Painting a Case for Mom.

[Thanatos.]

So im getting ready to setup a computer for my mom (still running a P3 900Mhz) and old AMD Athlon XP 2800 setup (got it for free from a friend) and the case has seen better days its a silver/grey setup and i wanted to paint it black (possibly white but that might show too much). Ive got some Vinyl Dye for the front face and have the case disassembled but heres where i hit a slight snag ive read alot on painting today (like Arcygenicals awesome guide) and most go into way too much work for a somewhat antiquated computer for my mom. Im not going to clear coat it and i dont care if its flat black or glossy i just want the case to be black (outside only no inside painting) and not chip so can i just do some light sanding and put a thick coat of black primer on the sucker and call it good? If so do i need this Self Etching primer or some other type? What would the disadvantages be for using just primer? Also can i vinyl dye the acrylic window (mom doesn't need a window)? You input would be greatly appreciated as i hope to finish this project by the weekend.

 

[Michael Daly]

Self-etching is for bare metal.

If you sand the existing paint finish well, you won't need a primer at all. Do not put on a thick coat! Put on many thin coats to build it up if you feel the need. A thick coat might run and will not finish nicely. Do a light sanding with fine sandpaper between coats and you should get a nice overall finish.

I don't know what the dye will do to the acrylic. If you have the right paint, you can paint over it. The paint you use for the case might do depending on the solvents in it. You can test it on an inconspicuous place (like a corner of the window )inside the case). If it does not work, you'll have to find a paint that is made for acrylic - Krylon makes a paint for plastics; Fusion IIRC).

 

[Arcygenical]

Hmm, yes, just give the current paint a light sanding (say, 220g)... Not enough that you see any metal, but enough that it's dull and scratched, and then paint right over it.

Use a rust paint, like tremclad... And follow the instructions in my guide. Many light coats, start left, sweep over the piece, and end on the right, etc.

For this sort of thing, I'm going to say you'll need around 5-7 light coats. 20m apart.

 

[Thanatos.]

Hmm, yes, just give the current paint a light sanding (say, 220g)... Not enough that you see any metal, but enough that it's dull and scratched, and then paint right over it.

Use a rust paint, like tremclad... And follow the instructions in my guide. Many light coats, start left, sweep over the piece, and end on the right, etc.

For this sort of thing, I'm going to say you'll need around 5-7 light coats. 20m apart.

Sweet! Thanks ill grab that stuff the next few days.

 

[ZoSo]

If you have any plastic to paint I recommend Krylon Fusion over Valspar Plastic Paint.
The Krylon adheres better covers better and sprays much better too.

As far as sanding the metal parts, the coursest I would use is 320, anything lower and you'll tend to see sanding marks in the finish. Of course prime any bare metal, sand smooth when dry and hit it with your top coat.

 

[Thanatos.]

I cant find any tremclad up where im at any other paint suggestions and ZoSo i have Vinyl Dye for the plastic, it actually dyes the plastic the color i chose instead of relying on adhesion.

 

[Arcygenical]

I cant find any tremclad up where im at any other paint suggestions and ZoSo i have Vinyl Dye for the plastic, it actually dyes the plastic the color i chose instead of relying on adhesion.

Rustoleum or any rust paint will do.

 

[zerocount]

If you can find it, any Krylon Fusion paint would likely work out better for the plastic bezel than vinyl dye: you'll get a nicer finish in terms of consistency and coverage. The Fusion brand can be applied to metal or platic (but it has been designed for plastic).

I haven't tried Tremclad on bare plastic, but I have used it on top of a plastic primer, and that worked well.

 

[ZoSo]

Fusion can be used on Wood, Metal, Wicker, Wrought Iron, Plastic, Hard Vinyl, Glass, Plaster, Ceramic, Paper, Paper Mache. That's from there website. Also if your looking for a gloss finish, you won't get it with a dye.
Using rust preventative paints is a little overkill for a PC case, unless you have some extremely high humidity problem where the PC is going to be. Any good enamel or acrylic enamel will work fine. I have an old steel case sitting in my basement, been there for 15 years and not one spot of rust on it.
I don't use etching primer either.
Bottom line, for a good paint job prep work is the key, period! Doesn't matter what kind of paint you use if it's not prepped right.
If it's bare metal, ( I do the same to previously painted parts too) sand it with 320 and make sure it's clean before you prime, wipe it down with naphtha, hit it with your primer, 2 to 4 moderate coats, let it dry for the recommended time, then lightly sand it with 400 to smooth it out and get any high spots, sags, etc. if any.
Again make sure it's clean before hitting it with your top coat, wipe it with naphtha, then hit it with a tac-rag, lay your top coats on.
Something I always do to, is let the paint cure 100% before you start working on putting it back together, you need to beat the temptation of doing it before it's cured
I have a front bezel sitting here for 8 days now and I'll let it go a couple more, but I'm going to wet sand it and buff it to a mirror finish.