petra is ordering more.
 
Next time you need to drain the system, put in a drainage spigot near the rad. It should make life much easier next time. But, it is one more possible point of failure- albeit at the bottom of the system.
 
How much easier might it have been with a PA120.3 and PA120.2 instead or is the PA too deep?
 
Here's some pics of the new Evercools I installed all lit up. They look kind of sexy with the lights out and add some color to the interior. They do a damn good job of cooling NB and SB too,

7.jpg

9.jpg

12.jpg

13.jpg
 
Darks0ulz said:
Just a quick question, for your rads and 90 degree fittings, you used these right? http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=259&cat=34&page=1

Well how did you connect them to the rads? Is there a such thing as a G1/4 male-male thing?:confused: Or would I find something like fittings for G1/4 - 1/2ID 90 degree fittings as someplace like homedepot?
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I did, but I'd recommend you use the PVC fittings from performance-pcs.com. They are a solid 90 fitting so you don't need to mess around with barbs and connectors. Much less hassle.

If you go with the danger dens you'll need to pick up a 1/2" brass connector as the go between for the fitting and the rad. Home Depot. Get some teflon tape too and wrap it about 4 times around your fittings. Keeps them airtight.
 
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