New water cooling system...I think temps are too high

T

thabub

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 5, 2004
Messages
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I just finished putting together a new watercooled pc which consists of an abit nf7-s v.2, unlocked(week 6) athlon xp 2500+, dtek spiral block, c-systems(dtek) csp 750 pump, dtek pro120 radiator with evercool 120mm aluminum fan, and a dangerden round reservoir. I am using zerez super coolant mixed 1:20 ratio and everything is running fine so far at 2.2ghz @1.675 volts. I am idling at 38-40*C according to bios, nvidia sys util, and sandra, and sandra cpu burn in maxxed out at 47* C load. This isn't very much better than my thermalright sk-7 with smart fan 2 set up i just got rid of . This is with the case closed and I am using AS ceramique on the cpu. Just wondering what you guys thought about this. These temps are also about the same as when it was running at 1.83(stock) ghz and stock voltage. What could be wrong? :(
 
As always, the Abit boards tend to read temps a little high, so you may not get as low as a similar setup on another board. Also, what are your ambient room temps?
 
My room is about 72-76*F now. I got it stable at 2.3ghz @ 1.80 volts but it takes 2.0 volts to make it to 2.4 ghz and the temps jumped to 51*C load, 45*C idle. I found it awkward that the temps actually lowered a bit when i went to [email protected] from [email protected]. The load temps went from 47*C to 45.5*C. Still seems a bit high though. Oh well,I'll try to tweak it later..
 
Only 1 120mm fan on the rad? Do you have a shroud in between the fan and the rad? If not add one and if you arent using 2 120mm fans in a push pull config consider doing that as well.
 
yeah pick up a compunurse or if your case has it's own thermal probes, use those..

If your rad is intake, make sure you have a emans to exhaust all that hot air, or you will have a little metallic box fullof hot air...which will only make temps worse. If the rad is exhaust, then make sure you have a decent shroud on touyr rad, and if that does not work, sandiwch the rad between 2 identical fans, make sure to shroud both.

Also be on the lookout of any kinks in your loop, some may not be very obvious as kinks...but anytime a tube flattens significantly, treat it as a kink.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I have a dtek shroud between the rad and fan, and yes it is an intake fan, but my board temps are good(28-33*C) so i think it is ok. I tried reseating the waterblock but the temps remain the same :confused: . I can't feel a whole lot of air coming through the radiator, but i just figured it was because of the low pressure that 120's flow. If i put another fan on the front of the rad in a push pull config do i need a shroud for that also? Thanks.
 
thabub said:
Thanks for all the input guys. I have a dtek shroud between the rad and fan, and yes it is an intake fan, but my board temps are good(28-33*C) so i think it is ok. I tried reseating the waterblock but the temps remain the same :confused: . I can't feel a whole lot of air coming through the radiator, but i just figured it was because of the low pressure that 120's flow. If i put another fan on the front of the rad in a push pull config do i need a shroud for that also? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Yeah, you should have a shroud for both. And adding another 120 should help out, provided your pump is moving the water at a good rate through the rad.
 
since your rad is your case intake, make sure you also add proper exhuast, at least matching 75% of the unrestricted CFM of one of those 120mmm fans. Getting rid of the hot air from your rad is crucial in a rad-intake setup. If you can fit a 120mm variable RPM fan (enermax knob regulated are great for this), then do so...the gain from ahving a fan to get rid of the hot air brought in by the intake rad is quite significant.
 
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